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Old 07-22-2008, 11:13 PM   #241
alexk243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtphreak
the "charging coil" is at full output (depending on engine speed) all the time.

the regulator is a shunt, that is it passes excess energy as heat. You aren't in an excess energy situation, rather the opposite, so the regulator will be taking it pretty easy.

so whenever you exceed the stator's output, you draw the extra off the battery ... it being a storage device for surges (like the starter).

now to be honest I don't know if the XT600E will keep on ticking with a dead (or missing battery), I know my old XT500C ran for several years without a battery installed (Jardine up pipe ran right thru the battery area), but it was a kickstart with an AC headlight (ran off the coil only when the motor was running).

Best case is you run the battery down until it hasn't enough voltage to support the TCI (ignition black box). Which "could" damage the box internals from trying to pass enough current without sufficent voltage, so I guess that's not best case.

you have to replace energy you expend from the battery, if you're overrunning the charging system capability, you can't replace the power used in cranking.

eventually you'll have a dead battery, because discharging a standard battery beyond (I think I remember) 10.5 volts actually damages the cell chemistry if done repeatedly.

DO NOT overload the wiring!!!!

if you're using the headlight switch, I suggest you use a seperately fused source thru a heavy relay so as to avoid too small conductors.

a suggestion

I know more light is better
have you tried a different type bulb?

I replaced all my bike headlights with Sylvania SilverStars and the difference is amazing. Same wattage, same power draw, but whiter & brighter light.

again, I think you need to consider HID lights if you need 3 55w halogens.

an HID typically delivers 2 - 2.5 times as much light for 1/2 the current draw. ... unfortunately they are expensive and more complicated.

I intend to get some of the Trail Tech 13w HIDs, 2 = a 70 watt halogen, but only draw 26w ... last I looked they were about $125 each.
wow again very knowledgable, you have no idea how much this helps me.

what it sounds like is that as long as I keep the voltage above 11 volts or so I only risk damaging the battery and possible not being able to restart the bike.

this is the information I am looking for and I think that I will also look into replacing some of the bulbs as you have suggested. Ill play around with it and see what I can get.

Is there anyway I can test power consumption with a voltmeter?
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Old 07-23-2008, 09:04 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexk243
wow again very knowledgable, you have no idea how much this helps me.

what it sounds like is that as long as I keep the voltage above 11 volts or so I only risk damaging the battery and possible not being able to restart the bike.

this is the information I am looking for and I think that I will also look into replacing some of the bulbs as you have suggested. Ill play around with it and see what I can get.

Is there anyway I can test power consumption with a voltmeter?
yes

hook the voltmeter across the battery reading VDC on a scale that lets you see 10-15 volts accurately ... like a 0-20 vdc scale

attach the voltmeter so you can see it while riding

while cruising at "normal" speeds, watch the voltage as you add each load

this'll tell you what you can run without jeopardy.



notice that as you slow the engine speed, the voltage will drop.

so get used to cutting stuff off at stoplights, or in slow traffic, to give the battery a chance to build up its charge.

be aware that if you run the voltage down that low, the lights won't be as bright, so you hit a point of diminishing returns. Add more lights, which reduces available voltage to lights, lights aren't as bright, add more lights, voltage goes down further, lights get dimmer, and on and on.

better to try the Silverstar bulb in your main headlamp.

same amperage as stock, but better light out of it.



or go to a car shop or boat shop and get an ammeter with a shunt that'll handle say 25A. usually they will read current in either direction (+ or -), this will tell you if current is flowing into the battery from the stator (charging) or out of the battery (discharging).

put the shunt in SERIES with the red wire off the battery (not the starter cable).

the shunt is a very low resistance resistor (with a known value), the ammmeter is really a low range voltmeter reading the voltage generated across the shunt, the scale being calibrated in amps.

say the shunt is 0.01 ohm and the current is 100A.
the voltage developed across the resistor (shunt) will be 1 volt.
the meter scale is marked 100A when the meter movement is reading 1 volt.

don't get the ammeter with the shunt internal as you have to run a wire the same size as the original from the connection point, up to the meter, and back to the other tap point.

with the shunt type, you can run very small wires to and from the meter.
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xtphreak screwed with this post 08-13-2008 at 09:25 AM
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Old 07-25-2008, 10:21 PM   #243
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This may seem like a very noobish question but what size is the bolt for the drain on the oil tank? I sheered it off today while trying to change the oil and have finally managed to get that bloody bolt back out (after much cursing) ever tried to get out a sheered off bolt while the oil is leaking around it? It's quite difficult. Also this may sound stupid but where is the other drain bolt? I have gone over the bike and can't find it (only ever done 2 stroke and cars). A picture or just roughly where it is should help me locate it.
Thanks
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Old 07-26-2008, 05:22 AM   #244
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one on the bottom and one on the frame in front of the engine. Ill see if i have a picture that illustrates it.
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Old 07-26-2008, 05:54 AM   #245
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its ok i found them both. Now I'm faced with the dilema of trying to find a bolt to fit the frame bolt. I put in a bolt i thought was the same size but when it got to the end it just spun around aimlessly. I hope I havent stripped the thread... that could be a pain in the arse
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Old 07-27-2008, 06:44 PM   #246
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Ive got a question...

Ive been doing some commuting on my XT. about 45 miles each way and its almost entirely interstate. I ride about 65-70mph tops.

Am i killing my one-lunger with the highway miles???
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Old 07-27-2008, 08:02 PM   #247
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my 89 with 15-45 gearing feels good at an indicated 65. 70 feels like its being pushed a little. i get over 60 mpg at 65 mph.
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Old 07-28-2008, 12:16 AM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorepedo
Ive got a question...

Ive been doing some commuting on my XT. about 45 miles each way and its almost entirely interstate. I ride about 65-70mph tops.

Am i killing my one-lunger with the highway miles???
No.
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Old 07-28-2008, 01:22 AM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorepedo
Ive got a question...

Ive been doing some commuting on my XT. about 45 miles each way and its almost entirely interstate. I ride about 65-70mph tops.

Am i killing my one-lunger with the highway miles???
It loves you for it. People take these all over the world, I doubt your daily commute would do much harm :)
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:42 AM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roswellj
It loves you for it. People take these all over the world, I doubt your daily commute would do much harm :)
I commute on mine 62 miles each way, (when the TDM is down like now ) but I prefer to avoid the interstoopids, the back roads are sooooo much more fun.

that said I rode to Dingledork's place in TN the other weekend (Friday night) 160 there, we rode about 175 miles of NFS roads then I busted home on I-40 (another 140 miles) Saturday afternoon.

the only issue I have with my 95 is that yes it feels like I'm pushing it at 75 mph and there's not a lot more for avoiding the idiots on I-85 in the mornings.

also above 65 -70, the front fender starts catching breezes and acting like a sail, especially passing trucks (or them passing me), making for the old 70mph Death Wobble ...
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Chrome don't get ya home. Rob Nye
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xtphreak screwed with this post 07-29-2008 at 06:53 AM
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:29 PM   #251
Whorepedo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtphreak
I commute on mine 62 miles each way, (when the TDM is down like now ) but I prefer to avoid the interstoopids, the back roads are sooooo much more fun.
I jump off the interstate as soon as i can on the way home. But if i did that on the way to work i would be late everyday. driving across atlanta on backroads at rush hour can take up to 3 months.
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:27 PM   #252
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Practically New XT

1992 on eBay with only 235 miles!

I wonder what kind of condition the internals are in???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamah...spagenameZWDVW
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Old 08-07-2008, 03:10 AM   #253
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parts for 86 XT

I will be taking my XT apart and sell it.If you guys need some parts let me know
Peace
Claudio
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Old 08-08-2008, 03:13 AM   #254
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what condition are the plastics in? how much for both rear sides and tail? What about a price on the wheels, too??

PM me or email me - whorepedo@gmail.com
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Old 08-08-2008, 07:18 AM   #255
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Ok, So I am going to replace my tires on my XT600 and I am wondering what to get. I am looking for something a little more street friendly as I have been doing a bit of communting on the bike.

What do you reccomend and what size fits the XT600 (I am also having trouble finding the size)?

Thanks

Alex
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