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Old 07-04-2012, 01:18 PM   #23821
Baroquenride
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Clark Co, WA
Oddometer: 681
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedygee68 View Post
Don't know about my Husqy 610 brothers/sisters, but I love my 610 & hate the stock seat. Freakin brick w/ a tank top wrapped around it, is what it feels like. Gave it to "Seat Concepts" from Hemet, CA. Just picked it up today...WOW, what a relief!! Feels great and now I can ride longer than 2 hrs without getting monkey butt. Now I just gotta figure out how to stretch my legs another 1.5 inches so that I can reach the ground when stopped.
I got mine about a month ago and went on an 8 hour ride yesterday. It made a HUGE difference for me!
I have the same height issues.
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Old 07-04-2012, 01:29 PM   #23822
Baroquenride
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Clark Co, WA
Oddometer: 681
Clutch cable reference

Just for reference, I recently replaced my clutch cable on my 2008 with a Barnett cable- partly because I couldn't see the end down below and the condition of it, and partly because I wanted a spare cable so I wouldn't get stranded out in the woods one day. The bike had about 3500 miles on it and the stock cable looked great with no fraying whatsoever. I wrapped it up next to the Barnett for that 'just-in-case' factor. Btw, the Barnett cable is waaaaaaay smoother!
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Old 07-04-2012, 02:21 PM   #23823
Flashman1
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Tucson
Oddometer: 5,359
Quote:
Originally Posted by baroquenride View Post
Just for reference, I recently replaced my clutch cable on my 2008 with a Barnett cable- partly because I couldn't see the end down below and the condition of it, and partly because I wanted a spare cable so I wouldn't get stranded out in the woods one day. The bike had about 3500 miles on it and the stock cable looked great with no fraying whatsoever. I wrapped it up next to the Barnett for that 'just-in-case' factor. Btw, the Barnett cable is waaaaaaay smoother!
A new cable always feels smoother - until you figure out how to lube the old one on a routine basis.

Not to bad mouth Barnett - but I had 2 of them break at around 2000 miles.
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Old 07-04-2012, 04:49 PM   #23824
Mgizler
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Council Bluffs, IA
Oddometer: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Clean everything completely. Change to 1/4-in fuel hose so you can use the inline filters sold by RMATV.

I went with the "Malcolm Smith" jetting specs and the bike changed from good to awesome.

Idle is controlled by the pilot jet. It either needs cleaning or to be resized.

If the miss is when the throttle is cracked open, it could be your accelerator pump dumping excess fuel. Try a #60 leak jet to smooth that out. The on-off-on throttle stumble cleared right up for me with the #60 leak jet, and response is really crisp.

I put in an R&D remote fuel screw so I can actually reach it without disassembling stuff. Haven't needed to monkey with it much, but at least I can.

Thanks for the advice. I currently have one of the slavens racing fuel screw in so I can get to it without taking the carb off. I think that I am going to get the #60 leak jet and give it a try. Im just stumped as to why it just started, when it was running smooth before. (other than the starting issue)

I will keep you posted on what I find.

Thanks
Mark
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:20 PM   #23825
Countdown
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Location: Carson City/Ridgecrest
Oddometer: 5,284
[QUOTE=sapienwaste;19042147]I'm assuming this is normal on a 2000 610 TE: Had to ride all the way through downtown Boulder pushing it and stomping on first. No good. QUOTE]

The husky lever requires grease on the cable barrel.

Just put it in 1st and hit the little button and it will just take off. I broke one going into Beatty, had to ride all the way back to Olancha with no clutch, not a big problem.

Much harder on my old XR600 with only kick start.
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:08 PM   #23826
JonXX
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Location: OR's hub of wine-tasting soccer moms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Rash View Post
So is 15 volts (+ or -) normal for 07 610?

After I installed my Testsycl battery I checked my voltage output and thought that was a little high, I don't want to cook my new battery.
I've got LED everything except the headlight on my 07, when the headlight burns out I get an overcharge warning. It did this with the OEM lighting too, and it did it with the OEM Varta battery and with the Ballistic that's been in it for about six months now. It hasn't hurt my battery at all that I can tell.
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Old 07-05-2012, 12:52 AM   #23827
JonXX
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I was taught, from the first bike I ever had, to put a layer of grease on oiled foam air filters where they meet the airbox; how many of you do this on your 610s?
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:16 AM   #23828
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonXX View Post
I was taught, from the first bike I ever had, to put a layer of grease on oiled foam air filters where they meet the airbox; how many of you do this on your 610s?
I found that a good spray of the foam oil on the seal surface of the filter does just fine. Practically have to peel it off. No grease required. Always clean inside. If it was a dry paper filter and rubber seal I would grease it lightly.
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:26 AM   #23829
JonXX
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That would sure be a lot less messy. I'll do that next time, thanks.
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:51 AM   #23830
Taranis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgizler View Post
Thanks for the advice. I currently have one of the slavens racing fuel screw in so I can get to it without taking the carb off. I think that I am going to get the #60 leak jet and give it a try. Im just stumped as to why it just started, when it was running smooth before. (other than the starting issue)

I will keep you posted on what I find.

Thanks
Mark
I had a normal adjustable fuel screw on it and still couldn't get my hand in there to adjust it. I have big hands.
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:03 AM   #23831
Road Rash
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Location: The Original OC, in Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Sadly it probably is "normal" for a 610 but it is NOT GOOD for a high tech AGM or Li-ion battery to go much over 14.8.

I'd suggest adding some old-school incandescent lighting as K7 did.
I have some auxiliary lights that I was going to add, maybe that is all I need to do?


Quote:
Originally Posted by K7MDL View Post
It only takes about 16 watts load to keep the voltages down. I used inexepensive dual filament turn signals on all four corners (for sparing) and lighted up the front 8W filaments when the key is on. I have a voltage monitor and it works great now. 2 different regulators tried, both same results.
That sounds pretty cool, do you have a link to where you got your lights?


Quote:
Originally Posted by JonXX View Post
I've got LED everything except the headlight on my 07, when the headlight burns out I get an overcharge warning. It did this with the OEM lighting too, and it did it with the OEM Varta battery and with the Ballistic that's been in it for about six months now. It hasn't hurt my battery at all that I can tell.

If this wasn't a such a high dollar battery I wouldn't be so concerned about it, but I don't want to be replacing this battery anytime soon.
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:23 AM   #23832
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Slight overcharging is a slow death. Worse, I believe the high voltage is behind the many stock speedo failures. Aux lights will only be effective if they are on all the time. I do have a link to the lights I use, will find it later. Western Powersports with long flexible stalks. Something like $15 a pair. Use them front and back, I only use the 8W filaments on the front, ignore them on the back. Despite their low cost, they are really flexible and last a long time. I use them on my TE450 for trail also. You will also find the voltage decreases slightly over 2200 RPM as the engine electronics draws more load.

Western PowerSports Model # 60-1378 Universal Marker Light, Black. $13.78 MSRP.
60-1378COLOR: Black
MARKETING COLOR: Black
DESCRIPTION: COLOR: Black - 3 Wire Front

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Old 07-05-2012, 10:38 AM   #23833
Xcuvator
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Location: Skolls Or
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I haven't had a subframe problem, but haven't really loaded up heavy before. There have been some really nice jobs done beefing up the subframes with pictures on this forum. I have saved some in the past, but now can't seem to find any. Anybody happen to have a link or two to any?
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:14 PM   #23834
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcuvator View Post
I haven't had a subframe problem, but haven't really loaded up heavy before. There have been some really nice jobs done beefing up the subframes with pictures on this forum. I have saved some in the past, but now can't seem to find any. Anybody happen to have a link or two to any?

Using your favorite external search engine you will fair better:
"xymotic subframe weld site:advrider.com" for example in bing or google.

I found this which should be one of the ones you are looking for down the page.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6429&page=1164
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:13 PM   #23835
Xcuvator
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Location: Skolls Or
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K7MDL View Post
Using your favorite external search engine you will fair better:
"xymotic subframe weld site:advrider.com" for example in bing or google.

I found this which should be one of the ones you are looking for down the page.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6429&page=1164
I used AOL Google and got some stuff close, but you found a good one. Thanks!
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