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Old 12-25-2006, 02:57 PM   #46
PackMule
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Thanks for the detailed write-up. I'm going to have to revisit it a few times to get things squared in my head, methinks.
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Old 12-26-2006, 08:39 PM   #47
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So help me out here Luke

Does a Stator or slash R/R hold (excited electrons) until they are needed? I hope so. Have you read the group buy thread in Thumpers, and was moved to Venders? I am hoping that when there is not a load on the stator that there will not be any (killing) heat generated to the the R/R.

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Old 12-26-2006, 11:10 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoggjaww
Does a Stator or slash R/R hold (excited electrons) until they are needed? I hope so. Have you read the group buy thread in Thumpers, and was moved to Venders? I am hoping that when there is not a load on the stator that there will not be any (killing) heat generated to the the R/R.

Harry
Sorry to say, no. If your new stator puts out more power then the old one, you are going to have to deal with extra heat in the R/R. The good news is that if you don't use all the power the stator wants to generate the difference does not all end up in your regulator. The regulator actually short-circuits the stator coil for a brief period of time. Most of the heat generated by the short-circuit is dissipated in the stator, but it's cooled by the engine oil and can presumably handle it. There is extra power dissipated in the regulator, but better designed regulator will dissipate less power than others.

You want to know if your regulator will survive with a powerful stator and not much load? Obviously I can't say- but a low load won't help. If it is designed for this sort of stator it shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 01-04-2007, 06:03 AM   #49
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Okay... I havent measured anything new yet, dont have any suitable resistors, but I have been doing some counting with the numbers I had. Right now I think 10% less turns will be a good compromise, and 1,0mm wire instead of 0,7 (meaning exactly half the resistance for the same length of wire). Should make a nice improvement and will hopefully be more than enough to power the HID light.

Thankyou again, info like yours is priceless when you need it!

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Old 01-04-2007, 07:33 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
The regulator actually short-circuits the stator coil for a brief period of time. Most of the heat generated by the short-circuit is dissipated in the stator, .
I still have not gotten a chance to test this, but one member PMed me with the advice that my stator may be too beefy for my needs and thus the reg/ shuts it down full time. This would also be supported by the heated/ electric burning smell I get when running the DC reg and not just AC. His thoughts were that the stator I rewond may be trying to dump over 250 watts into a system wanting 50 watts and the reg is rated for 150 watts and because of the extra 50 watts it is shutting down to save itself. Makes sense to me, then couple that with what you are saying from above, the stator is disipating the heat from the extra 200 watts and may be burning the epoxy.

I guess now I am going to pop the side cover off and get a look at the stator to see if it may show signs of overheat.

This really has been a good thread, thanks
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:15 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyk7
.....This would also be supported by the heated/ electric burning smell I get when running the DC reg and not just AC......
Let the magic smoke out and all bets are off....

If you are feeling daring, fire the bike up as-is and check to see if anything feels like it's overheating. Start with the regulator, of course, but also check the wires going between it and the stator.

I don't know what to look for to see if the stator has overheated (besides the obvious)


Good luck, and let us know what you find out.
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:27 PM   #52
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I hope to get time this weekend to put it back on DC, right now it is on the stock AC reg only and works fine, and the Reg does not overheat nor do I get that heated smell. so far the smoke has stayed where it should, and the only smoke I have let out was the plastic headlight lens. who would have figured a 55/65 watt cool blue halogen bulb would get so hot,
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Old 03-06-2008, 08:39 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
I hope!

Questions? Comments?

Luke, great article – thanks for the education.
I’ve an XR650R and have unwound the stock 4 poles and gone with a 10 pole set up and a pure AC system. A friend recently purchased an XR650R and wants to do the same – however, I’m second guessing my approach and considering suggesting simply leaving the stock 4 poles alone and winding the 6 empty poles to give 2 circuits but combine the circuits externally to get a single AC circuit. Query – will the output of the combined circuits (4 poles and 6 poles) be the same as a rewound single circuit (10 poles). The reason I ‘m considering the 2 circuit approach is that if a failure occurs, one can simply disconnect the failed circuit and limp home with the remaining circuit – at reduced power, I know, but better reduced than none at all. I’d appreciate hearing your thoughts on this approach. Thanks.

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Old 03-06-2008, 10:26 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arrcrussell
Luke, great article – thanks for the education.
I’ve an XR650R and have unwound the stock 4 poles and gone with a 10 pole set up and a pure AC system. A friend recently purchased an XR650R and wants to do the same – however, I’m second guessing my approach and considering suggesting simply leaving the stock 4 poles alone and winding the 6 empty poles to give 2 circuits but combine the circuits externally to get a single AC circuit. Query – will the output of the combined circuits (4 poles and 6 poles) be the same as a rewound single circuit (10 poles). The reason I ‘m considering the 2 circuit approach is that if a failure occurs, one can simply disconnect the failed circuit and limp home with the remaining circuit – at reduced power, I know, but better reduced than none at all. I’d appreciate hearing your thoughts on this approach. Thanks.
Yes, that should work. I think it would be best if the windings both had the same number of turns. Since the stock windings are 300 turns, put 50 turns on each of the other six poles. Connect the two windings in parallel. The polarity of the windings will matter. If it doesn't work when you first hook it up, reverse the connection to one of the windings.

You will lose a little power due to the fact that the stock wire is a little bit on the thin side but that shouldn't be a big deal.
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Old 07-01-2008, 06:01 PM   #55
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Maybe it was posted, but can someone tell me why my new (used) stator has three wires whereas the old one had only two? It's a DR350, and was previously a dirt only bike, no battery, etc. I am working on adding bits as I can, and I just got a used stator from an S model, that had battery, etc.
I wasn't really planning on using a battery, but maybe I can squeeze one on somewhere, but it's not looking good. Maybe a cap would work though.

Well, i haven't been able to turn up a stock regulator/rectifier mess, but I did buy a rectifier at Radio Shack. They were all out of regulators though.
Would I be better off getting one from another bike at the boneyard?

A while ago I took off the stator that's on the bike and was sorely dissapointed to find only a few posts were wired at all. I guess that's what you get with a dirt bike though. That's why I got the other style stator, hoping it would help with some added load. I want to put some different and additional lights on, such as turn signals, and a more suitable headlight.
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Old 02-10-2009, 12:36 PM   #56
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Dented VW,

that sounds like a 3 phase stator versus the typical dirt DR single phase.
You can use it, just use a regulator/rectifier from a street bike, such as this. ( notice the 3 yellow wires)

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread....ight=rectifier

sho12

Could you post a pic of the stator? and or count the terminals that are wound?

IM wondering if I can wind my dirt 350 stator, to be 3 phase, since it will be assemytrical due to the CDI charge winding in there.

street bikes normally have 3 phase stators, right?

dirt bikes, do they normally?

Luke, any input on this?
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:01 AM   #57
dentedvw
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Fantastic, thank you very much!

I have the dirt model off the bike, and the SE model on there already, since last fall. I doubt the picture of the dirt would help you, as that is what you have already.

I had quite a bit of trouble with electrics in November, the last time I got to ride the bike at all, and haven't touched it since. My plans to fix it up over the winter have fallen apart, as I purchased a more suitable bike. I may still finish it up though, it's a fun bike.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:47 AM   #58
Luke OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake

IM wondering if I can wind my dirt 350 stator, to be 3 phase, since it will be assemytrical due to the CDI charge winding in there.

street bikes normally have 3 phase stators, right?

dirt bikes, do they normally?

Luke, any input on this?

I don't think there's any rule to whether a type of bike has a 2 or 3 phase stator. I've never heard of a three phase stator on a bike without e-start, but that's as close to a rule as I could get. Otherwise, pretty much anything goes.

Three wires doesn't necessarily mean three phases. It could just be two two-phase windings, like on a KTM RFS stator.

If you want to convert from two to three phase, you'll need a different stator core or flywheel. The number of phases is determined by the position of the magnets relative to the poles on the core.
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Old 02-20-2009, 12:10 PM   #59
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I have an old C102 honda that was originally 6 volt. It's a electric start for a 50cc, which seems like overkill, but it works.

I've also got a bunch of unused 7 cell 1.25 nominal volt per cell Nimh battery flight packs from my electric model airplane days that are unused. I've converted the bike's electrical system over to this roughly 8~9 voltage to not have to buy a new 6 volt 11 amp hour battery. The batteries I'm using are 2 amp hour cells and I'm using 2 in parallel.

Now this battery package spins the motor over with a lot of authority, and with new 12 volt bulbs it runs the bulbs at a fair brightness. I'm sort of concerned about the lack of regulation in this system and that there's no regulator that works on a 9 volt system. So I'm balancing the load of consumers to the battery to keep the voltage so I don't bake the NiMH cells.

Since the system is going to be run as a street bike with the lights on all the time, I'm wondering if I might have some over head that can allow for additional small voltage consumers like some small cell phone or camera rechargers.

Unfortunately I've not done a current voltage load test of this system, so I'm going on the nominal use of the original 6 volt system which was a 25 watt headlight, with a standard 6 volt 1155 tail lite. No turn signals in the system yet.

Not to get long winded, and I hope your eyes haven't glazed over yet, but am I getting started at this and trying keep it simple enough to not have to do a complete rewind of the stator.

Thanks for your stator tutoring, BTW
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Old 02-21-2009, 12:27 AM   #60
XRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget Boy
I got lost half way through your article.. thanks for the effort!

So, why do some bikes have a stator and others have an alternator? On my GS, they could have gone with a stator where the belt pulley is instead of an alternator.. what gives?
The stator is part of the alternator. An alternator is simply an AC generator and the stator is the static or stationary windings.
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