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Old 02-08-2013, 04:25 PM   #24871
Aey dubya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by His Pistolship View Post
Do tell...
If your bike doesn't break clutch cables I would'nt worry (or do anything) about it. It seems like they either do or they don't. My friend has a dealership and knocked it out for me so If you want to do this I can get the info from him. His opinion was that the 2oz aluminum piece from George was a rip off. (Just the messenger here George fans)
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:29 PM   #24872
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Originally Posted by motopreserve View Post
Even new pads can squeak and cause a headache.
There's truth in what your saying But, 3yrs wailing 2yrs quite, says it's worth a shot.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:50 PM   #24873
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Originally Posted by Aey dubya View Post
There's truth in what your saying But, 3yrs wailing 2yrs quite, says it's worth a shot.
There is no doubt it's worth trying. I'm an audio engineer, just a peep drives me bonkers. I believe what you say about your experience - but as a contrast, I swapped the silent pads on my 35 year old Honda (I wouldn't be shocked if they were original!), and had the worst racket. Disassembled the caliper, regreased the parts, and they were back to perfect. It's a frustrating mess - but one you can monkey with to eventually get rid of....if you're lucky :)
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:00 PM   #24874
Aey dubya
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Originally Posted by His Pistolship View Post
Alright, ordering new pads. "Wailing.." is a good word for it.
I do remember that if I knew I was going to give a ride to a girl I would use light sand paper on the rotor. It would buy you until the next nights bike's rest.
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:01 PM   #24875
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Now that's smart thinkin'
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:38 PM   #24876
ebrew
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Thank you very much

Does the clutch cable run on the inside of the right Radiator near the frame ?
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rear shock bolt 38.5 lbs
fork triple tree bolts 18.4 lbs
rear wheel 100lbs
front wheel 38 lbs
brake caliper 18.5 lbs
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:28 PM   #24877
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Originally Posted by Aey dubya View Post
If your bike doesn't break clutch cables I would'nt worry (or do anything) about it. It seems like they either do or they don't. My friend has a dealership and knocked it out for me so If you want to do this I can get the info from him. His opinion was that the 2oz aluminum piece from George was a rip off. (Just the messenger here George fans)
Go back a few pages and look for the discussion of clutch cable alignment. I still don't have enough miles on my bike to prove the longevity, but super-smooth and proper alignment has to be a lot better than feeling the braid of the cable grind past the end of the housing.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:30 AM   #24878
Aey dubya
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Originally Posted by ebrew View Post
Does the clutch cable run on the inside of the right Radiator near the frame ?
Yup
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:32 AM   #24879
Aey dubya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Go back a few pages and look for the discussion of clutch cable alignment. I still don't have enough miles on my bike to prove the longevity, but super-smooth and proper alignment has to be a lot better than feeling the braid of the cable grind past the end of the housing.
I'm hydraulic now. Issues solved.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:22 AM   #24880
flyrodder
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Can't remember if was in here or on ThumperTalk, but there was a long discussion about the alignment of the lower (clutch end) adjustment bracket. On mine, when I removed the airbox, you could see that the end of the cable was not pointed at the end of the lower clutch actuation lever during mid-stroke. Obviously, it can not be perfectly aligned for the entire throw, but it was way off causing the cable to rub significantly on the end of the adjustment threads. With some vice and large crescent-wrench work, I bent the backet so the cable at least pointed at the lever. Made a HUGE difference. Probably 50% lighter at the clutch lever and much smoother; can't feel that grinding any longer.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:42 AM   #24881
BiG DoM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrodder View Post
Can't remember if was in here or on ThumperTalk, but there was a long discussion about the alignment of the lower (clutch end) adjustment bracket. On mine, when I removed the airbox, you could see that the end of the cable was not pointed at the end of the lower clutch actuation lever during mid-stroke. Obviously, it can not be perfectly aligned for the entire throw, but it was way off causing the cable to rub significantly on the end of the adjustment threads. With some vice and large crescent-wrench work, I bent the bracket so the cable at least pointed at the lever. Made a HUGE difference. Probably 50% lighter at the clutch lever and much smoother; can't feel that grinding any longer.
Definitely makes a difference - problem can start with where the actuating arm is adjusted for the start of the pull but this cannot be adjusted without dropping the oil and removing the side cover and adjusting the nut on the rod. The plate can be tweaked for better alignment and you can also look at the ferule at the hand lever and slop there - can be taken up quite simply with a small strip of shimstock wound round the tip of the cable which is a thinner OD than the lever ferule (some have actually turned an additional sleeve piece but not really necessary - see on Cafe Husky)
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:04 AM   #24882
h2o_snow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
My front brakes make noise too. Did from day 1.
+1 here. Other ideas?
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:04 AM   #24883
Flashman1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post
Definitely makes a difference - problem can start with where the actuating arm is adjusted for the start of the pull but this cannot be adjusted without dropping the oil and removing the side cover and adjusting the nut on the rod. The plate can be tweaked for better alignment and you can also look at the ferule at the hand lever and slop there - can be taken up quite simply with a small strip of shimstock wound round the tip of the cable which is a thinner OD than the lever ferule (some have actually turned an additional sleeve piece but not really necessary - see on Cafe Husky)
Shim stock?
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:01 AM   #24884
K7MDL
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Cable alignment

I just loosely tie-wrapped the cable to my hand guard such that the entry to the clutch was straight on. I have HDB guards which happen to be in the perfect location to support the cable this way.

There is a small locating notch in the bottom end bracket. A bit of filing there allows you to improve the alignment at that end by rotating it a couple degrees..
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:16 AM   #24885
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Finally got some free time and got my new to me 610 out last weekend.

Hit the Nestucca OHV park in the coast range for some nice single track then back roads to the beach.
Great first ride on the new scoot, and was very impressed with the bike. For a big dual sport it is amazing on the trails







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