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Old 10-29-2009, 08:36 AM   #13996
LostRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motometal
I'm with XYMotic. Mine is carbed and I'm getting 35-40. I would speculate in order to get the jetting lean enough to get 60 MPG the bike would have no throttle response and less overall power, and it would probably be hard on it (run hot). I spent a fair amount of time trying different jetting, I didn't just skip a bunch of sizes and end up "way rich", so I'm fairly confident I'm at least close to what the bike "wants".

It baffles me that two of the same bikes could get that much different mileage and both run at least decently.

To make it even more baffling, I went one tooth UP on the countershaft!
Yep.... 35-40 mpg on my 07 carb with JD Jet Kit and Leo Vince Exhaust. I've always chalked it up to my wrist and the fact that I'm pushing it close to the rev limiter in almost every gear for my crapy mpg. One time I was I was following a buddy who broke his handle bars so we had to ride home real slow, I was in the 50 mpg neighborhood. I can't ride that way so I'll never see that kind of mpg again.


So, if you ride your bike hard and fast pushing it the the rev limiter, your MPG is going to suck.... Slow down and smell the roses your MPG is going to..... Fuck that who wants to smell roses anyway, ride hard and get a bigger tank!!
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:37 AM   #13997
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Hi everyone.
I didn't get any reply on the forks thread, so I am just moving my post over to this thread.

I have some trouble with my new 09 te610 not handling correctly and wobbling at around 110km/h.
I spoke to my dealer on Thursday about the problem, he checked everything he could think of and then basically told that the stock Karoo's were not design for high speeds and that I should get a road tyre.(so what is the idea of a Dual Purpose bike, with Dot approved Dual Propose tyres that can't go over 110km/h) .Then I could have bought a 250 for a lot less .....
I had the same tyres on my 640 Adv and was doing 150km/h with no problems.
I found a bit of play (side ways) on the forks, but I didn't know if it was suppose to be like that (i'm not a expert on forks), so I downloaded the Marzocchi manual and started to take the forks apart.
I couldn't find anything that looked suspicious. Except that the manual said that there should be some adhesive tape under the upper bush. (This will open the upper bush, giving a tighter fit and would probably stop some of the play on the forks)
I put 5wt oil in the shock and filled it to 100mm from the top.

The bike handled a lot better! Although not completely satisfied, but I could go to 130km/h before the shakes started.
On washboard I can go about 90 before the head start jumping around. (Previously 70 to 80)
The spring set seems to be fine. On more technical stuff and jumps the shocks are amassing.
So my next step is to install the comp adjusters and better valves.

Does anyone have the part numbers for the 08-09 comp adjusters, and are the pre 08 fork valves the same as the 08 -09 valves?
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:46 AM   #13998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc
And what carb. does an 07 have?
My 07 has a keihin fcr pumper carb.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:02 AM   #13999
nomadb
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Cool2

Interesting findings.
Does anybody know what is the original valu of the fluid in the shock absorbers (10W?).

On hot climate I have found out that the 5W oil was just not dampening on my previous bikes. I was rather happy with 10W. And changed the fork fluid every other year, that alone was the best for road handling of the bikes.

Now Bluebat is happy with 5W fluid. Considering it is winter a less viscous (did I get this word right) should be helpfull. Where do you live? Is it a colder climate?

Myself on the other hand with a 08 TE do not notice any wobling. Unless I load the bike too heavy on the back.
Regards

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebat
Hi everyone.
I didn't get any reply on the forks thread, so I am just moving my post over to this thread.

I have some trouble with my new 09 te610 not handling correctly and wobbling at around 110km/h.
I spoke to my dealer on Thursday about the problem, he checked everything he could think of and then basically told that the stock Karoo's were not design for high speeds and that I should get a road tyre.(so what is the idea of a Dual Purpose bike, with Dot approved Dual Propose tyres that can't go over 110km/h) .Then I could have bought a 250 for a lot less .....
I had the same tyres on my 640 Adv and was doing 150km/h with no problems.
I found a bit of play (side ways) on the forks, but I didn't know if it was suppose to be like that (i'm not a expert on forks), so I downloaded the Marzocchi manual and started to take the forks apart.
I couldn't find anything that looked suspicious. Except that the manual said that there should be some adhesive tape under the upper bush. (This will open the upper bush, giving a tighter fit and would probably stop some of the play on the forks)
I put 5wt oil in the shock and filled it to 100mm from the top.

The bike handled a lot better! Although not completely satisfied, but I could go to 130km/h before the shakes started.
On washboard I can go about 90 before the head start jumping around. (Previously 70 to 80)
The spring set seems to be fine. On more technical stuff and jumps the shocks are amassing.
So my next step is to install the comp adjusters and better valves.

Does anyone have the part numbers for the 08-09 comp adjusters, and are the pre 08 fork valves the same as the 08 -09 valves?
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:17 AM   #14000
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Interesting findings.
"Does anybody know what is the original valu of the fluid in the shock absorbers (10W?).

On hot climate I have found out that the 5W oil was just not dampening on my previous bikes. I was rather happy with 10W. And changed the fork fluid every other year, that alone was the best for road handling of the bikes.

Now Bluebat is happy with 5W fluid. Considering it is winter a less viscous (did I get this word right) should be helpfull. Where do you live? Is it a colder climate?

Myself on the other hand with a 08 TE do not notice any wobling. Unless I load the bike too heavy on the back.
Regards"

Yes, viscous, I think in South Africa it is the beginning of the warm season?
My owners manual calls for 7.5WT oil so I would think that is what they come with.

I have been told by Les at LTR that 5WT is too light for good dampening.
If there are places in South Africa to ride that have sub freezing temperatures 5WT might be OK. I think there is a tendency to put in light oil in the 610 forks to try to soften them up, when what they need is revalving and lighter springs, unless the rider weighs 250 or more and carries a lot of gear or passenger.

Bluebat, Have you checked your rear race sag and steering head bearing preload? Also wheel alignment comes to mind.
I don't recall any tape to shim the slider bushing, but tape is used to compress the bushing during assembly.
The compression valves are the same and I thought there was a link to Marzocchi parts PDF on the 610 specific sticky of Buffalodans for the PNs.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:29 AM   #14001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic
well, I replaced my broken clutch cable with a barnett.
The solid tube on the bottom interferes with the rear brake reservoir.
Are you using bar risers? Mine misses the reservoir by about 1/2".
Check your routing against the pics in my gallery. You can see here how mine is slightly turned down:



I tried some different routings at the bars (around the clamp) and like you it hit the reservoir.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:53 AM   #14002
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The other thing that helps is to move the reservoir to the inside of the tab it mounts on.
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:22 AM   #14003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1
What pipe do you run?
Leo Vince X3 Muffler with sparky. Stock header.
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Old 10-29-2009, 10:58 AM   #14004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited
Leo Vince X3 Muffler with sparky. Stock header.
What elevation you running at.

I have same bike and pipe and am running a 180 main - forgot what the pilot is.

I ride between 2000 ft up to 10,000 with this set up.
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:09 AM   #14005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoder
Are you using bar risers? Mine misses the reservoir by about 1/2".
Check your routing against the pics in my gallery. You can see here how mine is slightly turned down:



I tried some different routings at the bars (around the clamp) and like you it hit the reservoir.
I'm talking bout the rear res on the airbox. It comes of the bracket, there's no way to route it differently there

Hey, what's the record for a broken clutch cable? I took it on a test ride and the cable snapped on about the third pull 20 yards out of my driveway.
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:06 PM   #14006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic
I'm talking bout the rear res on the airbox. It comes of the bracket, there's no way to route it differently there
That's what I'm talking about too. Routing the cable around the bar clamps pulled it tight at the bottom so it didn't swoop down and away from the rear reservoir. Going around the clamps also put a less than optimal angle on the cable at the lever.
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Old 10-29-2009, 01:44 PM   #14007
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Yes, its quite warm here at the moment, but the shocks seems to work a bit faster.
I want to revalve the forks with Racetech Goldvalves, but they only have specks on the 1999 te610. I wasn't sure if the valves were the same.

I have checked the head bearings and everything else I could think of. My local Husky dealer has also checked.
Alignment looks fine and I have played around with the back shock as well.

I have put a screen on and that also helped. I think it puts more weight on the front when driving at highway speeds.
But all this mods doesn't solve the problem, it only hides it.
I don't do a lot of long distance trips (mostly single track roads and playing in the dunes, for witch the suspension is grate), but I want the bike to be able to do longer trips. Thats why I bought a dual Purpose bike.

I will try putting on more road going tires , but I can't really see why a balanced dual purpose tire would give such a wobble.
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Old 10-29-2009, 03:28 PM   #14008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1
What elevation you running at.

I have same bike and pipe and am running a 180 main - forgot what the pilot is.

I ride between 2000 ft up to 10,000 with this set up.
I run 5,000 feet to 13,000. feet and 35 degrees to 90 degrees with the same jetting. Not ideal at the extremes but also not worth rejetting IMO.
The JD red needle lets you lower the main since it is richer than the stock needle.
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:30 PM   #14009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic
Hey, what's the record for a broken clutch cable? I took it on a test ride and the cable snapped on about the third pull 20 yards out of my driveway.

There is one in this thread that didn't even get off the sidestand, snapped on the test pull.

That sucks, dude!!!

You guys need to call George everyday and express interest in him finishing the hyd clutch kit.
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:27 PM   #14010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebat
Yes, its quite warm here at the moment, but the shocks seems to work a bit faster.
I want to revalve the forks with Racetech Goldvalves, but they only have specks on the 1999 te610. I wasn't sure if the valves were the same.

I have checked the head bearings and everything else I could think of. My local Husky dealer has also checked.
Alignment looks fine and I have played around with the back shock as well.

I have put a screen on and that also helped. I think it puts more weight on the front when driving at highway speeds.
But all this mods doesn't solve the problem, it only hides it.
I don't do a lot of long distance trips (mostly single track roads and playing in the dunes, for witch the suspension is grate), but I want the bike to be able to do longer trips. Thats why I bought a dual Purpose bike.

I will try putting on more road going tires , but I can't really see why a balanced dual purpose tire would give such a wobble.
What is your weight? I went a little lighter on the springs front and rear, cured the wobble for me up to max speed. IIRC the fork oil is 7.5 stock.
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