Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

[Dr Klaun]

So, after a season of setting up and getting to know my 610 through various single and multi-day rides, I decided to get the big Safari tank, as I found myself always hunting for the next gas stop (and having issues with many of these small town places not having any...)

It showed up yesterday! (Sorry no pic's yet.)

I'm probably a couple of weeks out on getting this installed, but I was wondering if the in-the-tank foam products would be beneficial with this much fuel sloshing around? Anyone use this stuff? They seem to sell it in various sizes / volumes - how much would the 6.6 gal tank need? Also seems kinda spendy for small bits of foam....

Thanks!

[Indy Unlimited]

I have run G-Zero foam blocks in my 5 gallon IMS tanks for 5 years.
Absolutely worth it. Last forever. No break down or clogging of filters. No loss in volume and no sloshing!

[Dr Klaun]

Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited

I have run G-Zero foam blocks in my 5 gallon IMS tanks for 5 years.
Absolutely worth it. Last forever. No break down or clogging of filters. No loss in volume and no sloshing!

Thanks! Seems per the reviews of this stuff it would be beneficial. Any issues of these blocks around the fuel pump to be concerned with?

Thanks!

[duanew1]

I haven't got my TE610 all sorted out because of subframe repair. I haven't ridden it to see how much the leak is a problem. I have a question about the tank vent. I have a 2006 and I have read many complaints about weeping fuel when overfilled. One solution was an aftermarket fuel cap with the vent installed up high. I was wondering if my idea would work. To install one of these vent valves to the original vent fitting on a hose located high on the handlebars above the level of the tank.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...alve/tank+vent

I have searched but have only found where one person might try this approach but no feedback. This should work shouldn't it? It shouldn't be any different than attaching it to the cap should it?

[nw scout]

First ride today

Boy is thing going to be fun

[JonXX]

Originally Posted by duanew1

I haven't got my TE610 all sorted out because of subframe repair. I haven't ridden it to see how much the leak is a problem. I have a question about the tank vent. I have a 2006 and I have read many complaints about weeping fuel when overfilled. One solution was an aftermarket fuel cap with the vent installed up high. I was wondering if my idea would work. To install one of these vent valves to the original vent fitting on a hose located high on the handlebars above the level of the tank.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...alve/tank+vent

I have searched but have only found where one person might try this approach but no feedback. This should work shouldn't it? It shouldn't be any different than attaching it to the cap should it?

I got tired of filling my tank and having a cup of gas drool all over my 07 so I put these on the tank vent nipples.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...-Cap-Vent-Hose

I routed them forward and up to the bars where I have them clipped to the front brake hose. Pretty much the same thing as you're talking about, but with slightly different implementation.

[duanew1]

Originally Posted by JonXX

I got tired of filling my tank and having a cup of gas drool all over my 07 so I put these on the tank vent nipples.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...-Cap-Vent-Hose

I routed them forward and up to the bars where I have them clipped to the front brake hose. Pretty much the same thing as you're talking about, but with slightly different implementation.

Thanks for the reply and info. I still think that I will use one of those stubby aluminum vent valves ran up high hidden behind the fairing.

[StolenFant]

Originally Posted by StolenFant

Here's a link to the complete thread on CafeHusky.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ins...4/#post-263773

If I'd had any experience with Rekluse Z-start pro before, it would have been a simple, issue free installation. Still I was able to fumble through it in a day including three tuning tweaks of about an hour each. Result, Extremely light clutch disengagement via the clutch lever. Bike sits still at idle, starts rolling immediatly with appliation of throttle. Snapping the throttle open from standing still is pretty much like you would do manually EXCEPT YOU HAVE ALL FINGERS ON THE HANDLE BAR. In a tight woods or rock section, that alone is worth the ALL IN price of $639 (including shipping). Best part is you don't have to suffer the tuning tweaks if you've got a 2009 TE610. The clutch is a STOCK Rekluse part, RMS-856 It's packaged for the Husky WR250 2stroke, plus TC, TE and TXC 450/510 from 2006 - 2010. Rekluse didn't even know the TE610 existed when they released this clutch, and since their market is more geared to motocross and endurocross, the 610 has remained off their radar screen. Despite what I've read elsewhere, they were VERY helpful during the three calls I placed before buying, and they are quite interested in what I learned during the install.

Everything about a heavy bike is easier if you have both hands FULLY on the bars. It actually "feels" lighter in the tight stuff.

Thirty day love it or return it guarantee is hard to argue with... try one.

Here's a little more on the Zstart Pro in 2009 TE610. I LOVE THIS THING!!!!
Sorry I haven't replied sooner. I love the thing! Just ran a long DualSport, and Rekluse made a tremendous difference. I was able to keep all four fingers of left hand on the bars. Lots of square edged roots, ruts, etc. Now that the parts have worn in, the engagement is a little diffferent. My idle is about 1450 normal temp, and the bike will stand still, but as soon as it reads 1500, it is trying to move. This gives engine braking just like stock with the clutch lever out. During the DS event, 80degrees outside, engine was significantly hotter, and idle was closer to 1800; therefore it was very hard to find neutral. Not a big deal as the bike will crank in gear if you pull the clutch in. I geared down for the event 14t front 47t rear (stock is 15-45). With all the 610's engine braking, and gearing that low, the throttle is very touchy in first. A slight roll off is like grabbing the brake, and slight roll-on lunges the bike forward. It's just too much of a seesaw effect, and made it nearly impossible to get a "flow" going in the tight woods. (rather exhausting) Late in day, I quit first gear, left it in second and let the Rekluse apply power to the rear. Even when I locked the rear, and had to stop to negotiate a turn or ditch, I left it in second gear. I'll open the case this week and measure plate end gap to see if I wore much clutch material, but I did check the clutch lever end play at 4000RPM (part of setup), and it hadn't changed. I am going to change the springs again to get a higher engagement RPM. My goal is to get a little less engine braking. An old Enduro rider who's had autoclutches for years said he sets up for near freewheeling at zero throttle, and just uses the rear brake. I like a little engine braking, but his idea has merit. If this was a 250, or maybe a two stroke engine, I would probably set up for complete clutch disengagement to somewhere just above idle, and mount a left hand rear brake.
In summary, I cannot think of a good reason why you would NOT want the Rekluse Z-start Pro on a TE610. You still keep all your friction disks, and if you want to use the clucth lever, it's there (but 80% lighter to pull). I'm still running the C200L5 and C150L2. I'll be testing the C200L6 next.

[xymotic]

Who makes the cool bling brake pedal end?

And thanks StolenFant for the writeup.

[Xcuvator]

Originally Posted by xymotic

Who makes the cool bling brake pedal end?

And thanks StolenFant for the writeup.

Hammerhead?

StolenFant, if you are still engaging where you were, your gap should be close to what it was. You might think about dragging the rear brake to smooth things out in the tight stuff. Maybe a LHRB too.

[SilverBullet]

Originally Posted by StolenFant

...In summary, I cannot think of a good reason why you would NOT want the Rekluse Z-start Pro on a TE610...

I can think of two, $650 cost and it requires fairly regular adjustments and tweaking to keep it working in top shape. It is not a set it and forget it setup. But still a very tempting addition, especially when installed with a LHRB.

_

[StolenFant]

Xymotic, I do need to drop the rear brake pedal some how. I've heard a part from the Honda XR650 has a lower profile clevis that allows this, but haven't confirmed yet. Right now I can't ride with foot over it at present.
Xcuvator, Since the TE doesn't have a cush hub I want you keep the clutch lever for asphalt for my occasional commutes plus all that engine braking really scrubs knobs off the rear fast.
Silver bullet, I'm hoping it won't take much adjustment once I settle on spring configuration. I may even add three Tungsten balls for harder engagement if I move the engagement much higher. The motor didn't have any issues pulling from 1500 in sand, but I do fear a much higher engagement would allow the motor to over work the clutch. I'll keep y'all posted.

Clint

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[BiG DoM]

Brake pedal mod with Honda clevis detailed in Husky Cafe - I did mine with the standard one, also there. You shorten the plunger rod slightly and I removed the top nut above the clevis... read here:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630...-2#post-258784

[K7MDL]

Here is a tip: Grind off the stock rivet on the brake pedal tip and replace it with a countersunk bolt (head facing the clutch) and nylock nut. This lessens the sharp contact against your clutch cover and also makes replacing the tip easier also. I use a KTM replacement brake tip.

[xymotic]

Thanks for the ideas on the brake guys. the vise grip is getting old :)