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Old 06-26-2012, 05:11 AM   #3076
GO_OUTSIDE!
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The bit you are removing is not the spark arrestor, adding the screen is just to avoid having that argument with the law. The results are less than impressive but the only way to eliminate the tweat without buying a new muffler, ive tried the holes and notches. The end cap can be held on by drilling and tapping the end of the stock muffler, some hitemp silicone helps.
I have a theory that replacing the tweater tube with a piece of pipe sized for proper tuning will improve the sound quality but i havent tried it.
This is a low buck mod for people who already own or can borrow the proper tools. I think i spent $30 and an hour of my life.
Good luck.
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:13 AM   #3077
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Has anyone tried adding a petcock or hose nipple to the right side of the stock tank? I am so tired of tipping the bike over to get more than 10 miles of reserve.
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:56 AM   #3078
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haha. If you do it, please post pics!
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:59 AM   #3079
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Another tire question....

Shinko's on gravel/dirt/back roads. How do they perform? I have read everything about these tires but nothing about them on gravel roads.

Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:01 AM   #3080
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Originally Posted by Frey View Post
Hey All

My aim is to make my bike sound a bit better and until I am willing to modify and tune the engine I can't justify buying a new pipe as all the dyno results have shown no gains and even losses with a slip on exhaust on a stock bike.

I've searched and researched but I have a few specific questions about the 'Low Buck Exhaust Mod"

Is the actual aim here to remove the spark arrestor? Isn't this necessary to ride off road? So we need a new one... riiiiight? Is it the shape of the spark arrestor that causes the tweet? How does this differ from cutting notches in the muffler end cap?

If you buy an aluminum or stainless steel end cap, doesn't this mean you have to bolt it on? How is it possible to secure the nuts so that the bolts will connect on the inside, won't these rattle loose? Is there a steel alternative that is the preferred? I've read about using U Nuts.

So it seems to me like the best way would be remove the spark arrestor, add a new spark arrestor (is the ring around the hmf steel?) get a steel end cap and then get someone to weld the whole thing on. At this point it would cost 70 dollars or so (hole saw, end cap, spark arrestor, getting someone to weld it) and makes this more of a 'medium buck' exhaust mod.


THOUGHTS PLEASE! Thank you!!!
If you've figured it all out and how much it will cost you may not want to do it. I didn't want to spend $$$ for a new pipe and didn't want it too loud so the frugal mod fit me perfectly. I borrowed the hole saw from a friend, but you can drill many holes and then knock it out. Or use a hole saw and don't install a tip. It can be done for $20. Or buy a cheap DG pipe off ebay. Less weight, looks good, considerably louder.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:04 AM   #3081
Kawidad
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Originally Posted by beergut View Post
Another tire question....

Shinko's on gravel/dirt/back roads. How do they perform? I have read everything about these tires but nothing about them on gravel roads.

Thanks!
I have the Shinko 244 and they really aren't too bad on gravel roads once they broke in. Brand new they were not good, but once they had a few miles on them I;m actually rather pleased with the results.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:09 AM   #3082
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Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
I'm getting really fed up with the flexy front end of the KLR (2007). What are the most popular transplant front ends?

Obviously something with larger diameter forks. Something with similar travel would be ideal, but I could shorten travel when re-springing the forks.
I also used a Yamaha USD fork from a YZ125 and they work so much better than stock it's not funny. However, you do loose some turning radius. It hasn't bothered me yet, but in a tight trail situation it would be noticeable.

I would say the hot ticket would be a DRZ unit with the conventional set up or a DR650SE, which would need tuning before use, because stock they are not all that great. However, they are miles better than the KLR stock units.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:10 AM   #3083
sandalscout
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Originally Posted by beergut View Post
Another tire question....

Shinko's on gravel/dirt/back roads. How do they perform? I have read everything about these tires but nothing about them on gravel roads.

Thanks!
Which Shinkos? I have 705s and while I don't have a ton of gravel miles on them, they seem to perform decently on well packed gravel. I recently did about a mile and half on freshly graded gravel roads and it was not very fun (it was very deep gravel), but I don't think that the Kenda 244 was any better in the same). I really like the 705 for just about anything except slime and mud. I had the 244 on my old XT250, and it was a great tire for it, but riding less aggressively and more big pavement miles on the KLR, the 705 makes a lot of sense for me.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:40 AM   #3084
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I'm considering the 705's. My bike is my daily commuter if the temp is above 30deg so I want something a little more geared to the pavement, but on the weekends I can generally be found on some dirt roads and dont want to sacrifice that fun.

Right now im on Kenda 270
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:39 AM   #3085
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I will add this to the 705 debate, as I just installed my second rear tire this weekend.(front has at least 3000 left in it ,I think). My last rear 705 went just under 5000 miles,mostly pavement but with alot of dirt and gravel mixed in. For me they have been a real good tire, on the pavement they work GREAT, in hard packed or loose dirt they work real GOOD, but for me on any type of gravel they are LOOSE scarry loose. I will say that I usually never air down a tire so that may be why they are so bad on the gravel. I read somewhere on the inter-net(so it must be true) they they run hot and have compared them to my brother-in-laws bike( same bike different tire) and they may be just a bit warmer after a long freeway blast. I will say one thing they have the hardest bead to break and re-set that I have ever seen, I had to use a bottle jack on the edge of the tire and put it under the edge of the car to get the bead broke. after that a bead breaker of some tpye will be added to my tool kit. Once the bead is popped they spoon off the rim real easy, all in all a great tire or the price.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:46 PM   #3086
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Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
I also used a Yamaha USD fork from a YZ125 and they work so much better than stock it's not funny. However, you do loose some turning radius. It hasn't bothered me yet, but in a tight trail situation it would be noticeable.

I would say the hot ticket would be a DRZ unit with the conventional set up or a DR650SE, which would need tuning before use, because stock they are not all that great. However, they are miles better than the KLR stock units.
I went with a front end off of a Honda XR650R

Build report here; http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=644649&page=3

Great front ends, these are the same front ends that won countless Baha 1000 Races so they can't be all that bad.

11.5'' Travel
46 mm
Full compression and rebound adjustment
Very little if any reduction in steering travel, (the big parts are on the bottom)

Love mine, handle fantastic and very smooth. Plus the front brake is now a 2 piston caliper.

A setup can be had real cheap too.

PM me if you have an questions
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:40 PM   #3087
Kawidad
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Originally Posted by intotheabis View Post
I went with a front end off of a Honda XR650R

Build report here; http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=644649&page=3

Great front ends, these are the same front ends that won countless Baha 1000 Races so they can't be all that bad.

11.5'' Travel
46 mm
Full compression and rebound adjustment
Very little if any reduction in steering travel, (the big parts are on the bottom)

Love mine, handle fantastic and very smooth. Plus the front brake is now a 2 piston caliper.

A setup can be had real cheap too.

PM me if you have an questions
I originally was going to use the front end off of a Honda XR650L on the suggestion of a local guru. However, I found it to be incredibly heavy with tons of overhang on the bottom (the better to catch rocks with). I rejected it and moved onto the YZ125 unit, which weighed about the same as the stock KLR. But wow, that Honda XRL stuff was amazingly heavy, I'd guess way over twice the weight.
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:47 PM   #3088
Jettn Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
I'm getting really fed up with the flexy front end of the KLR (2007). What are the most popular transplant front ends?

Obviously something with larger diameter forks. Something with similar travel would be ideal, but I could shorten travel when re-springing the forks.
49mm DRZ400E Forks for me......
Compression and Rebound adjustable, cheap, available everywhere, 2 piston caliper, aftermarket wheels and rotors easy to find. Aaaaand they work gooood seemlessly mate to your current rear shock/sag setup. aaand I lost 7lbs off the nose.............
Here's a link to a few different KLR fork swaps.... Mine is listed there too.


http://klrworld.com/forums/suspensio...k-swap-thread/

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Old 06-26-2012, 03:18 PM   #3089
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Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
I also used a Yamaha USD fork from a YZ125

Hey Kawidad, I might of asked you this before but what spring rate are you running?
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:17 PM   #3090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
I'm getting really fed up with the flexy front end of the KLR (2007). What are the most popular transplant front ends?

Obviously something with larger diameter forks. Something with similar travel would be ideal, but I could shorten travel when re-springing the forks.
Have you tried cleaning and replacing the oil and adding a fork brace if that is an option?
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