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Old 07-30-2012, 04:49 PM   #24001
huzar
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Location: Bellevue, WA
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Rear shock removal on a 2008

I followed the directions specified in the manual for removing the rear shock. Heck, I even removed one of the linkage bolts. The shock is now free inside the rear subframe/swingarm... however, I'm beginning to suspect that the manual has lied to me and that more work will be required... so... Is there a way to take out the rear shock w/o removing either the rear subframe or the swingarm?
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:04 PM   #24002
huzar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
CH has a member making them for the 610 and 630, you can miss the thread, it's always up on 1st page.


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I'm guessing this is the one?
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/cus...s-ready.23282/

Seems like $145, but I PMd the guy to make sure.
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:08 PM   #24003
drrags
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It's kinda like a puzzle - IIRC you twist the shock as you drop it through the swingarm hole. Kinda like unscrewing it (gawd, I hope I'm remembering the right bike) No need to remove any linkage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
I followed the directions specified in the manual for removing the rear shock. Heck, I even removed one of the linkage bolts. The shock is now free inside the rear subframe/swingarm... however, I'm beginning to suspect that the manual has lied to me and that more work will be required... so... Is there a way to take out the rear shock w/o removing either the rear subframe or the swingarm?
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:17 PM   #24004
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrags View Post
I'm missing it. 1st page where? Vendors?
610/630 thread
Look for the Ken Webb thread.


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1 lunger screwed with this post 07-30-2012 at 05:25 PM
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:19 PM   #24005
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
I followed the directions specified in the manual for removing the rear shock. Heck, I even removed one of the linkage bolts. The shock is now free inside the rear subframe/swingarm... however, I'm beginning to suspect that the manual has lied to me and that more work will be required... so... Is there a way to take out the rear shock w/o removing either the rear subframe or the swingarm?
Yes, pay a suspension tech the extra $25 to do it;)


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Old 07-30-2012, 05:32 PM   #24006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
I'm guessing this is the one?
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/cus...s-ready.23282/

Seems like $145, but I PMd the guy to make sure.
That's the one.


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Old 07-30-2012, 05:37 PM   #24007
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
I followed the directions specified in the manual for removing the rear shock. Heck, I even removed one of the linkage bolts. The shock is now free inside the rear subframe/swingarm... however, I'm beginning to suspect that the manual has lied to me and that more work will be required... so... Is there a way to take out the rear shock w/o removing either the rear subframe or the swingarm?
Remov the front bolt from the lower linkage. Swing the link down and rearward. Lower the shock into the link area. Lean to the left side of the bike and pull out of the left side. Mine is an 2000 model so the shock clears the exhaust. You may need to remove your exhaust.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:29 PM   #24008
K7MDL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
I followed the directions specified in the manual for removing the rear shock. Heck, I even removed one of the linkage bolts. The shock is now free inside the rear subframe/swingarm... however, I'm beginning to suspect that the manual has lied to me and that more work will be required... so... Is there a way to take out the rear shock w/o removing either the rear subframe or the swingarm?
Pulling the subframe bolts out is easy, then just pull back on the subframe as required just enough to get it out. Replace stock subframe bolts with high rade bolts. Might have to clip a few tie wraps. I left my muffler in place. I did pull the linkage bolts at the end though, becuase they should be cleaned and greased. I use waterproof bearing grease. Make sure to reinstall the shock so the lower adjustment screw faces the left side for easy access.

If you are also pulling your front forks and choose to get fork bleeders drilled and recessed in the caps (leaving the vent holes there with screws, make sure to place the new holes where your handle bar cables won't drape across them and vent on the trail.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:30 PM   #24009
huzar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
Yes, pay a suspension tech the extra $25 to do it;)


Life is good!
Not helpful









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Old 07-30-2012, 06:33 PM   #24010
huzar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K7MDL View Post
Pulling the subframe bolts out is easy, then just pull back on the subframe as required just enough to get it out. Replace stock subframe bolts with high rade bolts. Might have to clip a few tie wraps. I left my muffler in place. I did pull the linkage bolts at the end though, becuase they should be cleaned and greased. I use waterproof bearing grease. Make sure to reinstall the shock so the lower adjustment screw faces the left side for easy access.

If you are also pulling your front forks and choose to get fork bleeders drilled and recessed in the caps (leaving the vent holes there with screws, make sure to place the new holes where your handle bar cables won't drape across them and vent on the trail.
Thanks Mike, I'll give pulling the lower subframe bolts out. I was hoping to avoid this, as I think I'll have to drain and remove the big Safari tank to get at them, but the amount of effort I have put into removing the shock without removing the bolts far exceeds the effort it would just have taken to pivot the rear subframe out of the way...

Probably a good idea to replace the bolts with something made of steel rather than cheese
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:40 PM   #24011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
Not helpful









I was only trying to save you the frustration of doing it yourself ;)

I'll make it up to you by PM you Ken Webb's email. He's the custom side stand guy.


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Old 07-30-2012, 06:44 PM   #24012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrags View Post
I'm missing it. 1st page where? Vendors?
PM sent


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Old 07-30-2012, 08:13 PM   #24013
MasterChief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
What's the part # on that one? The one that Jeff put on for me is 8000H0192, which appears to be one for the 250 and 310. I looked at where the magnet goes past the pickup, and there is practically no overlap, so that's the most likely culprit for why I have no speedo. And yeah, it looks like there's no room to drill elsewhere to move the magnet...
Same part number, "Braking" brand.
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:18 PM   #24014
ebrew
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06 610 front rotor

Can anyone give me a part number for a nice floating front rotor " braking or galfer " I can't stand the singing stock front one.
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:52 PM   #24015
huzar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterChief View Post
Same part number, "Braking" brand.
Hmmm... yeah, I have the same brand. Weird. Maybe if I take the pickup wire off the pickup and screw the sensor in a little more, so it is closer to the rotor?
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