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Old 08-15-2008, 06:31 PM   #976
moterbiker
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Hmmmm,
Maybe now that I have lost close to 50 pounds the bike might pull that 16t without me having to downshift at every slight incline

Ya know that means I just increased my horsepower by 50%
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Old 08-18-2008, 07:13 PM   #977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis53
use this page to work on the carb

http://tw200forum.com/forums/28873/ShowPost.aspx
very nice, thanks!
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Old 08-18-2008, 07:17 PM   #978
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Jerry what's your tool tube made of? I like it!
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Old 08-18-2008, 08:05 PM   #979
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glowing header

Okay - I know I've seen this posted somewhere before but can't find it. My exhaust header is glowing at night. I just checked the pilot screw tonight, and it was actually out too far - 3 and 3/4 turns. I reset it to 2 3/4, to give it a little richer setting and maybe take care of the glowing exhaust header, but riding home tonight it was still there. It's not molten red, but a dull red that makes me wonder.....

If the jetting is still stock, and the pilot screw is okay - what next? Pull the plug and check it? Check the valves? I'm at a loss here folks..... or is it okay like this? I have a picture around here somewhere...



***EDIT***
found the original post I was thinking of: Should your header pipe glow in the dark?
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Trust screwed with this post 08-19-2008 at 08:50 AM
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Old 08-18-2008, 08:15 PM   #980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trust
it was actually out too far - 3 and 3/4 turns. I reset it to 2 3/4, to give it a little richer setting
Fewer turns is leaner not richer. Try the next size larger pilot jet.
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Old 08-18-2008, 08:57 PM   #981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norvegicus
Jerry what's your tool tube made of? I like it!
Thanks man, its just some 4" PVC from lowes with an endcap glued on and a pressure test plug on the opening end with some 10-12" hoseclamps around the subframe. All in all about 25 bucks for all the parts and maybe 15 minutes to do, add just a little for the OD green paint and drying time.


Also, my exhaust can get to the point of glowing dull red, Ive never worried about it. Should I?
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Old 08-19-2008, 08:19 AM   #982
Trust
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XTjerry
Thanks man, its just some 4" PVC from lowes with an endcap glued on and a pressure test plug on the opening end with some 10-12" hoseclamps around the subframe. All in all about 25 bucks for all the parts and maybe 15 minutes to do, add just a little for the OD green paint and drying time.


Also, my exhaust can get to the point of glowing dull red, Ive never worried about it. Should I?
I modified my post a few hits up; seems the consensus is to make sure you're not running lean, maybe up a size in jets after checking your valves, but it happens....


Jerry, let's talk paint - looks like the whole thing is a matte-type paint; does it disappear well into the darkness/woods? How about safety/visibility on the road?
Rattle-can? DIY? Clearcoat?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by focallength View Post
If you dont remember, sky, ground,sky,ground,sky, ground, treeeeeee! You passed out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkidMarx View Post
Herding drunk cats drunk. That takes it up a notch.
Give me riding.

Trust screwed with this post 08-19-2008 at 08:52 AM
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Old 08-19-2008, 02:14 PM   #983
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great link trust.

paint is Krylon camoflage green ultra flat - from walmart. 3 bucks a can.


note - sand the hell outta the PVC, or the paint wont stick well, even still, it isnt hard to scratch it off - my whole bike is painted with primer so im used to touching the primer up every once in a while.
I would say do 2 coats as well, let the first dry reeeeallly good before you do the second. DAMHIK
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Old 08-19-2008, 04:49 PM   #984
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After sanding you might also consider applying a coat of flat Fusion paint before the camo. The fusion will act as a plastic primer that will allow subsequent coats of other paints to adhere better. Its still painted plastic so it won't hold up forever but it should help it be a little less prone to peeling off. Of course they may even offer the Fusion line of paint in camo colors, never checked.
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:11 PM   #985
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Rear shock preload

Rear shock question here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...25#post7677425
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Buy my DR350 ...and... Got any Pink gear for sale?
Quote:
Originally Posted by focallength View Post
If you dont remember, sky, ground,sky,ground,sky, ground, treeeeeee! You passed out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkidMarx View Post
Herding drunk cats drunk. That takes it up a notch.
Give me riding.
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Old 08-25-2008, 12:30 PM   #986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trust
does it disappear well into the darkness/woods? How about safety/visibility on the road?
Forgot to answer yer questions here - It is pretty much invisible in the woods, as every inch of my bike is matte - the only thing that stands out is lights and mirror. This also goes for onroad - I get nearly run over all the time, cause I aint in a giant slick white SUV people in this town rarely notice a tiny dark colored bike.

So recently I have drilled out the exhast with a 3/4 bit and left the spark arrester out (I kinda destroyed it while removing it), I have already removed the snorkel, turned the pilot screw out 3 turns, and now this thing seems to be running hot - it backfires on deceleration, the oil gets so hot that its hard to switch gears after a while, and the spark plug is burnt up. I noticed the top of the piston seems pretty blackened from the hole where the plug goes - maybe burnin oil too. I have a couple oil leaks, 1 from the front of the crankcase, 1 from the shifter seal. I just add oil every few rides, and make sure to check it every time I ride and keep a lil bit of oil in the tool tube.

Its getting to the point im kindof afraid to run it much till I get this jetting thing down. Im thinking im gonna go to a 132.5 main with a 42.5 pilot, but cant seem to find where to get em - I know xt225.com people have gotten them from thumpertalk and jetsRus, but neither site has listings that actually say theyre for a Mikuni BST34 carb.
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Old 08-25-2008, 01:15 PM   #987
jeffk14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnone
Added some panniers to my XT225 today. They are Plano dry boxes. I used u bolts to attach them to the grab handles.

[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Hey Barnone, nice work. That setup really appeals to my chea...err FRUGAL nature. Are those Plano model 1812 or 1612 cases? Where did you find them? Also, do the lids clear the Borrego rack when opening them? I've got the same rack and may plagarize your setup.
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Old 08-25-2008, 02:07 PM   #988
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The dealer should have a jet assortment. An independent bike shop will have jets as well. They usually get the big box from Sudco which has a bunch of each size imaginable.
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:13 PM   #989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffk14
Hey Barnone, nice work. That setup really appeals to my chea...err FRUGAL nature. Are those Plano model 1812 or 1612 cases? Where did you find them? Also, do the lids clear the Borrego rack when opening them? I've got the same rack and may plagarize your setup.
Not sure about the model # but they are 15"L x 8"W x 10"H. I got the Plano dry boxes at Bass Pro Shop.They do clear the rack.You might look at the Spud boxes at http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/products/camping/dry_boxes.html since they come in black .
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Old 08-26-2008, 12:34 AM   #990
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XT225 jetting & carb problems

I have a "07 XT225 I purchased new. I have been reviewing different sites for tips on the XT225. There is mostly praise for the bike, but two major problems have been brought up. One, the breaking spokes (rear wheel mostly) when bike is ridden on rough terrain. I have decided to take preventive action on this by having Buchanan's Spoke & Rim Inc. re-spoke the wheels with larger, stronger stainless steel spokes. The other is the carb problems, the extreme low power, cutting out at wide-open throttle, etc., when operated at higher elevations, 7000+ft. This high altitude problem is kind of important to me since I am planning a trip to Ushuaia at the southern end of Argentina. Going inland off the coasts on this trip involves some extreme altitudes in Chile & Bolivia for sure. I've noticed that some people have had a lot of problems getting the XT225 sorted out for the altitude problems & others don't seem to have the problems. I think it was the Adventure Rider Site that Iread there was an XT225 that was ridden to the top of Pikes Peak by a guy with his girl friend on back & I guess he didn't have too much of a problem! I'm thinking that a lot of the altitude jetting problems come from owners that have done modifications to the air box, holes & such, & to the exhaust. I have left my air box & muffler stock so shouldn't have to worry about compensating for anything there. I am going to first check that the carb components (diaphragm, coasting enricher, starter plunger) are OK & functioning. Next I will check the float operation & float gas level. Also will do the jetting with a clean newly oiled air filter. As far as my initial carb settings, they are stock a 125 main & a stock jet needle & a 40 pilot jet. Since I live in Las Cruces, New Mexico at 4000 ft. it is the same fuel/air ratio wise as have the bike jetted with a 130 main at sea level (as shown by my Mikuni jetting Pocket Calculator). I have gotten a set of 115 & 120 main jets already. Here is something you may want to check. The Mikuni BST34, CV type carb calls for the small round headed jets. See this Mikuni Jet Site at http://www.powersportrider.com/cgi-bin/zcatjpg . You don't want to use one of the other two type jets that other Makuni Carbs use, the hex headed & large round headed jets. To tell the truth I don't remember if the threads are the same or not. It could be that they would fit & mayde work, but different types of jets, even with the same number do not always flow the same. As I remember the jet number is not a set physical size, but a certain flow rate at a certain pressure differential across the jet. I did notice a site where you could get jets for the XT225, the main jet they showed was a large round head, the wrong jet for the XT225 carb. Here is the site: http://enduco.com/oscom1/index.php?cPath=21&osCsid=1b8521bc8c44f81862f032b4acf6017e .
I was going to buy the jets via Thumper Talk, but their supplier (Parts Unlimited) only sold them in packages of 4 @ $2.25/jet & with shipping it would have cost about $26 for the 115 & 120 jets. I got them at the local Yamaha dealer for $6 each.
Anyway in order to check how the bike acts I need to ride some high altitude roads. There are two places that are about 100 miles from Las Cruces, the Cloadcroft NM area that has roads at about 9000 ft. & Sierra Blanca Mt. near Ruidoso, NM that has a road that goes to about 11500 ft. If the bike works all right there I may bring it to Colorado Springs & go up Pikes Peak, 14000+ ft., which would be a good test. One more thing to remember is that changing to a smaller main jet at higher altitude really only effects the last 1/4 of throttle opening. The jet needle & the needle jet are what mostly control the mid-range (1/4 to 3/4 throttle opening). So to lean this area down you really need to have a needle you can lower or a thicker needle you can substitute. You all that have shimmed your carbs needle up higher to richen the mid-range, this could be the problem you’re having with the high altitude running.
Anyway those are my thoughts on this carb/altitude problem. What do you think?

PeteC PS: Where can I get adjustable jet needles or thicker profile needles?
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