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Old 03-28-2013, 07:24 PM   #4216
KustomizingKid
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So which project should I start on first... Skid plate/tool box, luggage rack, or rally fairing?

It's gonna be a busy summer
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:15 PM   #4217
beemerjim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2whlrider View Post
I just got progressive fork springs for my 2010 KLR and can't find information on how long the spacers have to be. Do they have to be cut down from stock length and if so does someone know the length? The instructions that came with the springs are not clear.
Also, I am changing the fork oil so do I use the factory amount of oil?
Thanks much for any help.

I used 2" spacers I cut from a piece of nylon rod. You measure down from the top to get the right amount of oil. Go to marknet.us. There is a detailed set of instructions there. Lots of other good info there too


Jim


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Old 03-28-2013, 08:31 PM   #4218
Dusty_Bottoms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KustomizingKid View Post
So which project should I start on first... Skid plate/tool box, luggage rack, or rally fairing?

It's gonna be a busy summer
Rally fairing? Is this something you're fabbing?
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:04 PM   #4219
KustomizingKid
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I am going to do a nav tower with two projector beams and a custom fiberglas fairing that snugs up to the ims 6.6 gallon tank.
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:55 PM   #4220
jeepsandbikes
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Today i continued to go through all the bolts on my bike and replace them with stainless hex bolts ..Im trying to get all the fasteners on the bike the same for ease of removal and cut down on tools required , and in some spots T-handle bolts so i dont need tools at all .
Im waiting for a bunch of stuff in the mail , from a nice aluminum rear master , aluminum pegs , handle bar mirror clamps to mount my license plate and stash box to my rack and a kick ass LED headlight . Im still waiting to hear back from a guy who has a klr600 axle set and kickstand to shed a bit more weight ..
I still have to install my LED spot lights and switches but i think i want to sell my highway bar and make a new one from aluminum .
does it ever end ...
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:32 AM   #4221
Jettn Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KustomizingKid View Post
I am going to do a nav tower with two projector beams and a custom fiberglas fairing that snugs up to the ims 6.6 gallon tank.
Ooooh ooooh..
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:57 AM   #4222
DirtyDog
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KLRistas- I can't seem to find this information in my searches of safety switch bypass mods. I did this mod so long ago, that I can't recall.

My bike has been a non-starter for a month now due to an offroad crash and my subsequent electrical bumbling to get it to restart. Anyhow...

For my safety swith bypass, I had jumpered two wires in the pictured connector below which used to connect to the starter relay. I disassembled it today to clean it because it was packed with dirt. Like an idiot, I didn't actually pay attention to which side the jumper was on before I pulled it. Minutes later, I was kicking myself.

I know it jumps one of these two combinations: black to yellow/red or blue/red to yellow/red due to the shape of the jumper.

Looking at the diagram, I'm not certain either.

Any help? Thanks




Once I figure it out, I'm just gonna solder and heat-shrink the wires for permanence.
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Old 03-29-2013, 08:05 AM   #4223
2whlrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerjim View Post
I used 2" spacers I cut from a piece of nylon rod. You measure down from the top to get the right amount of oil. Go to marknet.us. There is a detailed set of instructions there. Lots of other good info there too
.
Thanks for the information.
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:39 PM   #4224
DirtyDog
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Looks like I picked a slow day to ask a question.

Bump.
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Old 03-29-2013, 02:18 PM   #4225
WildmanSam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
Looks like I picked a slow day to ask a question.

Bump.
you're trying to disable the entire starter lockout circuit?

edit: after re-reading your post. black to yellow/red sounds G2G. but it also looks like black to blue red would bypass it as well. but since you had it working before, no need to change it now.

personally, i spliced both kick stand and clutch switch together at their respective locations (handlebar and kickstand).

WildmanSam screwed with this post 03-29-2013 at 02:34 PM
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:52 PM   #4226
DirtyDog
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Hmm. Seems like maybe you aren't sure. Guessing is what got me in this predicament.

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Old 03-29-2013, 04:40 PM   #4227
Grinnin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
I know it jumps one of these two combinations: black to yellow/red or blue/red to yellow/red due to the shape of the jumper.
The starter button connects positive voltage to the yellow/red wire. If you jump yellow/red to black then the starter switch will turn on the starter relay no matter what the clutch and side stand are doing.

If you jump the yellow/red to blue/red, you get nothing until you pull in the clutch and push the starter button at the same time. This will cause a short. I cannot tell if this will blow one fuse or two. Not highly recommended.

I did almost this behind the dashboard: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20759159&postcount=5197

EDIT: Black to blue/red as suggested in another post above carries no power ever. Does nothing.
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:00 PM   #4228
DirtyDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinnin View Post
The starter button connects positive voltage to the yellow/red wire. If you jump yellow/red to black then the starter switch will turn on the starter relay no matter what the clutch and side stand are doing.

If you jump the yellow/red to blue/red, you get nothing until you pull in the clutch and push the starter button at the same time. This will cause a short. I cannot tell if this will blow one fuse or two. Not highly recommended.

I did almost this behind the dashboard: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20759159&postcount=5197

EDIT: Black to blue/red as suggested in another post above carries no power ever. Does nothing.
(Yeah, I did the clutch bypass too.) Back to my original quandry... The black to yellow/red must be jumped in this scenario. I did the alternative, as you so strongly suggested (prior to your post edit), and nothing happened. No more starter. Jumped the black to yellow/red and now I have my starter again. That's the way it should be.

So I'm back to square one from this morning. Starter but no spark. All fuses are good. No apparent wiring or connector issues. The crash grenaded my kill switch and we hot-wired it. Still had no spark. Subsequent bumbling fried the coil. I have since replaced the kill switch and the coil. No spark. Hoping it was a safety bypass that got bumped loose or something which would interrupt the spark.

Now I wonder if it might be the CDI. Hope not. Assistance from electrical gurus is appreciated.
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"This place fucking runs on beer, you buy the right person a beer, and you get a job, a blow, a place to sleep, whatever.
You're hot, cold, thirsty, hungry... beer will fix that.
Beer is a god damn miracle, and don't you forget it!"
-DustyRags
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:09 PM   #4229
GAS GUY
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Location: Garden City, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
(Yeah, I did the clutch bypass too.) Back to my original quandry... The black to yellow/red must be jumped in this scenario. I did the alternative, as you so strongly suggested (prior to your post edit), and nothing happened. No more starter. Jumped the black to yellow/red and now I have my starter again. That's the way it should be.

So I'm back to square one from this morning. Starter but no spark. All fuses are good. No apparent wiring or connector issues. The crash grenaded my kill switch and we hot-wired it. Still had no spark. Subsequent bumbling fried the coil. I have since replaced the kill switch and the coil. No spark. Hoping it was a safety bypass that got bumped loose or something which would interrupt the spark.

Now I wonder if it might be the CDI. Hope not. Assistance from electrical gurus is appreciated.
Do you have a service manual ?
There is testing procedures for the cdi in the manual, but you will also need an ohm meter.

Also don't forget about the pickup coil, that is under the left cover with the stator.It gives the cdi the pulse signal so the cdi knows when to pulse the power to the coil.

There are 2 coil wires.One should be ground, and the other comes from the cdi and should pulse 12 volts on and off when you crank the bike.
If you have an automotive test light you should be able to see it blink.

You can also test the resistance of the pickup coil.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:16 PM   #4230
GAS GUY
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When you crank the bike does your tachometer needle on your dash work ?
Because the wire from the cdi that pulses the coil also feeds the tach signal, so if your tach is working when your cranking you more than likely are getting your 12 volt pulse at the coil.
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