KLR 650 Modifications

[GB]

There's enough juice from the stock stator to run Piaa's?

[VascoMerlin]

And also did you have some mounting issues with the PD Bars.... One side fits much closer to the fairing than the other?????

[JaySoy]

Originally Posted by Gadget Boy

There's enough juice from the stock stator to run Piaa's?

That's what I was thinking!

[gunny_usmc]

those piaa's are as cool as a flat out lizard drinking !

[Eaglebeak]

" As cool as a flat out lizard drinking"

The correct term is

"Are you busy mate ?"

"Yeah, I'm flat out like a lizard drinking"


My PD bars hit the right forks on full lock and you have to remove the left ones to remove the radiator cap. Not good.

[Drifter]

Originally Posted by Gadget Boy

My KLR mods, yes, I went overboard:

- Magura hydraulic clutch
- IMS 6.6 gallon tank
- Scottoiler
- Progressive fork springs
- Rick Mayer custom saddle
- Alum skid plate
- Happy Trail engine guard and pannier racks
- Handlebar risers
- 320 mm front brake rotor
- Stainless steel brake lines
- Big Cee's sport dashboard and rear brake rotor's shark fin
- Side stand large foot
- Security oil filler cap
- Stainless steel washable oil filter
- Brake! LED brake light and auxiliary running light
- Stainless steel screws / bolts throughout: engine and body panels
- Shock sock
- Big Cee's rear subframe reinforcement kit
- Heated grips
- Kisan's headlight modulator
- Kisan Chargeguard: Charger, voltmeter, ammeter, ambient temp thermometer
- Accessory sockets for GPS and tire pump
- Low vibration mirrors
- Mirror pivots to fold down mirrors while riding on trails
- Carb T- mod
- Stainless steel footpegs
- Doohickey
- Maier bark busters and deluxe ATV plastic guards to protect hand levers
- Fork brace
- Choke relocation perch
- Headlight assembly / turn signal replacement with push to cancel for turn signals and off position for headlight
- Brake speed bleeders
- All glass fuses replaced with ATO fuses
- Stebel Nautilus airhorn
- LED dash bulbs
- Center stand
- Fan relay bypass to turn fan on, on demand
- Folding gear selector
- Headlight protector

and a few other things.... It's a commuter bike, it's a dual sport bike, it's used on trails, on streets and on highways... It's the Swiss Army knife of bikes and it doesn't bust the budget.

Hey Gadget Boy! Where did you buy your handlebar risers? and Folding mirror stems?

Thanks

[orklr]

Thanks!

The lights are PIAA 510s (the newer 510s have a different light cover). The 510s have 55 Watt H3 bulbs. I don't think the stock system will handle them. The 2007 stock stator only 238 Watts or 14V, 17A @ 7000 rpm according to the KLR FAQs page, its close enough to make your butt pucker. Check out this thread tidbits more KLR Fuse block

You can get 35 Watt H3 bulbs that might work better. My bike is asking for the ESG451 400w stator from Electrosport for Xmas.

Mounting the PIAAs was easy, I used NOBLE insulated wire clamps (pn 2216) that I had laying around (they are 1/2" w/ 3/8" hole and came in a six pack for $3.99 at Ace Hardware). I'm sure you can find similar clamps at any hardware store.

Even though the PDs are supposed to be made of 5/8 inch tube steel, I had to wrap a bit of electrical tape around the bars to get the fit I wanted. I wasn't worried about fraying since the insulation on the clamp is rubber. Also, I figure that it will help reduce the vibrations of the PIAAs and their bulbs.

The mounting bolt of the 510s fit perfectly, but I did do a tiny bit of fiddling with the clamp to get the mounting holes to line up enough to put the bolt through. (The holes didn't line up because to the electrical tape I wrapped on the bars.) Once tightened down, the lights and clamps hold pretty firmly, but you can add or subtract electrical tape to get the fit perfect.

There were no clearance issues (at least where I mounted the clamps). In the future, I plan on welding tabs onto the PDs and using rubber grommets to help reduce vibrations.

As far as the switch goes, I purchased a mini-dash from bentspoke. I plan to mount it on that along with a Datel voltmeter.

Later, I may need more dash space eventually so I've been working on the DIY dash from bigcee. At that time I will probably switch to the Aerostich 5-Function Digital Meter #4632I

Hope the info helps.

[gunny_usmc]

Originally Posted by Eaglebeak

" As cool as a flat out lizard drinking"

The correct term is

"Are you busy mate ?"

"Yeah, I'm flat out like a lizard drinking"


My PD bars hit the right forks on full lock and you have to remove the left ones to remove the radiator cap. Not good.

Eagle, thanks for the lesson, it does help to know the context to use it with, it was something my boy said he heard Mr. Erwin use and I thought it was cool, no disrespect or butchering was intended.

[Eaglebeak]

Originally Posted by gunny_usmc

Eagle, thanks for the lesson, it does help to know the context to use it with, it was something my boy said he heard Mr. Erwin use and I thought it was cool, no disrespect or butchering was intended.

None taken.

[irishdec]

Take a look at mine !!!!(no snide remarks)

[orklr]

Originally Posted by irishdec

Take a look at mine !!!!(no snide remarks)

The merimite containers make me hungry! That's a good idea...I might have to xerox that.

[kdxkawboy]

Originally Posted by ldeikis

How does the 18" wheel fit in there? Have you done anything else (like raising links) to help clear? I'm not worried about the inner fender by the plate, but I'd be afraid I'd tear the hell out of the top of the inner fender, or have packup problems by the swingarm "u". Did you clearance the swingarm at all?

No raising links or any other mods. Haven't had any clearance problems except with the rear of the inner fender. That's why I bobbed the inner fender and moved the plate to just under the tail light. I normally run a 5.10x18 IRC GP1, have had Dunlop 606s and a fat 140x18 Sahara 3. Tire isn't leaving any skid marks on the inner fender.

One of the other reasons I talked myself into going with the 18", for all the playing around they have done with different size tires/rims on dirt bikes it seems to always come back to the tried and true 18" rear and 21" front. I figured it would just be a subtle difference, like that between normal and USD forks. I was surprised by the difference, which I expect is due to a slight reduction in the fork's rake.

Oh, I forgot one other mod. I have a dream catcher zip tied to the cross bar on the handlebars. Figure it's a proper adventure rider version of spirit bells.

[orklr]

Anyone have a tow hitch setup for the KLR?

[Pine Sol]

i read alot of people lowering their bikes, but does anyone know of someone making it taller?? i love the looks of desert bikes, and would like to do something similar with my KLR, just wondering if anyone has??? i would like to make raise the front and rear suspension, larger tank maybe a face lift with the speedo clusters wind shield, something like the wind shield off of a 2000 KTM 640 Adventurer, twin head lights would also look good, and see about shaving some of her baby fat off, ie muffler, and other heavy bits.

i would love to have a seat height of lets say 38+ inches. (alittle bit higher would also be ok)

any ideas of how to give her this make over???

thanks

[gunny_usmc]

over at KLR650,com, one of the guys has a hitch on his KLR, towing a single wheel trailer. Looks really good, I'll see if I can find the link to the forum it was on.

You can get raising links for the klr, try arrowhead motorsports.