The XT600 Thread

[XT4ME]

Thats not All Talk

[Olas]

So...I think i'm onto something here. This is on a '92 XT600E, stock exhaust and air box.

A while back I posted something about how my bike was hard to start when cold and tilting it to the right would help it... Well, after replacing the air mix screw it got much easier to start.

A couple of days ago I checked my valve clearances and both exhausts were about .002" on the loose end. I adjusted them back to the middle of the spec and now the bike is a little harder to start and it is very similar to how it was before I got the new air mix screw.

My theory is that with the stock airbox and exhaust the bike is a bit choked up and loosening the exhaust valves helps it? Does that sound plausible?

[dirtyrod]

Hi Folks
My bike was written off because of a bent rear frame and back wheel from a collision . I didn't even get the chance to run a whole tank of gas through the new clark 4 gal I installed a week earlier. Paid 179.99 + shipping on ebay for it 3 weeks ago. I'll take $125 for it if anyone is interested . Email me at teachtofix@gmail.com if interested.
Rod

[JensEskildsen]

which year/model bike?

[dirtyrod]

OOOOps sorry I guess I could have been a little more specific ehh!
The tank is for the 84-89 xt 600 I am told. Mine was a an 86.
Rod

[Whorepedo]

Got a problem...
1994 XT600

Ive been riding my 600 for a while now and even rode the TAT from Tn to Ms on it. Never noticed any problems or had any funky front tire wear.

This past weekend a friend visited from out of town and i let him ride my XT600. As i followed him down the road i noticed it looked like the front tire and forks slanted so that the front tire contact patch was straight, but just to the right of the rear tire. I took a closer look when we stopped and everything looked straight so i brushed it off as illusion since no one had ever said anything to me about it before.

We rode along and after another friend followed the 600, he noticed the same thing and said something when we stopped. Now im baffled. If something was haywire, wouldnt i be able to see it when the bike was stopped or noticed a bad wear pattern on the tire?

Any input is appreciated.

[Geoff D]

Sounds like yer rear wheel's not straight in the swinging arm... check the chain adjusting marks, or better still check your wheel alignment with a couple of timbers, the chain adjusting marks on the swinging arm are usually rubbish

[cmattwilliams]

Was wondering if anyone could help me out with a few things...

I have a 1984 XT600 that I am rebuilding...the head and rockerbox are out of a 1984 TT600 that I bought off ebay and it seems the original XT camshaft is too tight in the journals to spin freely when I tighten down the rockerbox to the head ....is the TT600 cam a smaller diameter?

the parts numbers are different but I have read that the XT600, TT600 and XT550 cams are all interchangable....?

I am about 3 months into this rebuild and this really has me stumped...I would like to find a TT600 cam and have been searching but to no avail....the head is in great condition and so is the rockerbox....if I swap out the XT cam I wonder if the TT cam has the inner spindle for the tach or not?

One other question as well.....I bought a cylinder I believe is from a TT600 as well...it was at 95.5mm and I had it bored to 96mm........I know the TT was a Nikasil plated bore....but was it a cast iron sleeve plated with Nikasil?
This cylinder has the yellowish tinge around the outside bottom of the barrel but it is definitely an iron sleeve....i used a magnet to determine and it sticks....my question is, is this cylinder ok to run now that i have had it bored out because it is a cast iron sleeve or is it , althought iron, a lighter grade and more susceptible to wear?

Thanks very much for any help you can offer....

Matt


Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.....

[Whorepedo]

Originally Posted by Geoff D

Sounds like yer rear wheel's not straight in the swinging arm... check the chain adjusting marks, or better still check your wheel alignment with a couple of timbers, the chain adjusting marks on the swinging arm are usually rubbish

I can check that this afternoon to be sure, but just to add detail... the rear wheel looks lined up with the bike. Its the front that looks as if its stepped out. I guess the rear being out of line could cause everything else to look out of place.

[netjustin]

So far I've managed a best lap time of 2:00.2 at Infineon (Sears Point for you old schoolers). The last bike in this clip is me on my stock XT600 with only bolt ons like flatslide carbs and a Pro Circuit exhaust. The bike has gifted me a top novice trophy and a 7th place finish out of 24 novices last weekend.

This is my "Amen" to XT600 and single cylinder racers and I'm hoping to post even better results in the very near future.

A big THANK YOU to ADVIDER and everyone who has contributed to this thread and thus contributed to my race effort! Podium results coming soon....

[03XT600E]

Is it worth paying £75 for a stage 2 dynojet kit?

I have already taken the snorkel out, piper x filter, big bore headers and less restrictive silencer.

Just been doing some reading and apparently,

"I found the jetting to be easier on my XL than my XT simply because both carbs are identical with the exception of having a choke circuit in only one side. I assume the Raptor would be setup the same way. I just bought a Dynojet jet kit for the XL600R and followed their recommendations. But everything that the YDIS carb needed was a struggle. Rejetting was a nightmare, setting the float height was crazy hard and adjusting the air screw required drilling out a brass plug."
"Just getting the float height set right requires a special Yamatool or a LOT of patience."

[JensEskildsen]

Netjustin, looks nice.


03xt600e: Dot think you'll need to drill out a plug to adjust the COscrew (fuelscrew) and i cant sse why you would mess with the floatheight.

Yeah the 2 carbs are not the same, but that doesn't make it a problem.

Havent got a dynokit myself, but i have been rejetting my carb myself.

[Toddd]

Hey guys i would really like some help with my '89 xt. It is making a nasty engine noise, like a loud tapping or clicking i would say. It is somewhat intermittent also. I have adjusted the valves and looked at the cam chain tensioner which looks fine.
Anything else i can check? Maybe im missing something with the tensioner? I cant imagine that there can be anything seriously wrong with it being that it only has 4900 miles on it.
Any input would be great.

Thanks,
Toddd

[netjustin]

Originally Posted by Toddd

It is making a nasty engine noise, like a loud tapping or clicking i would say.

Does this happen only under throttle, or do you also hear it just coasting/at idle?

[03XT600E]

Originally Posted by JensEskildsen

Netjustin, looks nice.


03xt600e: Dot think you'll need to drill out a plug to adjust the COscrew (fuelscrew) and i cant sse why you would mess with the floatheight.

Yeah the 2 carbs are not the same, but that doesn't make it a problem.

Havent got a dynokit myself, but i have been rejetting my carb myself.

Since posting I have found thier literature on the kit. Contents.
1 fuel needle
1 adjusting washer
1 e clip
1 C.V carb slide drill
1 C.V main jet drill

Stage 2 instructions.

1. Remove vacuum slide from C.V carb. Remove stock needle & spacers, noting order of

E4225.002 assembly (Fig A). Use the slide drill (DD# 40) provided to enlarge the slide lift hole of the C.V carb slide.
2. Install the Dynojet needle on groove# 3, using all stock spacers(Fig. A). Install the Dynojet washers above the e-clip.
3. Remove the air intake snorkel from the air box. With the stock exhaust and K&N filter use the stock main jet in the C.V carb. With an after market header or slip-on with high flowing baffle drill the C.V carb main jet with the main jet drill (DD#115) provided.
4. Locate the Fuel Mixture screw on the bottom of the Slide Carb. Carefully turn mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated, then back out 2-1/2 turns.

I have the snorkel removed, Devil big bore headers from Kedo, pipercross foam air filter, silencer with removable baffle so assume I would need to drill the C.V carb main jet out to 115.