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Old 11-18-2011, 01:44 AM   #2986
LouisPoland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouisPoland View Post
My Tenere





Last weekend







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Old 11-18-2011, 08:24 AM   #2987
yamalama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScramblerTom View Post
Got some moose racing guards - same as what's on the EXC and everyone says these are universal but they don't fit. The problem is not really the bars but the levers, the levers are so long they hit the inside of the guards and the front brake reservoir is totally in the way of the mounting bracket.

Anyone want some "universal" moose guards? $50. Will fit anything

what brands are you guys having good luck with??
Acerbis guards fit perfectly, no modifications.
1990 Xt600e
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:47 PM   #2988
McGoo
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Crap. While trying to remove a stuck float pin, I snapped the bottom off the casting.




I still have the tip, can this be JB Welded or similar? I remember someone on Adv metioned doing this, but I have read so many threads on so many pages I cant remember who did it. One person told me that it probably doesnt need to be there, and I should be fine if I leave it off, and that gluing it back on might glue the pin as well, leaving me with a more screwed carb. Any thoughts? Im leaning towards leaving the float pin in place and very carefully gluing the tip back on.

Also, will the carb of a 198x model fit a 1991 bike? There are lots more older carbs on ebay, and if I can transplant the internals (I have new jets, gaskets, and needles waiting to be installed) then that could be a good fallback option.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:32 PM   #2989
Tenny
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Location: Hayward, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScramblerTom View Post
Got some moose racing guards - same as what's on the EXC and everyone says these are universal but they don't fit. The problem is not really the bars but the levers, the levers are so long they hit the inside of the guards and the front brake reservoir is totally in the way of the mounting bracket.

Anyone want some "universal" moose guards? $50. Will fit anything

what brands are you guys having good luck with??
I bought some "Tusk" ones and they are pretty nice, although I had to replace the stock bar (as it is solid inside). Here's a few pics of doing it:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W...729_140925.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2...729_141744.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...730_162312.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...730_174009.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-l...730_174739.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-c...731_154439.jpg
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:54 PM   #2990
TheRadBaron
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McGoo,
That sucks about your carb. I've had that happen on an old Suzuki, too. I never ended up fixing mine because I abandoned that project.
I don't think that leaving that piece off would be a good idea. It might work for a while, but I think that after a while it would start to cause the fuel level to be inconsistent and possibly make the float bind up. Epoxying it might work, but the glue would be immersed in the gasoline all the time and there are few adhesives that are truly that fuel resistant.
I'm not sure what the best repair would be, but if a replacement carb couldn't be found I'd probably look into having it brazed or silver soldered by someone who knows what they're doing.
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Old 11-25-2011, 01:35 AM   #2991
McGoo
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Originally Posted by TheRadBaron View Post
McGoo,
That sucks about your carb. I've had that happen on an old Suzuki, too. I never ended up fixing mine because I abandoned that project.
I don't think that leaving that piece off would be a good idea. It might work for a while, but I think that after a while it would start to cause the fuel level to be inconsistent and possibly make the float bind up. Epoxying it might work, but the glue would be immersed in the gasoline all the time and there are few adhesives that are truly that fuel resistant.
I'm not sure what the best repair would be, but if a replacement carb couldn't be found I'd probably look into having it brazed or silver soldered by someone who knows what they're doing.
I ended up epoxying the tip back on with some stuff advertised as being petrol resistant. Time will tell how well it holds up. I actually have the bike running now, but it has a few niggles.

1) I bought a carb kit that had a new main needle (the old one was bent). Th old one was stamped 5D90, the new one 5D93. The bike stutters under part or constant throttle, but is fine under full throttle. I put the new needle in with the clip in the same place as the old one. Should I lift the needle up one notch? Will this fix the stutter?

2) the neutral light is always on. I know this is because the wire is probably squashed under the left engine cover when I put it back together. Unfortunately one of the Allen bolts holding the front sprocket cover is rounded out. Once I get that out, can I run a new wire that splices into the switch instead of pulling the cover off? I really don't want to have to pull it all apart again.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:06 AM   #2992
D.T.
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Question

I was just cleaning off my chain on the XT and noticed the front chain guide was 1/2 gone! Anybody out there have a spare I can buy? Yamaha wants $53 bucks for a new one!

34L-22147-00-00 PORTECTOR,CHAIN$53.59 $53.59


I found some on fleabay for a 2nd gen 600 but I don't know if they will fit and cost $45.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-XT600...sories&vxp=mtr
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:43 PM   #2993
cant stay upright
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hi need help with engine

HI i have a lovely old xt600 1984 but need right hand side engine cover ,its the kick start side so if anyone has one or could point me in the right direction i will be for ever in your debt .thanks guys and keep up the good work on here.

P.M if you can.
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:15 AM   #2994
bendiebandielegs
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Front wheel wash out

Can anyone give me advice. I am finding the front wheel washes out quite easly especialy on dirt trails. I am using Brigstone TW 41 an on off road tyre (which suits the amount of riding I do and the terain). Appart from changing the tyres to nobbles is there anything else I can do to help stop the front wheel from washing out?
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:32 AM   #2995
Beemerboff
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These tires arn't called death wings for nothing- so get plenty of life insurance, perhaps a prepaid funeral plan, and pick your plot and headstone.

Or fit something else - just about anything else is going to be better.

I just fitted a set of Scorpion ATs, and for the sort of riding I do, 60% poor asphalt / spray seal and 40% unsealed rubble roads and tracks, no mud and no deep sand, they work as well or better than any other non nobbie AT tire I've tried.

And my dealer did them for $130- less than the MSR on Avon Distanzas or Annekeys here in Oz
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:38 AM   #2996
ScramblerTom
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you can also consider your riding position. While nothing works like real knobbies, you can change how you hold the bike in corners to give you more speed - but it takes practice and you have to bail a few times to know what you are doing right and wrong.

The biggest problem is leaning into corners, the more you lean the more sideways pressure on the tire - obvious. if you are leaned over 30 degrees and the front tire slips an inch or two - suddenly you are at 45 degrees and likely lowsiding before you know it. If you lean your body - but push the bars out of the corner such that the forks remain close to 90 to the ground that front can drift sideways without washing out. The Erzberg guys got this down pat - in fact go watch a few videos, you will see the can power around a corner with the back end breaking loose but they lean forward, lean out and force the forks to stay pretty much vertical. But as I say - you need to crash (and usually pretty good) a few times to know the limits.

I have Kenda 761s on my XT - they look aggressive but have no hook up at all and so I use this method - of course every time I feel the back break free way to early in the corner I am picturing myself ordering dunlop 606s...
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:08 AM   #2997
vudu
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Drop the forks thru the clamps

Guaranteed to "quicken" the steering. Of course YMMV.

..and good luck!
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:08 PM   #2998
ScramblerTom
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fairings and rear tank on 86 xt600??

So my XT has gone through a couple of months of rigorous testing and besides a few things like a stick carb the thing feels good and solid. So I am back to providing more fuel and better protection from the wind. Purely for aesthetic reasons I want to put a rally fairing on the front and mount my GPS and Vapor dash and other electronics up front like a road book. I also want to increase the tank capacity by adding a rear tank. Anyone done this? I assume it will all be a winter project using welded aluminum for the tank and fiberglass for the fairing but I am wondering if anyone has done this before??? a search did not turn up anything. I guess if you wanted fairings you would have bought the tenere? but that was not an option for me so now I have to make my own.

any design hints would be great - but it looks like most cues I take will be from the xr650r bikes and ktm640s.
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2005 KTM EXC 400
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2006 Piaggio BV 250
1986 XT 600
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:36 AM   #2999
Olas
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So I found a mint, 1990 XT600E with only a thousand miles on it...The guy apparently bought it new, took one trip on it and claims he had the oil changed by a mechanic who he thinks stripped out the threads where the engine drain plug screws into. After his trip, he went through a divorce and the bike sat the whole time in a garage. He was able to finally get it back and now he's selling it. It looks like showroom condition in the pictures but I'm willing to guess it'll need a new battery, carbs cleaned, etc... to bring it back to life.

I emailed him and asked him which drain plug was stripped, he thinks it's the one for the engine.. I think I'm going to go have a look at it tomorrow if he's available. I really miss my XT. The only problem, though, is that he's asking $1500 for the bike and is firm on the price.

What do you all think? I'm hoping for the best, and that maybe the drain plug threads aren't stripped and it's something else. Yeah, I'm a glass is half full kinda guy but we'll just wait and see. I would love to own an XT in this shape, I just don't want it to turn into a huge PITA project so if it looks bad, I'll probably run. I should have never sold my '92.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:46 AM   #3000
yokesman
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I dont have a XT yet , but being a dry sump the oil drain plug is at the tank on all my motors-norton,buell. Most auto parts have self taping drain plugs to repair the auto oil pans after the heavy handed mechanics torque(?) them along with the filter and it takes a wrecking bar to remove.clean up the treads, then use a sealant like aviation permatex after that, just change at the tank, if at the tank and the insert does not spin-break its weld,it should be good.if it does just braze it.
when tapping or cleaning the treads try do it from the bottom and keep a flow of oil to wash any debri onto the floor rag.
sound like a dream buy as long as all you see matches the story.
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