Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

[Mgizler]

Well I ended up ordering a Barnett 101-37-10610 Cable directly from Barnett. After a few hours of trying to hunt one down from the many dealers in the area, I decided to call them directly when they opened. And they sold the new cable to me for 45$ + 10$ shipping and it will be to my door by Friday. Most of the local places wanted 56$-65$ for the cable plus shipping on top of that.

So if any of you guys Need a cable and want the Barnett here is their number. 1-805-642-9435

Thanks,
Mark

[Rattletrap]

Originally Posted by Mgizler

So, I am trying to finish up all reassembly of my bike and I come across this!!!!


less than 2000 miles. So now I am on the hunt for a new cable. What do you guys think for a replacement? I saw somewhere there were a few guys putting the barnetts on with good results, and I also saw where there were some guys doing a few mods and getting another stock one. Any suggestions?

Thanks guys.

Mark

After reading all the trouble with the stock cables, I rerouted the my stock cable and got 8000 miles out of it. But I had bought a +2 inch Barnett and zip tied it to the original for when it broke. And it did coming home from a 1200 mile mountain trip, so it was only a short roadside fix. I will always run two cables. I just bought the Highway dirtbar set up with risers and needed the +2 in cable. But with the Dirtbar set up the angle is even crazier, so not sure how long the new clutch cable will last. But to answer your question, yes the Barnett cable works.

[Rattletrap]

Originally Posted by Tachedoutoffroad

Got a deal on a TE today.

Still has all the emission stuff on it?? And a extra 19" rear off a TC model. Suspension is stiff is shit, the previous owner was 100lbs heavier than me, I hope I can just click it softer.

Welcome back Tached. Hope I get to see this one in person.

[Mgizler]

How did you reroute the stock cable. I was looking at it this morning and trying to figure out a better way to route it than it currently is. It just blows my mind that the cam chain was 8 clicks and the clutch cable was seconds away from breaking with less than 2000 miles on the clock.

Anyway, I would appreciate it If you could share a photo or diagram of how you had your cable run.

Thanks in advance,
Mark


QUOTE=Rattletrap;18936867]After reading all the trouble with the stock cables, I rerouted the my stock cable and got 8000 miles out of it. But I had bought a +2 inch Barnett and zip tied it to the original for when it broke. And it did coming home from a 1200 mile mountain trip, so it was only a short roadside fix. I will always run two cables. I just bought the Highway dirtbar set up with risers and needed the +2 in cable. But with the Dirtbar set up the angle is even crazier, so not sure how long the new clutch cable will last. But to answer your question, yes the Barnett cable works.[/QUOTE]

[larryboy]

Originally Posted by Mgizler

Anyway, I would appreciate it If you could share a photo or diagram of how you had your cable run.

Thanks in advance,
Mark

Like this up top:




Then it goes to the inside of the right radiator.

[sapienwaste]

Originally Posted by Xcuvator

That's true D&G, but there is a better than a 50% chance that he adjusted his valves at the end of the exhaust stroke the first time. Could be both?

I'm embarrassed to say this is likely.

[Mgizler]

Thanks larryboy. That's how it was before I tore everyting down. New barnett cable should be here Friday. Since its the cable that's 1 1/2 longer, do you think the same cable route would be good, or go outside of the bars.

Thanks,
Mark.

Originally Posted by larryboy

Like this up top:




Then it goes to the inside of the right radiator.

[rocky mtn nut]

I like the round headlights that Larry boy had on his te I have an 07 that's red and black does anyone have a pic of a Baha'i design on there te (the square one) I want to see one in red, black, or white and how it looks.

[Mgizler]

Okay guys,
I am not done yet, but thought I would quickly throw the carb and tank on to see if she would fire up. Well after a few minutes and some card adjustments, she came to life!!

Now I know what the noisy cam chain sounded like! I wasn't sure of the sound before I tore her down, but know its as quiet as can be. Sounds pretty smooth so far.

I still am waiting on the new clutch Cable(coming Friday) and double, triple checking everything before I go for a shakedown run.

Do any of you know what the operating temp of this motor is? Im currently running engine Ice and feel like it gets pretty hot. And even before the tear down, the fan would kick on after about 30-60 seconds of idling.

I mean, I know that if im not moving it is going to heat up quick, But I guess I am comparing it to my yz 450f that didnt have a catch can. So I expected it to start to boil over after about 30 of idling in the heat.

Im also worried that the head gasket might be leaking a little again. I cant take it out and ride until I get the cable to tell for sure. The last leak didn't show up until I was riding it hard and looked down to see it running down the side of the cylinder.

Anyhow, Ill give a full report after everything is all put together. And I am also working on a write-up of the teardown.

[John_L]

Originally Posted by taosgsr

So what is the overall consensus on aftermarket seats. I would like a tall seat that is comfortable and still somewhat narrow, any input? The tall narrow seat I currently have feels like Im sitting on a 2x4.

I've got a GUTS tall foam if you are interested. PM me and maybe we can work out a deal. It came to me with the purchase of a bunch of other stuff and I'm not going to use it. I make my own seats.

[awshouse]

I'm interested in adding a pad to my seat (Renazco leather). Love the seat, but I'm planning a 5 day road tour and need more cushion. Who has a pad they can recommend?

Thanks, Andy

[singletrak]

Do any of you know what the operating temp of this motor is? Im currently running engine Ice and feel like it gets pretty hot. And even before the tear down, the fan would kick on after about 30-60 seconds of idling.

Have you checked the impeller nut? Mine was doing some of the same things, running hotter than I thought it should run.
When I took the water pump apart, the impeller was just floating in the housing. The PO must have overtightened the impeller nut and ended up snapping the end of the shaft off. I had to buy a new cam shaft and impeller

Now it runs cooler like it is supposed to.

Good luck,
Singletrak

[KDouble]

Originally Posted by Mgizler

Okay guys,
I am not done yet, but thought I would quickly throw the carb and tank on to see if she would fire up. Well after a few minutes and some card adjustments, she came to life!!

Now I know what the noisy cam chain sounded like! I wasn't sure of the sound before I tore her down, but know its as quiet as can be. Sounds pretty smooth so far.

I still am waiting on the new clutch Cable(coming Friday) and double, triple checking everything before I go for a shakedown run.

Do any of you know what the operating temp of this motor is? Im currently running engine Ice and feel like it gets pretty hot. And even before the tear down, the fan would kick on after about 30-60 seconds of idling.

I mean, I know that if im not moving it is going to heat up quick, But I guess I am comparing it to my yz 450f that didnt have a catch can. So I expected it to start to boil over after about 30 of idling in the heat.

Im also worried that the head gasket might be leaking a little again. I cant take it out and ride until I get the cable to tell for sure. The last leak didn't show up until I was riding it hard and looked down to see it running down the side of the cylinder.

Anyhow, Ill give a full report after everything is all put together. And I am also working on a write-up of the teardown.

Look forward to the write up of the can chain replacement. Think I'm about due just hit 10,000

[Mgizler]

Everything seemed to be intact when I had the cam out for the chain replacement. Nothing seemed unusual. Impeller was nice and tight on the Cam and moved very good when I rotated the engine over checking the timing marks. I was also thinking that it could be jetting, but it is spot on with the factory specs right now.

The engine does get very hot, although the fan does not kick on when driving around, only when stopped. Now I have not been out to do a shakedown run yet to see if the head will leak again.

And the engine stays very warm for a long time after shutdown.

Im also thinking that there could be an air pocket somewhere in the cooling system. This happens a lot on automobiles when flushing out coolant and putting in new. ie. waterpump replacement, or thermostat..... you get the idea.

Still scratching my head on this one. And still trying to find a number that these engines are supposed to run at, so I can see where Im at in comparison.

I am kind of nervous that it will. I have been reading too much about 06 te610's with head gasket issues due to a head surface screw up from the factory. I read somewhere , maybe on thumper talk, that there were a significant amount of 06's that had the same issue as mine. So we shall see. I hope I fixed the problem with a new gasket, because I do not want to send it out to get machined.

I will keep you guys updated.

Thanks,
Mark


P.S. BeefCurtain, I will try to get the write up on the forum soon, I am going out of town on friday until the 2nd. BUt if you decide to tear into it and need anything please feel free to get in touch with me. call me if you want also, 712-314-9388

Originally Posted by singletrak

Have you checked the impeller nut? Mine was doing some of the same things, running hotter than I thought it should run.
When I took the water pump apart, the impeller was just floating in the housing. The PO must have overtightened the impeller nut and ended up snapping the end of the shaft off. I had to buy a new cam shaft and impeller

Now it runs cooler like it is supposed to.

Good luck,
Singletrak

[John_L]

Andy, I know it looks and sounds ridiculous but have you ever tried one of those beaded seat covers? I put one on my KLR years ago and made a trip to Alaska from Seattle with it on the stock seat and it worked wonders. The beads allow airflow and for road work are great. Seems a bit counter intuitive but it works. Buy them at an Auto Parts store cheap and cut off what you don't need, just tying the ends as you go.

Originally Posted by awshouse

I'm interested in adding a pad to my seat (Renazco leather). Love the seat, but I'm planning a 5 day road tour and need more cushion. Who has a pad they can recommend?

Thanks, Andy