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Old 10-10-2006, 01:37 PM   #46
scottr OP
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Very helpful. Thanks much.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hubilado
I have one of these on my scooter and it works fine, but I'd add a small note of caution before buying the item; Scotts Ad states: "The Triple clamp kit includes the Scotts triple clamp with matching anodized barclamp, Scotts steering stabilizer (bolt-on), linkarm, frame bracket, all the necessary hardware and an owners manual."

All's good, except (unless there is a VERY recent change) that the right bar clamp bolt is TOO LONG and when the ASSOCIATED NUT is attached and tightened it is not possible to turn the bars to the left because the (above mentioned) NUT impacts the ignition lock which is welded to the frame tube.

It's not an unsolveable problem; the bolt can be cut off and you can use a "thinner" nut and all works as advertised, but be aware it's not a turnkey system.

When I last checked wth Scotts they said they were "working on it", but didn't have all the correct components ready to ship at that time (late September '06).

One other note: Scotts makes two different "types" of dampers: an off-road version and a street bike ("R") version. The former damps in one direction the latter in two directions. Some folks feel on these heavier bikes (950's) that the "R" (street bike) version works best. Just more food for thought.
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Old 10-10-2006, 02:03 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neduro
Why do you need to switch the damper on and off? I've never run into the need, although I don't have a damper on my 950, so I can't speak to that specifically.

On the little bikes, I find a small amount of high speed damping away from center preferable in all situations.
For the casual rider, there's very little need. But then again, for the casual rider you probably don't really need a damper at all.

If you ride aggressively through varying terrain, the biggest problem with having a damper is knowing how and when to adjust it. For high speed sand washes you want quite a bit of damping. For whoops, a moderate amount works best. If you're riding in any technical sections (particularly inclines and descents), you need to turn it completely off or risk early exhaustion or crashing out.

I see this 3rd senario far too often... a damper can be your worst enemy if you forget to turn it off when you need to.
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:15 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hubilado
I have one of these on my scooter and it works fine, but I'd add a small note of caution before buying the item; Scotts Ad states: "The Triple clamp kit includes the Scotts triple clamp with matching anodized barclamp, Scotts steering stabilizer (bolt-on), linkarm, frame bracket, all the necessary hardware and an owners manual."

All's good, except (unless there is a VERY recent change) that the right bar clamp bolt is TOO LONG and when the ASSOCIATED NUT is attached and tightened it is not possible to turn the bars to the left because the (above mentioned) NUT impacts the ignition lock which is welded to the frame tube.

It's not an unsolveable problem; the bolt can be cut off and you can use a "thinner" nut and all works as advertised, but be aware it's not a turnkey system.

When I last checked wth Scotts they said they were "working on it", but didn't have all the correct components ready to ship at that time (late September '06).

Quote:
YOGOI


Scotts

I just helped a friend put on his new Scotts upper clamp and stablizer. Looks great and is desighned like the EMIG .
We had to bend part of the steering lock out of the way becouse the upper clamp bolts hit it (the steering lock is still usable however). We also had to trim a little of the plastic cable guide becouse it would rub on the steering lock box. It wasn't too bad; although, some will have a melt down over this .

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Old 04-14-2007, 05:23 PM   #49
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Question

Newbie here,

I like the idea of a stabilizer and I'm leaning toward the Scott's, however I really need to raise the bars some. I'm 6'1 and the stock bar position is just too low when I'm standing up. Does the Scott's raise the bars much? Also, when people say "offset" what does this mean exactly? I also saw where some of these moved the bars forward, I always thought you wanted the bars to sweep back some, but maybe when standing it would be better to have them forward more for better grip/position. I'm unsure cuse I haven't done any testing.

Also, does anyone know if the Scott's have been modified to fix the above issue?
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:05 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost Rider
Newbie here,

I like the idea of a stabilizer and I'm leaning toward the Scott's, however I really need to raise the bars some. I'm 6'1 and the stock bar position is just too low when I'm standing up. Does the Scott's raise the bars much? Also, when people say "offset" what does this mean exactly? I also saw where some of these moved the bars forward, I always thought you wanted the bars to sweep back some, but maybe when standing it would be better to have them forward more for better grip/position. I'm unsure cuse I haven't done any testing.

Also, does anyone know if the Scott's have been modified to fix the above issue?
Take a look at this link. It'll answer most of your questions:


I use the GPR on my 950. Its been trouble free for 20k miles.
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 04-15-2007, 04:19 AM   #51
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Thanks for trying, but I think I'm even more confused.


Also, the pic's aren't coming up for me. those might help some.
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Old 04-15-2007, 05:09 AM   #52
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Greetings cp,
'Sorry to go off topic but, how do you like your Hot Grips?
Is the grip material hard on your hands?

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Old 04-15-2007, 08:42 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost Rider
Thanks for trying, but I think I'm even more confused.


Also, the pic's aren't coming up for me. those might help some.

GhostRider,

Offset is a function of the fork angle, which is affected only by changing the entire upper/lower triple clamp assembly. Offset affects how the bike turns as well as straight line stability.

It is a completely separate issue from having a steering stabilizer. Having said that...some stabilizers require changing the upper triple clamp so some folks are opting to change the entire triple clamp assembly at the same time in order to also change the steering offset.

Bar height and sweep are a personal thing. You need to figure out what is most comfortable for you based on your riding style and physical needs. I found the stock KTM bars had too much sweep for my 36" sleeve length arms, putting my wrists at an awkward angle and causing unnecessary tension on my upper back muscles. A straighter bar is more comfortable for me and gives me more control both sitting and standing.

I believe most of the stabilizers that go on the 950 are under-bar mounts. They will automatically raise the bars about 1". Check with each manufacturer for specifics.

I'm in Seattle. You're welcome to check out my setup - Scott's upper clamp/under-bar mount with ProTaper Pastrana MX/RM Low bars and Touratech 30mm risers.

I hope that helps...

Brian
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Old 04-15-2007, 09:48 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost Rider
Thanks for trying, but I think I'm even more confused.


Also, the pic's aren't coming up for me. those might help some.
Sorry GR. They come up for me

How's this work?
OFFSET:
The perpendicular distance between a line drawn through the centers of the fork tubes and the steering stem center of a triple clamp. The trail is a linear function of the offset of the triple clamps: More offset will yield less trail and vice versa. However, zero offset will not yield zero trail. In that case the trail is a function of the rake and the diameter of the front tire only. The geometry is shown in figure 2.

Sometimes the top and bottom triple clamps do not have the same offset. In that case the trail and wheelbase (but not the rake!) are altered. Also, if the center of the front wheel axle is not in the center of the fork tube as viewed from the side of the bike, then this is equivalent to a change in the offset (and thereby the trail) of the bike.
SE, shame on you for going off topic. That never happens on the OC BTW, the Hot Grips work great. I have them on all of my newer street bikes now. Finally graduated from the stick on foil types I now have reliable heat to my hands whenever I want it. The grips are not hard on my hands. One should be gripping the bars as lightly as possible most of the time, anyway. I know, its hard to do that during wheelies, butt it is a good habit to get into in most scenarios. Your bike's handling will be greatly improved.
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 10-25-2007, 04:41 AM   #55
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Revival of this thread

Hi all, I'm reviving this thread since I am now considering a SD.

cpmodem - I'm tending towards your setup - the GPR. Correct me if I'm wrong - it does require a new triple clamp right?

The only thing I'm concerned about is the "free-to-centre" mentioned earlier, have you found that this is a problem?
Thanks in advance
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:22 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostDOG
Hi all, I'm reviving this thread since I am now considering a SD.

cpmodem - I'm tending towards your setup - the GPR. Correct me if I'm wrong - it does require a new triple clamp right?
It does and it comes with one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LostDOG
The only thing I'm concerned about is the "free-to-centre" mentioned earlier, have you found that this is a problem?"free-to-centre"
Thanks in advance
Explain what you mean by "free-to-centre" please.
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 10-25-2007, 07:48 AM   #57
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Even better, the tower can be bolted on in pre existing hole's. :)
Mine is also low budget, home made RVS plate on the standard clamp, under bar scot's will fit just right with 24mm raisers.
plate: 1 euro and some hours work
damper: 150 euro off ebay.
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Old 10-25-2007, 08:10 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostDOG
cpmodem - I'm tending towards your setup - the GPR. Correct me if I'm wrong - it does require a new triple clamp right?
IMO, the most important feature of a damper is how it handles high-speed hits. The Scotts is the only setup that is adjustable in this regard, and to me, that makes it the only damper that is desireable. I run very very little low speed damping on mine, but significantly more high speed than delivered with, and it makes the bike easy to turn in technical sections while much more stable in chop.

I disagree with Powercell on his reply above- I have dampers (scotts) on all my bikes and have never felt the need to "turn them off". They are an advantage everywhere, although one that has too much low speed (like the GPR on higher settings) could be problematic.

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Old 10-25-2007, 09:06 AM   #59
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I won my GPR in a raffle a few years ago, so it didn't cost me a centavo, thus the reason I originally put one on my 950. At first I was leary about how well the GPR would work. Especially since I had been using Scotts on all my bikes for both dirt and pavement since the 80's. The Scotts line of products are unquestionably, IMO, the best on the planet. Not_to_mention _that Scott and his crew are very savy and helpful (even to my most stupid questions over the years)

To my amazement the GPR unit I have works well for what I need it to do on the 950 (which ISN'T SCORE Racing). It appears to be a very well built piece of hardware, and soaks up the sharp hits (high speed) very well. I rarely use more than 1/3 damping. I don't know how it would work for racing (all my race bikes have Scotts), but it amazingly does the job for the ADV. Not bad for a freebee
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 10-25-2007, 01:49 PM   #60
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I fitted an RTT to my 525 which I raced for 3yrs. Never had any problems with it. They must have fixed the leaks.

It made me a faster rider, less tired and more confident. Saved my self on many occasions. I looked at the other choices but prefered the RTT due to its adjustability mainly, which is very handy when racing. But not so necessary on the 990. However, Im so happy with mine I will be fitting one to the 990 as soon as I can.

There after sales service was also very good when I had a crash and smashed the thing up. The fixed it in a week and sent it back to me in the UK in time for my next race.

Cant ask for more.

If your still not sure why you need one come and have a go on my 525 with it set in the "off" position, then try it "on". You will end up buying one.
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