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Old 10-20-2009, 11:44 AM   #13846
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoder
Hi Mike and welcome to the show!
The IMS comes with the cap closed like you see. I think some have drilled theirs out but I just bought a new cap. Most bike shops have them and they're cheap. My vent tube is only about 18" long and runs between the wiring harness and the frame. Nothing special it just points at the ground.
Having twice spilled gas all over the ground form the internal vent, I am now sensitized to the possibilities that your shorter vent line exiting over the front area of the engoine could drip onto your hot exhaust headers and cause bad things to happen, for example, could it run down the back of your front fender?. I think some dirt bikes have a hole though the steering tube and through the front fender so it drips onto the tire, other setups I have seen run the hose out the handle bar on one side. Just a thought.

I will drill it out and test the caps to see if it really works or not. Just finished cutting off 3/8" of the new quieter LV3 insert to fit under my spark screen. New hacksaw blades make a difference.

Thanks!

Update: Drilled out the IMS vent nib. Had to go down almost 1" to break into the interior of the cap. Tested with a syringe and there is free flow both directions. I think the 4 holes in the bottom of the cap are open to the interior space and now with the new hole in the nib, air flows unobstructed out the vent nib. No diaphragms, checks valves or anything in the cap. Tip it over, gas will flow out. Will probably persue simple check valve and anti-siphon options next. At least no more vacuum drawn in the tank for now.

- Mike

K7MDL screwed with this post 10-20-2009 at 02:28 PM
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Old 10-20-2009, 11:45 AM   #13847
Hoder
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Buckley, Washington
Oddometer: 1,019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebat
its a 2009 model with 600km on the clock
I have lower the back shock (middle) and set the shocks softer in front (9 clicks from soft side) and the back (9 clicks from soft side).
still no improvement.
My bike has always tracked perfectly no matter what tire or pressure I run.
(I've had rear Karoo, MT21 and Teraflex, front Karoo, MT21 and Scorpion Pro)
I've also got the forks one notch up in the triples.
I decided one day to screw out EVERY adjuster as a base line and it made the bike very unstable. No real wobble but it sure felt like it wanted to and was hard to keep in a straight line.
I (like everyone) can only suggest some things to try:
Put the suspension settings back to stock.
Find some place with some gnarly bumps, lube the fork tubes and give them a beating. (this softened mine up nicely and took the stickiness out)
After you beat the suspension a while re-check your sag. (though mine tracked fine with the factory pre-load setting)
Measure from the center of the front axle to a point on the swingarm (not the rear axle 'cause we're all different) and post your results. Maybe a few of us can compare.
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Old 10-20-2009, 01:23 PM   #13848
Flashman1
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Tucson
Oddometer: 5,357
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoder
My bike has always tracked perfectly no matter what tire or pressure I run.
(I've had rear Karoo, MT21 and Teraflex, front Karoo, MT21 and Scorpion Pro)
+1
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Old 10-20-2009, 01:45 PM   #13849
Bluebat
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: South Africa
Oddometer: 11
Thanks Hoder
I live on a smallholding just outside of town(7km gravel road) so I have done about 400km on a very badly corrugated road. I think the shocks should have been better by now if they needed to be breaked in.
I have just ride a X-challenge which has basically the same front forks and wheels, at 140 km/h I could shake the steering and nothing... it is as stable as any road bike.
I tried to push the husky past the wobble, but at 120km/h I almost lost control and had to slow down.
My opinion is that there are something wrong with the shocks... to much play of something, so I will have the dealer take a look at it on Thuesday.
Will let you know what they say
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Old 10-20-2009, 04:08 PM   #13850
Stroker Ace
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: So. Cal.
Oddometer: 123
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1
Do you have the stock head light? My 07 did this also and I have read of others with the problem. It seems the system is over charging. Run your headlight on high beam and see if it helps.

My problem went away when I went to an after market headlight that required more wattage.
They will also do it as soon as the headlight bulb burns out!!!! Which mine did several times until I changed to an aftermarket light. There's nothing wrong with your bike, put a good light on it (they need it anyway) and your done.
Happy Trails...
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Old 10-20-2009, 04:19 PM   #13851
Flashman1
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Tucson
Oddometer: 5,357
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stroker Ace
They will also do it as soon as the headlight bulb burns out!!!! Which mine did several times until I changed to an aftermarket light. There's nothing wrong with your bike, put a good light on it (they need it anyway) and your done.
Happy Trails...
Yeah - I like the description someone said of the TE610 headlight - a match held in front of tinfoil.

I put a Baja designs one on - just the basic enduro light and never looked back.
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Old 10-20-2009, 04:34 PM   #13852
Flashman1
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Location: Tucson
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Northern Az
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Old 10-20-2009, 04:52 PM   #13853
Boatman
Ride more, BS less!
 
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Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Petersburg, NY and Woodbridge, VA
Oddometer: 10,022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yossarian™
The battery icon (picture) flashes when the battery voltage is not in the planned limits.

One thing you can check, is when you turn on the ignition, with the display in the default mode (meaning, total odometer miles showing). The left side bar graph will be a representation of the battery level.

What is the level of your bar graph when turning on the ignition?

Another check you can make. With the engine warm and turning at least 3000 RPM, check the battery voltage at the terminals. Voltage should be in the range of 12.5 - 15.1 V.

I get the same thing that WIthumper gets quite often. When it first happened I thought there was something wrong, the bike was brand new. I checked all the stuff , voltages and grounds and found nothing wrong. Being that the MAX was blinking at the same time I think it means that that the battery is fully charged but this is only a guess. Mine still does it to this day,,, doesn't matter whether I'm running fully rally lighting AND heated gear or nothing at all.

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Hi/low beam conversions for: Trail Tech, Baja Designs
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Old 10-20-2009, 05:01 PM   #13854
brisendines
Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by LostRider
Anyone looking for a Leo Vince titanium exhaust pipe for the SM check out this post in the Flea Market.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=517160
PM Sent
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Old 10-20-2009, 06:15 PM   #13855
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatman
I get the same thing that WIthumper gets quite often. When it first happened I thought there was something wrong, the bike was brand new. I checked all the stuff , voltages and grounds and found nothing wrong. Being that the MAX was blinking at the same time I think it means that that the battery is fully charged but this is only a guess. Mine still does it to this day,,, doesn't matter whether I'm running fully rally lighting AND heated gear or nothing at all.

If the voltage measurements were in the proper range when it blinked, then I would have to suspect the wiring to the computer has issues. perhaps intermittent, or the computer itself.

The stock light is only 35W on the TE versus the more common 55/65W lamps on the SM610 and other bikes. The regulator has to work extra hard to dump off the juice from the stator. The more load, the less work it has to do to limit the voltage.

The downside is the more current in the wires, the more voltage drop causing increased wire heating and reduces voltage to your loads (lights, heated vest, GPS) over the stock small guage wiring commonly used. That is why it is popular to install dedicated heavy cabling from the lights to the battery via a fuse and relay near the battery. Operate the relay off your tail ligt power or other convenient switch DC wire. More voltage, brighter lights, and less current passing through your ignition switch, increasing reliability there also. It is also easy to control the relay with a very small remote switch to turn off your headlights if needed (off road) to run other loads on power limited bikes. Or not kill the battery so fast if having trouble starting (like after dumping the bike and having flooded carbs). Ever try push starting a KTM 950 in the middle of a sandy desert area?

- Mike
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Old 10-20-2009, 07:20 PM   #13856
Boatman
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Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Petersburg, NY and Woodbridge, VA
Oddometer: 10,022
Quote:
Originally Posted by K7MDL
If the voltage measurements were in the proper range when it blinked, then I would have to suspect the wiring to the computer has issues. perhaps intermittent, or the computer itself.

The stock light is only 35W on the TE versus the more common 55/65W lamps on the SM610 and other bikes. The regulator has to work extra hard to dump off the juice from the stator. The more load, the less work it has to do to limit the voltage.

The downside is the more current in the wires, the more voltage drop causing increased wire heating and reduces voltage to your loads (lights, heated vest, GPS) over the stock small guage wiring commonly used. That is why it is popular to install dedicated heavy cabling from the lights to the battery via a fuse and relay near the battery. Operate the relay off your tail ligt power or other convenient switch DC wire. More voltage, brighter lights, and less current passing through your ignition switch, increasing reliability there also. It is also easy to control the relay with a very small remote switch to turn off your headlights if needed (off road) to run other loads on power limited bikes. Or not kill the battery so fast if having trouble starting (like after dumping the bike and having flooded carbs). Ever try push starting a KTM 950 in the middle of a sandy desert area?

- Mike

I guess it's a computer problem then from what you are saying.

All of my acessories including the rally lighting (8" racelight and 2 HIDS, 90w total) are wired completely independent of the bike.
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Hi/low beam conversions for: Trail Tech, Baja Designs
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:34 PM   #13857
WIthumper
The 610 guy
 
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Milton, WI
Oddometer: 210
Thanks everyone for jumping in! I think I got it figured out.

I took some measurements across the battery terminals to get some base line measurements and did some hunting from there.

Ignition switch off: 12.74 volts
Ignition switch on: 12.28 volts
Bike running at 1200 rpm: 15.12 volts
Bike running at 3400 rpm: 14.91 volts

While taking voltage readings with the bike running, I noticed that battery symbol and MAX blinking on the display.

Next, I turned on the high beams. The MAX and battery icons went away. I took a peak at the head light and noticed that the only light that was on was the little bulb in the headlight assembly. The bigger bulb was not lit up.

When I checked out the three connectors that plug into the back of the headlight assembly, I noticed that the blue wire was not seated properly. I just plugged it back in again and it the battery icon and MAX items went away.

For what it may be worth, I took some additional measurements after plugging in the blue wire back into the headlight assembly. This is what I came up with:

Bike running at 1400 rpm: 14.96 volts
Bike running at 3400 rpm: 14.61 volts
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:46 PM   #13858
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatman
I guess it's a computer problem then from what you are saying.

All of my acessories including the rally lighting (8" racelight and 2 HIDS, 90w total) are wired completely independent of the bike.
It does start to get harder to diagnose, but try to measure the voltage at the wire lead going into the computer itself. Have to figure out which one it is watching for its measurement.

You can pull back the rubber boot on the backside connector and stick a voltmeter tip onto the pins from what I recall playing with it the other day.

If I were to guess, it would be pin 14 the red wire that supplies the power to the computer and likely the one that it is monitoring, though I do not know. With the key on but engine off, the left display bar graph shows some relative level, but your issues seem to be in operation so that is not much help.

I would not rule out a battery problem. A battery that is going south can fail to accept a charge and cause the load on the system to decrease making the voltage go higher. If it was marginal, then it might be enough to start normally, but leave you hanging if things got tough. A battery also acts as a voltage filter of sorts, helping smooth out the instant peaks and dips since it is a slow chemical-based device.
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Old 10-20-2009, 09:22 PM   #13859
Countdown
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Carson City/Ridgecrest
Oddometer: 5,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by WIthumper
I took some measurements across the battery terminals to get some base line measurements and did some hunting from there.

Ignition switch off: 12.74 volts
Ignition switch on: 12.28 volts
Bike running at 1200 rpm: 15.12 volts
Bike running at 3400 rpm: 14.91 volts
A 1/2 volt drop is a lot for that small load, what does it go to with starter cranking? Could be high resistance batery which would also explain the high charging voltage (15.12 is quite high, 14.7 is more normal).
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Old 10-21-2009, 05:10 AM   #13860
Boatman
Ride more, BS less!
 
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Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Petersburg, NY and Woodbridge, VA
Oddometer: 10,022
Quote:
Originally Posted by K7MDL
It does start to get harder to diagnose, but try to measure the voltage at the wire lead going into the computer itself. Have to figure out which one it is watching for its measurement.

You can pull back the rubber boot on the backside connector and stick a voltmeter tip onto the pins from what I recall playing with it the other day.

If I were to guess, it would be pin 14 the red wire that supplies the power to the computer and likely the one that it is monitoring, though I do not know. With the key on but engine off, the left display bar graph shows some relative level, but your issues seem to be in operation so that is not much help.

I would not rule out a battery problem. A battery that is going south can fail to accept a charge and cause the load on the system to decrease making the voltage go higher. If it was marginal, then it might be enough to start normally, but leave you hanging if things got tough. A battery also acts as a voltage filter of sorts, helping smooth out the instant peaks and dips since it is a slow chemical-based device.

I'll have to check that when I get the bike back, our team mechanic has it now doing some carb work.

Like I said, it's done this since day one and the battery was replaced when I picked it up because it wouldn't start the bike when I picked it up.
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Hi/low beam conversions for: Trail Tech, Baja Designs
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