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Old 06-26-2012, 08:07 AM   #23776
uska
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Location: chicago
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Used motorex since that's what my local husky dealer sells. Did not have time to see how it runs now, just made a very short run down the street.

Does it take time for oil to start running in the glass eye (what you call it) ? Since i could not tell if it was. I guess it would be still visible even that the oil got such light color. I know the level is good.

What a dumb idea to not wise up before changing an oil for the first time on a machine you never had before. Now i have to drain the oil again and clean the screens..
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:55 AM   #23777
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Location: Bloomfield CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
common, i am still on my break in miles and already getting hooked on mods. I think it runs pretty sweet as is.. for now
does the jd have pre loaded maps, auto mode or you do the tuning yourself? i'm sure this has been covered so i'm going to search
You can add or subtract fuel at different rpm ranges at the touch of a button. Very easy and a small amount / % of fuel makes a huge difference!!


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Old 06-26-2012, 10:00 AM   #23778
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
Used motorex since that's what my local husky dealer sells. Did not have time to see how it runs now, just made a very short run down the street.

Does it take time for oil to start running in the glass eye (what you call it) ? Since i could not tell if it was. I guess it would be still visible even that the oil got such light color. I know the level is good.

What a dumb idea to not wise up before changing an oil for the first time on a machine you never had before. Now i have to drain the oil again and clean the screens..
If you just changed your oil and didn't see anything on the magnetic drain plug then you should be ok with the screen until next time. I have 7k+ on my 09 and never had anything but some flecks of the plastic stuff off the stator in LH screen. The RHS screen is spotless to date.


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Old 06-26-2012, 10:00 AM   #23779
drrags
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Reno, NV
Oddometer: 1,810
What year? In other words, do you have 06 bars that are 7/8" and thick walled, or 08 and later fat bars (1-1/8" -> 7/8")?
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Originally Posted by ADVJake View Post
does anyone know the ID (Inner Diameter) of the stock TE610 handlebars, towards the end where the grips attach?

thanks
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:23 AM   #23780
nathan8315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVJake View Post
does anyone know the ID (Inner Diameter) of the stock TE610 handlebars, towards the end where the grips attach?

thanks
I'm not sure exactly, but I have an 09 and had to drill the bars ends out to put Enduro Engineering hand gaurds on. So if thats why you are asking it's small.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:25 AM   #23781
drrags
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I've always wondered about this. My 610 runs, as far as I know, perfectly. Are you saying that these devices make it even better, or is it more to make a marginally running bike run acceptable?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
You can add or subtract fuel at different rpm ranges at the touch of a button. Very easy and a small amount / % of fuel makes a huge difference!!


Life is good!
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:25 PM   #23782
uska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
If you just changed your oil and didn't see anything on the magnetic drain plug then you should be ok with the screen until next time. I have 7k+ on my 09 and never had anything but some flecks of the plastic stuff off the stator in LH screen. The RHS screen is spotless to date.


Life is good!
This was my first oil change so there was a decent amount of aluminum flakes all around the magnet.
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:06 PM   #23783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
This was my first oil change so there was a decent amount of aluminum flakes all around the magnet.
Aluminum is magnetic?
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:30 PM   #23784
uska
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Trying to see if someone was paying attention. Good
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:03 PM   #23785
ADVJake
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Location: Sydney, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrags View Post
What year? In other words, do you have 06 bars that are 7/8" and thick walled, or 08 and later fat bars (1-1/8" -> 7/8")?
I have the 06 bar with 7/8" thick wall
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:45 PM   #23786
Creation
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Location: North Seattle
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Just wanted to share some updates to my Husky that I made a few months ago.

New windscreen and bag


Better headlight cause stock sucks


Giant Loop Great Basin and Rotopax water jug underneath
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Old 06-27-2012, 12:27 AM   #23787
Taranis
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Location: LBC, yo.
Oddometer: 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
I know a few on here have mentioned replacing the oe crappy bolts.. I'd like to order some for pegs, covers etc. but cannot find their info. pitch, length.. any help here?

I thank, in advance
I used ARP stainless flange head bolts. Maybe overkill, but I'm happy. One nice thing about them is they use the same reduced wrenching sizes as many of the stock bolts. It's really dang hard to find inventory of such bolts in other standards like IFI 536, and then to find high-strength versions of them is almost impossible. I went with 6-point, as you can use a 12-point or 6-point socket on them, but you can't use a 6-point socket on a 12-point bolt.

Here's the list of what I replaced and ARP part numbers. All the p/n include five bolts and five washers. The "pack quantity" column is the qty of each p/n you need to order to get the required quantity of bolts. Apparently, I have extra M6x20 bolts around.

Some of the lengths are changed slightly from stock (+5mm) for complete thread engagement (triple clamps). I don't have the passenger pegs, which I think are incompatible with a flange bolt on the LHS. Need an SHCS for that, but most hardware stores carry grade 12.9 in black oxide. Just need to paint that one so it doesn't rust.

One of the main criteria I used in selecting which fasteners to replace was thread condition of the ones I took out. If the threads were showing early signs of rounding off from normal service (my bike is relatively new, hasn't been apart and back together a million times), I figured it was worth using the high-strength bolts to preserve the mating female threads in the expensive components, like fork bottoms, triple clamps and handlebar mount. The other criteria was a missing stock fastener (upper engine mount) or common reports of failure (foot pegs and subframe/rear pegs).

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Old 06-27-2012, 08:44 AM   #23788
uska
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Taranis, thanks for looking that up. Reading previous posts ive seen you upgrade your bolts Ive already ordered a set of fasteners http://www.desmoparts.com/products/p...teel-screw-kit
A fellow inmate recommended this set and it looked like its pretty complete with 241pcs. I will only have to get better peg bolts.
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:57 AM   #23789
ELM0T0L0C0
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Location: P-Town, Portland OR
Oddometer: 184
Owners manuals and Exploded Parts Daigrams

Probably old news to most of you but:

http://www.husqvarna-motorcyclesna.com/manuals.php
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:57 AM   #23790
JustRon
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I have the desmo bolts... they come labeled in individual bags, which was a nice surprise (I expected a box of metal). They seem like decent quality, but I've only swapped out a few bolts so far. If anything needs replacing, I'll reach for the desmos, but it seems like the bolts I always need to replace are for aftermarket parts (like, handguards).
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