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Old 02-14-2013, 03:54 PM   #24886
hahmule
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I thought I read somewhere that the Huskys had a weird angle on the spokes, and that there was a special rim to align with the hub and that a simple spoke count would not reveal which rim to use.

Don't have a front hub, but my stock rim is pretty beat up....
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Old 02-14-2013, 03:58 PM   #24887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1 View Post
Thanks!
I will try it.
I was one of the folks who turned a small piece on a lathe for the fix - but I think any shim (or coke can - Pepsi of that's your preference!) would wok just fine. The difference was definitely/immediately noticeable.

Also, the replacement clutch cable (by barnett???) that Hall's will send has a ferrule that seems to be the correct size - I measured it with a caliper and it matched the size of the piece I made.
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:42 AM   #24888
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Originally Posted by hahmule View Post
Bought a spare rear hub on fleabay, does anyone remember what type of Takasago rim it takes? I don't seen any id info on my rims. RK website does not list a model number for huskys.
Email the tech support guys on the RK site. Very helpful to me.

Apparently, the 2000-2005 models may take a different rim than the '06+ models.

Buchanan also has all that stuff dialed.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:34 AM   #24889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hahmule View Post
I thought I read somewhere that the Huskys had a weird angle on the spokes, and that there was a special rim to align with the hub and that a simple spoke count would not reveal which rim to use.

Don't have a front hub, but my stock rim is pretty beat up....
Sorry, I mis read your post.
I also have a complete rear wheel for a 91 model Husky. Check out Halls parts list to learn if the rim or whole wheel would work on your bike. This wheel is a solid hub, no cush drive but is the same width as my 2000 610's rear wheel that has cush drive.
I think the wierd spoke angle refers to the old drum brake wheels because the drum is large and the spokes on the brake side are short.
Soory to be confussing.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:24 PM   #24890
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Thanks..

For your replies, I will email RK first, and failing that, I will prolly send it to Buchanans or Woody's.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:36 PM   #24891
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Originally Posted by hahmule View Post
For your replies, I will email RK first, and failing that, I will prolly send it to Buchanans or Woody's.

This guy is close to you:

Dave Moore Wheel Service
(760) 240-3543
9383 Buena Vista Street
Apple Vally, Calf. 92308

Dave has done several wheels, solid and spoke, for me and always done a stellar job.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:43 AM   #24892
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In need of new clutch perch/lever and cable

Hey guy's i'm looking for a new clutch perch/lever and cable for my 08 610. Is there any aftermarket setup's available that y'all might recomend or am i better off going for genuine items?. Hav'nt had much luck finding any aftermarket perch/levers as yet but found some cables. Thought i better get some feedback on what to use before i go ordering genuine parts. Please help, my baby is in hybernation with a broken cable and i'm having withdrawalls.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:06 AM   #24893
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I used Motion Pro b/c slightly longer and braid slides relatively well through the tight bends required. Guy who did my clutch spring washers said the Barnett was his favorite. THE laziest way to oil a new cable is to cut a small hole in corner of a Ziploc. Use rubber bands to seal it well. Find the heaviest gear oil you can. Fill the bag and hang it in the sun. Heating the oil can speed the process, but hours in the sun work. You shouldn't need to pull the inner cable up; the oil will find it's way. Once oil is dripping the bottom, you're done.

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Old 02-17-2013, 09:13 AM   #24894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StolenFant View Post
I used Motion Pro b/c slightly longer and braid slides relatively well through the tight bends required. Guy who did my clutch spring washers said the Barnett was his favorite. THE laziest way to oil a new cable is to cut a small hole in corner of a Ziploc. Use rubber bands to seal it well. Find the heaviest gear oil you can. Fill the bag and hang it in the sun. Heating the oil can speed the process, but hours in the sun work. You shouldn't need to pull the inner cable up; the oil will find it's way. Once oil is dripping the bottom, you're done.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
If I was using this method, I would not use gear oil. It has additives that are good for gears, but it's super stinky. The viscosity is actually not that different than motor oil, which is what I'd use instead. Much less stinky. And with this method, it's going to continue to leak oil out the bottom of the cable for some time, so you'd be better off not having that be the stinky stuff.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:35 PM   #24895
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What are you guys using for engine oil? The only 10W60 I can find locally is Motorex at $20 a liter. I talked to Spectro rep at IMS in NYC and they have it, but local dealers dont carry it. THX
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:28 PM   #24896
fritzcoinc
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Originally Posted by Drewha View Post
What are you guys using for engine oil? The only 10W60 I can find locally is Motorex at $20 a liter. I talked to Spectro rep at IMS in NYC and they have it, but local dealers dont carry it. THX
Shell 5W-40 Syn Rotella. $20 a gallon at Wall World
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:35 AM   #24897
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I have a set of black radiator guards that I got with my bike when I bought it. They are not the Unibiker (?), any idea's of what brand they may be?

Singletrak
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:47 AM   #24898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singletrak View Post
I have a set of black radiator guards that I got with my bike when I bought it. They are not the Unibiker (?), any idea's of what brand they may be?

Singletrak
How about a photo?
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:42 AM   #24899
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How about a photo?
I would love to include photo, just can't seem to add photo's on this site.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:46 AM   #24900
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Originally Posted by singletrak View Post
I would love to include photo, just can't seem to add photo's on this site.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919
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