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Old 02-11-2013, 05:22 AM   #24751
flyrodder
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Southern Bohemian Alps
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Can't remember if was in here or on ThumperTalk, but there was a long discussion about the alignment of the lower (clutch end) adjustment bracket. On mine, when I removed the airbox, you could see that the end of the cable was not pointed at the end of the lower clutch actuation lever during mid-stroke. Obviously, it can not be perfectly aligned for the entire throw, but it was way off causing the cable to rub significantly on the end of the adjustment threads. With some vice and large crescent-wrench work, I bent the backet so the cable at least pointed at the lever. Made a HUGE difference. Probably 50% lighter at the clutch lever and much smoother; can't feel that grinding any longer.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:42 AM   #24752
BiG DoM
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Joined: Jun 2002
Location: South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrodder View Post
Can't remember if was in here or on ThumperTalk, but there was a long discussion about the alignment of the lower (clutch end) adjustment bracket. On mine, when I removed the airbox, you could see that the end of the cable was not pointed at the end of the lower clutch actuation lever during mid-stroke. Obviously, it can not be perfectly aligned for the entire throw, but it was way off causing the cable to rub significantly on the end of the adjustment threads. With some vice and large crescent-wrench work, I bent the bracket so the cable at least pointed at the lever. Made a HUGE difference. Probably 50% lighter at the clutch lever and much smoother; can't feel that grinding any longer.
Definitely makes a difference - problem can start with where the actuating arm is adjusted for the start of the pull but this cannot be adjusted without dropping the oil and removing the side cover and adjusting the nut on the rod. The plate can be tweaked for better alignment and you can also look at the ferule at the hand lever and slop there - can be taken up quite simply with a small strip of shimstock wound round the tip of the cable which is a thinner OD than the lever ferule (some have actually turned an additional sleeve piece but not really necessary - see on Cafe Husky)
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:04 AM   #24753
h2o_snow
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: North of Boise-vegas, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
My front brakes make noise too. Did from day 1.
+1 here. Other ideas?
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:04 AM   #24754
Flashman1
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Location: Tucson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post
Definitely makes a difference - problem can start with where the actuating arm is adjusted for the start of the pull but this cannot be adjusted without dropping the oil and removing the side cover and adjusting the nut on the rod. The plate can be tweaked for better alignment and you can also look at the ferule at the hand lever and slop there - can be taken up quite simply with a small strip of shimstock wound round the tip of the cable which is a thinner OD than the lever ferule (some have actually turned an additional sleeve piece but not really necessary - see on Cafe Husky)
Shim stock?
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:01 AM   #24755
K7MDL
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Cable alignment

I just loosely tie-wrapped the cable to my hand guard such that the entry to the clutch was straight on. I have HDB guards which happen to be in the perfect location to support the cable this way.

There is a small locating notch in the bottom end bracket. A bit of filing there allows you to improve the alignment at that end by rotating it a couple degrees..
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:16 AM   #24756
nw scout
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: West Linn OR
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Finally got some free time and got my new to me 610 out last weekend.

Hit the Nestucca OHV park in the coast range for some nice single track then back roads to the beach.
Great first ride on the new scoot, and was very impressed with the bike. For a big dual sport it is amazing on the trails







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Old 02-12-2013, 12:03 PM   #24757
BiG DoM
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Location: South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1 View Post
Shim stock?
Any material shims are made of - thin copper worked for me as I could cut it with a pair of heavy duty scissors - simple alu Coke can would do it as well. Thin strip the width of the cable end ferule wrapped around once should do it to allow a tight perindicular entry and no movement that can allow the cable to sit at an angle and rub.
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:25 PM   #24758
Flashman1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post
Any material shims are made of - thin copper worked for me as I could cut it with a pair of heavy duty scissors - simple alu Coke can would do it as well. Thin strip the width of the cable end ferule wrapped around once should do it to allow a tight perindicular entry and no movement that can allow the cable to sit at an angle and rub.
Thanks!
I will try it.
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:08 PM   #24759
His Pistolship
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Idaho or D.C.
Oddometer: 395
Hi All,

My speedo quit working today. Everything else works fine; rpm, gas light, blinkers...

Is there a quick fix to this?

Should I just get a Vapor Tech?

Thanks.

By the way, it is a 2008 Te 610 with 2,300 miles.
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:56 PM   #24760
Xcuvator
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Location: Skolls Or
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Quote:
Originally Posted by His Pistolship View Post
Hi All,

My speedo quit working today. Everything else works fine; rpm, gas light, blinkers...

Is there a quick fix to this?

Should I just get a Vapor Tech?

Thanks.

By the way, it is a 2008 Te 610 with 2,300 miles.
I have not had the problem, but I have heard many times that the speedo can come back from death if you disconnect the battery for a few minutes.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:07 PM   #24761
StolenFant
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Location: Charleston, SC, Elefant free zone
Oddometer: 241
Ditto on the battery disconnect. I think it it's a 3 minute minimum, but thus fix was not for total "computer failure" it was for speedometer failure, tachometer and clock still worked on the computer.

Clint

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Old 02-12-2013, 05:28 PM   #24762
His Pistolship
Kp calm, shoot alfas
 
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Thanks guys. I'll give that a try.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:32 PM   #24763
Indy Unlimited
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Location: Parker, CO
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The speedo cable and connector usually fatigue and break as the cable seperates after following the front brake line.
Check your speedo wiring just right of the dash and the little white connector.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:01 PM   #24764
Xcuvator
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Location: Skolls Or
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Our dash displays are interesting Italian products IMO I have read for years about them and finally had my first go-around with one the other day. My 07 had been apart for several weeks doing sub frame reinforcement and general maintenance with the battery disconnected. When I put the battery back in to check out the electrics,the display would boot up with the key off and the starter would engage. I did some searching and couldn't find or remember anything related. I have followed this thread from the beginning, but that has been awhile.. So I started trying different combinations and found that if I held the mode key down before hooking up the battery and turning the key on that things appeared to be normal.
I am having no success (so far) removing the oil can and wrench though, but I can live with that. Just another day-
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:54 PM   #24765
Hoseman
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My speedo has done that a time or two as well. Check to see if you have lost the magnet that is attached to the front brake rotor. It is attached to the outside of the rotor right where it would pass under the end of the speedo cable and is about the size of a pencil eraser. If it is gone, your speedo will not work.
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