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Old 06-27-2012, 10:01 AM   #23791
drrags
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Not old news to me, thanks dude!
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Originally Posted by ELM0T0L0C0 View Post
Probably old news to most of you but:

http://www.husqvarna-motorcyclesna.com/manuals.php
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:18 PM   #23792
xymotic
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Today we had an honest-to-god "hot" day here in Seattle. I got stuck in traffic and as I was sitting there looking at the 7' wide path in between the cars daydreaming about lane-splitting when I lived in Los Angeles, I realized that my left leg was getting hot.

And I realized it's never really done that before

So after a bit more of this crap, with my enricher cable thingy stuck, so the motor was idling fast the whole time, I decided the 'prudent thing to do would be to pull over and let her cool down.

At which point the overflow bottle blew like a whale exhaling. Hmm, maybe shouldn't have shut it off?

So anyway, I'm just curious, what should the temp be at the header when shot with a laser when it's 'normal' ?
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:03 PM   #23793
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
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Does your fan shut off with your ignition key? Mine stays running as I recall ('07 carb). I have a temp gauge and idling fast on warm/hot pavement the temp certainly climbs and the fan needs to work hard. My guess is with teh temp on the high end, you shut off teh engione and the flow, the stored heat in the engine was just enough to raise the temp and expand (maybe even a steam bubble) in the cylinder head area enough to lift the relief spring in the rad cap. The headers have been known to glow red at night, so that would be very hot. My mixture is richer and does not do that anymore.
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:49 PM   #23794
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Originally Posted by K7MDL View Post
Does your fan shut off with your ignition key? Mine stays running as I recall ('07 carb). I have a temp gauge and idling fast on warm/hot pavement the temp certainly climbs and the fan needs to work hard. My guess is with teh temp on the high end, you shut off teh engione and the flow, the stored heat in the engine was just enough to raise the temp and expand (maybe even a steam bubble) in the cylinder head area enough to lift the relief spring in the rad cap. The headers have been known to glow red at night, so that would be very hot. My mixture is richer and does not do that anymore.
Yeah, the fan kicks off with key. I was thinking the same thing wrt the flow. But I thought it was odd that the overflow cap blew, not the rad cap.

It was all good after a couple beers @ Pyramid brewery

How much is the ticket for splitting in WA? (and can they even catch me if I do it????)
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6:10 to Yuma
trials and tribulations in the Mojave
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Old 06-27-2012, 10:07 PM   #23795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post

How much is the ticket for splitting in WA? (and can they even catch me if I do it????)

Probably less than an earplug ticket in California.
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Old 06-27-2012, 11:12 PM   #23796
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Taranis, thanks for looking that up. Reading previous posts ive seen you upgrade your bolts Ive already ordered a set of fasteners http://www.desmoparts.com/products/p...teel-screw-kit
A fellow inmate recommended this set and it looked like its pretty complete with 241pcs. I will only have to get better peg bolts.
Typical stainless steel fasteners from your local hardware store have an ultimate tensile strength of about 101,000 psi and a yield strength (where the metal is permanently deformed) well below that. I looked up some A2-70 info, and it follows that rule of thumb: 700 MPa ultimate tensile strength, but only 450 MPa yield strength, or 65,000 psi. They shouldn't be used for structural applications unless weight is of so little concern that you can afford to use substantially oversize fasteners.

A grade 12.9 metric bolt has a minimum ultimate tensile strength of 174,000 psi and a minimum yield strength of 157,000 psi. However, most readily-available, flange-head, metric bolts are graded no higher than 10.9 and have a minimum ultimate tensile strength of 145,000 psi and a minimum yield strength of 130,000 psi.

In contrast, ARP's flange head bolts sold in five-packs are much stronger. Polished ARP "Stainless 300" bolts have a yield strength of 140,000 psi (more than double A2-70) and ultimate tensile strength of 170,000 psi. ARP's 8740 chrome moly bolts, with a black oxide finish, are rated for a yield strength of 180,000 psi and an ultimate tensile strength of 200,000 psi - good enough to use as rod bolts in most engines.

If you happen to ride in salt, stainless steel will effectively resist corrosion of the fastener itself, but may tend to accelerate corrosion of any aluminum it's threaded into. Since this is California, I'm not super worried about that, but I still make it a habit to hit any accessible threaded areas, such as the triple clamps holding the fork tubes, with WD-40 after washing.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:37 AM   #23797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Yeah, the fan kicks off with key. I was thinking the same thing wrt the flow. But I thought it was odd that the overflow cap blew, not the rad cap.

It was all good after a couple beers @ Pyramid brewery

How much is the ticket for splitting in WA? (and can they even catch me if I do it????)
I always look longingly between the rows of cars stopped at lights/intersections...but I never have the balls to do it. I'm always concerned about the response of the people at the front of the intersection and their reaction when I pull up next to them/between them and wait for the light to change.

Do I just do it and say "fuck 'em" to myself, and make believe they're not there?
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:49 AM   #23798
JustRon
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Raising the forks in the triples

I've never tried raising my forks in the triples, but might give it a try. I have a couple questions...

1) Will 1/2 inch move cause the fender to hit the tire if teh forks are fully compressed? (I've only bottomed my susp a couple times- I weigh 150 lbs, and rarely get more than a couple feet off the ground.)
2) After I slide the tubes up, do I need to remove the axle before I torque the triple clamp bolts? I read somewhere that is a necessary step.
3) Other than quicker steering (which is what I'm looking for) and a slightly lower front-end, is there anything else I need to worry about (cable routing?) I'm not concerned about losing some high-speed stability, since I rarely go over 70mph.

thanks in advance
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Old 06-28-2012, 09:00 AM   #23799
LRPct
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Today we had an honest-to-god "hot" day here in Seattle. I got stuck in traffic and as I was sitting there looking at the 7' wide path in between the cars daydreaming about lane-splitting when I lived in Los Angeles, I realized that my left leg was getting hot.

And I realized it's never really done that before

So after a bit more of this crap, with my enricher cable thingy stuck, so the motor was idling fast the whole time, I decided the 'prudent thing to do would be to pull over and let her cool down.

At which point the overflow bottle blew like a whale exhaling. Hmm, maybe shouldn't have shut it off?

So anyway, I'm just curious, what should the temp be at the header when shot with a laser when it's 'normal' ?

The same thing got sticky on mine when I was home the other day when I fired her up for a minute since she's sittin for a few weeks.. Hope its not a pain when I look at the business end of the cable..
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:06 AM   #23800
drrags
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I brought my laser temp reader doodad to work with me this morning. After a 40 minute ride, I pulled into the parking lot and took a reading while it was idling. I aimed it at the header behind the front fender. I think it's kind of inconclusive though. I got readings between 345F and 500F. There's a rapid temperature decrease the farther down the header you go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post

So anyway, I'm just curious, what should the temp be at the header when shot with a laser when it's 'normal' ?
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:22 PM   #23801
K7MDL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Yeah, the fan kicks off with key. I was thinking the same thing wrt the flow. But I thought it was odd that the overflow cap blew, not the rad cap.
The rad cap did let go, just it was routed into the overflow tank which rapidly heated what was in there to the boiling point. Since the overflow tank is at normal atmospheric pressure (1ATM), the boiling point is lower than in the radiator which is under pressure. Probably have a 1.1 ATM cap installed which I think is stock. On the trail bikes it is common to replace the 1.1ATM cap with 1.4ATM or even 1.6ATM cap to raise the boiling point some and not spew so much. Too high pressure has its own problems though and does not solve the root problem of why the temp is so high to begin with (if it is a chronic problem). On my TE450 my rad guards preclude the use of rad louvers and the grill design blocks a lot of air flow. I had to add a fan.

Make sure your rad overflow tank level is proper level when cold. You may be running very low now and any hot water from the rad that hits it when the engine heats up might flash the minimal water in the tank. prehps even melting the tank or your overflow tank cap.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:05 PM   #23802
Gator Bait
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A Few Quick Questions

Hey Folks,

I've got a few questions I was hoping you guys could help with.

Background: I replaced my '06 TE610 camchain a while ago and am now just getting the bike back together in riding form. When I started the bike today it fired right up, but lots of while smoke was produced. I had squirted some oil into the spark plug hole, so I figured it was just the oil being burned off. I ran the bike for about 1 minute. It was only then that I realized that I had pulled out the cold start choke (and didn't push it back in when the bike started).

Next I tried to start it again but it would not turn over. I sprayed a little bit of starting fluid on the air filter and it started back up and idled fine for a few minutes, with little to no smoke. I shut it off and it started right back up. However, after I let it cool down the bike will not start again. It won't even sputter.

Question: Did I foul up the plug when I ran it with the choke engaged? Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks in advance guys.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:31 PM   #23803
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
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Location: Snohomish, WA
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I doubt the plug is fouled but you can pull and and look at it. Are you sure your valve clearances are correct. Cold engine?

When you say it would lnot turn over, I assume you mean it would crank over OK, but not fire up?

I would verify your valve clearances are proper. Easy to get them wrong, even for experienced persons.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:21 PM   #23804
bensl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NothingClever View Post
I finally got an adult supervisor at ASV to help me with P/Ns for my '06 TE610.

BRAKE

BLH03 - C5 Pro Series
BHF32 - F Series

CLUTCH

CLM03 - C5 Pro Series
CMF30 - F3 Standard
CMF33 - F3 Pro Series
i am looking for aftermarket levers for my 2009 610 but cannot find any definative info on what will fit and work with switches etc. anyone know if the above will work?
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:52 PM   #23805
Taranis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobnoxious67 View Post
I always look longingly between the rows of cars stopped at lights/intersections...but I never have the balls to do it. I'm always concerned about the response of the people at the front of the intersection and their reaction when I pull up next to them/between them and wait for the light to change.

Do I just do it and say "fuck 'em" to myself, and make believe they're not there?
Here in Cali, where lane splitting is legal, a lot of car drivers are totally cool with it. Especially if it's a long line of traffic stopped at a light, they don't have an issue with you going right to the front. They know you're not slowing them down, and they're stopped, so they don't need to worry about running into you.
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