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Old 03-21-2007, 05:46 AM   #91
datchew
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Guys.

I'm pretty sure this thread is supposed to be reserved for "tips and tricks" and basically "here's an easy way to do this and it works" type stuff.

Would you mind taking other questions to other threads so we don't pollute this one as it IS a sticky?

Thanks.
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:39 AM   #92
Lornce
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All discarded K&N filters should be sent to me. I'll even fire a fiver your way to cover shipping and anguish.

Repeat: All discarded K&N filters should be sent to me.

Thank you,
Lornce
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:17 AM   #93
Stagehand
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I dont know if I saw this one-- Snowbum says he doesnt have any good answers if you biff this one but I just talked to Bing and got the skinny:

If you have taken apart your Bing CV carburettor model # 64/32/357-8, and did not pay attention to which way your throttle plate was oriented when you took it apart-- there is a good chance there is a small embossed number on the plate. When you put it back together, first install the lever bracket on the outside, so it (the throttle shaft) seats correctly. (silicon grease the o-ring yadayada) then put the throttle plate in so the embossed number ends up at 12'oclock on the INSIDE of the carb.

If you have installed it correctly, you will be able to look through from the other side, and see the plate touch the carb body at 12 and 6' oclock, and see a sliver of air at 3 and 9.

Edit: I'm trying that now, but that last doesnt make sense. I must have heard him wrong.

second edit: Poster Below is right, just the same slice of air all around.

The throttle plate is also camfered at the edges to fit as conic section in the bore.

Ok.

Thanks. Hopefully this will save somebody else the trouble.


Jason
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Stagehand screwed with this post 03-24-2007 at 05:40 PM
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:42 AM   #94
RandyB
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If you look very closely, you can see the bevels. (No reading glasses jokes: You'll all be there one day, I hope.) Orient the bevels so that they are parallel to the bore when the butterfly is closed.

It helps to leave the screws slightly loose when seating the plate to the bore. This helps to seat it evenly. Once it's correct (Even amount of light all around.), tighten the screws. Ensure the idle screws are backed out first. As usual, I learned this the hard way.
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:56 PM   #95
elmoreman OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
Guys.

I'm pretty sure this thread is supposed to be reserved for "tips and tricks" and basically "here's an easy way to do this and it works" type stuff.

Would you mind taking other questions to other threads so we don't pollute this one as it IS a sticky?

Thanks.
Yeah, really. Go pollute the "dark secrets revealed" sticky thread.
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:53 PM   #96
datchew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmoreman
Yeah, really. Go pollute the "dark secrets revealed" sticky thread.
Ouch! he he he. Fill it to the brim... only the first page matters!
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Old 03-26-2007, 03:09 PM   #97
Motomech
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It's been suggested that I post this here, so here goes.
When re-installing the starter motor, reverse the location of the starter mount bolts with the airbox/upper trans mounting bolts. In other words, use the Allens to mount the starter and use the hex heads to mount the airbox/trans. Much easier to remove the next time(and since this is in "Old School", you all know there will be a next time).
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Old 03-26-2007, 05:17 PM   #98
RandyB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomech
It's been suggested that I post this here, so here goes.
When re-installing the starter motor, reverse the location of the starter mount bolts with the airbox/upper trans mounting bolts. In other words, use the Allens to mount the starter and use the hex heads to mount the airbox/trans. Much easier to remove the next time(and since this is in "Old School", you all know there will be a next time).
Thanks. In about a week, it all goes back together.
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Old 03-28-2007, 08:58 AM   #99
Marrakesh Red
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Replacements?

Hello All,


I don't have a Tip but I do have some questions that i'm sure someone here has enough experience to answer.

I have an 1995 R100GSPD and I have heard that I can replace the French coils with Dyna Coils for better spark? is this true or is there an even better solution?

Additionally while I'm on the subject of replacements...

What about replacing the original Valeo starter motor with the Bosch 9 tooth unit?

And finially, what about replacing the stock
rubber diode board with aluminum ones from motorrad electrik? or is there a better solution???
Thanks to all!

Marrakesh Red screwed with this post 03-28-2007 at 09:23 AM
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:18 AM   #100
RandyB
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The diobe board mounts are great. I have them on my GS, along with the Motorrad system and upgraded diode board.

No clue on the others. On this board, tho, answers will not be long in arriving.
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:58 AM   #101
datchew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marrakesh Red
Hello All,


I don't have a Tip but I do have some questions that i'm sure someone here has enough experience to answer.

I have an 1995 R100GSPD and I have heard that I can replace the French coils with Dyna Coils for better spark? is this true or is there an even better solution?

Additionally while I'm on the subject of replacements...

What about replacing the original Valeo starter motor with the Bosch 9 tooth unit?

And finially, what about replacing the stock
rubber diode board with aluminum ones from motorrad electrik? or is there a better solution???
Thanks to all!

Here's more than you wanted to know about coils:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202925


And here's some starter info:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193226
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Old 03-30-2007, 06:12 AM   #102
RandyB
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A cheap helmet lock can be found anywhere they sell guns. Ask the counterman for the cable lock that is shipped with every new gun. They'll usually give them away. Thread it through something on the bike and the d ring or face plate of the helmet. They're usually plastic covered so no scratching.
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:52 AM   #103
Lornce
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Roadside Static Timing for Points or Dyna Equipped Bikes:

This is a handy method to set your ignition timing that can be done in about 5 minutes, anywhere. Even on the side of the road if you have to.

1. Remove both spark plugs and lay them on the cylinder heads attached to the high tension leads.

2. Remove the front engine/timing cover.

3. Use something plyable to stick in between and splay the ignition advance weights to their maximum fully advanced position (piece of old fuel line, pencil eraser, whatever).

4. With the ignition turned on and turning the engine slowy over by hand using a 6mm allen key in the nose of the crank, watch for the fully advanced timing mark (F) through the hole in the bell housing while you listen for the crackle of the firing spark plugs.

5. Adjust the trigger plate/points plate until you achieve a perfect straight on F mark plug crackle.

6. Continue riding on to Bangalore or Santiago or Chengdu or wherever you were going on your cool, old, self-sufficient /5/6 or /7.

you're welcome,
Lornce
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Old 04-01-2007, 07:21 PM   #104
notarex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce
1. Remove both spark plugs and lay them on the cylinder heads attached to the high tension leads.
1.5. Remove the battery ground cable
2. Remove the front engine/timing cover.
2.5. Replace the battery ground cable
Fixed!
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Old 04-02-2007, 01:21 AM   #105
face scrape 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce
All discarded K&N filters should be sent to me. I'll even fire a fiver your way to cover shipping and anguish.

Repeat: All discarded K&N filters should be sent to me.

Thank you,
Lornce
G'day Lornce, why would you want that rubbish, it is just that. Do you want to appraise it for a survey? I'll take a pic of it, I still have it in the shed to show other people after fifteen years, if you really want?
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