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Old 04-27-2008, 11:36 PM   #136
beemerdude
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Eh? ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grider Pirate
Jetting considerations aside, our motorpool gets oil analysis on every oil change. Someone once had the bright idea of saving money on air filters by going to the serviceable K&N's, the next cycle of oil analysis showed that silicates (grindy sandy bits) had skyrocketed. They went back to stock filters.
Let me understand this ('cause I run dual K&N filter pods on my '82 R100)...Are you directly attributing an increase in silicates to the K&N?

Any other variables you might consider besides the K&N, such as riding in dusty environments, dirt riding, longer change frequency??? Anything else?

I'm curious because although I may concede the square OEM filter may seal better than the K&N and that's just a guess, I really cannot imagine a filter POD, appropriately treated with the oil impregnating sequence could deliver any measurable increase in silicates even on just ONE change! I cannot imagine ANY increase using the pods...it really does not compute

Before anyone should be willing to diss a product like the K&N's (at least the pods) I'd say lets here more experiences...I really can't buy that story at this point!

Anybody????

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Old 04-28-2008, 07:01 PM   #137
davemon
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Airhead speedometer housing repair

Anybody got a trick for mounting a speedmeter /tach housing on a 77 R100S where the plastic on the housing is breaking around the 3 mounting bolts?
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Old 05-01-2008, 12:20 AM   #138
opposedcyljunkie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerdude
Before anyone should be willing to diss a product like the K&N's (at least the pods) I'd say lets here more experiences...I really can't buy that story at this point!

here you go (but the charts are gone):

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothrea...postid=1864002
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:32 PM   #139
clint999
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I do all my maintenance with the tool kit I carry on the bike. I have a fairly complete shop, but now I'm sure I have the tools to handle any task that arises on a trip, short of needing to order major new parts to install. Any time I ran across some tool I didn't have, I added it. Everything still fits in a small tool box -about 4" X 5" X 12"
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Old 05-03-2008, 02:35 AM   #140
FUTURE
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How not to fit brake shoes.

The rear brake on the bike has been bugging me. No matter how much I adjusted it I could not get it to grab and well brake. So this morning at 7am I took the back wheel off and see of the brake shoes needed replacing. I was shocked by what I found. See photo below. As you will see one of the shoes had slipped off the pin. The parts of the shoes that are opened by the brake cam are not even make proper contact with the cam. No wonder they were not grabbing. I did some research on the net and found that what was fitted was a set of shoes for an earlier model R100.



I had to get the right brake shoes. I spent some hours trying to get the brake cam to open the shoes enough. But nothing I did made this happen. Thinking I had the shoes back in that I could ride the bike I rode ˝ kilometre and heard this horrible grinding noise from the back wheel. Turned around and went home. I had fitted the tension springs the wrong way around and they were rubbing on the wheel which made the horrible grinding noise. Fixed this and re-fitted the back wheel again.

I went to Motohansa at Rydalmere to get the correct shoes. They of course had them. So off home I go and again not that far from home the back wheel is making some really bad screeching noises. When I took the rear wheel off again one of the shoes had slipped off the pin again.

I fitted the correct shoes and what a difference. I now have a back brake. I assume the previous owner didn’t know he/she had the wrong shoes fitted. All I can do is shake my head at this and am glad I did take the back wheel off this morning.

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Old 05-07-2008, 07:54 PM   #141
Kentucky
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If your airhead has been sitting for any period of time and one or both cylinders are not wanting to idle or run well at really small throttle openings there is a quick fix. Simply remove the float bowls and unscrew the idle jet. Spray through it with some choke and carb cleaner. After you put it back in the bike will likely idle great.
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Old 05-22-2008, 12:35 AM   #142
FUTURE
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Changing the gear shift seal.

I hate oil leaks. I hate the smell of burning oil in a hot exhaust system. It just stinks. From the left side of the bike a burning oil smell was wafting up at me. Also I could see oil on the frame. Feeling around I found some very big drops of oil forming around the gear shift area. On closer inspection I could see the oil was getting past the gear shift seal.





Once the bike is leaning against the tree the gear shift lever was simply undone and moved out of the way. Then the old seal was prised out. Clean up where the seal came from. Get the new seal out of the fridge and rush out to fit it. Use the old seal as a drift and gently tap the new one in with the old one taking the brunt of the soft hammering.





Refit gear shift lever and job done. Wow so easy and quick. It took me longer to get the mattress out of the spare room and up against the tree than it did to change the seal.

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Old 05-22-2008, 09:24 AM   #143
bpeckm
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Classic Airhead Technology

Gotta love the Airhead Stick-it-in-the-Freezer trick..... Well done!

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Old 05-22-2008, 05:24 PM   #144
R-dubb
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Final drive input shaft tool

I know Korn made a tool for this job, but I don't have it.

I do have a number of wasted drive shafts. Newer, older, doesn't matter, its the wasted part that's important. Cut the bell off of the old shaft. I cut mine flush with the flat inner surface. Then weld the open ended bell to a flat bar (1-1/2 x 12 x 1/8") that is radiused to roughly fit the upper diameter. Pretty welds are not something I know how to make....

Now a 24mm socket will fit neatly into the hole. Open the locknut while holding the input shaft with the new tool. Highly effective .

The notched seal retainer ring you see in the lower picture opened easily on my drive with a sharp blow to blunt end drift. Seemed like a pretty safe move and it worked. I won't be able to measure the torque getting it back on, but I will get it on quite a bit tighter than it was coming off.

BTW, if anyone ever needs to borrow the new tool, drop me a line.




R-dubb screwed with this post 05-22-2008 at 10:08 PM
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:16 PM   #145
kixtand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb
I know Korn made a tool for this job, but I don't have it.

I do have a number of wasted drive shafts. Newer, older, doesn't matter, its the wasted part that's important. Cut the bell off of the old shaft. I cut mine flush with the flat inner surface. Then weld the open ended bell to a flat bar (1-1/2 x 12 x 1/8") that is radiused to roughly fit the upper diameter. Pretty welds are not something I know how to make....

Now a 24mm socket will fit neatly into the hole. Open the locknut while holding the input shaft with the new tool. Highly effective .

The notched seal retainer ring you see in the lower picture opened easily on my drive with a sharp blow to blunt end drift. Seemed like a pretty safe move and it worked. I won't be able to measure the torque getting it back on, but I will get it on quite a bit tighter than it was coming off.

BTW, if anyone ever needs to borrow the new tool, drop me a line.



True Airhead technology. Beautiful, simply beautiful.
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Old 07-02-2008, 07:47 PM   #146
bpeckm
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Improvement to headlight bucket /6

I learned this on the /2 website, but hadn't tried it on the /2 yet. Have an old /6 that I am redoing, down to the frame, and the bucket and wiring harness were coming out....

The black interior of the bucket is a black hole that makes it difficult to see or do anything. Like this was originally:




Can't load more than one picture, so the next post shows the after.......
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Old 07-02-2008, 07:51 PM   #147
bpeckm
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Second installment, bucket improvement

So, after pulling out the harness, dis-assembling virtually everything, I am now having the fun part of putting it all back together. Easy does it....

Painted the inside of the bucket white, what a difference!

The easy part was the paint, the wiring was f-u-s-s-y work, but the reward was seeing the dash lights come on as hoped, and hearing her crank over complete with spark. Now, to put the tank, carbs, exhausts, etc etc.......
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Old 07-07-2008, 07:37 PM   #148
r90cafe509
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Question alternator

does anyone know how many watts a '74 r90/6 alternator can handle? not sure if this is tips and tricks
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Old 07-08-2008, 05:27 PM   #149
opposedcyljunkie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FUTURE

What's with keeping seals in the freezer prior to installation?
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Old 07-08-2008, 06:15 PM   #150
Cigars&Scotch
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SHRINKAGE!!
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