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Old 02-13-2015, 11:52 PM   #1
timeOday OP
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WHY won't it start?

I got a used 2010 Husaberg FE570 a couple months ago. My first two 1-hour rides went fine. Then I changed the oil which prompted the clutch to slip. During the process of fixing that I started the engine many times (to adjust the Rekluse) and it started and ran fine.

But then, about 3 miles into what was to be my first real ride on it, it suddenly lost all power and coasted to a stop. Back in my garage 2 hours later (after walking back to get the car and trailering the bike home) it started right up again, although I just let it idle for a few seconds and didn't ride it then.

I had accidentally left the gas cap off the bike during the 10 mile car ride out to the dirt before it quit on me, and this bike has most of the same FI components as KTMs from that year, which are fairly notorious for fouled fuel filters/pump/injector and fuel tank overheating, so I insulated the tank and installed a new fuel pump.





With the new pump, the bike started right up. I went for a test ride around my neighborhood. It seemed fine. Then 3 miles into it, it lost all power, just like the first time. I pushed it home.

It hasn't started since then.

I first assumed the fuel line had popped off the new pump (it has no barb) and when I re-opened the tank the hose was rather crooked. I assumed it would work again after re-installing and using safety wire to hold the fuel line to the pump, but it did not. Thinking I might be kinking a line inside the tank, I re-installed a few times in different configurations with different length patches of hose, but no luck.

So then I got a fuel pressure gauge, disconnected the fuel injector, and attached the gauge. When I tapped the ignition button the gauge went right up to 50 psi, spot-on.



Then I cleaned the injector by back-flushing it, then tested it using 50psi of compressed air to push a few ml of gas through it, one puff at a time. It looks good.





The inline fuel filter by the injector is the newer gray 20 micron one, not the older 10 micron one prone to clogging. And it looks clean. I also tried it without the filter in there at all, with no change.



Then I checked the signal to the fuel injector to make sure it's pulsing, which it is.

The LED on this cigarette adapter will show when it's getting 12V:


When I crank the starter it flashes a few times per second:


Then I checked the spark. It is sparking.


I have also checked the fuses and they are fine, although since both the FI and spark plug are firing I don't know how a fuse could explain it.

With both fuel and spark, I think the bastard should run. But it doesn't start at all.

However, I do get the occasional backfire. And lastly, some ignitions inside the throttle body.

Here is looking down into the airbox:



...and the occasionally it goes pop and there is a flash inside and a puff of air back up towards me:



What gives? Do I need to look at the valve train? It was running fine before it died, and didn't make bad weird noises when it stopped, nor does it when I hit the starter.

I'm grasping at straws. What if I filled it with diesel somehow? Is there any simple way to test what's in my jerry can?

timeOday screwed with this post 02-13-2015 at 11:57 PM
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:20 AM   #2
MeinMotorrad
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You did change the fuel filter? Is the air filter clean? Are the valves in spec? I wonder if the cam chain has slipped a little. I don't know your particular bike but My KTM needs to have good grounds for the efi to get a proper signal - many owners sand back to bare metal at the grounds. Easy to do and a good preventative.

Have you got a multimeter - check the resistance of the plug wire. Can you try a new spark plug?

Edit: Take a look at this - http://husaberg.org/husaberg/15593-b...mmon-mods.html Cam chain tensioner gets a mention.
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Old 02-14-2015, 03:17 AM   #3
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what controls the timing of the spark? does it have a crank sensor? coil breaking down?
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Old 02-14-2015, 06:03 AM   #4
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Don't know how many hours on bike but I would check valves next. Symptoms in early tight valves are what you have - starts cold but gets worse as everything heats up and expands. I may be all wet but after all the testing you have already done, it sure would be nice to know that you don't have a tight valve - good luck
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:40 AM   #5
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Have you checked the fault codes? Should have a list in your manual.
If you put diesel in it you should be able to smell the difference, if not sure drain the tank and put fresh gas in.
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:03 PM   #6
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Definitely purge the system of fuel and put FRESH fuel in there if there is any question. Go from there.

My go-to diagnosis technique is to use ether. If it runs for a few seconds on a blast of ether (into the spark plug hole), than you KNOW it's a gasoline problem.
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Old 02-15-2015, 04:55 AM   #7
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Tight valve symptom is hard to start cold (they're tight and not fully closed), starts better once it warms up. To the OP, I'm impressed with your methodical approach to troubleshooting the problem. To eliminate fuel, is it possible to remove the injector but leave the control wiring and fuel connected, crank the bike and watch it spray into a jar with a lid attached (with a small hole cut in the lid to stick the injector nozzle in or same thing with clear tubing)?

I'm kinda leaning towards the stator or ign box with the odd hit once in a while but with FI it's all a crapshoot unless one has the diagnostic equipment or spares to try out.
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Old 02-15-2015, 07:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akarob View Post
Definitely purge the system of fuel and put FRESH fuel in there if there is any question. Go from there.

My go-to diagnosis technique is to use ether. If it runs for a few seconds on a blast of ether (into the spark plug hole), than you KNOW it's a gasoline problem.
This. It is almost certain you polluted the fuel with dirt yet I don't see any mention of dumping the fuel, blowing out the tank and checking inside of it. That would have been my first stop before looking at downstream components.

Well, actually, my first thing would be a quick shot of starting fluid as mentioned. There is always a can in my garage. Go easy on it though because too much is hard on the oil film in your cylinder. But that tells you in an instant about spark.
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Old 02-15-2015, 07:38 PM   #9
timeOday OP
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Thanks everybody. I have to go out of town this week so it will be a few days before I can work on it again, but I think my next steps will be to try a can of starter fluid (sounds cheap and easy enough) and then, I guess, check the valves - I haven't since I bought the bike so I ought to anyways. (I doubt valve clearance could account for the bike working fine and then suddenly losing all power - on two different occasions - as described in my original post).

Part of the reason I've given the fuel a pass at first is because, to empty the Husaberg tank for removal, I drained it into my KTM 640 Adv, which has been happily burning it off. Of course it is carbureted and maybe less picky on dirty gas... In fact I went for a real nice 3 hour ride on that tankful today, that bike is scoring a lot of points with me right now. Whereas the second (permanent, so far) cutout of the Husaberg was on a different tank of gas, from a jerry can, although IIRC I filled that at the same time as the tank on the 'Berg.

As for what the problem actually is, I am leaning towards electrical or digital gremlins (ugh). I guess I will try a new plug first, even though it looked to be firing OK to the naked eye, since it would be good to have a spare on hand in any case.

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Old 02-20-2015, 08:53 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by justlookin View Post
Don't know how many hours on bike but I would check valves next. Symptoms in early tight valves are what you have - starts cold but gets worse as everything heats up and expands. I may be all wet but after all the testing you have already done, it sure would be nice to know that you don't have a tight valve - good luck
So, I got back to my new-to-me problem child FE570 this evening.

Since the bike has a Rekluse you can't turn the engine to TDC by turning the rear wheel. You have to remove the stator cover. (The kinked yellow tubing is how the clutch was closed up - it's Rekluse-only.)

I worked very slowly and carefully to pry off the gasket as I went



But I still severed it at the wire plug



Anyways, I got it to TDC and measured the valve clearance. There isn't any. Not even a piece of paper fits. Not on either valve, both inlet and exhaust.



I cranked it through a couple complete revolutions to make sure, and at no time is there any clearance on any of them.

I don't know what shims to start with because I don't know how much negative clearance I have.

The 1.00mm shims are the same as for Harleys, maybe they'll let me buy a stack of all sizes and return all but 4.

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Old 02-21-2015, 06:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timeOday View Post
So, I got back to my new-to-me problem child FE570 this evening.



Anyways, I got it to TDC and measured the valve clearance. There isn't any. Not even a piece of paper fits. Not on either valve, both inlet and exhaust.



I cranked it through a couple complete revolutions to make sure, and at no time is there any clearance on any of them.

I don't know what shims to start with because I don't know how much negative clearance I have.

The 1.00mm shims are the same as for Harleys, maybe they'll let me buy a stack of all sizes and return all but 4.
Are you sure you are at the correct TDC? There are two of them. Are you measuring for clearance in the correct spot?
Valves dont just suddenly go out of spec unless something else is broken. If the bike ran fine then all of the sudden didnt you have bigger issues than the valves being tight.
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Old 02-21-2015, 07:37 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
Are you sure you are at the correct TDC? There are two of them. Are you measuring for clearance in the correct spot?
Valves dont just suddenly go out of spec unless something else is broken. If the bike ran fine then all of the sudden didnt you have bigger issues than the valves being tight.
On this bike it's fairly simple because you just advance it until the dot on the cam sprocket lines up with the dot on the tower - in my last picture they are at about 8 o-clock.

Here is the manual:



That's it.

I also turned it through a couple complete revolutions to make sure there was no clearance at some other phase.

If my thinking is wrong I would really like to know; I recently wasted a lot of time getting my 640 Adventure clearances right because I adjusted the valves at the wrong TDC. (But that one doesn't have an indicator dot).

I am not betting money that this is "the" problem, but if there is no clearance it certainly needs fixed.
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Old 02-21-2015, 10:49 AM   #13
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are you sticking your feelers in the right spot?

If in fact there is 0 lash on any of the valves I would be concerned depending on how long it has been like that, if it ran like that for long the valves could be junk.
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Old 02-21-2015, 07:50 PM   #14
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Have you checked your spark plug cap for cracks. Thats something I have found in the past gave me grief once the engine was warm.
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Old 02-21-2015, 09:43 PM   #15
timeOday OP
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Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
are you sticking your feelers in the right spot?

If in fact there is 0 lash on any of the valves I would be concerned depending on how long it has been like that, if it ran like that for long the valves could be junk.
Yes, I am concerned about the valves. People say the valves on the FE570 move very slowly, so it must have been out of spec for ages.

The manual is very clear on where to measure:



I didn't do much wrenching today, I was riding my 640 Adv around the desert, having a lot of fun, but also thinking how it seems implausible that all 4 valves would have no clearance. I thought, maybe the rocker arms just need a little help to lift up and measure the clearance? I looked at it this evening and in fact there is a big gap between the cam and the roller bearing at TDC. But still the arm cannot lift any higher, even with a reasonable prying force on a screwdriver. I went ahead and checked each gap with my thinnest feeler, instead of just looking. There is no clearance on any of them. I would love to be told I have overlooked something.

Meanwhile I am going to try re-using the torn signal generator gasket. I carefully coated the gasket with ultra blue rtv and stuck it in on the casing, which I had cleaned:



My plan is to let it dry this way, then put smear the mating surface on the cover with a bit of grease before replacing it. Hopefully then I can cleanly remove the cover in the future without wrecking the gasket. It's a shame the bike doesn't have an access hole in the signal generator cover
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