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Old 11-15-2009, 04:43 PM   #76
Reposado1800
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I would like to see what Honda racing did to make the CRF450X run those big Baja headlights. They would not let anyone in on that secret.
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:05 PM   #77
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http://www.teal.com/products/App%20note%20AN-15.htm



Quote:
Originally Posted by D.T.
How do you wind a 3 phase stator in Delta configuration?
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:07 PM   #78
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the smaller the wire you wind with the more limited current capacity you will end up with.

it might make more PEAK voltage, but at a very small current ( small wires wont carry big current)



Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S
I always thought you were better off to go with smaller diameter wire when making your stator windings. The other side that I didn't see mentioned in this thread is the strength of the magnets. If you could build a flywheel up that uses rare earth magnets or whatever the strongest magnets you can get in combination with a rewound stator then your should have optimal output.....at a loss of engine power of course.
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:19 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake
Yeah, I know this already, but how do you wrap the wires around, say a 18 pole laminated core? Where do you tie the wires together? I have done a Wye wrap around before.

I'll look myself...

Something like this:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=725419

The pictures aren't showing up though.
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D.T. screwed with this post 11-15-2009 at 05:33 PM
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Old 11-15-2009, 06:37 PM   #80
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Luke
In post # 29 you say that even with a battery You should install a capacitor also, Do you install the capacitor to the hot side of the battery.
Hot wire from the stator to the + on the capacitor, thru the capacitor on to the + on the battery?
Or is there another way to install the capacitor
Thanks
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Old 11-15-2009, 06:40 PM   #81
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you wind them the same way, the difference is in how the ends of the 3 ( phases) coils are connected.

for instance, wind all 3 phases as you normally would, leave extra length on all 6 ends of wire, and stick them ALL thru the stator cover grommet, then you have options to wire it either way externally.

get it?



Quote:
Originally Posted by D.T.
Yeah, I know this already, but how do you wrap the wires around, say a 18 pole laminated core? Where do you tie the wires together? I have done a Wye wrap around before.

I'll look myself...

Something like this:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=725419

The pictures aren't showing up though.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:44 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huggybear
Luke
In post # 29 you say that even with a battery You should install a capacitor also, Do you install the capacitor to the hot side of the battery.
Hot wire from the stator to the + on the capacitor, thru the capacitor on to the + on the battery?
Or is there another way to install the capacitor
Thanks

I would install it parallel to the battery. So + on the capacitor to + on the battery, - on the capacitor to - on the battery. You're describing a series connection which won't work at all.

In retrospect, I probably shouldn't recommend it. It's not at all necessary for a working system, but I like the belt & suspenders approach. It's really best for cheap dual sport kit battery packs. Otherwise, just put your time and money into a better quality battery.
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Old 11-16-2009, 05:57 AM   #83
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Thanks Luke
I had just removed the capacitor and installed a ES4LBS battery on My WR400 with a Malcom Smith Dual Sport Kit and wasn't sure if I should hook the capacitor back up with the battery
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Old 11-17-2009, 06:16 AM   #84
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The other possibility is to lengthen your stator cover, flywheel, and add a second row of coils.....a little extreme perhaps.
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:47 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke
I would install it parallel to the battery. So + on the capacitor to + on the battery, - on the capacitor to - on the battery. You're describing a series connection which won't work at all.

In retrospect, I probably shouldn't recommend it. It's not at all necessary for a working system, but I like the belt & suspenders approach. It's really best for cheap dual sport kit battery packs. Otherwise, just put your time and money into a better quality battery.
what Luke is suggesting (holler at me if I'm wrong) is an AC filter setup.

Capacitors don't pass DC, so putting it in series like you described will only allow current flow until the cap is charged up.

Parallel as Like suggested is the same as cap + to battery + and cap - to ground ... what this does is provide an AC drain to ground for any neg pulse noise that gets past the rectifier.
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Old 11-21-2009, 08:18 PM   #86
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I have the Electrosport ESG 950 hi output stator designed to be a plug and play unit for one of the big Yamaha 700CC 4wheelers. It mounts right up to the stator cover on my 640A feeding into a voltage regulator which is good for 450 watts off of a 950.

I ran this setup on my '03 640A for a grand total of 10 minutes until I had a mechanical failure in the valvetrain so I can't speak for the reliability or longevity of the E'sport.

I'd like to put this rig into an '07 640A.

The hopped up stator is supposed to make another 100 to 150 watts than the stock 200w 640A stator. My main concern is the CDI, or black box.

I do have a spare CDI that is known to be good, but what are the chances I burn up the CDI with the hot stator?

Anyone think I could run a CDI out of the KTM 950?

Dirty
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:51 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
I have the Electrosport ESG 950 hi output stator designed to be a plug and play unit for one of the big Yamaha 700CC 4wheelers. It mounts right up to the stator cover on my 640A feeding into a voltage regulator which is good for 450 watts off of a 950.

I ran this setup on my '03 640A for a grand total of 10 minutes until I had a mechanical failure in the valvetrain so I can't speak for the reliability or longevity of the E'sport.

I'd like to put this rig into an '07 640A.

The hopped up stator is supposed to make another 100 to 150 watts than the stock 200w 640A stator. My main concern is the CDI, or black box.

I do have a spare CDI that is known to be good, but what are the chances I burn up the CDI with the hot stator?

Anyone think I could run a CDI out of the KTM 950?

Dirty

It's probably fine. I would say certainly fine, but bad luck seems to follow that stator. The CDI feeds off the 12V from the battery, so as long as the voltage isn't high enough to cook the battery or blow out the headlights it will be fine. That's only going to happen if the 950 regulator gives up, and it's a tough one.

It's unlikely the 950 CDI will work. Unless it happens to have the same crank angle pickup on the flywheel, and be happy with firing just a single cyninder instead of two.
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Old 11-24-2009, 03:35 AM   #88
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This is all really neat stuff. I'm actually in a class all about electromagnetic design here at Berkeley right now!

Here's a pretty useful chart about motor configurations:
http://www.gobrushless.com/kb/index....=Winding_Chart

GoBrushless also sells little motor kits for ~$30 if you want to experiment with winding up motors and how it works.

I guess I should take the initiative and draw up some nice schematics for Wye and Delta wound motors of various poles and slots....


Not to sidetrack too much, but couldn't the regulator be replaced with a step-down DC-DC converter to liberate more power?
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Old 05-10-2010, 03:37 PM   #89
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I beg your excuse but I have a problem with a WR450 that is able to start using the kickstart but show no spark while using the Electric starter... Any ideas

I have use a new torque limiter.
New coil
New CDI unit
change the Diodes
etc.
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Old 05-10-2010, 04:51 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2strokefreak
I beg your excuse but I have a problem with a WR450 that is able to start using the kickstart but show no spark while using the Electric starter... Any ideas

I have use a new torque limiter.
New coil
New CDI unit
change the Diodes
etc.
Probably not a stator issue, you should start a new thread asking that question, you'll get more responses.
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