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Old 03-09-2012, 05:20 AM   #23041
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcuvator View Post
The bearings may be too small for a single cam or they could be failing because the chain is too tight. Before I went to a manual adjuster I discovered the auto unit had overtightened itself on two occasions.

Chicken or the egg thing here maybe? Valve spring pressure will put more pressure on the cam bearings than the tensioner ever could. How about this? Worn cam bearings could be causing the cam chain to run loose and flap into the reed valve like some of us have seen. I dunno?
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:42 AM   #23042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnr View Post
Out of curiousity, how would one know know the CCT had overtightened itself? I just picked up a low mile 08 and was thinking of checking the number of clicks.
Originally Posted by Xcuvator
The bearings may be too small for a single cam or they could be failing because the chain is too tight. Before I went to a manual adjuster I discovered the auto unit had overtightened itself on two occasions.


The cam chain tensioner is a HUGE debate issue for the 610, akin to oil type.
Looking at the tensioner it seems impossible that it could overtighten.
It is far more likly that the tensioner was installed incorrectly.

But if you want to check it:
Get a new gasket.
Put bike in gear and roll backwards. This puts the cam chain slack on the tensioner side.
Remove the phillips head cover screw from the tensioner.
Insert a flat blade screw driver into the tensioner and back out the center screw. When doing this count the " clicks" . Fully back out the center screw. Note the number of clicks.
The tensioner will stay at full retraction unless jared.
Remove the tensioner by removing the two bolts that hold it in place.
Insert screw driver and advance the ternsioner again counting the clicks. Full advance varies but is usually 15 clicks.
Compare that to what you got while it was in the engine. 6 to 8 is way good. 12 may mean worn cam chain giude but still ok.
To install, put the bike in gear and roll backwards. This will force the slack in the cam chain to the tensioner side. Retract the tensioner and carefully install in engine keeping it retracted. Once tightened up insert screw driver and gently release tensioner slowing its advance with screw driver till it stops. Count clicks if you want but it will be different than the first time because of the new gasket.

Here's the varmit.The plunger on right presses up against the cam chain guide. its a simple device. It must be installedI with the plunger retracted. It can be incorrectly installed fully extended but will trash the chain guide and maybe more stuff.

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Old 03-09-2012, 08:09 AM   #23043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Chicken or the egg thing here maybe? Valve spring pressure will put more pressure on the cam bearings than the tensioner ever could. How about this? Worn cam bearings could be causing the cam chain to run loose and flap into the reed valve like some of us have seen. I dunno?
No kidding, it is doubtful we will really know the complete reason.

"The cam chain tensioner is a HUGE debate issue for the 610, akin to oil type.
Looking at the tensioner it seems impossible that it could overtighten.
It is far more likly that the tensioner was installed incorrectly."

I think my ACCT had overclicked because of what I think was chain whipping at high revs.
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:19 AM   #23044
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Originally Posted by gunnr View Post
Out of curiousity, how would one know know the CCT had overtightened itself? I just picked up a low mile 08 and was thinking of checking the number of clicks.
After I check the adjuster clicks, I put it back in and ride the bike around the block and pull it back out and see if it is the same as when I first checked it.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:35 AM   #23045
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Husky agrees and put the 510 dual cam head on the 630. BMW decided Husky doesn't need the 630 anymore.
Larry - you are a great tech resource - but I remember reading one of your posts where you said you never got more than 20,000 miles out of any thumper (except a Suzy 200). I think you are harder on bikes than some of us.

I am at nearly 20,000 miles on my 610 - clutch bushing is fine, all wheel bearing fine, on 2nd clutch cable, and 2nd cam chain, all the nuts in the air cleaner cover are still good, do the valves every 4000 mils or so,.

I am not saying you are wrong and I plan on refreshing the top end this summer - but some of us get more miles out of our bikes.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:45 AM   #23046
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Originally Posted by Flashman1 View Post
Larry - you are a great tech resource - but I remember reading one of your posts where you said you never got more than 20,000 miles out of any thumper (except a Suzy 200). I think you are harder on bikes than some of us.

I am at nearly 20,000 miles on my 610 - clutch bushing is fine, all wheel bearing fine, on 2nd clutch cable, and 2nd cam chain, all the nuts in the air cleaner cover are still good, do the valves every 4000 mils or so,.

I am not saying you are wrong and I plan on refreshing the top end this summer - but some of us get more miles out of our bikes.

Pssst: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=23031


I think I said that I won't go past 20,000 miles on a thumper without a full bare cases rebuild. I ride alone in remote places and don't want the machine to leave me for dead.

Perhaps you don't know how to check for wear on the things I'm telling you about? No offense. I mean, my first clutch bushing was gone at 7,000 miles. It's entirely possible that you putt around at 2500 rpm and I average 5,000 rpm and wear things out in half the time, but I've seen the same wear on a second 610 not owned by me...you're on borrowed time with your bike.

I'll shut up now, I feel like I'm beating a dead horse.
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:33 PM   #23047
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Pssst: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=23031



I'll shut up now, I feel like I'm beating a dead horse.
Not at all - I value your information. - It is just I have not had all the problems you have had - and yes I know how to tell if wheel bearings are bad - clutch cables and air cleaner cover nuts speak for themselves - I pulled my clutch apart and tried to feel the basket move but it felt good. The top end stuff is hard to see without a tear down - I will do it this summer and ask your advice on what I find.

And yes I ride like the old man I am - even though 2/3s of my 20,000 miles have been off road in southern Az and southern Colorado both of which have some pretty rough riding.

Have only hit the rev limiter a couple of times.
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:09 PM   #23048
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I'll shut up now, I feel like I'm beating a dead horse.
Did you purchase your TE610 new with zero miles or was it used when you acquired it?
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:06 AM   #23049
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Did you purchase your TE610 new with zero miles or was it used when you acquired it?

New, zero miles...man, I loved that bike.
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:16 AM   #23050
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Anyone know if the CCT on a 2000 tc 610 is a manual adjuster??


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Old 03-10-2012, 07:55 PM   #23051
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Anyone know if the CCT on a 2000 tc 610 is a manual adjuster??

It's an auto.
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:00 AM   #23052
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
It's an auto.
Thanks, I'm on the hunt of a manual one to fit on a 09


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Old 03-11-2012, 04:27 AM   #23053
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Thanks, I'm on the hunt of a manual one to fit on a 09
http://www.bigborethumpers.com/tensioners.html
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:35 AM   #23054
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just put in the ape cct

So put in gear did 6th on a stand rolled backwards. Spun in finger tight till it stopped then set jamb nut. Cool? Ape says find tdc then back off a 1/4 turn after turning in... Thoughts
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:27 AM   #23055
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The APE method sounds alright for initial set up. I set these things by ear with the engine running...
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