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Old 06-08-2012, 05:48 AM   #23551
BiG DoM
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Joined: Jun 2002
Location: South Africa
Oddometer: 2,458
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
Would you share your settings with me? What mods do you have?


Life is good!
Hi There - I have basically same mods as you (opened and decatted OEM exhaust though). Also fitted the JD an BIG improvement. I e-mailed James at JD and copy his e-mail below. I have set it at his first suggestion and still need to play a bit but gives you a very good starting point. Great guys to deal with even though I am on the other end of the pond!

The standard settings are-

Green 3/4
Yellow 4
Red 3
Green/Blue 3/4
Yellow/Blue 4
Red/Blue 4/5
==========
With a more free flowing exhaust and air box on the 2009 TE610, try using the following-
Green 4
Yellow 5/6 (and maybe 6, or 7 for comparison)
Red 4
Green/Blue 4
Yellow/Blue 4
Red/Blue 5

You should try a few other settings, just changing one Mode at a time to see if there is a difference and improvement.
See the online adjustment demo at-

http://jdjetting.com/html/faq.htm#demo

Thanks,
James
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:55 AM   #23552
Mgizler
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Council Bluffs, IA
Oddometer: 52
Larryboy,
I checked the side to side play with the basket and all seems ok. The woodruff key is still intact as well. I made sure I cranked down the 38mm nut with an impact wrench.

Also one other thing that I did not mention was the fact that the bike is hard starting. I have to hold the gas about mid throttle for it to fire and on quick decels it will sometimes die. Making for a pain in the butt when riding on the trails.

I am attributing this issue to the fact that the bike sat for two years with old gas in the tank and gummed up the carb. I cleaned the carb out three times before everything was blown out of it and runs decent. However, I am still not happy with the current carb setup and want to make some changes. I was considering a JD jet kit and possibly a LV slip on. Also, on the Intake Venturi of the carb, the surface is like sandpaper. Like they never finished machining the carb venturi. Do any of you other guys have the same issue with the carb.

Thanks again guys for all the help/advice. Hopefully my cam chain and head gasket will come today and I can tear into it.

I keep you guys posted.

Mark
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:35 AM   #23553
1 lunger
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Location: Bloomfield CT
Oddometer: 1,175
Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post
Hi There - I have basically same mods as you (opened and decatted OEM exhaust though). Also fitted the JD an BIG improvement. I e-mailed James at JD and copy his e-mail below. I have set it at his first suggestion and still need to play a bit but gives you a very good starting point. Great guys to deal with even though I am on the other end of the pond!

The standard settings are-

Green 3/4
Yellow 4
Red 3
Green/Blue 3/4
Yellow/Blue 4
Red/Blue 4/5
==========
With a more free flowing exhaust and air box on the 2009 TE610, try using the following-
Green 4
Yellow 5/6 (and maybe 6, or 7 for comparison)
Red 4
Green/Blue 4
Yellow/Blue 4
Red/Blue 5

You should try a few other settings, just changing one Mode at a time to see if there is a difference and improvement.
See the online adjustment demo at-

http://jdjetting.com/html/faq.htm#demo

Thanks,
James
Yes, They are very helpful at JD tuning co. I started with his preset settings and changed a few. G-3/4 Y-5 R-3/4 GB-3/4 YB-4 RB-5 still adjusting, but this feels pretty good.


Life is good!
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Old 06-08-2012, 07:05 AM   #23554
Taranis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgizler View Post
Larryboy,
I checked the side to side play with the basket and all seems ok. The woodruff key is still intact as well. I made sure I cranked down the 38mm nut with an impact wrench.
Go back and use a torque wrench, and hope you didn't screw it up. I once missed parts of an endurance race because some guy used an impact on the axle nut, and it actually broke the axle. Wheel came off on the track in the night.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgizler View Post
I am attributing this issue to the fact that the bike sat for two years with old gas in the tank and gummed up the carb. I cleaned the carb out three times before everything was blown out of it and runs decent. However, I am still not happy with the current carb setup and want to make some changes. I was considering a JD jet kit and possibly a LV slip on.
Should have only taken one cleaning. Fuel filters are FTW. Rocky Mountain ATV has the best price on the motorcycle-sized inline plastic ones.

I did the "Malcolm Smith" jetting, and it's running really well. Instant starting, crisp response, more power. Cheaper than a JD kit. (I have the JD kit on my YZ, and it does rock there.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgizler View Post
Also, on the Intake Venturi of the carb, the surface is like sandpaper. Like they never finished machining the carb venturi. Do any of you other guys have the same issue with the carb.
Yeah, I took it off and filed out the lip at the leading edge and knocked down the biggest bumps, sanded it with some 80-grit. It's not polished smooth, but a lot smoother than it started. Don't know if it makes a difference, but it makes me feel better to look at it.
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:08 AM   #23555
Mgizler
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Council Bluffs, IA
Oddometer: 52
I was using an electric impact on a low setting. It does not push alot of torque. I almost never use am impact on my bikes but a 38mm nut on the countershaft sprocket should be able to hold a little impact I would think. I still have it apart minus the Basket being reinstalled. Ill just pull it for peace of mind.
Thanks for the heads up.

Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Go back and use a torque wrench, and hope you didn't screw it up. I once missed parts of an endurance race because some clown used an impact on the axle nut, and it actually broke the axle. Wheel came off on the track in the night.



Should have only taken one cleaning. Fuel filters are FTW. Rocky Mountain ATV has the best price on the motorcycle-sized inline plastic ones.

I did the "Malcolm Smith" jetting, and it's running really well. Instant starting, crisp response, more power. Cheaper than a JD kit. (I have the JD kit on my YZ, and it does rock there.)



Yeah, I took it off and filed out the lip at the leading edge and knocked down the biggest bumps, sanded it with some 80-grit. It's not polished smooth, but a lot smoother than it started. Don't know if it makes a difference, but it makes me feel better to look at it.
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:10 AM   #23556
larryboy
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Location: Über Alles,Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post
Pulled mine a few days ago - counted 16 grooves in total including the first.

You either removed it wrong or you have worn through both screws on the reed valve and don't hear the horrible rattle anymore.
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:12 AM   #23557
larryboy
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Location: Über Alles,Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgizler View Post
I was using an electric impact on a low setting. It does not push alot of torque. I almost never use am impact on my bikes but a 38mm nut on the countershaft sprocket should be able to hold a little impact I would think. I still have it apart minus the Basket being reinstalled. Ill just pull it for peace of mind.
Thanks for the heads up.

Mark

I've been using an impact for years, there is a locking tab on that nut...no big deal. With all the bikes I go through I can't afford a basket holding tool for every bike just so I can use a torque wrench.
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:27 AM   #23558
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
You either removed it wrong or you have worn through both screws on the reed valve and don't hear the horrible rattle anymore.

I think we may be talking about 2 different things. Possible versus actual.

Try this. There are around 16 teeth on the adjuster when fully extended for 06+ stock auto adjusters, but at about 10-11 (exposed/extended) teeth you are probably rubbing the reed valve cover. 6-7 is about normal. So if you pulled the adjuster (removing the spring first) and counted >11 you probably have damage there to go look at.
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:35 AM   #23559
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K7MDL View Post
I think we may be talking about 2 different things. Possible versus actual.

Try this. There are around 16 teeth on the adjuster when fully extended for 06+ stock auto adjusters, but at about 10-11 (exposed/extended) teeth you are probably rubbing the reed valve cover. 6-7 is about normal. So if you pulled the adjuster (removing the spring first) and counted >11 you probably have damage there to go look at.

He claimed 16 grooves when he checked his adjuster with no problems, that's why I said what I said.
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:00 PM   #23560
Mgizler
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Council Bluffs, IA
Oddometer: 52
Got all the parts in today from Halls. Head Gasket, Cam Chain, VC Gaskets, and WP gasket. Im going to tear into it tonight or tomorrow sometime. Thanks again for all the help guys.

Mark
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:01 PM   #23561
drrags
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Location: Reno, NV
Oddometer: 1,810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgizler View Post
Got all the parts in today from Halls. Head Gasket, Cam Chain, VC Gaskets, and WP gasket. Im going to tear into it tonight or tomorrow sometime. Thanks again for all the help guys.

Mark
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:28 PM   #23562
1 lunger
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Location: Bloomfield CT
Oddometer: 1,175
So I was tightening my chain today and the RH side adjustment bolt stripped out of the swing arm. It's been funny for awhile, hard to turn... I think I can tap it, but for now I'm going to put another nut on it that will act like a lock to the existing one. I didn't take it out to check the bolt yet. I have a tire coming and will do it then. I assume the bolts fine and its the threads in the swing arm went. Do you think this will work (the double nut thing) until I can tap and thread it?

Edit: if I'm not being clear, when I try and sung up the nut on the adjuster bolt that butts to the swing arm, the bolt just gets pulled out of the swing arm.

Life is good!

1 lunger screwed with this post 06-08-2012 at 05:43 PM
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:19 PM   #23563
Mgizler
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Location: Council Bluffs, IA
Oddometer: 52
It should be fine once you tighten up the axle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
So I was tightening my chain today and the RH side adjustment bolt stripped out of the swing arm. It's been funny for awhile, hard to turn... I think I can tap it, but for now I'm going to put another nut on it that will act like a lock to the existing one. I didn't take it out to check the bolt yet. I have a tire coming and will do it then. I assume the bolts fine and its the threads in the swing arm went. Do you think this will work (the double nut thing) until I can tap and thread it?

Edit: if I'm not being clear, when I try and sung up the nut on the adjuster bolt that butts to the swing arm, the bolt just gets pulled out of the swing arm.

Life is good!
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:39 PM   #23564
1 lunger
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Location: Bloomfield CT
Oddometer: 1,175
Right... There's not much pressure on the threads it the swing arm boss, right? If I use another nut to lock the OEM one against the face of the swing arm boss it should be fine. It's just going to be a pain to adjust.


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Old 06-09-2012, 02:24 PM   #23565
toddler
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Pinewood Springs, CO(between Lyons and Estes Park)
Oddometer: 2,689
Outer clutch basket fix

Based on many people's experience here, I took a look at my outer clutch basket to see how the spring retaining washers were looking. Since I was doing the clutch bushing, cam chain, blah, blah, blah... this was a no brainer.

Sadly, mine was hammered after 18K miles. Since, I had IndyUnlimited's(Dan's) flywheel puller and he makes the awesome retaining washers, I asked him if he had the parts to fix my clutch. He did and was willing to sell with them.

Next step, how to perform the fix? Hmmmm...Dan recommended the moto shop as he is not a fan of doing the work on these himself, but after 0.1 microseconds he offered to do mine if I helped. What a trooper. He only lives 1.5 hours away.

Dan's got the moto addiction real good. The only cure is more motorcycles and ideas to be implemented.

So the following pictures are of the process needed to fix your outer clutch hub.

Start by carefully grinding off the rivet's on the outside.





Then mark with a sharpie the rivet locations and use a press to press them out.





Then seperate the pieces.



Here are my hammered washers. Errr....in some cases plugs.



with Dan's parts next to some hammered ones.



Take the new washers and put into a spring. Place in compressor(vise in this case) and put into the middle plate.



Use a rubber mallet to align in the middle.



Like so.



Some of the damage caused by the springs moving around freely.



Reassemble the pieces.



Some of the tools used.



Heat up the rivet, red hot.





Place rivet into location and use the air hammer on the skinny side and place the inner side up against something hard and stable. We used the vice with a sacrificial quarter taped in place to create a small offset.



Use a hammer and punch to mushroom the outer side so everything is real tight.



All done after finishing the 3rd rivet.

Dan then had me file off my divets from the clutch pack on the drive side. This helps make the clutch smoother to engage.

It was lots of fun for me to see and do this. But I'm sure Dan is a bit tired of it.

Anyways, THANKS DAN
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