The XT600 Thread

[Zombie_Stomp]

How much do these wonderful bosley1980 footpegs go for? I've been checking them out and liking the stainless steel ones.

[bosley1980]

Originally Posted by vudu

Bosley1980 footpegs fitted. Nice and solid. Thanks Radan.

Broken TW200 peg for comparison. Maybe I fall off too much.

You welcome vudu, but I waiting for PIC you bike from profile

One of the German customers had already made and flips downhill and this is how it happened.



Is not satisfied with the quality. Better would be if the footpegs was so strong that it would be better if the frame crooked probably - so much to my address.
Weld is good - endured it well (no broke away).



footrest is designed to load:
a) from the top (see picture)
b) at the front (it to hide - a mechanism with spring)

but the load from the back - unfortunately it will destroy every

[vudu]

You welcome vudu, but I waiting for PIC you bike from profile.

Top of page 235, post 3511.

Oh if you mean this lot "Buell Lightning, 1975-76 Yamaha DT 175, 250, 400 + project, 77 DT400, XT 500, 550, 600" I'm shy and this is a XT600 thread.

[bosley1980]

Originally Posted by vudu

Top of page 235, post 3511.

Oh if you mean this lot "Buell Lightning, 1975-76 Yamaha DT 175, 250, 400 + project, 77 DT400, XT 500, 550, 600" I'm shy and this is a XT600 thread.

OUuu yes I thank you.
I've noticed do not see the footpegs

[Florheel]

I recently acquired a '92 XTE in good condition except the spokes are showing their age. A couple of weeks later I grabbed an '86 in farm worn condition. The engine turns freely, carbs are fresh, but no CDI, seat, and the tank is dented.

I'd like to relace the aluminum rims from the '86 onto the '92 hubs, but it looks like the price of spokes will push that off the budget for now. What's involved with swapping the swingarm/wheel assembly from the '86 onto the '92? Will I be sacrificing a great deal of stopping power going to drum rear? Am I correct that the front is a direct swap?

I say all that to ask this: Is this the right thread to ask? I tried a search but struck out.

Thanks in advance!

[A-Wind]

Originally Posted by Florheel

What's involved with swapping the swingarm/wheel assembly from the '86 onto the '92? Will I be sacrificing a great deal of stopping power going to drum rear? Am I correct that the front is a direct swap?

Practically impossible. Due to different engine width (at e-start section area), the sprocket won't line up. I looked into this already in preparation of a similar project.

[Florheel]

Originally Posted by A-Wind

Practically impossible. Due to different engine width (at e-start section area), the sprocket won't line up. I looked into this already in preparation of a similar project.

So much for taking the easy way out. What about modifying the XTE to accept the drum braked wheel setup? I'd really like to be ride of the XTE chrome rims without dropping a bunch of dough in an exchange. I have a lathe and mill.

If it can be pulled off, is there a significant loss of braking power?

[A-Wind]

Originally Posted by Florheel

If it can be pulled off, is there a significant loss of braking power?

I'm not for this. Indeed I would rather switch from drum to disk. The drums on my XT drove me nuts for over 24 years now. Regardless what I do, they still squeak when they want. Easy removal of the rear wheel with the disk brake setup is also a welcome premium.

I'm also not for the chrome rims, simply because they are steel and chrome plated. At the same time the aluminum rims only come as 18s which will completely change the look and feel of your bike, and who knows if you will like it.

If you really want to go with 18' aluminum rims, I think the setup that might work for you is to swapping in the swingarm/rim combo of a European Tenere Type: 1VJ (Google: Tenere 1VJ) or the Tenere Type 3AJ (Google: Tenere 3AJ). "Unfortunately" both have steel swingarms. The older 1VJ has drums, while the newer 3AJ has disk. The engine+swingarm mounts are the same and you won't have the issue with the sprockets not lining up. In Germany (eBay.de) these should sell for very cheap -> it's the shipping that will cost you.

[Zecatfish]

I had to replace the rim on my XT550,
I actually cheated.
I had an old 18" rim from a TM250 (aluminum) and the spoke count was good, the hub was nearly the same diameter so the spoke angles was good.
I called Buchannon Spoke I think a set of heavy duty spokes and nipples was like $80 if I remember right.
Laced it up myself but I had a buddy's shop true it. I hate spokes.
So it turned into a cheap change over.
I have less in it than in a ebay wheel.

Drum vs Disc on the rear, IMO its not an issue you can lock the rear wheel with either one so stopping power is not relevant on the rear. It boils down to preference there.
Only place disc is superior on the rear is when the drum is wet internally.

[Zombie_Stomp]

Ok, I've got some good news and some strange news, and finally a couple photos of the actual German XT600 I own instead of ones of the same model I had googled. (don't own a camera of my own atm)

I installed the ebay replica ignition switch sold on german ebay. I got it because the plug looked exactly the same as mine from when I tried to fit the USA version with steering lock. That one was the wrong connector, different colors of wires, no additional black/white wire in addition to the 6-block connector, and it was used and abused.

So with my freshly purchased replica from germany having all the right connections, I took it and the original apart to see if I could keep my Yamaha key but they were a hair too different, plus no clean removal of the tumblers. I thought I saw a clip in there, but how the hell would I have gotten it out. Oh well, two different keys, one for the gas tank and helmet lock, another weird looking key that reads "QINF" brand. Try pronouncing that name. Pretty good quality replica and even uses aluminum on part of it where Yamaha had used composite plastic. Does anyone know if the 1991 era XT600 has a different key blank than the 1980s ones? It could be that "quinf" is just using whatever blank, but I wanted to see if I could get a Yamaha blank for this lock. That would be the ultimate.

It was being sold as a 1991 and up XT600 locking cylinder. Other than the fact that I saw a spacer welded to the steering head and the wire connectors being the same in appearance, I couldn't be positive that it would work on my bike. Once I got the headlight and speedo/tacho off, I plugged in the new unit to test the lights and everything to be sure they worked. They did. So I went ahead with the rest of the installation, and at some point I unplugged the ignition switch to re-route the wire. I decided to test start the engine as well before finishing replacing the lights and all. It started, which was fine until I realized the ignition switch would not turn the engine off, and then that it was in fact completely disconnected! So that's the strange news, it runs with the ignition switch disconnected, anyone else's XT do that? I went to plug it in with the engine running but got a terrible shock from the black and white wire! Than, with the ignition switch plugged in, it would not start. This turned out to be a hiccup in the starting procedure fortunately, it was just not quite warmed up and I couldn't decide if it needed more choke or was flooded o it started in about 5 kicks and all was well. WHEW!


The rest of the bike:



Also in my XT news, I rode about 5 miles yesterday wearing almost nothing in a torrential downpour that whipped me with raindrops, flooded the roadways, and threatened to blow me off the road and/or strike me with lightning. The XT didn't bat an eyelid and ran like a champ! It's got the supposedly notoriously bad valveseals, and it seemed to blow a little more smoke upon startup later after the rain stopped, but I didn't think much of it.

[A-Wind]

Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp

[...it runs with the ignition switch disconnected, anyone else's XT do that?...]

All XTs do that.

I hate to say this in the open, but the switch is wired so that when you turn the ignition off, it grounds your ignition = shuts the engine off.
So if it is not wired properly (or e.g. if a thief entirely simply cuts of the entire ignition switch) the ignition is ON.

So it is even more important to have a good steering lock or other lock to rely on.

The ignition switch basically OPENS the grounded ignition and closes the light circuit, so the lights work.

So your problem might be that the new switch connector is either not pinned correctly or you have somewhere else an open in your ignition switch grounding circuit.

[Zombie_Stomp]

Originally Posted by A-Wind

All XTs do that.

I hate to say this in the open, but the switch is wired so that when you turn the ignition off, it grounds your ignition = shuts the engine off.
So if it is not wired properly (or e.g. if a thief entirely simply cuts of the entire ignition switch) the ignition is ON.
.........
So your problem might be that the new switch connector is either not pinned correctly or you have somewhere else an open in your ignition switch grounding circuit.

According to what you said in the first couple sentences, all is normal. I realized the key would not cut the engine off JUST BEFORE realizing the switch was completely disconnected on all wires. Once plugged in, it functions normally, so it is a good switch to use.

Combined with the starting hiccup that happened to coincide with these events, it freaked me out for a couple minutes. Sometimes an XT or XL will not start for 5 kicks if it is somewhere between cold and hot. ("does it need choke or not?")

[Zahnarzt]

Sooo I was bleeding the rear brakes an my XT the other day and as I went to loosen the bleed screw "SNAP"

No problem right, It already has a hole, I have some EZ outs, should be a no brainer, Soak it in break free for a day, add some heat and viola "SNAP" the damn EZ out breaks.

So after a couple days of trying to get the whole mess out ...I give up, I am beaten.

Does anyone have a serviceable rear brake caliper for a '90 and up XT600? or know of another model that uses the same caliper.

There are none on Ebay and I'm scared to even look at dealer prices.
On the bright side I took the wifes TW out in liu of the XT and








Any help is greatly appreciated...

Z

[Noel73]

mine sometimes does not want to start when hot if i try to start it too soon like going into the store or something. just puts a few times and dies out, when it does that i just give it some gas while i kick it and try to catch it one one of the puts and it starts back up. if i wait a while like 45 min or so after i shut it off its just a one kikker and it purrs. i know what your talking about with the not quite warmed up condition, i have had that happen a few times, sometimes i just crack the choke open just a little with no throttle. ice cold mine starts ok, but is hard to keep it running for the first 45 sec. or so, have to back on and off the choke to keep it running, have not figured that out yet.

[vudu]

or know of another model that uses the same caliper.

I'm Pretty sure the DT200 and possibly DT230 share the rear. Maybe even some YZ's. Try Boats.net for the part number and search with that.

mine sometimes does not want to start when hot if i try to start it too soon like going into the store or something. just puts a few times and dies out, when it does that i just give it some gas while i kick it and try to catch it one one of the puts and it starts back up. if i wait a while like 45 min or so after i shut it off its just a one kikker and it purrs.

Had the same problem. Was the stator.Or actually the little attached module. My mechanic tested and confirmed. From memory $600+ new from the stealer.

Good luck fellas