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Old 12-22-2014, 08:27 AM   #1
IrishPaul OP
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Talking Suzuki DR 650 Won't start

Hi there
I know there has been a similar thread and I have read it all twice but seemed ambiguous how the problem was resolved.
I felt sorry for an old and tired Suzuki DR (non running) and decided to invest some calories in the project. It won't start. The bike has decent compression, new plugs that are getting petrol. Battery charged, and great blue sparks. The po put a brand new carb on it. I adjusted the tappids, bike on TDC (on the right stroke), changed petrol just in case. Tried pushing, dragging, kicking it but not so much as a fart. NOT 1!! Starting fluid in the carb, warming plugs, without luck. I got a manual and checked the cam timing and at the magneto side to see if it was in the right place. Seems bang on. Had it at 2 different shops. They are also stumped. The problem is I don't know anything about the history of the bike. It has ridden 40k and is from 91. I know it's mental taking on such a project, but I live in Demark and bikes and cars cost twice what they are anywhere else. I have the winter to get her back to rideable for spring 2015.
Any ideas bike bandits??
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Old 12-22-2014, 08:41 AM   #2
ntm1973
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You said new plugs but did you check to see if it has spark?

What is the float bowl height set at?

What is the condition of the air filter?

Did you make sure the valves are in spec?

There isn't much to a dr650. I would say the above 4 are ground zero before you start doing anything else.
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:32 PM   #3
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so... makes spark, has compression, fuel to the plugs.....

only thing I can think of is the spark isn't happening at the right time. you should be able to put an inductive timing light on it and see... there should be marks on the rotor (or you make some)

is there any history or prior work being done on the engine?
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:53 PM   #4
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it sounds to me like the issue might be compression... It sounds like you know about spark, and the starting fluid would identify any fuel delivery issues.

You say decent compression, did you put a compression tester to it or are you going off sound or force to turn it by hand?

If you havent done so, do a compression test. All the issues you are describing sound like you might have a bent valve. Which is not uncommon with a dual sport bike whether from drowning it or otherwise. I hydro-locked my motor once because that damn vacuum petcock suzuki loves to use leaked a bunch of gas into my motor. Cranked the thing over (or lack there of) with the starter button a few times the next day and bent my intake valves.
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Old 12-22-2014, 04:27 PM   #5
rollingblock
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Maybe carry out a cylinder leakage test. My money would be on a lack of compression as well.
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Old Yesterday, 02:25 AM   #6
IrishPaul OP
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Wicked

Hi & thanks for the replies. The compression has only been checked with my thumb but seems definitely enough. The problem is I really have no history of the bike. So it could be anything really. I imagine several owners have given up on it and sold it on as the last reg. date on the paper is 2011. I didn't think about the float height as the petrol was getting into the cylinder. I'll check that, maybe put the original carb on too. The airbox was cut and a mx filter put on. I washed, dried and oiled it (as I do a billion times in mx). I think the point with the timing is the right track. But how do I go about that? I have checked the marks on the sprockets against the chrome links on the chains at the rotor side and the lines are parallel on the other side when its at TDC. Luckily I am a patient man.
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Old Yesterday, 02:26 AM   #7
IrishPaul OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollingblock View Post
Maybe carry out a cylinder leakage test. My money would be on a lack of compression as well.
The guy I bought it off said that was done. But that may not be the case. I think I'll get a shop to do that and measure compression. Thanks for that idea.
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Old Yesterday, 08:12 AM   #8
Collarbone
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Compression test would be a good start. Maybe getting to much gas, or timing 180 out? Just throwing things out there and the advise is probably worth what your paying for it.
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Old Yesterday, 09:32 AM   #9
IrishPaul OP
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Yes I am definitely thinking the timing is a half turn out.. defintely thinking that too.. What is the easiest way of putting it right?
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Old Yesterday, 09:43 AM   #10
trailrider383
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Two shops have looked at it and are stumped? If a shop can't even do a simple thing like "make an engine run" they need to close the doors.
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Old Yesterday, 12:11 PM   #11
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Just curious as to what year DR do you have ? I think the timing marks for the cam could be different from an early nineties model to the later newer model.
In saying that the cam timing should never change unless it has been tampered with, because if it was running and the just stopped, cam timing should not move.
And even if you checked valve clearance doesn't mean the valves are sealing, bent valve would cause that valve to have a large clearance, normally a dead giveaway. Could be a burnt out or even cracked exhaust valve due to running too lean or having not enough clearance.
Have to agree it needs a compression check, but make sure the guys doing it know the specs from Suzuki because of the auto decompressor will give a lower reading than say 170 psi which is a fairly normal reading.
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Old Yesterday, 01:14 PM   #12
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I don't know the DR well but it should have a timing mark. it will have a TDC mark. you probably know the drill.... feel through the spark plug hole as you rotate the engine to TDC (compression) and get the piston to the top of the stroke. the mark on the rotor should be in the window (very close... hard to be exact by the feel method). be sure it is the TDC mark and not an ignition mark. and, the intake valve lobes pointing aft, exhaust valve lobes pointing forward, all valves closed. if it does that, the rotor is probably good.

if you want to check the ignition timing, roll the engine backwards from TDC about 30 degrees... there should be a mark somewhere. if not, make one. in fact make several along the arc back to TDC. connect an inductive timing light and aim it at the inspection hole. it will flash when the spark plug fires. you should be able to see the marks indicating it is firing before TDC. the ignition module changes the degree, so it might only be 5 or 10 degrees at cranking speed... 20-25 might be ok... it shouldn't be -10 or +40
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Old Yesterday, 01:58 PM   #13
PNWRR
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Check blinker fluid as well. That gets missed a lot.

You'd think you'd still get some farts and pops even if the timing is off. Best of luck.
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Old Yesterday, 04:38 PM   #14
Beezer
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depends on how far off & which way. I've seen a slipped rotor that would make spark & not a pop. also a out of time cam gears.... same thing
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