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Old 02-04-2012, 08:37 AM   #22591
LRPct
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Nw Ct.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobnoxious67 View Post
Anybody remember the name/contact info for the guy making new clutch spring end buttons?
Bob.. Indy somethin or other is his SN. Indyunlimited maybe.Im sure someone will chime in and correct me... And Dom, do you EVER stop bitchin....? Jeezus h...
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Old 02-04-2012, 09:11 AM   #22592
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Originally Posted by lrpct View Post
bob.. Indy somethin or other is his sn. Indyunlimited and dom, do you ever stop bitchin....? Jeezus h...
+1
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:02 AM   #22593
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Thanks guys. Indy Unlimited...found him
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:27 AM   #22594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
I'm planning on sheet steel overlays to prevent the shifter and brake lever busting the covers, and getting a good skid plate with some wraparound. Figured that oughta be good 'nuff.
I've wondered about this, my shifter keeps rubbing on the case despite moving it a couple of times, it still works it's way back, I don't think it would take much to push it through the case, but I haven't found any case guards for either side. Does anyone make them or do I need to make my own?
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:02 AM   #22595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Next time, instead of just tightening the bolt, remove it and take the shifter all the way off. The stock grade 8.8 crap bolt will probably have round instead of pointed threads. Floatation test it to determine if it can be reused. (Throw it into the nearest large body of water, and if it floats, use it.) Chase the threads in the shifter with a quality plug tap, starting from the side opposite where the bolt enters, so the tap registers on the good threads before getting to the questionable ones. Some people like to squeeze the shift lever in a vise while it's off to close it up and make it a naturally tighter fit on the shaft splines so there's less work for the bolt to do. Clean oil, grease and dirt from the splines in the shift lever and on the shaft really well. Then use a new, grade 12.9 or ARP flange-head bolt, with Loctite. Torque it properly. Helps to have a long, box-end wrench with a little bend to it, and go in from the bottom, not the side. Should be good to go with no more shift lever creep.

I haven't seen any steel case guard plates, just as I haven't seen any gussets for the chain roller mounts, battery tray, subframe and fender brace. I'll be making my own.
And if that doesnt work, George/Uptite makes a sleeve that goes on and takes all that slop out. Very nice
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Old 02-05-2012, 07:45 AM   #22596
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Location: Parker, CO
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Yeah Bob,

I still make the Husky clutch cup springs for modern TE610s and TE630s
Anyone who is interested please PM me for details. It is cheaper than replacing stock parts that will fail again within 10,000 miles. Here is a picture of the failed cups and my heat treated thicker tool steel cups to be used with the old springs. All you need to order is 3 rivets to reattach the gear to the clutch basket.

Just got another batch of 100 kits ready for worldwide shipment!





I got over 30,000 miles on my Husky! Still running strong!


Quote:
Originally Posted by bobnoxious67 View Post
Anybody remember the name/contact info for the guy making new clutch spring end buttons?
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:31 AM   #22597
Aey dubya
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Boulder CO
Oddometer: 355
Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Rash View Post
I've wondered about this, my shifter keeps rubbing on the case despite moving it a couple of times, it still works it's way back, I don't think it would take much to push it through the case, but I haven't found any case guards for either side. Does anyone make them or do I need to make my own?
I cut my shift lever below the kink and slide the ends into a small peace of pipe, welded it around extending the lever about 3/4 to 1 inch. 3yrs of riding and it has never contacted the the case since unless it was laying on its side. Also makes it easier to fit a riding boot under. Though you will miss second gear alot the first week after the mod.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:46 AM   #22598
Flashman1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Next time, instead of just tightening the bolt, remove it and take the shifter all the way off. The stock grade 8.8 crap bolt will probably have round instead of pointed threads. Floatation test it to determine if it can be reused. (Throw it into the nearest large body of water, and if it floats, use it.) Chase the threads in the shifter with a quality plug tap, starting from the side opposite where the bolt enters, so the tap registers on the good threads before getting to the questionable ones. Some people like to squeeze the shift lever in a vise while it's off to close it up and make it a naturally tighter fit on the shaft splines so there's less work for the bolt to do. Clean oil, grease and dirt from the splines in the shift lever and on the shaft really well. Then use a new, grade 12.9 or ARP flange-head bolt, with Loctite. Torque it properly. Helps to have a long, box-end wrench with a little bend to it, and go in from the bottom, not the side. Should be good to go with no more shift lever creep.

I haven't seen any steel case guard plates, just as I haven't seen any gussets for the chain roller mounts, battery tray, subframe and fender brace. I'll be making my own.
\
I took mine off - put it in a vise and bent it out so it has plenty of clearence now.
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:59 PM   #22599
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Is there really no aftermarket gear lever out there that will work? I recall someone modding a Hammerhead shifter - anyone know which model is close?
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:47 PM   #22600
stujamur
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Location: Brisbane north side
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobnoxious67 View Post
Oh...the irony
So I presume xymotic sold his te ??

Xymotic big ups to you man for still chiming in and share your knowledge .

When you look back on this thread you are a massive and great contribution to the 610 guys n girls ( if there is any ) .

Without all your "experiences" been shared we would be far less off.

Good on you - I hope you get back onto a sweet ride again soon .
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:50 PM   #22601
stujamur
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Location: Brisbane north side
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04asphalt View Post
in the same boat, allballs bearings in the barn ready to install. ordered from a cafe sponsor but you can shop if tight on cash
Yet to order the bearings and do the job - read of tricks for removing races - lets hope they are not to hard as I don't have allot of the tools required to help remove them ( welders / presses / cutter etc) if they don't come out with a long punch I may have to pay a mechanic ???
Or buy some more tools ?

Let me know how you go
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:45 PM   #22602
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Broken bolt... Fuuuu

I broke one of the bolts for the oil filter cover- maybe 1/3 of an inch, so there is still maybe 1/2 inch stuck.
Any suggestions how to get this thing out, since it's such a precarious place?
I tried a 1/16 drill bit, which snapped in one second, then I tried one a little larger but I can't get it to seat right in the center, and this is not a place I want to chance hitting the threads.

Edit: I've chilled-out, and searched the web a bit. So, I'm gonna try a left-handed bit, I guess. (Plus, a center-punch, oil, slow-speed drilling, and luck.)
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:15 PM   #22603
JustRon
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Oddometer: 1,066
DRC Edge Tail light

Even though this was made for a DRZ, it fits pretty well on the TE610. Here's a couple pics, in case anyone was considering this to clean-up the rear...


From junk


From junk
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:09 PM   #22604
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broadwayron View Post
I broke one of the bolts for the oil filter cover- maybe 1/3 of an inch, so there is still maybe 1/2 inch stuck.
Any suggestions how to get this thing out, since it's such a precarious place?
I tried a 1/16 drill bit, which snapped in one second, then I tried one a little larger but I can't get it to seat right in the center, and this is not a place I want to chance hitting the threads.
Try an easy out.


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Old 02-05-2012, 08:51 PM   #22605
BiG DoM
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Location: South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broadwayron View Post
I broke one of the bolts for the oil filter cover- maybe 1/3 of an inch, so there is still maybe 1/2 inch stuck.
Any suggestions how to get this thing out, since it's such a precarious place?
I tried a 1/16 drill bit, which snapped in one second, then I tried one a little larger but I can't get it to seat right in the center, and this is not a place I want to chance hitting the threads.

Edit: I've chilled-out, and searched the web a bit. So, I'm gonna try a left-handed bit, I guess. (Plus, a center-punch, oil, slow-speed drilling, and luck.)
Easy Out or similar?
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People are more violently opposed to fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than motorcyclists.
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