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Old 08-21-2008, 04:23 PM   #166
mark1305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerlt
Thanks for that encouragement. I'll blow the dust off of my digital camera and try to post some pics.
I'll add my encouragement. I'm a tinkerer by choice and preference - I like to solve problems, or improve marginal solutions. You are a great model - keep them coming.
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Old 08-22-2008, 01:26 PM   #167
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Feeding fuel line under airbox

I had to run some new cloth covered fuel line through slot under airbox yesterday. Even after loosening airbox bolts a little, I could not push it through. After a little thought I came up with this:

1) take a small dia dowel (I used an old chopstick whose round tapered end fit nicely in fuel line) and push it through from opposite side of airbox hole.

2) trim end of fuel line to a point and loosely (you don't want to make the fuel line end any bigger than it aleady is) slip fuel line over dowel.

3) start feeding the two together through the hole.

The dowel allows you to guide the fuel line so it can "find" the opposite side hole.

It's not rocket science, but maybe it can help someone else struggling with same!

And it worked like a charm.
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Old 09-24-2008, 01:37 AM   #168
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Air and final drive leaks

These two keep reappearing:

If your intake studs/stubs/spigots on the head keep loosening and sucking air:
Clean, degrease with acetone, apply Permatex Hi Temp thread Locker and tighten with a strap wrench or a 42mm conrod.

Final drive leaks can sometimes be traced to a plugged transmission vent bolt. The one that holds the ground wire. Clean it out and see if that fixes it.
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Old 09-24-2008, 08:29 AM   #169
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Front wheel bearing

I just posted a thread about replacing a funky wheel bearing on my drum brake 60/6. Here is the link:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388220



This photo from Duane Ausherman shows the bearing hub assembly in question:
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:32 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerdude
Let me understand this ('cause I run dual K&N filter pods on my '82 R100)...Are you directly attributing an increase in silicates to the K&N?

Any other variables you might consider besides the K&N, such as riding in dusty environments, dirt riding, longer change frequency??? Anything else?

I'm curious because although I may concede the square OEM filter may seal better than the K&N and that's just a guess, I really cannot imagine a filter POD, appropriately treated with the oil impregnating sequence could deliver any measurable increase in silicates even on just ONE change! I cannot imagine ANY increase using the pods...it really does not compute

Before anyone should be willing to diss a product like the K&N's (at least the pods) I'd say lets here more experiences...I really can't buy that story at this point!

Anybody????

Beemerdude
It's a fact...

K+N Filters pass more undesirable crap through to your engine than the stock BMW paper filters. It's just common sense really. In order to pass more air, they have to have larger pores.

If you like K+N's, go ahead and use em. OTOH, I just rebuilt my engine and went back to the stock round filter.

As far as the pod filters go, the operation is the same and the results are the same (Dirt in your engine!) but on an Airhead, when you eliminate the air box and tubes, you're shortening the intake tract. That means that youre giving up torque and a bit of low end drivability, in exchange for what some guys think are good looks, plus a buncha crap in your engine. Some deal...

Why so many backyard wrenchers think theyre smarter than the engineers at BMW, I'll never understand...

Airhead #85

PS:
If anyone around here wants a K+N round filter for an Airhead, I'll let mine go for the cost of the unused cleaning/oiling kit!
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:50 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbasa

Be sure to check the little rubber nipple where the speedo cable comes out of the trans. If that gets cracked, it'll let water into your transmission.
You'll never have to worryabout water getting through that rubber cap if you fill that cap with some clear silicone and then put the cap in place. When you get ready to remove the cap, it comes right off!

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Old 09-24-2008, 11:55 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Hombre

The other thing to change is pull the negative battery cable out from the hollow vent bolt on the tranny and move it to the coil mount bolt. That is one weak sister of a bolt. Have that puppy break with the engine running and the alternator will go nuts and start frying things.
The real fix for this is to leave the original ground in place but add another ground wire running to the frame, somewhere on the backbone or to the coil mount bolt.

Don't forget a dab of dielectric grease!
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:12 AM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mymindsok
The real fix for this is to leave the original ground in place but add another ground wire running to the frame, somewhere on the backbone or to the coil mount bolt.

Don't forget a dab of dielectric grease!
I think this defeats the original intent of moving the ground. The speedo bolt at the transmission is known to strip. The less times you have to loosen/tighten the speedo bolt the better.
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:13 PM   #174
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circa 1983 and not too old to learn

I have to relay three things here that have changed my ride like I wouldn't have thought possible... 1983 R65.

I put together the "four dollar carb balancer" with aquarium tube and a yardstick. Balanced the carbs in the garage from 1000 to 4500 rpm. Astonshing improvement on the road.

I filled the ends of my handlebars with steel bar stock (handlebar endweights)

I fitted a 2006 OEM Suzuki steering damper (ebay for 15 dollars plus shipping). I believe Ohlins actually makes these dampers for Suzuki so purchasing a used one ebay is a very good deal vs 400 dollars for an Ohlins aftermarket one. (mine was removed from a 600cc Suzuki road racer. I shudder to think of why a two year old Suzuki crotch-rocket might have ended up donating its organs before its time. But ours is not to reason why... ours is but to do and.. ride? Was Tennyson a biker?).

The result of these three modifications have so improved the ride of my 25 year old machine that I am astonished. The original engineering of this BMW is obviously sound. But the addition of these mods addresses the primary weaknesses of this bike.

The balancer enables you to tweak out the vibrations common in these bikes at between 4000 and 5000 rpm and the steering damper almost completely remedys the shakes and squirrlyness at speed in curves and sweepers (throw in some potholes and uneven pavement!). I've had this bike for 15 years. I'm finally quite satisfied now to keep it for life.

If anyone is interested I can post some photos. The carb balancer is posted in various places on the web. The steering damper actually has a female thread tap already available in the bottom steering bracket on the R65. It is (unfortunately) necessary to have a friend who TIG welds to secure an ear onto the frame to accept the body of a stock OEM damper from another bike. It's hard to suggest an alternative. The nature of steering damping is pretty unforgiving of error or sloppiness (almost assured with bolt on bracketing). Unless the fittings/moorings/weldments are absolutely without play, the whole project is useless. Effective steering damping, from the mountings to the internal valving, is useless unless it is very precisely fitted.

It is also handy to have a TIG welder to secure the handlebar endweights but it isn't really necessary. You can just take an eight inch section of bar stock and bend the length slightly so that it must be hammered into the ends securely (to keep it secure against rattling).

Anyway,, these are the best mods I've come up with on this bike. If anyone is interested in how they're done.... say so.

bikerlt screwed with this post 09-25-2008 at 09:23 PM
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:27 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerlt
...

If anyone is interested I can post some photos.

...

If anyone is interested in how they're done.... say so.
How daft can some folks be ...

Of course I (we) want to see pics.

As you say, the carb balancer has been covered several times, but the steering damper and bar end weight tricks are new to me, and sound extremely "do-able" on my 65.

Cheers

John
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Old 09-30-2008, 06:12 PM   #176
face scrape 2001
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oil filter cap stripped

On an R100 that I have, the top front bolt of the oil filter cap into the engine has stripped, (an apprentice did it in the first service in 1982 ), are there any repairs that can be made without taking the engine right out of the frame?
A modification which I have been using sucessfully for the last 26 years has been a stack of four coins made into a wedge, to close the top part of the cap.
I've also found this same "bolt" hole has been stripped in two other R models (r100 & r75/6) which I've had the pleasure to own for a short while.
Did every apprentice strip every one of these bolt holes in every R on the planet? Was this a poorly placed piece of engineering?

Is this the right thread for this enquiry?
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Old 09-30-2008, 07:03 PM   #177
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It almost deserves its own thread, only bolt more commonly stripped* is the valve cover center nut. Sure you can fix it without taking the motor out of the frame, but why? The coin trick is pretty hilarious/ingenious.






* I made this part up
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:30 AM   #178
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Bikerlt: am liking your mods, but your photography "needs work" , as you know....

I would love to see a regular size picture of the rear fender mods. I like what I think I see there!

Maybe try posting just one pic at a time? You have some good stuff there, and I suspect that others will chime in with their requests.....




Tanksalot!
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:41 AM   #179
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You mean one photo at a time in real size? Is that preferrable to thumbnails? Seems like thumbnails are friendlier to the website since they suck up less bandwidth (tho i might be wrong on that).

You click on them to enlarge them full screen, just in case there is anyone out there unaware of that. (i just added a reminder above)

Maybe I could figure out how to group them better. Yeah, my photo skills need work. I'd also like a better camera. I got this almost the day they brought digitals to market. It's amazing how outdated it is already!

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Old 10-02-2008, 06:40 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm
Bikerlt: am liking your mods,

and I suspect that others will chime in with their requests.....
+1

Bikerlt : You know they say plagiarism is the most sincere form of flattery? How would you feel if some of your tweaks also found their way on to my machine

How did you deal with the front end of the rear fender, have you just got the fender mounted at the shock fixings, or is there a forward mount too?

As bpeckm said, nice work. It's simple, cheap and extremely effective IMO

I really like the look of the "hugger" and the trimmed rear indicator stalks. It's transformed the look of the back end.

now where did I leave that hacksaw

Cheers

John
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