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Old 05-21-2012, 10:48 PM   #676
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patanga View Post
Hi diston. The LS90 oil is still 90 weight but yes the additive is for the LS clutch plates etc.. Definately a smoother change end result.
I could see how it would help. I think the difference is most likely simply from the oil being thicker. I think dino 80/90 shifts a lot better than a lot of synthetics simply because it is thicker and here 90 wt is thicker than 80/90wt. I use BMW 80/90. It's Spectro oil only a lot cheaper because it says BMW on the bottle.
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:12 AM   #677
patanga
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Worth a try.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
It's easier using a syringe to fill from the bottom. Fill your syringe with brake fluid. Make sure the res. is empty and plunge from bottom to fill the res. way quicker. Feed stores or tack/ferrier shops are best place to find that big syringe.
Thanks hardwaregrrl.... Interesting. I'll give it a try next time to compare and will post my thoughts. If there's an easier way I'm all ears. Cheers.

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patanga screwed with this post 06-15-2012 at 07:09 PM
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:13 AM   #678
Big Bamboo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loflyn71 View Post
Does anyone have a decent replacement for the battery straps? Having 3 /5's, it seems most all of my straps have dry rotted or will soon need replacement. Any ideas welcome.
I made a single wider strap using two pieces of welding rod an a strip of rubber cut out of an old inner tube. I wrapped the rubber strip over the rods and overlapped in the middle and glued it with tire patch glue. Same length as stock, but wide enough to fit between the two stock locations. Overkill, I know, but it works and is rebuildable.
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:39 PM   #679
patanga
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Battery straps

Quote:
Originally Posted by loflyn71 View Post
Does anyone have a decent replacement for the battery straps? Having 3 /5's, it seems most all of my straps have dry rotted or will soon need replacement. Any ideas welcome.
Any reason you're not replacing them with the O.E. type?.. They are still available. Not cheap but they work and look like they belong.

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Old 06-13-2012, 01:47 AM   #680
patanga
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T/C Link fitting tool

How many times have you cursed the fitment of the T/C link on the single row boxer chains. Even with average sized hands it can be a P.I.T.A. Here is a tool that I made for nix that will give you a remote controlled micro hand, perfect for getting into the tight space behind the chain. Just recycle your old tensioner spring, straighten out a few windings, leaving the end two loops in place, bend to shape and you're away. The perfect tool for the job.

Oh and regards holding the chain ends together while lining up the link, (so that you still have two hands free to work); just use a single zippy tie between the link drum ends to keep the two ends held together. (NOT multiple zippy ties around the entire circumference of the chain as I've also seen done ).... Snip the zippy tie holding the chain ends together when the link is in place and yer done:) ........ Good luck.........

You can see this tool in action over at a post I made recently. Scroll down about 3/4 of the page on this link; http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=792675&page=2




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patanga screwed with this post 07-02-2012 at 08:39 PM
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:28 PM   #681
helion42
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@ patanga T/C tool

THAT is a good one. will be attempting it soon most likely.
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:45 PM   #682
patanga
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Tensioner lock out tool tip

Quote:
Originally Posted by helion42 View Post
@ patanga T/C tool

THAT is a good one. will be attempting it soon most likely.
Hi helion42; If you take a look at the thread link I posted above you will also see a tension rail lock out tool that I made to make the job of keeping the rail out of the way much easier. Cheers
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Check us out on facebook at "BMW Airheads Downunder", (The Australia and New Zealand Airhead Community). "B.A.D"
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patanga screwed with this post 06-15-2012 at 07:10 PM
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:34 PM   #683
Bill Harris
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Got a couple of Tips & Tricks on Airhead Cylinder Stud Repairs:

Airhead stud tool dimensions
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743311

with an ephiphany and subsequent advisory:

Airhead Stud Repair Advisory
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745116
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:02 PM   #684
sdduke
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Thrifty /5 Lower Shock Bushing Rebuild

My left hand shock bushing (“Silentblock” Part Number 335 31 230 258) was worn out (the rubber was shot), so I started shopping for bushings. My internet search came up with these babies being about 25 dollars each! My frugal nature had a real problem with that, so I searched some more. On a Sportster forum, a kindred spirit thought H-D bushings from the Motor Company were pricey as well. He used a washing machine hose to rebush his shocks.

Stealing from that, I took my shock down to the Advance Auto store and starting shopping for a heater hose that would work, since washing machine hose OD is too small. It so happens that a 5/8 heater hose fits perfectly. And it's $1.57 a foot.

Here's how to do it:

Remove what is left of your old rubber in the bushing, cut off about two inches of heater hose, press in the heater hose, press in the bushing eye, trim excess hose off with a razor blade, and you are good to go.

With the extra ten inches or so of hose you have left, you can rebuild another 8 bushings.

Here are some visuals for those like me who like pictures:

Shock with hose pressed in (I used my bench vise to squash it in with some WD40):



Push the eye in as far as you can. Then use your bench vise with a socket to drive it home (not shown):



Trim rubber flush with the bushing eye. I made some radial cuts in the hose, then cut off flush with the eye:



Just like Hans did back at the Boge factory:



Back on the bike:



Now my bike doesn't occasionally clonk in the rear anymore.

This was a lot easier than dicking around with a new bushing, as I did not have to press out the outer metal band of the old bushing.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:15 PM   #685
brittrunyon
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Thanks.....sdduke................
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:23 PM   #686
daveoneshot
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Just got done removing the alloy spacer that hides the neutral switch on my /7, the one the long engine bolt passes through. I used my Cat's Paw nail puller......it's got a perfect hook that you can wiggle over the spacer, then grab the other end with some old Vice Grips and tap away. Took me a while as it was my first time removing this thing, but it
finally came out. Let's call it a Poor Man's Slide Hammer.
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:48 PM   #687
patanga
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Cat's paw nail puller ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by daveoneshot View Post
Just got done removing the alloy spacer that hides the neutral switch on my /7, the one the long engine bolt passes through. I used my Cat's Paw nail puller......it's got a perfect hook that you can wiggle over the spacer, then grab the other end with some old Vice Grips and tap away. Took me a while as it was my first time removing this thing, but it
finally came out. Let's call it a Poor Man's Slide Hammer.
Any chance of a photo of what you did/used 'daveoneshot' ?.. Thanks:)

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"The only reason people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory" (Joe Garcia)

Check us out on facebook at "BMW Airheads Downunder", (The Australia and New Zealand Airhead Community). "B.A.D"
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:36 PM   #688
patanga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
Got a couple of Tips & Tricks on Airhead Cylinder Stud Repairs:

Airhead stud tool dimensions
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743311

with an ephiphany and subsequent advisory:

Airhead Stud Repair Advisory
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745116
Excellent Bill Harris.. Thanks.

____________________
"The only reason people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory" (Joe Garcia)

Check us out on facebook at "BMW Airheads Downunder", (The Australia and New Zealand Airhead Community). "B.A.D"
http://www.facebook.com/groups/anzairheads/
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:53 AM   #689
Tobz
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The correct parts for both of these mods are inexpensive, but these parts are easy to find just about anywhere. A pop rivet with the rivet removed is a good fit for a Bing float pin. The length just needs to be trimmed some. Napa has fuel filler hose that is a good fit for 32mm head to carb joints and it should hold up well.

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Old 07-11-2012, 10:25 AM   #690
disston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobz View Post
The correct parts for both of these mods are inexpensive, but these parts are easy to find just about anywhere. A pop rivet with the rivet removed is a good fit for a Bing float pin. The length just needs to be trimmed some. Napa has fuel filler hose that is a good fit for 32mm head to carb joints and it should hold up well.

Now that is a cool tip. Imagine, Long Intake Runners !
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