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Old 07-08-2013, 09:45 AM   #826
bpeckm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
Get the government involved and you'll have to send in 30 for destructive testing, 15 for qualifications inspection and sell 7 to pay the taxes. That leaves you 3 at a cost of about $2.8~ ea. And you're still short a screw.
Plaka has it right... then you write another contract, ad infinitum ut nauseum! It is a time-proven way for the great American industrial complex to make money off of all of us, over and over....
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:30 PM   #827
Sic Semper Tyrannis
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Originally Posted by photorider View Post
I looked for a while for a set of bar risers that would look good on an old Airhead with no luck. Then I remembered that a while back I got a used triple top plate that came with a set of crusty bar clamps and I had an idea...











Pretty happy with the result and my back is thankful on long trips.

As you can see form the pics, I have no fancy tools (not even a vise!) this was done on the kitchen table of my apt. with a hacksaw and some sandpaper. Old cables worked just fine.

Wow that is great.

Love to see what you'd pull off with a mill!

I have one and it is sweet for projects like this.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:36 AM   #828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photorider View Post
I looked for a while for a set of bar risers that would look good on an old Airhead with no luck. Then I remembered that a while back I got a used triple top plate that came with a set of crusty bar clamps and I had an idea...











Pretty happy with the result and my back is thankful on long trips.

As you can see form the pics, I have no fancy tools (not even a vise!) this was done on the kitchen table of my apt. with a hacksaw and some sandpaper. Old cables worked just fine.
That's very nice hand work!. I have done exactly the same thing, using as much of the lower clamp as possible. About 1" rise. problem is, I used studs rather than bolts. I just don't like threading in and out of aluminum any more than I have too. But I couldn't go up to an M8, not enough metal. To get an M6 long enough I had to go to fully threaded. I don't trust long all-thread anythings unless the alignment is exact. Any small side loads or twists and they will crack eventually. Pure tension/compression only. I'm running them, cautiously, for now. Eventually I will get them skimmed for match and parrallelism in a mill.

I ran into clearance problems on the /7 with the instruments. They don';t go up when the bar does. So the clutch cable is mightly tight on the speedo cable at the back of the pod. Will see how that goes.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:38 AM   #829
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Jiffy easy flip lever throttle lock.

Before I launch into some big write up, has this one been covered?
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:16 AM   #830
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Haven't seen this issue here (and I've read all the postings !)

1988 R100GS. Lost all ignition around 37,000 mi.

Roadside wrestling didn't reveal the cause exactly because the problem went away as I moved wires in troubleshooting and hasn't returned but I noted that the wiring harness sags enough to rest on top of the engine case and is slack.

Vibration was wearing flat spots in the wire insulation of the wires in the harness touching the engine top.

Some plastic flex conduit was applied around the wire harness as a preventative. I recheck it periodically for more flat spots. (Best fix would be to secure it better and I proably will soon.)

I'm sure that in the event of insulation wear thru that the wire harness would blow to protect any applicable fuses.

(Saw this is the BMWMOA magazine a long time ago but it bears repeating for those with older bikes. Wire harness destruction would be a Bad Thing.)
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:25 PM   #831
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[QUOTE=
I'm sure that in the event of insulation wear thru that the wire harness would blow to protect any applicable fuses.

Wire harness destruction would be a Bad Thing.)[/QUOTE]

Quite the opposite. The fuzes are there to protect the harness and devices it's hooked up to.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:50 PM   #832
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Quite the opposite. The fuzes are there to protect the harness and devices it's hooked up to.
You'd like to think so but Murphy rules.
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:17 AM   #833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerboy81 View Post
Here are the usual options for the R100RS fairing. I'm unsure if this applies at all to the RT.



#1 is my preferred option. Cheap, 30 second install and removal, reusuable, sturdy and they do the job looking like they should be there. They're an autoupholstery fastener available from car shops and just push straight in. I've used them for years.

#2 is a common choice. Nut and bolt. Tedious, takes forever to install/remove, can crack the screen, but doesn't need the copper rivets.

#3 is oem. Tedious little sucker unless you really know how, or have the right tool. Not cheap for what they are, and from BMW dealers/suppliers only I'm guessing.

The copper rivet can be installed and flared on the bike using a countersunk bolt/nut like shown. Easy as pie.
Here's a 3 minute video showing how long it takes to fit, remove and replace the R100RS screen using the #1 choice from the picture.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atWO...ature=youtu.be


boxerboy81 screwed with this post 08-19-2013 at 03:46 AM
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:49 AM   #834
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FYI -

McMaster Carr makes a really decent box of black pop rivets (plastic breakways just like OEM), but they're about 10x easier to install, and less 1/4 of the price of OEM.

I've used both, the MC's are much better.

And can be installed easily with any typical pop rivet gun (cheap) and some experience using one.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#90219a330/=o4th0n
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Zodiac screwed with this post 08-19-2013 at 09:05 AM
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:04 AM   #835
shearboy2004
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Been hunting around for bulbs for tach and voltmeter on my 88 R100GS .
Found Mercedes uses them too so picked 4 up for $7.89

Mercedes part number 78180
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:08 PM   #836
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just installed Boxerboys #1 solution and it works and looks great.
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:12 PM   #837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RecycledRS View Post
just installed Boxerboys #1 solution and it works and looks great.
What is Boxerboys #1 solution?
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:59 PM   #838
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What is Boxerboys #1 solution?
... here's a bit of a clue for 'ya.

Try using the scroll wheel on the mouse, or even the up arrow on the keyboard.

The answer is a couple of posts up ON THIS BLOODY PAGE ...
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:00 PM   #839
RecycledRS
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Originally Posted by boxerboy81 View Post
Here's a 3 minute video showing how long it takes to fit, remove and replace the R100RS screen using the #1 choice from the picture.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atWO...ature=youtu.be

Here. Post 833.
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:35 PM   #840
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Originally Posted by Zebedee View Post
... here's a bit of a clue for 'ya.

Try using the scroll wheel on the mouse, or even the up arrow on the keyboard.

The answer is a couple of posts up ON THIS BLOODY PAGE ...
Sheesh! Even more !
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