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Old 09-01-2007, 09:30 AM   #1576
Ed@Ford
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Buel light prices

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffus
Update on the Buell light
It makes a huge difference between the factory 35 watt light & 55 watt on the Buell, I'm quite happy with the modification & the price wasn't too bad, not as good as what I hear you guys in the States get, but not bad at all

Now I have a question for those in the know,,,,, Is the 07 rear rack under support the same as the 06??? For some reason the 07's are in stock, the 06's are on back order
I would have figured they'd be the same with identical part #'s

TIA
Just got back from the Buell store (Detroit MI). M0645.1ADA, M1600.1ACMW & Y0421.1ADA came to $211.47. The headlight assembly (Y0421.1ADA) was $116. That's a long way form some of the prices quoted on this thread. A little price gouging maybe?
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Old 09-01-2007, 09:41 AM   #1577
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Maybe they been reading these threads & figured out it is popular & will sell for double $$$.

It is a good headlight option, uses mainstream bulbs, & being a factory DOT street legal light is a plus. But I would have been happier to get it at the ealier quoted price. Would have bought the mount & shield at the same time if I could have got it at the old price. But like I said, I plan on making my own RallyRaid style of shield this winter, mounted to the frame
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Old 09-01-2007, 10:19 AM   #1578
Ed@Ford
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Go here: http://cjquinn.com/bandit/bandit.htm and see how the headlight is suspended by two upper ears, and how a slotted bit under the bottom center does the adjusting. Not massively difficult to support. Supporting the shield is probably more difficult, and is lower priority. Being H7 bulbs is great...they are available almost everywhere, and for those who need BRIGHT lights, Hella, and PIAA are more than happy to sell super bright bulbs. ALSO there are kits to drop $$ but very cool HID right in place of H7 for those that need it. For those that want to save watts for accessories, there are 35W H7, and with proper wiring one can have both of them on on high. It's a setup that gives lotsa options, and looks decent. I haven't given up on this yet, but I'll get the 45W halogen bulb for the stocker from the moped place in the interim.
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Old 09-01-2007, 10:43 AM   #1579
irnbru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford
Just got back from the Buell store (Detroit MI). M0645.1ADA, M1600.1ACMW & Y0421.1ADA came to $211.47. The headlight assembly (Y0421.1ADA) was $116. That's a long way form some of the prices quoted on this thread. A little price gouging maybe?
Wow Ed. I was quoted $109.99CAD for the headlight assy from my Canuckian dealer and like all m/c dealers they still use the pre-Bush exchange rate of $5bajillion CAD to $1USD
Try calling a Harley/Buell dealer instead of a Buell retail store, I'm sure you can do better than that.
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Old 09-01-2007, 11:12 AM   #1580
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Harley (Buell) Store last evening around B'more:

Y0421.1ADA = $120

Same with Lancaster, PA Harley store.
Accessory prices have gone up all around, though this is some of the biggest increases.

Thanks for all the fish!
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:47 AM   #1581
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I just had to adjust my chain for the 1st time today, noticed that the adjuster is near the end of it's travel before I even touched it.





Any ideas? Is this typical?
I can't find any information on the chain length, #of links anywhere online.
Sprockets are stock 15/45 and I think I have 114 links.
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:05 AM   #1582
motometal
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I thought I saw in the book that 112 was standard. In any case, there is plenty of room if you want to remove a link. The axle would end up forwards exactly the distance between two pins, with is about .625".

This is an oring chain and after initial adjustment, it isn't going to move much...so if you don't remove a link it isn't like you'll be running out of adjustment room soon.

removing a link would give you about .625" shorter wheelbase...
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:31 AM   #1583
Ditch
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Chain adjustment

I dropped my front sprocket 1 tooth and took a link out of the chain since it was way out there. I don't like stretching the adjusting bolts out to far.
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:35 AM   #1584
motometal
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Mods so far:
Leo Vince slip on with quiet tip and no screen
Removed “lego” extensions from rear signals, reattached signals with shorter bolts
Removed chain guard
Removed rubber peg inserts
Removed lic. Plate bracket, bolted lic plate directly to flap under tail light
All wiring connections in taillight disconnected, coated with dielectric grease and reconnected
CR8IEX plug .026” gap
Barnett clutch cable-nice cable, wish it was stock length
Shortened the aluminum guide for the front of the seat, reducing gap between tank and front of seat. Used a big drill bit for this, then faced it off with a grinder.
1” aluminum spacer for left side panel cut in half, shorter bolt
1.125” hole in airbox directly opposing backfire screen
slid forks up in clamps, top of tube 7/16” above clamps
all compression adjusters full soft, front and rear
sag set about as loose as I can get it-I think I need a softer spring-3.375” sag
right rear pass.peg bracket rubbing on swingarm, needs bent outwards

jetting:
stock=hesitation every time i’d crack the throttle.
Installed JD jet kit per instructions only with a 180 main. Better, but flat in the midrange and I’m 2.75 out on the fuel screw with the 42. LV slip on didn’t seem to change jetting a huge amt, nor did the airbox hole. 185 main now and a 45 pilot jet, puts me at 1.25 out. Still flat in midrange in higher gears. AC pump has JD leak jet, thin oring and 2.75mm adjustment. Using red needle (haven’t tried blue at all), started with five, went to six, felt better in midrange in higher gears, went to red 4, didn’t run bad but was noticeable flatter in the midrange. One clip notch doesn’t do much on the JD needle (that’s a good thing for fine tuning). Back to red6, runs good enough for now, some day will play with blue needle starting with #4 position.
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Old 09-03-2007, 11:02 AM   #1585
Ed@Ford
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MOTOMETAL:

I understand all of your mods except this one:

1” aluminum spacer for left side panel cut in half, shorter bolt

Ed
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Old 09-03-2007, 11:13 AM   #1586
irnbru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motometal
I thought I saw in the book that 112 was standard. In any case, there is plenty of room if you want to remove a link. The axle would end up forwards exactly the distance between two pins, with is about .625".

This is an oring chain and after initial adjustment, it isn't going to move much...so if you don't remove a link it isn't like you'll be running out of adjustment room soon.

removing a link would give you about .625" shorter wheelbase...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ditch
I dropped my front sprocket 1 tooth and took a link out of the chain since it was way out there. I don't like stretching the adjusting bolts out to far.
Thanks for the replies guys. I was going to go down 1 on the front too.
Guess I'll just pull a link.

Cheers
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Old 09-03-2007, 12:44 PM   #1587
Ed@Ford
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Rear shock damping settings

The "slow damping screw" has about 26 clicks to it. The "Fast Damping" knob (the grey "knob" wrapped around the slow damping screw doesn't seem to want to move. Do I need some of super wide screwdriver with a gap in the middle to move it? Then what is a good setting?
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Old 09-03-2007, 02:59 PM   #1588
BigAls
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damping screws and knobs

Wrap a rag around the big gray knob and give it a twist with pliers counterclockwise. it will free up and be easier to adjust next time. Set it all the way soft, same with the screw.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford
The "slow damping screw" has about 26 clicks to it. The "Fast Damping" knob (the grey "knob" wrapped around the slow damping screw doesn't seem to want to move. Do I need some of super wide screwdriver with a gap in the middle to move it? Then what is a good setting?
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Old 09-03-2007, 03:03 PM   #1589
motometal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford
The "slow damping screw" has about 26 clicks to it. The "Fast Damping" knob (the grey "knob" wrapped around the slow damping screw doesn't seem to want to move. Do I need some of super wide screwdriver with a gap in the middle to move it? Then what is a good setting?
I know where you are coming from. Mine was the same way. Chances are good that presently it's all the way out (counterclockwise). You should be able to turn it, by hand clockwise. Even when mine started turning, it was pretty stiff. The inner screw turns with it.

Some of the clickers on this bike have quite a range. Generally, unless the threads on the adjuster are super fine or there is an extraordinary amt of hydraulic flow, as you approach the end of the range "out" (counterclockwise) it isn't doing much. Usually it's just a needle in a seat. The first few clicks do much more, from fully closed (clockwise). I think my bike could stand to have a shim or two added to the HSCD both front and back, haven't researched it yet...and am not familiar with Marzocci forks. I may be able to do the forks myself, not the shock though. Also, it isn't broken in yet so it will probably become somewhat more plush.
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Old 09-03-2007, 03:06 PM   #1590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irnbru
Thanks for the replies guys. I was going to go down 1 on the front too.
Guess I'll just pull a link.

Cheers
you guys must be doing some really tight woods...with stock gearing my bike will really creep in 1st gear, about 7 mph with the clutch out. Or maybe you just want the gears closer together for off road?
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