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Old 05-27-2012, 12:20 AM   #3031
Adiventure
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Fusebox Replacement

So I blew my headlight fuse while driving around the other day. I probably should have been clued off by the small puff of smoke (that better be what it was), but really noticed it when I went to go home and realized that not only could I not see what was in front of me, but also couldn't see if I was speeding.

For right now I think I'm just going to replace it with another glass fuze, but this put a "real fuze box" pretty high on my list of mods. I think I should be able to make one myself between radioshack and autozone, but I've also seen things like this and this. Is there a reason to get those? The reviews seem good, but pricing it online I thought I could do something similar for way way less. Given that I'm a broke student and as cheap as most of the rest of you, ''way less" sounded nice.


Edit: Should have said it's a '98

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Old 05-27-2012, 12:46 AM   #3032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adiventure View Post
So I blew my headlight fuse while driving around the other day.

Given that I'm a broke student and as cheap as most of the rest of you, ''way less" sounded nice.
Assuming you have a Generation 1 KLR, the stock 10-amp headlight fuse has proven inadequate when the high/low beam switch temporarily and inadvertently engages both filaments simultaneously, as sometimes happens.

The low-budget solution, in this case, is replacement with a 15-amp fuse.
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Old 05-27-2012, 01:02 AM   #3033
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Been on a tour and ran into another KLR rider traveling the country this year... her steed needed some TLC sooooo...

NomadGals KLR is named Spirit.... and on Monday we thought the engine was blown and the Spirit had flown.
Sooo we set about ripping him/her apart and had another engine coming, when last night we realized I had made a Paypal address error... instead of Idaho... the engine was on its way.... to PA! : Sooo again we did some rethinking, cancelled the engine order with only a shipping cost loss and dug back into 'er and ended up saving a couple $$$$.
Been a busy week for us here in MJ Man Waynes shop....


For Desiree'.... LeoVince slip on, new 606's, new front brakes, adjusted/checked the valves, swapped on a 16 tooth primary, cleaned the Uni filter, did an oil w/filter change...twice, swapped wind screens, new tool tube plug, rejetted the main, then.............................................. . :

Helped NomadGal with Spirit to: Pull engine, swap front tire, new front brakes, pull and installed chain, redid some wiring, new grips, new hand guards, new throttle lock, new throttle cables, new 2" Rox anti-vibration risers, new mirrors, put on my old Lowering links-raised forks an inch, cleaned and regreased all swingarm and linkage bearings, new rear wheel bearings, new Uni filter and cage, changed oil and filter-twice, removed center stand, adjusted valves, re-installed the engine (wasn't blown afterall.. just needed some Magic!^)- Pulled the cover and Rotor, then readjusted her Doo's torsion spring for better chain tension, cleaned and tweaked her timing chain auto adjuster for better chain tension, pulled clutch cover cleaned and checked screen, threw in an inline fuel filter, cleaned the carb and pulled out the idle screw plug, straightened out exhaust, misc new bolts and touches... etc.
I'm sure I forgot a few things.... but in any event not exactly sitt'n around on our thumbs LOL!

Catch ya later... :
aaaand Moab here we come........
Jim


















/b]

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Old 05-27-2012, 05:36 AM   #3034
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Originally Posted by Adiventure View Post
For right now I think I'm just going to replace it with another glass fuze, but this put a "real fuze box" pretty high on my list of mods.

You might also want to look at:

http://www.electricalconnection.com/...sses/08106.htm

Plug and play, moves the fuses to the side stand switch cover so that they can be accessed without removing the seat, and affordable. The main advantage of this kit is that you don't have to cut any wires, not extending wires, etc. The advantage of going to a fuzeblock or likewise is that you get additional circuits. I am actually going to order a second 3-circuit fuse block holder from Eastern beaver that is the same as the EC.com kit and wire it up in the dash area. This will provide enough circuits for my needs and let me keep the stock harness 100% in tact.
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Old 05-27-2012, 05:41 AM   #3035
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Too cool! I love the idea of tech days, helping ones whose experience or tool selection is lacking. Looks like you breathed new life into Spirit! Respect and congratulations on the resurrection....
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Old 05-27-2012, 06:01 AM   #3036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adiventure View Post
So I blew my headlight fuse while driving around the other day. I probably should have been clued off by the small puff of smoke (that better be what it was), but really noticed it when I went to go home and realized that not only could I not see what was in front of me, but also couldn't see if I was speeding.

For right now I think I'm just going to replace it with another glass fuze, but this put a "real fuze box" pretty high on my list of mods. I think I should be able to make one myself between radioshack and autozone, but I've also seen things like this and this. Is there a reason to get those? The reviews seem good, but pricing it online I thought I could do something similar for way way less. Given that I'm a broke student and as cheap as most of the rest of you, ''way less" sounded nice.


Edit: Should have said it's a '98
Before you buy a new fuze block and put a 15amp fuse in, check your wiring harness for the short circuit. Maybe start at the point where you saw the puff of smoke. But definitely take the gas tank off and follow the wires from the battery all the way to the headlight. You'll most likely find the short there.

I personally would never put a bigger fuse in. You're just doing a temporary fix that will not solve the problem, and could potentially create more problems and expense.
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Old 05-27-2012, 07:18 AM   #3037
Kawidad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
Before you buy a new fuze block and put a 15amp fuse in, check your wiring harness for the short circuit. Maybe start at the point where you saw the puff of smoke. But definitely take the gas tank off and follow the wires from the battery all the way to the headlight. You'll most likely find the short there.

I personally would never put a bigger fuse in. You're just doing a temporary fix that will not solve the problem, and could potentially create more problems and expense.

You're right, but....... The 10 amp headlight fuse is a known problem in and of itself and is known to blow just by switching from low beam to high beam. Switching to a 15 amp fuse solves that problem and is the way it should have come from the mothership.
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Old 05-27-2012, 07:20 AM   #3038
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Cool posting JJ.

Regarding the cam chain tensioner, when I resurrected my KLR I noticed the CC tensioner was sticking badly. I took it apart several times and could not figure out why, so I just replaced it. Have you or anyone else ever seen that before? I haven't.
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:56 AM   #3039
Jettn Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
Cool posting JJ.

Regarding the cam chain tensioner, when I resurrected my KLR I noticed the CC tensioner was sticking badly. I took it apart several times and could not figure out why, so I just replaced it. Have you or anyone else ever seen that before? I haven't.
Nope first one I've seen in 3 engines... but probably pretty common in reguards to noisy KLR's.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:03 AM   #3040
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black betty got some new shoes...

The stockers are done at 2400 miles with a 90/10 split of road/gravel.

I picked up a set of 705's for $110 shipping included.

Here's the obligatory comparo shot...


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Old 05-27-2012, 09:32 AM   #3041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
Cool posting JJ.

Regarding the cam chain tensioner, when I resurrected my KLR I noticed the CC tensioner was sticking badly. I took it apart several times and could not figure out why, so I just replaced it. Have you or anyone else ever seen that before? I haven't.
Although not common, people do report their cam chain tensioners failing. Some folks don't like the automatic type, and instead choose to use an aftermarket manual adjuster. They all look similar to this:



They are offered by several companies, and can be found on eBay. Here are some links.

Krieger Cam Chain Tensioners
Schnitz Motorsports
APE Race Parts/Big Bore Thumpers

Here's a walk through of how to use a manual cam chain tensioner.

You can also convert an automatic tensioner to a manual one, here's a write up over on KLR650.NET. Although the write up is for a KLR250, you can make a similar one for your KLR650.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:37 AM   #3042
Dusty_Bottoms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tefloncandy View Post
The stockers are done at 2400 miles with a 90/10 split of road/gravel.

I picked up a set of 705's for $110 shipping included.

Here's the obligatory comparo shot...


ummmm
those aren't 705's
maybe they're 700's?
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:03 AM   #3043
Tefloncandy
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Originally Posted by Dusty_Bottoms View Post
ummmm
those aren't 705's
maybe they're 700's?
Unless they got them mixed up from the factory, the tags say SHINKO E705 on both tires.
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:15 AM   #3044
Argentian
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Question Another Doo question

Hi all
I'm new here so hopefully I'm asking this in the right place.
My question is; Are all the parts etc the for an 08 KLR Doohickey mod the same as for the 07? My local bike shop has all the parts for the 07 and earlier models so I need to know whether to tell them to go ahead with the doo on my 08.
Thanks
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Old 05-27-2012, 10:25 AM   #3045
Dusty_Bottoms
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Originally Posted by Tefloncandy View Post
Unless they got them mixed up from the factory, the tags say SHINKO E705 on both tires.
you are correct sir

turns out I've got the 700's and love em
whoops
learn something new every day
someday i may even learn to comprehend what i read
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