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Old 03-29-2012, 01:12 AM   #23071
joespeedfast
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Originally Posted by esp41 View Post
After being ridden for 10 minutes, it was idling 3 to 5 minutes, which is a long traffic light around here. It was about 50 degrees ambient temperature at the time. The popping was definately excessive at two turns, kinda like a continuous loud cackle. It is barely noticable at three turns.

Does that help?

Mike

Ya, try three 1/2 turns out, while hot and pay attention to rpm change(start with it turned way down for accuracy). If it is not slowing down-and certainly if it is still climbing, keep going-in 1/4 turn increments.
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Old 03-29-2012, 03:19 AM   #23072
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FYI, the nuts welded to the mid pipe on the 610 to hold the heat shields have started to crack on mine. You might want to check yours. It was an easy fix, just a little mig welder set pretty low because the header 2 into 1 end is very thin and will burn through easily. I think prior to fixing I noticed a little bit of pop on decel, but it could have been in my head. They did crack enough to allow a good bit of air to flow through. I also noticed that the clamp that comes with the LV x3 is too wimpy to completely seal the slip on to the mid pipe. I had signs of gases passing through that connection also. That was easily fixed too. I just went back to the bigger heavy duty OEM clamp. I did find that a bit of WD40 helped when tightening it down. With out the WD40, it seem that the clamp wasn't sliding around the flange very nicely and actually causing the sleeve to bunch up a bit and allow more of a leak. I don't take the shields off much and that's why I missed all this until now, so you might want to have a look at your own and catch it before it gets too bad.


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Old 03-29-2012, 09:12 AM   #23073
esp41
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Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
So my 2006, still with less than 1k miles, has a pretty well fubared intake manifold (the rubber spigot that connects the carb to the head). Cracked about 90% of the way through the corner where the tube part meets the base. I did like Flashman1 (if I remember right) and filled all the cracks with black RTV and troweled a bunch more on the outside. Should hold for awhile.

Long term, I'm really not in the mood to pay $84 to BMW for another POS part that has to be replaced at fairly frequent intervals. I'm already looking forward to being off that cycle with my car soon.

Anyone else interested in a more permanent solution to this if it was the same or just a little more expensive than stock? I don't really want to be in the Husky parts business, but if there was a chance to get something made custom, it would probably cost a lot less per piece to get more than one made.

Off with me to emachineshop.com.
I'm very interested. PM me the details once you have something lined up.

Mike
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:28 AM   #23074
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Originally Posted by Taranis View Post


Okay, figured out how to make the part in emachineshop's quirky world, got it priced.
$190 for one aluminum spigot.
$28 each for ten aluminum spigots. Would have to add $3.95 each for the priority mail small box. Still need to source the coupler (talked with a vendor tonight) and o-ring of appropriate material such as Viton (see below).

The stock replacement part is currently $83.43 at my local dealer and at Hall's. Motoxotica quoted a few bucks more. Rubber aftermarket replacement parts of this general type are around $30. None that I could find were close enough to be able to be adapted.

This aluminum adapter will be good if you're interested in having the smoothest flow between the carb and head. The stock rubber adapter is 2mm smaller ID than the carb outlet, which means there's a 1mm straight step down all around the wall. It also isn't round at the head, so you have an uneven step back out there to the port.

This part has a straight taper from the carb outlet ID to the port diameter, so you have essentially a perfectly "gasket matched" intake.

I designed in an o-ring groove where it mates to the head, so it has a modern, serviceable seal instead of schmoo from a tube that has to be scraped off, reapplied and left to cure for some length of time before gassing it up any time the part is removed.

Anybody interested in going in on this with me?
Looking at my bike, there is not a whole lot of room between the carb and the head. Wouldn't your coupler required two hose clamps in that limited space, as well as the bolts to the head? Any worries about heat transfer from the head to the carb? Could this part be made out of better, thicker quality rubber instead of an aluminum piece and a rubber coupler?

Just playing devils advocate here before the trigger is pulled. Looks like a nice piece and I an still interested.

Mike
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:00 AM   #23075
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Originally Posted by Xcuvator View Post
you might check withGeorge at Uptite, He used to sell some stuff for the 610 motor. I think he even had his own cam grind.

I called him several years ago about boring out for a bigger piston and he had no clue. I got the impression that I would never see my piston and cylinder again if I sent them to him to "try and figure out if a piston was made and it could be bored to 600cc".

Did you guys look through the full catalog at Sudco to look for a flange? I found a flange to fit my BMW 1150 so I could run a flatside Mikuni and the flanges were only about $27 each and fit perfect. There isn't room on the 610 to vary from stock very far.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:10 AM   #23076
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I called him several years ago about boring out for a bigger piston and he had no clue. I got the impression that I would never see my piston and cylinder again if I sent them to him to "try and figure out if a piston was made and it could be bored to 600cc".

Did you guys look through the full catalog at Sudco to look for a flange? I found a flange to fit my BMW 1150 so I could run a flatside Mikuni and the flanges were only about $27 each and fit perfect. There isn't room on the 610 to vary from stock very far.
I'm pretty sure I read about a guy who did a over bore over @ TT a couple years ago. Thought the parts came from Uptite. ??
I think the rubber manifold cuts down on heat and more importantly vibes.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:24 AM   #23077
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I was going to report that after reading about a guy over a CH who put a 450/510 Rekluse Pro in his 630, I bit the bullet and got one for my 610. Install was pretty much by the book with a couple of exceptions, From what I could find out the 630 install was completely by the book, so there are some slight differences in the clutch parts between the 610-630.
I have a Rekluse in my WR 250 and TE 450, this one has by far the best manual over ride of the three. The hand clutch works really well with lass effort than a hydraulic clutch. I suspect the cable could outlast several bikes.
I have LHRB setups on the other two bikes and planned to do the same thing with the 610 but the clutch lever works so good, I'm not so sure now.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:56 PM   #23078
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Pissed Puked crank

Well never got to valve adj. the motor started making too much noise. Still running strong but sounding bad. Took up to Central Jersey Bob. Bad news the crank was junk. Rod bearing. 9k on motor . Anyone else had this happen to them? Going forward with rebuild but really don't know way it puked so early. I ride it hard but also maintance good. Any feedback would be cool. Thanks folks
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:41 PM   #23079
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Originally Posted by Xcuvator View Post
I was going to report that after reading about a guy over a CH who put a 450/510 Rekluse Pro in his 630, I bit the bullet and got one for my 610. Install was pretty much by the book with a couple of exceptions, From what I could find out the 630 install was completely by the book, so there are some slight differences in the clutch parts between the 610-630.
I have a Rekluse in my WR 250 and TE 450, this one has by far the best manual over ride of the three. The hand clutch works really well with lass effort than a hydraulic clutch. I suspect the cable could outlast several bikes.
I have LHRB setups on the other two bikes and planned to do the same thing with the 610 but the clutch lever works so good, I'm not so sure now.
Details PLEASE!!!! What did you have to do to get it to work?
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:13 PM   #23080
larryboy
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Originally Posted by Blastoff610 View Post
Well never got to valve adj. the motor started making too much noise. Still running strong but sounding bad. Took up to Central Jersey Bob. Bad news the crank was junk. Rod bearing. 9k on motor . Anyone else had this happen to them? Going forward with rebuild but really don't know way it puked so early. I ride it hard but also maintance good. Any feedback would be cool. Thanks folks

It's happened to a few here, get on the ball and get a new crank ordered ASAP, takes awhile to get one from what I've read. I'd hit up MotoXotica or Halls.
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:59 PM   #23081
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http://www.htmracing.it/cms/index.ph...190&Itemid=182

Check out htmracing, they have a 610 kit for the 570/610 and a 660 for the 630. This link is in Italian, but I think you will find a spot to change to English.


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Old 03-29-2012, 05:08 PM   #23082
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Details PLEASE!!!! What did you have to do to get it to work?
Very little needed to be done differently.
The stock throwout and ball is retained because the bore for the pushrod is too small in the one supplied by Rekluse. I lengthened (adjusted) the pushrod .100" so the pressure plate would bottom on the lower assembly. It turned out I didn't need quite that much. To get a better engagement and lockup, I used all six of the tungsten carbide balls in the kit, plus three I had left over from my WR250 install. I'm going to try a little lighter (L3) engagement spring when I take it back apart to change the damper spring washers. The engagement is good now, I just want to see if it can get any better.
It actually works better than I thought it would. Did I mention the over ride is really good?
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:23 PM   #23083
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Originally Posted by Xcuvator View Post
Very little needed to be done differently.
The stock throwout and ball is retained because the bore for the pushrod is too small in the one supplied by Rekluse. I lengthened (adjusted) the pushrod .100" so the pressure plate would bottom on the lower assembly. It turned out I didn't need quite that much. To get a better engagement and lockup, I used all six of the tungsten carbide balls in the kit, plus three I had left over from my WR250 install. I'm going to try a little lighter (L3) engagement spring when I take it back apart to change the damper spring washers. The engagement is good now, I just want to see if it can get any better.
It actually works better than I thought it would. Did I mention the over ride is really good?
Can you order the extra balls easily or would it take a lot of effort to get them? I'd love to put one in my 610.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:45 PM   #23084
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Can you order the extra balls easily or would it take a lot of effort to get them? I'd love to put one in my 610.
Brandon, They offer extra balls, so no problem. Maybe check with Brian for a price and see if he can get them to throw some extras in, I may get three more to try just to see what happens.
The KLR kits come with all TC balls.
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:34 PM   #23085
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Originally Posted by esp41
Looking at my bike, there is not a whole lot of room between the carb and the head. Wouldn't your coupler require two hose clamps in that limited space, as well as the bolts to the head? Any worries about heat transfer from the head to the carb? Could this part be made out of better, thicker quality rubber instead of an aluminum piece and a rubber coupler?
Yeah, this thing isn't very long. It's currently designed to replace the rubber manifold up to the end of the ID section, which is 0.840". One hose clamp would live where it lives now on the carb side of the junction, another hose clamp would live on about a 1/2-in. long section below the lip on the spigot. Enough space.

I was concerned about clearing the bolt heads, but this should have no issues between the bolts and hose clamp. Who uses engine mount-sized bolts to hold the carb on the head, anyway? A pair of M5 or M6 would be more than enough.

The carb won't actually touch this part. The silicone coupling will still be the only physical connection between the two, so minimal heat transfer.

Ideally, the part would just be made out of one of the newer, mo-betta grades of Viton and last forever, but I don't know how to get that done in low volume. Molds are expensive and DuPont doesn't sell those resins to just anybody.

Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Did you guys look through the full catalog at Sudco to look for a flange? I found a flange to fit my BMW 1150 so I could run a flatside Mikuni and the flanges were only about $27 each and fit perfect. There isn't room on the 610 to vary from stock very far.
I work about a mile from Sudco. I looked at their catalog, picked out the one part that looked like it would work, drove over there on my lunch break and asked to see it. The ID that mates to the head is waaaay too big. One of the sales guys came down to help and went looking in the warehouse, and the best match he came back with was the same one I'd picked out of the catalog. No dice there.

That $27 price for what it "should" cost is part of the reason I want to do this.

So far, there's only one other guy interested. For two of them, the deal is going to be more like $120 each for everything.
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