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Old 02-23-2013, 02:04 AM   #3931
De Buurman
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Question

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Originally Posted by gingertom View Post
Always previously had conti trail attack, Looking for something more offroad but i want the chunky'est looking ones possble.. Anyone know of any decent offroad/onroad tyres that wont look too skinny 2003 XT600e
I'm looking for tyres too, for my trip from Alaska to Argentine. I would like to buy tyres for the first part (Alaska-Mexico?) so there will be a lot of onroad i guess...

(for a XT600 2000 btw)

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Old 02-23-2013, 04:11 AM   #3932
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I have tried a few different tires and found the best for me conciering price, traction on and off road, and tire wear were kenda 270's. 510x 18 in back, they are 6 ply. For the front they have a 3.0 and a 3.5 available. They are sold as 50/50. I just bought a front from Dennis Kirk and paid 49 bucks. They also have 17 inch available for the newer bikes.

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Old 02-25-2013, 06:41 AM   #3933
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I need some help re: swing arm

Right, I am stuck - my 3TB is slowly going back together and I am just trying to fit the swing arm but I am stuck. This is the parts diagram:



What has me foxed is on the main pivot - specifically parts #7 and #49. Now the diagram shows #7 between the swing arm and the rubber grommet #6 that fits inside the end cap #5
If I fit it up in this order the end cap and grommet don't fit on the end of the swing arm at all - the washer blocks them. To me it makes more sense that #7 fits inside the end cap and then the rubber grommet goes in - this them fits to the swing arm. Is the diagram wrong?

Finally what is #49? I don't seem to have that at all plus my chain roller seems to be way too loose between the flange on the swing arm and the frame - does #49 support the chain protector (#9)

Thanks!
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:22 AM   #3934
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Put 49 & 7 inside 5 followed by 6. 49 is to hold the washer (7) in place so the swinging arm pin (44) can go in easily. 49 is probably already inside 5.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:00 AM   #3935
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Thanks very much - that was driving me mad!

Is there anything that stops the roller (#9) from moving around on the end cap? Mine seems to be quite loose (although that was when I had it fitted up without the #7 washers in the right place.
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:02 PM   #3936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpthumpthump View Post
Here are a couple of pictures of my 86 xt600. I have made a few changes from stock. After market fenders , ditched the side panels, 7 inc. head light , trail tech gauge, solid aluminum flat track bars, tt 600 carbs, progressive fork springs, bark busters, no slip seat cover, ditched the batery and air box, twin K&N filters covered with foam wraper, Super Trapp slipon, grab handle,head light rock guard, and a few other minor changes.
Thumpthumpthump!!!
I'm interested in a bit more info on that TT600 carb swap if you'd feel up to chatting about it. I have a '84 XT and its showing its age compared to my buddies newer KLRs etc. What year range carb did you swap in and how is your gas mileage holding up? I can find used carbs online for a reasonable price. the adjustable needles would really help. Thanks!
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:11 AM   #3937
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Any first generation[84-89] tt600 carb will work. New models may work but I have never seen any. The tt carbs will give you a choke on the carb so you can ditch the bar mounted system and the cable. It will give you adjustable slide needles to help tune in any modifacations. You will loose the enrichment circuit but have not noticed any difference, but you do not have to worry about the diaphragm. I switched to get the adjustability of the needles and to ditch the bar mounted choke. When I switched from the stock air box and went to K&N pods I had to up the mains to keep from running lean. What I got a big rush of power at the upper RPM range where it was flat before. If you are keeping everything stock the only advantage would be getting rid if the bar mounted choke. However; if you are after more perfomance the carbs are sometimes cheeper than replacement jets. The tt carbs come with 135 main and 135 or 130 secondary. The xt carbs come with a 130 main and a 125 secondary. The air screws are different also. Getting more air makes a more of a difference than changeing the exhaust. If you have any questions let me know. My XT will dust my buddies KLRs. My mileage varies from 50 to 60 mpg depending on how had I push.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:38 PM   #3938
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WOOOOOOOT!!! Thumpthumpthump, you're my hero.

With "performance parts for the XT's being scarce, just being able to throw in a new carb set and filters and get this sucker over 75 mph will help! (she really bogs down after about 60-65). Also if you would like to help me with my battery elimination setup I'd really appreciate it, what kind/size of capacitor did you install or did you buy a kit? Thanks again and happy thumpin!
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:11 PM   #3939
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With 15 primary and 45 secondary sprokets I can hit 100 mph at redline. It will try to go past that so you have to watch your tach.Accel makes makes the eliminator and cheep cycle parts .com sells it for 39.94. Just take battery and box out , make amount for your rectifier , and connect the battry cables to the condenser. Mount the condenser and your done. The eliminator is the size of a D battery and weighs about the same as ball of tinfoil. To correct an error in my last post the pilot jet is different not the air screw[oops]. To put the K&Ns on get a piece of exhaust pipe from an auto parts store and cut two pieces about 3/4 of an inch wide and incert them into the tubes that run from the air box to the carb. this will give you something to tighten the hose clamp down on when you mount the K&N pods. To keep the really heavy dirt off I put a green outer filter from a shop vac over both pods to act as a pre filter. Lowes hardware sells them for a couple of bucks.Let me know if you have any other questions. thumpthump

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Old 03-02-2013, 10:43 AM   #3940
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Thanks again Thumpthump. You got me all of the information I'll need to finish the mods. I was scheduled to do it this winter while the snow was falling but life happened. Anyways, I owe you a beer if you're ever on this side of the US.

I'll also try the 15/45 sprockets when I change em in a month or so and see if that's part of my problem. I'm not actually sure whats on there now. Its almost sunny and 56* out so I'm going to go thump around!
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:00 PM   #3941
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TT600 Oil Tank On 86 Xt600

I think I read here where someone mounted a TT600 Oil tank on an XT600. Can someone post some pictures of it and any details of installation, parts needed etc.

Since my first post here, I found a tank and hoses on eBay along with the long thru bolt, spacer and nut. Anxious to make the change.

Thank you.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:16 PM   #3942
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You need the tt600 oil tank and both oil lines . You need a bolt with a nut that will reach from one side of your frame to the other and a tube to use as a sleve to fit over the bolt after it goes through the tt oil tank.[ you need to go on bike bandit and look at a parts schematic] ; yes, if you have not looked at one the bolt goes through the tank.You have to make two tabs and wield them on the frame on each side to attach the bolt that goes through the tank .[ bolt -tab-tank-sleve-tab-nut] The other mounting point is already on the frame from the XT tank. The TT tank goes where the battry box is on the XT. So you would have to take it out and use a battry eliminator instead.You loose a lot of weight also. The info on the eliminator is two posts back. There ia a tab on the XT frame on the left side that has a bolt hole for the battry box and the side cover peg hole . You will have to remove the part of the tab that has the battry box mount hole. You can leave the part that has the side cover peg hole. OK , that was the easy part. Now you have to remove the xt oil tank and oil lines , seat, airbox, and the rear shock to get the tank into the frame.After you get the TT oil tank in and lines hooked up you have to relocate the rectifier under the seat. I'll try and get pictures if any one really wants to do this, but if you look at the frame and oil tank schematics on bike bandit you will get the idea. The advantages are; safer location for the tank, the wieght will be moved lower and further forward for a more centralized cenrt of gravity. This will help turning and less top heavy feel. You will also have more clearance for a wider rear tire. So if any body is really going to do this let me know if you want pictures or more or clearer directions.thumpthump

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Old 03-02-2013, 05:32 PM   #3943
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TT600 Oil Tank On 86 Xt600

Thank you for your reply. Yes, I would like pictures. I am rebuilding ground up so now is the time to do this. I like the idea of moving it to protect it and allow a wider tire. Lower center of gravity is also good but not the main reason for wanting to do it. I always worry about the tank getting dinged or worse.

Steve
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:45 AM   #3944
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Picked this up for a first bike. Doesn't need much, but the the carbs need work. Im not sure if Im going to replace them with a better used set, bring it to a shop, or do a carb swap of some sort. What do you guys think?
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:29 AM   #3945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GClark View Post


Picked this up for a first bike. Doesn't need much, but the the carbs need work. Im not sure if Im going to replace them with a better used set, bring it to a shop, or do a carb swap of some sort. What do you guys think?
The carbs are easy to work on.
Parts are available.
Go for it.
Or take it to someone.
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