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Old 10-07-2013, 10:11 AM   #4036
EarlB3
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Cry Fork Overhaul - oops!!

I stupidly used OLD thread lock on the fork tube Allen bolt (at bottom of fork tube). I noticed an hour after I had done it that the tester thread lock I had saved was still runny. No big deal-Autozone is close by. I get some new thread lock and loosen the bolts, but they will only loosen. They will not come all the way off!!! I even tried inserting the springs. I realy want to re-seat these w good, new thread lock now, but when I turn the hex driver I just hear the oil lock piece spinning in the fork tube.
Any ideas?
Thanks!!
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:21 AM   #4037
EarlB3
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Cry

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadly View Post
I got the front end back together on my Nighthawk today. You guys were right! Installing the progressive fork springs turned out to be an easy job.

We had to remove the cap at the top of each fork. Then we dumped the contents of the fork tube into a pan for inspection. We didn’t see anything that might look abnormal at this point:





We pumped the fork tube up and down a few times then collapsed it completely and poured what little fluid was left in the tube into the pan.
According to the paper work that came with the Progressive spring kit I need to cut a spacer for each fork 3.870” in length. The spacer is just some PVC pipe that is supplied with the kit.






I loaded the spacers one at a time into the chuck on my lathe and cut them to finish size. This step was probably unnecessary but I wanted the ends to be perfectly square.






We then poured new fluid into the fork tubes and pumped each one a few times to get it circulating, they took about 15oz each. With the tube completely collapsed I lowered a steel rule down into each tube about 5.500” inches. We adjusted the fluid level until the end of the steel rule had just barley touched the fluid at the 5.500” inch mark. The factory specifications require that the fluid level be at the 5.400” mark but Progressive recommends a maximum of 5.500” because the new springs will displace more fluid.







We dropped the new spring into each fork with the tight wound end pointing down and placed a washer on top of the spring which was also provided in the kit. Then we added the new PVC spacers we made and tightened everything back up. We had to be careful at this point to not cross thread the cap when we reassembled everything. The torque specification for the end cap is 17lbs.
We mounted the tubes on the bike and re-installed the front wheel to complete the fork mod of project “Wee-Hawk”.

The new springs are definitely much stiffer after the first inch or two of travel than the stock springs were. With the stock springs I could hold the front brake, rock the bike from front to back real hard and the forks would bottom out. I could not get the new Progressive springs to bottom out using this same technique. I cant wait until I get the rear end of the bike done so I can test ride it. It’s going to be a whole different bike from the feel of things.

The only odd thing that we ran into on this project was when we dumped the fluid from the second fork into the pan. This was the brake caliper fork, the fluid was real dark grey, almost black (it also smelled bad). I have never seen any signs of this fork leaking but it didn’t appear to have as much fluid in it as the other one did. We found this to be strange but everything else seems to be fine with the fork. I bought some extra fluid so I used some of this to flush the fork tube out several times before refilling the tube to spec.

Notice the dark fluid in the pan as it mixes with the lighter fluid from the first fork we did.



My Nighthawk is an 02’ model and I have never changed the fork fluid before I’m now thinking I will start changing it every couple of years or so….

P.S... I got one hand guard permanently mounted today and hope to have the other one done tomorrow with a few photos.
Im new to the site and tried to post this as a reply to your fork re-build post, but it went to the general forum. I will try again here:

I stupidly used OLD thread lock on the fork tube Allen bolt (at bottom of fork tube). I noticed an hour after I had done it that the tester thread lock I had saved was still runny. No big deal-Autozone is close by. I get some new thread lock and loosen the bolts, but they will only loosen. They will not come all the way off!!! I even tried inserting the springs. I realy want to re-seat these w good, new thread lock now, but when I turn the hex driver I just hear the oil lock piece spinning in the fork tube.
Any ideas?
Thanks!!
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:17 AM   #4038
The Kurgan
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The fluid in the brake caliper side fork always turns black/grey early... a known characteristic of this model. It may be due to increased flexing (from braking action) and/or increased heating on that side (again, from braking action). I did my fork oil this year, and mine is an '01... and the left tube oil was grey (and smelled) and the right tube oil looked like new. BTW, I used a hacksaw for the spacers as I also did the Progressive spring upgrade. Night and day improvement. While you're in there, you might as well do the seals and dust covers.
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:31 AM   #4039
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Hey I just wanted to drop a note here about my ride report currently underway. I thought it would be relevant to this thread since I rode my '93 Nighthawk. I hope you enjoy!

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=925184
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:27 AM   #4040
EarlB3
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Question Installing AIRBOX: Anyone....?

1. Secured the carbs to head
2. Secured Air intakes to carbs
3. put thin film of fork oil all around the openings of the air cleaner connecting tubes which connect to air box.
4. Trying to WEDGE the air box onto the air cleaner conecting tube (UNSUCCESSFULLY do far) :(


Im lost. Any ideas?

http://youtu.be/h8y6CXDn9tE
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:03 AM   #4041
ridewv
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I had the same problem. What finally worked for me to get everything connected was to start at the back and then attaching the bank of carbs to the head last. I also had another set of hands while I had mine inside the airbox.
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:14 PM   #4042
drdubb
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I use ratchet straps to pull things together. Sometimes a mechanics pick set coms in handy.
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:54 PM   #4043
OHjim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewv View Post
I also had another set of hands while I had mine inside the airbox.
Where did you get them? I sure could use some.
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:00 PM   #4044
DustyRags
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHjim View Post
Where did you get them? I sure could use some.
eBay.
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Old 10-20-2013, 08:42 PM   #4045
ZJeepMI
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Picked up my second bike today, a 1993 Nighthawk 750 with 9700 miles. Real clean bike, older guy owned it for 10 years. Big upgrade from my previous TW200 (oddly enough my insurance actually went DOWN). Seems to run very well. Only issues I've noticed after 50 miles is that there is a wobble if you let go of the bars at 40-45 (ideas?), and there is a very, very slight ticking sound coming from the top right side of the engine. Very minor, probably nothing. Sounds a million times better than my TW. It's a commuter bike for me that will see maybe 3000 per year so I'm not concerned.

Seems like a great bike though, a lot of power, handles good, very smooth engine/transmission.
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:46 AM   #4046
nbsdave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJeepMI View Post
Picked up my second bike today, a 1993 Nighthawk 750 with 9700 miles. Real clean bike, older guy owned it for 10 years. Big upgrade from my previous TW200 (oddly enough my insurance actually went DOWN). Seems to run very well. Only issues I've noticed after 50 miles is that there is a wobble if you let go of the bars at 40-45 (ideas?), and there is a very, very slight ticking sound coming from the top right side of the engine. Very minor, probably nothing. Sounds a million times better than my TW. It's a commuter bike for me that will see maybe 3000 per year so I'm not concerned.

Seems like a great bike though, a lot of power, handles good, very smooth engine/transmission.


congrats on the new bike

change all the fluids right away, just do it
check the age of the tires and check for cracking, new would be a good idea
old bikes with low miles almost always need the carbs done as sitting lets them gum up, try some seafoam in the gas.
it might be the fork oil needs changed also, there is good info on the Nighthawk here: http://nighthawk-forums.com/index.php
since it will be an almost daily rider for you, do this stuff right away

there are many miles left on your new one, enjoy
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:56 AM   #4047
RABBIT170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJeepMI View Post
Picked up my second bike today, a 1993 Nighthawk 750 with 9700 miles. Real clean bike, older guy owned it for 10 years. Big upgrade from my previous TW200 (oddly enough my insurance actually went DOWN). Seems to run very well. Only issues I've noticed after 50 miles is that there is a wobble if you let go of the bars at 40-45 (ideas?), and there is a very, very slight ticking sound coming from the top right side of the engine. Very minor, probably nothing. Sounds a million times better than my TW. It's a commuter bike for me that will see maybe 3000 per year so I'm not concerned.

Seems like a great bike though, a lot of power, handles good, very smooth engine/transmission.
When I first got my nighthawk it did the same wobble, replaced the old tire and it was gone.

http://superbrace.com/shop/2239-honda-nighthawk-750/

Also these are a must for the nighthawk.
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:09 AM   #4048
ZJeepMI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbsdave View Post
congrats on the new bike

change all the fluids right away, just do it
check the age of the tires and check for cracking, new would be a good idea
old bikes with low miles almost always need the carbs done as sitting lets them gum up, try some seafoam in the gas.
it might be the fork oil needs changed also, there is good info on the Nighthawk here: http://nighthawk-forums.com/index.php
since it will be an almost daily rider for you, do this stuff right away

there are many miles left on your new one, enjoy
Thanks for the advice! Oil was changed last month, 400 miles ago (have receipt) but I will change in the spring regardless. Fortunately the carbs were gone through two years ago and it seems to run very well now. He told me that he always stored it properly and ran seafoam through it every spring. I'm going to run some through myself though because riding season is pretty much over here in Michigan so It's going to be sitting for the next couple months. He didn't mention anything about fork oil so I will do that this winter as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RABBIT170 View Post
When I first got my nighthawk it did the same wobble, replaced the old tire and it was gone.

http://superbrace.com/shop/2239-honda-nighthawk-750/

Also these are a must for the nighthawk.
Glad to hear i'm not the only one with the wobble. It's as smooth as it can be at 75, but 40-45 is not a good feeling. I'm thinking it's the tires as well, they're both 3 years old with less than 2000 miles and look great with no dry rot. BUT, I just noticed that the front D404 is actually supposed to be a rear tire (marked as such on tire). I'm assuming this is causing my vibration, or hoping it is at least. So a new tire is going on here shortly.
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:55 AM   #4049
drdubb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJeepMI View Post


Glad to hear i'm not the only one with the wobble. It's as smooth as it can be at 75, but 40-45 is not a good feeling. I'm thinking it's the tires as well, they're both 3 years old with less than 2000 miles and look great with no dry rot. BUT, I just noticed that the front D404 is actually supposed to be a rear tire (marked as such on tire). I'm assuming this is causing my vibration, or hoping it is at least. So a new tire is going on here shortly.

More than likely it is the tires. I have various experiences with tires. My current front (Michelin pilot active) has about 12000 miles and on my last trip I noticed a severe wobble when I let go of the bars and it was starting to wobble in curves.
I will check me steering bearings and wheel bearings this winter. I will definitely get new tires. I doubt that at 9 k miles, you have any bearing problems.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:42 PM   #4050
ZJeepMI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drdubb View Post
More than likely it is the tires. I have various experiences with tires. My current front (Michelin pilot active) has about 12000 miles and on my last trip I noticed a severe wobble when I let go of the bars and it was starting to wobble in curves.
I will check me steering bearings and wheel bearings this winter. I will definitely get new tires. I doubt that at 9 k miles, you have any bearing problems.
Cool, hopefully that's it. I'm going to get the tire replaced on friday, and also take the windshield off as I think that might be causing some helmet buffeting.

How long does it take everyone else's nighthawk to warm up in cold weather?

It's been 40-50 degrees here the past few days and the bike always starts right up but takes quite some time to be fully responsive (especially at low RPM). Off idle I frequently have to pull the clutch back in after take off and bring the RPM up because it is stumbling. After 10-15 minutes it takes off fine. My TW200 took may 2-3 minutes to be running perfectly in cool weather, but that's a lot less engine to warm up I guess.
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