KLR 650 Modifications

[SamM]

Posted by: DirtHopper
I dont have luck with the search feature, but i hope some of you KLR guys can help. I'm looking into buying a 650 and Possibly going toward a 08 KLR. Are there many performance upgrades for them? I dont see any with aftermarket exhaust that wan't "home made". Anyone have any pics of newer ones with performance upgrades?

DirtHopper,
Almost everything on my '08 KLR60 has been swapped out for better and lighter aftermarket parts. Everything from the wheels to the turnsignals has been changed. Too date, I have removed almost 30lbs of weight from from the bike. I then added some crash protection but the bike is still down almost 30lbs on weight from where it would have been otherwise. The stock exhaust was ditched in favor of a Big Gun Evo X complete system. All the baffles are in place, so no it's not loud at all. Other performance additions include a Moose Racing airfilter, and a Moose (Dynojet) jet kit. The airbox is still stock, for now. 10lbs of the weight removed, came from the exhaust system, the stock lead acid battery, and the stock steel handlebars. Moose Racing aluminum bars and a Westco gel battery replace the heavy stock parts. The rest of the weight was in the form of passenger pegs, a multitude of steel brackets that weren't needed and heavy stock parts. This may seem pointless with the additions of crashbars and extras but dropping weight means the bike will not labor as much getting up to speed. Less weight is the same as a performance boost. We all know this, I'm just going over what I did.

This bike works very well. The improvements in the '08 make interstate riding much better than on the previous model. The money saved on the purchase price (I paid $4895 OTD for mine) make any mods you want on a KLR affordable. My future additions include a 685 or 705cc engine kit and Stage 2 head from Schnitz Racing next Winter. I also have a rear Moose Racing sprocket and 520 FB chain on order. A new 16T front sprocket from Sprocket Specialties is also on the way. The bike also has SW-Motech pannier rack and Pelican Cases will be used on the racks. I had to modify the SW-Motech mounts, exhaust and turnsignals to work with the racks. It's a much cleaner look and it lost about 4lbs in the process.

Overall, I love the bike!

SamM

[SamM]

Yes, the bike is fairly clean is the first ictures. Here's what it looks like today. I have never washed it. Well, once at a carwash but it didn't really get clean.

SamM

[crosscountry]

man, you'd have to pull off every piece of plastic to get that bike really clean. even then I doubt it possible.

[Deano955]

Originally Posted by EvilClown

This man is a Genius!

[walstib]

Hey Now,

Black Plastic Fuel Tank (IMS 6.6gal)
Acerbis gas cap (Arrowhead)
Headlight Harness (TWC)
Metal serrated foot pegs (Suzuki DR650)
Stanley DR8 Tractor muffler (Tractor Supply Company)
Touring Rear Rack (Pack Rat Adventure)
Yellow Panniers (Pelican 1550 cases)
Rear rack 12"x24" (eBay)
Highway bars (eBay)
Tank Panniers-Customized (Tractor Supply Company)
Tankbag (Wolfman Explorer, with KLR harness)
Horn (Stebel Nautilus with relay)
Black anodized Skid Plate (Happy Trails)
Radiator/Reservoir guard (Happy Trails)
DooHickey (Eagle)
Mini-Dash (by Bent Spoke of ADVRider)
Fuse block - 4 gang (by Bent Spoke of ADVRider)
Headlight modulator (Coimagination)
Headlight (Phillips Vision 50)
LED flashing brake light (Dual Star)
Front SS braided line covered in smoke colored plastic (MSM)
EBC pads (Arrowhead)
Cowasaki Sheepskin pad (Alaska Leather)
Heated Grips (Dual Star)
ProGrips - gel
Maier ATV aluminum handlebar guards and hand guards (Arrowhead)
Radiator fan bypass fuse (TWC)
Radiator fan bypass switch (TWC)
Fuse relocation kit with ATO blade (TWC)
Carburetor needle shimmed (1 washer)
After market mixture screw (Arrowhead)
SS carburetor hardware kit (BigCee)
SS engine kit (Desmo)
SS body kit (Desmo)
Volt meter - LED in dash (Electrical Connection)
Choke relocated to carburetor (with plunger from KLX250S)
6.6kg spring on rear shock (MSM)
Rubber flap for shock protection
12v socket between handlebar brackets (Powerlet/Bentspoke of ADVRider)
ProTaper SE handlebars, filled with latex (silver ATV mid-rise)
Adjustable brake lever from KLR250 (silver)
T-mod (Arrowhead)
Battery - Westco AGM, no maintenance
SAE plug off battery
Air filter (No Toil)
Kenda 270 rear tire (I liked the Mefos better)
Cheng Shin 858 front tire
Drilled sub-frame bolt upgrade (BigCee)
Trimmed down wind screen (no lip)
Fuji Nuts on Engine mounts (Dual Star)
Fuji Nuts on Chain adjuster (Dual Star)
Magnetic Oil Drain plug (Dual Star)
Big Foot custom made (by Twin Headlight Ernie)
XR650 mirrors
Customized seat with Pudgee foam (a bit taller)
1" lowering links (eBay ones)
GPS RAM Mount
License plate re-located

[DirtHopper]

Originally Posted by SamM

DirtHopper,
Almost everything on my '08 KLR60 has been swapped out for better and lighter aftermarket parts. Everything from the wheels to the turnsignals has been changed. Too date, I have removed almost 30lbs of weight from from the bike. I then added some crash protection but the bike is still down almost 30lbs on weight from where it would have been otherwise. The stock exhaust was ditched in favor of a Big Gun Evo X complete system. All the baffles are in place, so no it's not loud at all. Other performance additions include a Moose Racing airfilter, and a Moose (Dynojet) jet kit. The airbox is still stock, for now. 10lbs of the weight removed, came from the exhaust system, the stock lead acid battery, and the stock steel handlebars. Moose Racing aluminum bars and a Westco gel battery replace the heavy stock parts. The rest of the weight was in the form of passenger pegs, a multitude of steel brackets that weren't needed and heavy stock parts. This may seem pointless with the additions of crashbars and extras but dropping weight means the bike will not labor as much getting up to speed. Less weight is the same as a performance boost. We all know this, I'm just going over what I did.

This bike works very well. The improvements in the '08 make interstate riding much better than on the previous model. The money saved on the purchase price (I paid $4895 OTD for mine) make any mods you want on a KLR affordable. My future additions include a 685 or 705cc engine kit and Stage 2 head from Schnitz Racing next Winter. I also have a rear Moose Racing sprocket and 520 FB chain on order. A new 16T front sprocket from Sprocket Specialties is also on the way. The bike also has SW-Motech pannier rack and Pelican Cases will be used on the racks. I had to modify the SW-Motech mounts, exhaust and turnsignals to work with the racks. It's a much cleaner look and it lost about 4lbs in the process.

Overall, I love the bike!

SamM

Thanks for the imput, and bump for a nice lookin' KLR

[caborado]

It was not so much knocking down the tire size as "widening" the tires for sand and rock... you only loose 1/2" in ht. going from a stock-21 to a 120/90-18. Yes it is a little squirrelier at high speeds because of the changes in fork angles but it is a KLR and does not really go that fast.... but in the sand it is soooo much fun.

[michaeln]

Looks pretty badass too, Cabo!

[Trailryder42]

I want to do the 18" front wheel mod for that very reason, sand. And if "you know who" decides to market his fork tube extenders(fork caps) I'll probably buy those to get the front end rake back.

[Fe Man]

Ok, I got the bike Wednesday; on Thursday I stick it into a blackberry batch after getting a little squirrely in a water crossing, I now have bent bars!

Recommendations please.

[crosscountry]

Originally Posted by Fe2 Man

Ok, I got the bike Wednesday; on Thursday I stick it into a blackberry batch after getting a little squirrely in a water crossing, I now have bent bars!

Recommendations please.

don't do that again.

[Trailryder42]

+1 But if you DO do it again, have yourself some good aluminum bars on there. The ProTaper SE ATV Mid rise bars are pretty popular for the KLR. Or even the CR Hi in the fat bars.

[EvilClown]

Originally Posted by Deano955

This man is a Genius!

Thank you, but I can't take the credit for it. I stole the idea from FreeTheBeast who had one on his GS. It did come in handy this past weekend...



...along with this new rack from Micatech. Went on a little campout over in Vermont - plenty of room for gear.

[L-Train]

do i need to take the whole front cowling off to replace the headlight bulb? I can't get the thing out of there with it on...

[colomtnbiker]

Yes, you need to take the front cowling off but it isn't a big deal. There are two nuts that hold the turn signals on and, I think 3 other screws or nuts. It is pretty simple. It's been awhile since I first removed my cowling but replace any phillips screw with a bolt. The hardeware store will have them. The phillips strip out and next time you will whine. Don't forget the blue loctite when you put the 3 bolts back in.