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Old 08-30-2006, 09:54 PM   #31
COBAUM OP
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The KLR uses a different plug. And the wiring schematic is different. Figured I'd wait because if I fry my KLR CDI my season is over. Heading out to Crested Butte this weekend for some pass riding. Don't want to screw that up.
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Old 08-31-2006, 07:18 AM   #32
sattara
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Eh? "C" and "R" have different CDI's

Quote:
Originally Posted by COBAUM
Hi, sattara. I saw that. Not the same part. My wiring harness has a 2-wire connector and a 6-wire connector. The ebay one is a three connectors. Apparently they used a couple of different CDIs over the years. Unfortunately, the part number on mine was worn off, so I do not have it. Guess I'll just keep my eye on ebay. Hate to wait cause I'm so close.
My mistake, I didn't look at the part. The C has two connectors with 8 conductors. The R has three connectors and 7 wires - They won't interchange - the R is an AC part the C is DC.
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Old 09-01-2006, 04:26 PM   #33
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Few shots of rather modifications on my KLX




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Old 09-04-2006, 08:02 AM   #34
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And my tank off course
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Old 09-04-2006, 09:23 AM   #35
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The KLR trip was a bust. That thing is so heavy it is like riding a cow. I crashed it on a slow speed approach. Very minor drop, but it broke the bolts that attach the rear frame from the front frame. Had to ride 70 miles standing up to get to a harware store to better fix it. I can't wait to get the KLX on the road. I sure welcome the lower weight.
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Old 09-05-2006, 01:24 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COBAUM
The KLR trip was a bust. That thing is so heavy it is like riding a cow. I crashed it on a slow speed approach. Very minor drop, but it broke the bolts that attach the rear frame from the front frame. Had to ride 70 miles standing up to get to a harware store to better fix it. I can't wait to get the KLX on the road. I sure welcome the lower weight.
When U'll try one, U'll became a member of the klx owners club and your life will never be the same as before
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Old 09-05-2006, 10:58 PM   #37
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My last post described the broken subframe bolts on the KLR650. While stripping the KLR I was looking across at the KLX and noticed what I'm sure you all know - The rear "subframe" on the KLX is not bolted to the front frame, it is WELDED!. From looking at the design, I gotta believe that it is better. Any known issues with the KLX frame?
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Old 09-05-2006, 11:12 PM   #38
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i replaced a CDI for a transalp, ronayers beat everyone I checked with, I guess thumpertalk discount parts too. also w/ TA cdi. some people fixed them by soldering bad connections. dunno, try asking on the klx forum if anyone knows what goes out on them. they cut back the rubber, seemed to work.

Posaja, nice bike!
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Old 09-05-2006, 11:42 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COBAUM
My last post described the broken subframe bolts on the KLR650. While stripping the KLR I was looking across at the KLX and noticed what I'm sure you all know - The rear "subframe" on the KLX is not bolted to the front frame, it is WELDED!. From looking at the design, I gotta believe that it is better. Any known issues with the KLX frame?
I see that as a serious weakness. Much rather have a bolted subframe like the XR650R. Issue is when you crash (specially with bags mounted) and bend/break the back of the frame, you're completely hosed. Well, not completely, but it's a bitch to repair.

I welded a 2" wide strut across the back of mine under the seat just to give more rigidity across the back side. Without that, it was strong up and down, but not across.

-dubb
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Old 09-06-2006, 09:48 AM   #40
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Very clean KLXc on eBay. Joliet, IL. This sucker looks like new.

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Old 09-07-2006, 02:55 PM   #41
switchback
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I am looking at a 96 KLX. What are the must do's for this bike. Is the Dohickey the same on this bike as the KLR? Any other issues?
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Old 09-07-2006, 03:25 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerowner_ut
I am looking at a 96 KLX. What are the must do's for this bike. Is the Dohickey the same on this bike as the KLR? Any other issues?
No dohicky. Motors are different. Gear driven balancer, different head though both are dual cammed and different cases. About the only similarity is the carb, though the jetting is different. 2 versions of the bike. The R model is a dirt bike. C model a dual sport. Check KLX650 forum at Yahoo.com. Biggest complaint seems to be the auto cam tensioner and the auto decompression gizmo used for starting. They have fixes for both though the KLR uses the latter and no one complains.
Typical power mods are: shim the carb needle, screw out the pilot jet a little, bigger main jet, and remove the airbox top. This along with a good foam air filter and aftermarket exhaust is all I have done and it made a noticeable difference. I confess I have never ridden a KLR but have ridden with several riders that own one and based on my observations there is a big difference in power between the KLX and KLR with the former having more mid and top end.

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Old 09-07-2006, 03:57 PM   #43
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Thanks for the reply. Nice to know that the dohickey is not a problem. Hopefully I can talk the price down on this one. Looks like the bike is in good condition but he is asking 600 over book value.
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Old 09-07-2006, 04:00 PM   #44
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By the way what is it with Kawasaki Cam Chain Tensioners? Had to put a manual one on my old ZX 750 turbo as well as the GPzs. Doesn't seem like it should be rocket science.
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Old 09-07-2006, 05:57 PM   #45
R-dubb
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I agree with most of what ITS has to say. I use an API cam tensioner, easier and more reliable than applying the "fix" in my book. The stock setup must be corrected as it simply does not work. If the motor makes an ice crusher type sound at idle the chain tensioner is fubar.

Auto compression release is not really a problem. You just need to make sure the little spring doesn't get snookered when adjusting valves and such. It is the same concept as a centrifugal advance unit in an old distributor.

Doing the valve adjust on this engine is not easy. It is a shim over bucket system and requires removal of both cams if any one of the valves needs a different shim. Takes some doing. Fortunately, they don't go out often. Be careful not to let the engine ever run on when the bike is on its side. Oil starvation on this beast will happen quickly and will cause certain damage to the plain bearings under the cam shafts. Nearly impossible to repair

Be careful about not getting the jetting too rich. I am not a big fan of the CVK carb (same one as the KLR). Converted mine to a 39mm FCR and love it, but it's not a cheap mod. One of the reasons I gave up on the CVK is that mine was tearing diaphragms often while bouncing through rough terrain. Could be that it had a burr or other defect that I never sorted out. Even one incident like this in a remote area tends to sour the spirit. For reference, Harley's use nearly the same carb and many parts are interchangeable and cheaper than the Kawi's.

Not much else to talk about. The gear box, clutch and bottom end are very reliable.

Good luck and do let us know

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