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Old 06-24-2008, 06:47 AM   #856
RichBeBe
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Hard to hear on the video what it is, but I wouldn't be surprised if it is cam chain related somehow.
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:38 AM   #857
winter_rules
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I just bought a 2002 with 7,700 miles for my girlfriend and have a few questions:

I am pulling the airbox and carb to replace the boot between the carb and engine (and inspect everything while I'm in there). When I started opening up the airbox I got some black oily substance dripping out. It was from the airbox section after the air filter, not before. Due to mosquitos I quit there but I'm wondering what that was and if it's supposed to be in there?

While it's out, I'm going to clean the carb. Any special tools needed?

The engine has a tiny split in the left side (shifter side) case cover. The cover is backordered...can I JB Weld it for now and just monitor the oil level? I see JB Weld is rated for 500*F. Will the engine case get hotter than that? Yes, I realize how much I potentially screwed up in not seeing the oil leak when I bought it. Live and learn, I suppose.

Any general suggestions of additional items I should inspect?
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:58 AM   #858
braindead0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winter_rules
I just bought a 2002 with 7,700 miles for my girlfriend and have a few questions:

I am pulling the airbox and carb to replace the boot between the carb and engine (and inspect everything while I'm in there). When I started opening up the airbox I got some black oily substance dripping out. It was from the airbox section after the air filter, not before. Due to mosquitos I quit there but I'm wondering what that was and if it's supposed to be in there?
Likely the PO oiled the filter with engine oil, at least that'd be my guess
Quote:
Originally Posted by winter_rules
While it's out, I'm going to clean the carb. Any special tools needed?
Does it run? It it runs good, I'd say stay out of the carb. If it's not running right (or at all) I would recommend limiting yourself to pulling the float bowl. You can access all the jets from there, clean them with carb cleaner..etc.. No special tools required.
Quote:
Originally Posted by winter_rules
The engine has a tiny split in the left side (shifter side) case cover. The cover is backordered...can I JB Weld it for now and just monitor the oil level? I see JB Weld is rated for 500*F. Will the engine case get hotter than that? Yes, I realize how much I potentially screwed up in not seeing the oil leak when I bought it. Live and learn, I suppose.
I'd recommend pulling the cover to do the fix. You'll want to clean all the oil off the crack (carb cleaner or brake cleaner work nice and easy). JB weld done properly should be a fine permanent fix. I fixed a broken exhaust stud on a bike (where it screwed into the head got split in two) and that fix lasted just fine. Should be way hotter than the engine case.
Quote:
Originally Posted by winter_rules
Any general suggestions of additional items I should inspect?
If the boot from the air cleaner to the carb is bad, i'd suggest checking the boot from the carb to the engine as well.

Other than the obvious things, tires... and stuff... get it running and ride it ;-)
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:10 AM   #859
winter_rules
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Thanks for all the quick answers! What are the odds of being able to reuse the case cover gasket? I have one on order, but it won't be in until later this week. Is the case cover (inside or outside) painted? If so, should I scrape that off?
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:55 AM   #860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winter_rules
Thanks for all the quick answers! What are the odds of being able to reuse the case cover gasket? I have one on order, but it won't be in until later this week. Is the case cover (inside or outside) painted? If so, should I scrape that off?
Considering the age, I wouldn't be too confident that reuse is possible.

The outside of the case may have a varnish on it, but I don't think so. Maybe someone else knows off hand.

That being said, another option would be to drain the oil and clean the crack with a spray brake cleaner (likely some will get into the engine, don't worry). Try to shove as much of the jb-weld into the crack as possible. You might consider (if you have a dremel for example) opening up the outside part of the crack a tad bit for better adhesion.. If you do that, make sure to clean afterwards of course.

Once the jb-weld is fully cured, I'd suggest adding oil and running the engine for a bit, then draining the oil and refilling. I doubt much cleaner would get in there, but considering these bikes don't take much oil it would be cheap insurance.
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:02 PM   #861
Hayduke
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Bluhduh Scored carb slide.....

Bonnie Abbzug's XT has been running progressively worse.... Since we bought the bike (used) we've had some issues with the bike stumbling at WOT when under load,(seems to be common). I did alot of playing around with jetting and pretty much had it solved. Jetting has been tricky because we live at 7,000', but even going out for a short half-day ride, our elevation can vary from 7,000 to 12,000' on a typical ride.

Anyway, lately she's been complaining that it is stumbling or cutting out more and more and it was having a hard time climbing. I adjusted the valves- a little more power climbing but still stumbling. Then I tried re-jetting. Leaner didn't help. Went richer- worse than before. I went back to what we had (120 main) but it is still there. So I pulled the slide and needle out, and noticed some pretty bad scoring on the slide. It looks really worn. The body of the carb looks really worn too. I rode the bike and noticed some really weird throttle responses- hanging rpms, hesitation when cracking the throttle, etc. Now I'm thinking the carb is just plain worn out.??? The bike has just over 7,000 um, hard miles on it. It's ridden in rough conditions alot and then it's expected to drone at 60+ on the highway for long distances (400 mile day is the longest. )

Anyone else had the carb slide wear out???

I think I'm resigned to replacing the carb with a new one.
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:29 PM   #862
Cigar Mike
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Question Hell, I don't know!

Hayduke,

I think more investigation is required. Did you do a complete inspection of all the components when the carb was off the bike?

I don't understand how the scoring on the side of the slide would effect operation at WOT.

The XT we have has twice that mileage with no problems. Most of the miles where put on between 1500 and 8000 feet. The bike is lean at 1500 and starting to run fat at 8000 feet. I will run well to just over 10,000 but will start to stumble at maintained WOT above 10000. This will vary in Ca depending on the time of year and what is being added to the fuel.

(Addig alcohol to gas is stupid. growing fuel instead of food is a bad idea)

I have the FMF and snorkel removed. The bike will not run at 10,000 with the snorkel installed. This is with the stock 125 main installed. I also have a uni filter installed for more air flow with the backfire screen removed.

In my unexpert opinion, the restricted exhaust is probably responsible for it not running well. But since we have never experienced any of the problems most people have with the XT I must not be qualified to solve these problems. I only know what works for me.

If you replace the carb though, go with the pumper.

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Old 06-26-2008, 12:59 PM   #863
WaterOx
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I have no idea what I'm doing, but...

Hayduke,

I have had a heck of a time getting the XT we bought (used) to run even half-decently. Idling problems, WOT problems, etc. I finally replaced the carb and petcock with stock units. After replacing the main jet with 122.5? it now runs fairly reliably but does exhibit a bit of the WOT stutter (but very little). As far as I can tell, the PO mod'd the exhaust (as it runs loud for such a little bike), cut the bottom half off the snorkel and mucked with the carb. We still have the exhaust and snorkel and I put in a uni filter. New carb is stock with exception of 122.5 main.

One problem I ran into, was using an in-line fuel filter. It seemed to cause inconsistent fuel delivery from out of the petcock? I removed it and now fuel delivery is full and consistent.

Anyway, I have a stock (dirty) carb you're welcome to cannibalize if you dare It likely needs some cleaning up (though I did run SeaFoam through it already) and you'll want to replace the black plastic piece with the one from yours. Let me know I'd be happy to send it to ya!

We're heading to Ouray/Silverton on a 10 day trip leaving Boulder July 4th and are taking the KLR and XT and hoping to hit Weston (or mosquito?), Hagerman, Schofield/Gothic?, and Owl Creek passes on the way down, then doing Cinnamon, Ophir and others while down there. Likely reverse the route on the way back. All depends on conditions of the passes, condition of the bikes and conditions of the riders!

If we hit Salida we'll be sure to stop in and say
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Old 06-26-2008, 02:30 PM   #864
norvegicus
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I've been searching here and at XT225.com for a while now and haven't seen anyone complain or solve the problem I'm having, a stumble at relatively low RPMs.

2006 XT225 with about 330 miles on it, I bought it a couple months ago with 126 miles. PO adjusted the pilot screw to 2.5 turns out but jets are stock, no other mods that I can see (I bought it from a shop, have never met the first owner).

WOT it runs great. Starts very easily and doesn't need more than 30 seconds to warm up. But cruising at about 1/3 to half throttle, say 30mph in third gear, it stumbles every few seconds, which makes it hard to regulate my speed on city streets, unless I down shift.

Also I'm only getting about 45-50mpg, I've had to switch to reserve at 92 and 95 miles and it took 2.05 gallons to fill back up.

I've tried going leaner on the pilot screw, now at 2 turns out, no change in stumble or starting, don't know about mpg yet.

Any ideas? I have been adding a little carb cleaner to the fuel in an attempt to clean out any gook. (tank was half full when I got it at 126 miles, so some of the gas in there was 2 years old.) With the last fillup I didn't add any, no change...

Elevation here is 800 feet.
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Old 06-26-2008, 03:24 PM   #865
autolycos
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Norvegicus, for 2 year old gas, and only running one tank through it, I'd say you probably would be time ahead to run 2 more tanks through it and see how it is... or take out and clean up the carb.
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Old 06-27-2008, 05:45 AM   #866
norvegicus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autolycos
Norvegicus, for 2 year old gas, and only running one tank through it, I'd say you probably would be time ahead to run 2 more tanks through it and see how it is... or take out and clean up the carb.

That's my plan, hope that's all it takes. I plan to rotate through a couple different fuel additives, SeaFoam, B12, etc. to try and clean it all out...maybe with the next tank I'll add extra...
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Old 06-28-2008, 09:33 AM   #867
RideAbout
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This is my "XT" 225. It's a 2004 TTR with a dualsport kit from www.procycle.us

It's become my favorite around town bike... when I can get my wife off of it.

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Old 06-28-2008, 09:47 AM   #868
Reposado1800
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Hayduke, its probably time for the Mikuni pumper carb. Save the jets from the old carb as they will work in the pumper too. I bet its the same price or cheaper than going to Yamaha for a new CV replacement... and you get wheelies!!!
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Old 06-28-2008, 09:45 PM   #869
RoughRider
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XT225 Jet Changing...

It woulda been nice if Yamaha had designed the carb bowl with a removable plug for easy jet chang-outs like the Honda XR's have. I have not found an easy/quick way to do it on my '07 model. It's a real pain. Is there an after market bowl available for the XT225 carb that has a removable bottom? I wonder if a Honda bowl would be interchangeable. Any suggestions?
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Old 07-03-2008, 01:13 PM   #870
Hayduke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayduke
Bonnie Abbzug's XT has been running progressively worse.... Since we bought the bike (used) we've had some issues with the bike stumbling at WOT when under load,(seems to be common). I did alot of playing around with jetting and pretty much had it solved. Jetting has been tricky because we live at 7,000', but even going out for a short half-day ride, our elevation can vary from 7,000 to 12,000' on a typical ride.

Anyway, lately she's been complaining that it is stumbling or cutting out more and more and it was having a hard time climbing. I adjusted the valves- a little more power climbing but still stumbling. Then I tried re-jetting. Leaner didn't help. Went richer- worse than before. I went back to what we had (120 main) but it is still there. So I pulled the slide and needle out, and noticed some pretty bad scoring on the slide. It looks really worn. The body of the carb looks really worn too. I rode the bike and noticed some really weird throttle responses- hanging rpms, hesitation when cracking the throttle, etc. Now I'm thinking the carb is just plain worn out.??? The bike has just over 7,000 um, hard miles on it. It's ridden in rough conditions alot and then it's expected to drone at 60+ on the highway for long distances (400 mile day is the longest. )

Anyone else had the carb slide wear out???

I think I'm resigned to replacing the carb with a new one.

Well, after Bonnie couldn't take it anymore, we replaced the carb with a new oem carb. Considered doing a pumper, but we wanted it going asap and to keep it stock. After replacing the carb, Bonnie took it for a ride...SUCCESS! She said it ran "like a new bike"!!!! Now back to
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