The official XT225 thread!

[VectorType]

Originally Posted by HardWorkingDog

Welcome

Where are you located? (Go ahead and put a location in your profile. )

Fixed!

Reading through this thread I've noticed that there are a lot of members from Colorado. Or maybe that's just my own confirmation bias.

[airborndad]

Originally Posted by Dirt2Street

Have you had a chance to ride with the sprocket change? Is the difference noticeable?
Also, my friend mentioned he changed his back sprocket on his supermoto...would changing the back sprocket be the same as changing the countershaft sprocket? Say i changed it from 15-45 to 15-43..will it accomplish the same change? Any body know. Hearing this just blew my mid, not really sure why, though.

have fun

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

[VectorType]

By the way, a few months ago I downloaded a service manual (don't remember from where), but it says "this Supplementary Service Manual has been prepared to introduce new service and data ...For complete service information procedures it is necessary to use this ... together with the following manual. XT225D/XT225DC Service Manual: 4BE-28197-20"

The part number is LIT-11616-XT-25.

Also, it's dated May 1995.

Does anyone know if there's a more recent one available?

[HardWorkingDog]

Originally Posted by VectorType

By the way, a few months ago I downloaded a service manual...

Does anyone know if there's a more recent one available?

Yep, they've updated it, but has the same part number. This was recently re-hashed a few pages back.

[Tom S]

Originally Posted by Dirt2Street

...would changing the back sprocket be the same as changing the countershaft sprocket? Say i changed it from 15-45 to 15-43..will it accomplish the same change?

45/15 = 3.00 ratio
45/16 = 2.813 ratio
43/15 = 2.867 ratio
42/15 = 2.80 ratio
So 42 tooth rear is closer to the 16 – 45 sprockets.
BUT! ... The rule of thumb is to change the front sprocket if you want a higher, (lower numerically), gear ratio.
Not sure how to put it other than the chain will roll around a larger front sprocket easier than a smaller one.
Think about how your chain would roll around the sprocket if you could have a little tiny, say 8 tooth, front sprocket. Front sprockets are also less expensive.
Rule of thumb for lower gears, (higher numerically), is to put on a larger rear sprocket.
So ... 16 – 45 works better for this than 42 -15 or 43 -15.

[kewlbyme]

Originally Posted by pnw

I am going to remove the carb to give it a good cleaning and figured I might as well change the jets, it is pretty hard starting and slow to warm up. I live at about the same elevation but within a few miles from home the elevation changes are from just above sea level to over 4000ft. I plan to ride (actually my son, not me) the WADBR with it so I would guess elevations are common to about 4000+ft. Do you think it would run too rich at higher elevations, have you ridden yours at this elevation much. I don't want to do anything that makes it louder so I'm going to stay with the stock exhaust and not do any air box modifications.

Thanks

The highest elevation in Ga is a bit over 4700 feet. I would guess that most of the forest roads and trails are less than 3500. I doubt I have been that high since the jet change. If I got in a tight, I would pull the air box door till I got lower. I have been considering one of those adjustable sliding doors that was discussed and linked a few pages back.

But, my jetting is barely over stock and I would expect no issues until well over 5000 feet. Maybe most of 10000. That's not first hand knowledge. Just going by what others have written.

[GlennR]

Originally Posted by VectorType

I bought a 2004 XT225 with only 238 miles on it at the beginning of October. I took pictures when I got it home, before making any modifications. I've since added larger footpegs and a few other bits; I also have a new rack, Clarke tank, handle bar and Uni filter that I haven't yet had time to install. (I'll post before and after pictures when I get everything on.)

I thought I should read through this entire thread before I posted, and just got caught up. It only took 2 months and 2 weeks!

Thanks to all for the good information in this thread. As I've gone through the thread, I've copied certain posts on recommended upgrades, changes, maintenance, tires, tools, riding locations, etc. to a OneNote notebook for future reference.

Randy

Welcome,
Sounds like you found a sweet bike and are already fixxing it up right.

[pnw]

Originally Posted by kewlbyme

The highest elevation in Ga is a bit over 4700 feet. I would guess that most of the forest roads and trails are less than 3500. I doubt I have been that high since the jet change. If I got in a tight, I would pull the air box door till I got lower. I have been considering one of those adjustable sliding doors that was discussed and linked a few pages back.

But, my jetting is barely over stock and I would expect no issues until well over 5000 feet. Maybe most of 10000. That's not first hand knowledge. Just going by what others have written.

Thanks, I'll give the jet change a go when I clean the carb - that would be after I clean my garage so I can actually get at the bike. Awsome resource this thread is.

[Dirt2Street]

Originally Posted by Tom S

45/15 = 3.00 ratio
45/16 = 2.813 ratio
43/15 = 2.867 ratio
42/15 = 2.80 ratio
So 42 tooth rear is closer to the 16 – 45 sprockets.
BUT! ... The rule of thumb is to change the front sprocket if you want a higher, (lower numerically), gear ratio.
Not sure how to put it other than the chain will roll around a larger front sprocket easier than a smaller one.
Think about how your chain would roll around the sprocket if you could have a little tiny, say 8 tooth, front sprocket. Front sprockets are also less expensive.
Rule of thumb for lower gears, (higher numerically), is to put on a larger rear sprocket.
So ... 16 – 45 works better for this than 42 -15 or 43 -15.

So if I was offroading it'd be better to go +1 in the front but road riding would be better with -1 in the back? or did I just misunderstand?

[Chuffa]

Originally Posted by Dirt2Street

So if I was offroading it'd be better to go +1 in the front but road riding would be better with -1 in the back? or did I just misunderstand?

For offroad front = -1 or go + teeth at the back
For road front = +1 or go - teeth at the back

It's cheaper & easier to start with a front sprocket change 1st.

[VectorType]

Originally Posted by GlennR

Welcome,
Sounds like you found a sweet bike and are already fixxing it up right.

Thanks GlennR.

By the way, I'm considering getting a lithium iron battery from MotoLithium:
http://shop.testsycl.com/ETX6A-MOTOR...TERY-ETX6A.htm

Has anyone had experience with that model in the XT225?

I sent an e-mail to them last night and that's what they recommended. It's $119.

[KamperBob]

Originally Posted by VectorType

Thanks GlennR.

By the way, I'm considering getting a lithium iron battery from MotoLithium:
http://shop.testsycl.com/ETX6A-MOTOR...TERY-ETX6A.htm

Has anyone had experience with that model in the XT225?

I sent an e-mail to them last night and that's what they recommended. It's $119.

I'm curious about folks switching to a lithium-ion battery. What's the motivation?

Thanks to the link above I glanced at their website. They've addressed the voltage match issue with circuitry and matched form factor (size) so it's a drop-in replacement solution so that's no longer an issue. Higher price and lower weight but both marginally not dramatically. Their advertising claims their "batteries are an exceptional value given the fact they can last four times longer than a lead-acid battery." Interesting. The OEM battery in my 2006 is still going strong. (In my experience the life expectancy of lead-acid batteries is 5 years so I'm delighted - knock wood.)

So what's the big appeal with this switch? I feel like I might be missing something...

[GlennR]

Originally Posted by VectorType

Thanks GlennR.

By the way, I'm considering getting a lithium iron battery from MotoLithium:
http://shop.testsycl.com/ETX6A-MOTOR...TERY-ETX6A.htm

Has anyone had experience with that model in the XT225?

I sent an e-mail to them last night and that's what they recommended. It's $119.

I haven't heard of that brand, but the 2 year warranty is great. I bought a Turntech for $110 total, but only a 6 month warranty.

[Tom S]

Here is another option & has a 3 year warranty
http://www.shoraipower.com/
$115 for the XT225 batt. It has 135 Cold Crank Amps (CCA). Or you could kick in another $45 for a big 210 Cold Crank Amps.
That $119 ETX6A referenced above has 85A Cold Crank Amps.
I *think* this is the brand I decided on when replacement of my Ducati Hypermotard’s batt comes due. Their batt for the Duc is $190. The very light weight is a big attraction for me.

Originally Posted by KamperBob

So what's the big appeal with this switch? I feel like I might be missing something...

Here are Shori’s reasons to pick a batt like this. Click on ‘Support’ for FAQ's.
********************************
Ultra light. One Fifth the weight of lead-acid batteries on average
Zero sulfation, for longer service life
Holds unloaded charge for one year without maintenance
Military spec Carbon Composite Case
Faster cranking for better starts
Super-fast recharge rate
No explosive gasses during charge, no lead, no acid
Environmentally friendly
Three-Year Warranty!

[DominoTree]

Originally Posted by Dirt2Street

Have you had a chance to ride with the sprocket change? Is the difference noticeable?
Also, my friend mentioned he changed his back sprocket on his supermoto...would changing the back sprocket be the same as changing the countershaft sprocket? Say i changed it from 15-45 to 15-43..will it accomplish the same change? Any body know. Hearing this just blew my mid, not really sure why, though.

I've mainly noticed that first gear is more usable on the street now, but I haven't actually gotten up to freeway speeds yet.