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Old 02-25-2007, 01:15 PM   #16
Stagehand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpatstone
Just have to chime in. I used 10-wt, and it's fine for me.

Of course, I'm about 380 lbs with my wife on my shoulders, my dog in my arms, the dog needs to pee and so do I, the wind is blowing from the southwest, and the scale reads 2 lbs when nothing's on it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by renegade6
I forgot to add that when I did mine the compression and rebound sides were backwards




Im 15w all around, but I've got a racetech on the bench waiting for +32 temps. 175lbs, also, geared up. there was a cool thread in here a year or two ago about custom fork oil cocktails... like 12w one side, and 18.5 another... dont think I'll go that crazy, but it would be cool to try it out.
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Old 02-25-2007, 04:22 PM   #17
moosehead
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I use 15w and 20w L/R (or is it R/L??) with Progressives.
But I'm 230lbs 6'
Found 10/15w and 15/15w not right for me.
Can start at lower weight and work your way up to heavier viscosity until you hit the right combination for your riding conditions. Takes some experimenting to find your sweet spot. Its no big deal to change fork oil in this bike.
Good luck and happy riding
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Old 02-26-2007, 06:02 AM   #18
wintonio
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am i reading the chart in post #2 correctly that if the forks have been disassembled, add 470 cc's to both fork legs?
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Old 02-28-2007, 04:15 AM   #19
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bump for the 'tard (me)

ok, still perhaps a dumb question, but if I have completely disassembled the forks (which I have), does the chart in post #2 say that each fork gets 470cc's of fluid?

Thanks in advance,

Grasshopper
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Old 02-28-2007, 06:14 AM   #20
datchew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joerg
The reason ist that both fork parts have different functions (compression damping is entirely controlled by the left fork, while rebound damping is controlled by the right fork), and if you do a "standard" oil change not all of it comes out.

W - I re-read Joerg's answer to R Dogg (quoted above).

I'd interpret it such that when Joerg says a "standard" oil change, that he means only drain and refill. In that case, the left column of post #2 would apply as it's column header is "change only."

If you've dismantled them, that means (i hope) that you got ALL of the fluid out and thus, you'd use the volumes in the right column of post #2 titled "if disassembled."
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Old 02-28-2007, 06:59 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
I'd interpret it such that when Joerg says a "standard" oil change, that he means only drain and refill. In that case, the left column of post #2 would apply as it's column header is "change only."

If you've dismantled them, that means (i hope) that you got ALL of the fluid out and thus, you'd use the volumes in the right column of post #2 titled "if disassembled."
Yep, correct.

I'm wondering why there is so much theoreticizing involved ... is it just the winter season? The essential point is that after assembly and correctly filling the fork, you have exactly the same oil level in both fork parts. This is the reason why I slightly overfill, then use a tube and a syringe to remove the excess: http://homepage.sunrise.ch/mysunrise...r80gs.htm#fork
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Old 02-28-2007, 01:59 PM   #22
wintonio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joerg
Yep, correct.

I'm wondering why there is so much theoreticizing involved ... is it just the winter season?
Yes, if by "winter season" you mean complete and total ignorance (on my part), and no shame in letting the whole world know
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:03 AM   #23
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Laugh Bds!

Hi,
Quote:
Originally Posted by wintonio
Yes, if by "winter season" you mean complete and total ignorance (on my part), and no shame in letting the whole world know
No, I really mean "winter season" ... I'm observing the same phenomenon in a number of other forums on my side of the planet. For a number of people, having deposited their license plate during winter season really seems to result in severe BDS (bike deficieny syndrome) this year ... "in theory, assuming I had a bike that would run, then I could/would/might ..."
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:57 AM   #24
ROSKO
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To add my two cents for the lighter guys, I weigh in at 155 and use 5wt w/ progressives. Gives it a supple feel, more like an MX fork.
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:55 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDirtyKnacker
To add my two cents for the lighter guys, I weigh in at 155 and use 5wt w/ progressives. Gives it a supple feel, more like an MX fork.
Wow, may have to try a lighter set-up.... I'm 175 (in riding gear) and am running 15wt in both legs, stock springs and racetech emulators... last summer they seemed spot on, but I am learning that more supple, may be more better.... worth a shot I guess.

I hated anything less than 15wt when I had progressives and no racetech's...
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your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:10 AM   #26
lockyv7
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Just about to change to fork oil in a 100GS i now have and i found this thread useing google. Are most people still useing 10 - 15w oil in there forks or has the thinking changed over the past few years. Dont know the history of this bike but the forks dont leak and seem to work ok so will just start with a pump out the old and replace for now.
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:11 AM   #27
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I'm still in the 10 to 15w region.
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Old 07-17-2012, 04:39 PM   #28
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Figured Id post up - have a customers R100GS forks in for a rebuild, new seals and Race Tech Gold Valves. He already has progressive springs. 200 lbs geared up. Sounds like 10 or 15W fork oil should be good? When you guys are mixing, are you doing the heavier in the rebound or compression leg? I also have 12.5W, maybe Ill just put that in both

To add to this, I saw in another post someone said NO PROGRESSIVE with the Race Tech Gold Valves. True story?
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:29 PM   #29
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[QUOTE=SikDMAX;19152921]Figured Id post up - have a customers R100GS forks in for a rebuild, new seals and Race Tech Gold Valves. He already has progressive springs. 200 lbs geared up. Sounds like 10 or 15W fork oil should be good? When you guys are mixing, are you doing the heavier in the rebound or compression leg? I also have 12.5W, maybe Ill just put that in both

To add to this, I saw in another post someone said NO PROGRESSIVE with the Race Tech Gold Valves. True ? [\quote]

my understanding was not that you shouldnt use progressives, but the original testing was done on stockers, so aftermarkets you are on your own as far as baselines. Does that make sense?

Aso, most people use heavier fluid in the compression leg, lighter in the rebound.
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Old 07-17-2012, 05:53 PM   #30
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Gotcha - thanks for that. Any ideas on preload, spacer length, etc with GOld Valves and progressives?
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