The official XT225 thread!

[Hatch]

Originally Posted by Trust

Jerry; do us a favor and write up a report w/ pics when you get the choke 'n 16t? A new thread with you installing them would be great! Help the rest of us with the choke bit too

Can do!

I didn't see this before I changed out the countershaft sprocket, but thats easy - loosen axle bolt, remove cover over sprocket, take 2 bolts outta sprocket, take circlip thingy off, remove sprocket, put new one in, circlip, bolts, cover, retighten wheel and make sure its true and stuff.

I also lost my dang camera when I did my valve job, inverted rear brake, replaced rear blinkers with flushmounts, installed a fuel filter, made the tool tube, recovered seat, etc. But I did find a great post on valve jobs by Klm4755 on xt225.com - Here.

So heres the choke pull procedure, ADV style (apologies for the shitty ass pics, my camera doesnt like nighttime):
First off, you gotta have the right tools. Stereo, beer, smokes, other stuff. Go ahead and crack one open, you're thirsty.


Remove the seat. Remember to keep hydrated!

tank off. beer me.

remove busted ass old choke cable with needlenose pliers.

The comparison revealed something weird - the old choke had a needle or something at the end, the new one doesnt.

screw new choke in. beer.

put all that shit back together, you're drunk ..i mean, done!

the tools needed?

This job is a 3 beer job, which puts it at a "easy" on the beer scale.

If you cant tell, im really bored and turned a 5 minute job into 30. easy as shit. but heres the lowdown, if you want to keep the sidecover on, dont do this. you wont be able to get to your choke. if that doesnt bother you, then go for it, its alot smoother action than the cable, and the lack of the needle thing at the end doesnt seem to affect it at all.

the 16 tooth countershaft? HIGHLY recommended.


Davis - great link man, thanks!

[moterbiker]

Hmmmm,
Maybe now that I have lost close to 50 pounds the bike might pull that 16t without me having to downshift at every slight incline

Ya know that means I just increased my horsepower by 50%

[norvegicus]

Originally Posted by Davis53

use this page to work on the carb

http://tw200forum.com/forums/28873/ShowPost.aspx

very nice, thanks!

[norvegicus]

Jerry what's your tool tube made of? I like it!

[Trust]

Okay - I know I've seen this posted somewhere before but can't find it. My exhaust header is glowing at night. I just checked the pilot screw tonight, and it was actually out too far - 3 and 3/4 turns. I reset it to 2 3/4, to give it a little richer setting and maybe take care of the glowing exhaust header, but riding home tonight it was still there. It's not molten red, but a dull red that makes me wonder.....

If the jetting is still stock, and the pilot screw is okay - what next? Pull the plug and check it? Check the valves? I'm at a loss here folks..... or is it okay like this? I have a picture around here somewhere...



***EDIT***
found the original post I was thinking of: Should your header pipe glow in the dark?

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Trust

it was actually out too far - 3 and 3/4 turns. I reset it to 2 3/4, to give it a little richer setting

Fewer turns is leaner not richer. Try the next size larger pilot jet.

[Hatch]

Originally Posted by norvegicus

Jerry what's your tool tube made of? I like it!

Thanks man, its just some 4" PVC from lowes with an endcap glued on and a pressure test plug on the opening end with some 10-12" hoseclamps around the subframe. All in all about 25 bucks for all the parts and maybe 15 minutes to do, add just a little for the OD green paint and drying time.


Also, my exhaust can get to the point of glowing dull red, Ive never worried about it. Should I?

[Trust]

Originally Posted by XTjerry

Thanks man, its just some 4" PVC from lowes with an endcap glued on and a pressure test plug on the opening end with some 10-12" hoseclamps around the subframe. All in all about 25 bucks for all the parts and maybe 15 minutes to do, add just a little for the OD green paint and drying time.


Also, my exhaust can get to the point of glowing dull red, Ive never worried about it. Should I?

I modified my post a few hits up; seems the consensus is to make sure you're not running lean, maybe up a size in jets after checking your valves, but it happens....


Jerry, let's talk paint - looks like the whole thing is a matte-type paint; does it disappear well into the darkness/woods? How about safety/visibility on the road?
Rattle-can? DIY? Clearcoat?

[Hatch]

great link trust.

paint is Krylon camoflage green ultra flat - from walmart. 3 bucks a can.


note - sand the hell outta the PVC, or the paint wont stick well, even still, it isnt hard to scratch it off - my whole bike is painted with primer so im used to touching the primer up every once in a while.
I would say do 2 coats as well, let the first dry reeeeallly good before you do the second. DAMHIK

[Randy]

After sanding you might also consider applying a coat of flat Fusion paint before the camo. The fusion will act as a plastic primer that will allow subsequent coats of other paints to adhere better. Its still painted plastic so it won't hold up forever but it should help it be a little less prone to peeling off. Of course they may even offer the Fusion line of paint in camo colors, never checked.

[Trust]

Rear shock question here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...25#post7677425

[Hatch]

Originally Posted by Trust

does it disappear well into the darkness/woods? How about safety/visibility on the road?

Forgot to answer yer questions here - It is pretty much invisible in the woods, as every inch of my bike is matte - the only thing that stands out is lights and mirror. This also goes for onroad - I get nearly run over all the time, cause I aint in a giant slick white SUV people in this town rarely notice a tiny dark colored bike.

So recently I have drilled out the exhast with a 3/4 bit and left the spark arrester out (I kinda destroyed it while removing it), I have already removed the snorkel, turned the pilot screw out 3 turns, and now this thing seems to be running hot - it backfires on deceleration, the oil gets so hot that its hard to switch gears after a while, and the spark plug is burnt up. I noticed the top of the piston seems pretty blackened from the hole where the plug goes - maybe burnin oil too. I have a couple oil leaks, 1 from the front of the crankcase, 1 from the shifter seal. I just add oil every few rides, and make sure to check it every time I ride and keep a lil bit of oil in the tool tube.

Its getting to the point im kindof afraid to run it much till I get this jetting thing down. Im thinking im gonna go to a 132.5 main with a 42.5 pilot, but cant seem to find where to get em - I know xt225.com people have gotten them from thumpertalk and jetsRus, but neither site has listings that actually say theyre for a Mikuni BST34 carb.

[jeffk14]

Originally Posted by Barnone

Added some panniers to my XT225 today. They are Plano dry boxes. I used u bolts to attach them to the grab handles.

[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Hey Barnone, nice work. That setup really appeals to my chea...err FRUGAL nature. Are those Plano model 1812 or 1612 cases? Where did you find them? Also, do the lids clear the Borrego rack when opening them? I've got the same rack and may plagarize your setup.

[Reposado1800]

The dealer should have a jet assortment. An independent bike shop will have jets as well. They usually get the big box from Sudco which has a bunch of each size imaginable.

[Barnone]

Originally Posted by jeffk14

Hey Barnone, nice work. That setup really appeals to my chea...err FRUGAL nature. Are those Plano model 1812 or 1612 cases? Where did you find them? Also, do the lids clear the Borrego rack when opening them? I've got the same rack and may plagarize your setup.

Not sure about the model # but they are 15"L x 8"W x 10"H. I got the Plano dry boxes at Bass Pro Shop.They do clear the rack.You might look at the Spud boxes at http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/products/camping/dry_boxes.html since they come in black .