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Old 11-22-2011, 02:37 PM   #3571
oregonlmd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
I'm curious to hear opinions also. I know Gaspipe raves about the Terrain Tamer for the RFS bikes. I'm thinking of getting mine done and I was pondering sending them to Bruce vs local NorthWest places where I could just drop-off (MotoPro, Konflict etc).
Darrel Reed in Newberg, OR, Suspension By Design, has worked 3 of my bikes (two 525's, one 300xc) and I've been happy with the results. The 525's were set up more for easy trail riding, and the 300 for faster riding. Both were really close as delivered, requiring minimal twiddling of the clickers to be just right. The 525 setup worked OK for loaded exploring, too. I'd change the springs, turn in the clickers some, and the suspension would work at least satisfactorily considering how I revised my riding style for dualsport SE Oregon exploring.
I'm psyched to give his work a plug when I can because he'll work with you for as long as it takes to get it right if you're not satisfied and he's so darned accommodating it's crazy. Prices are reasonable. And, he's very local to Portland, OR, of course.
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:06 PM   #3572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oregonlmd View Post
Darrel Reed in Newberg, OR, Suspension By Design, has worked 3 of my bikes (two 525's, one 300xc) and I've been happy with the results. The 525's were set up more for easy trail riding, and the 300 for faster riding. Both were really close as delivered, requiring minimal twiddling of the clickers to be just right. The 525 setup worked OK for loaded exploring, too. I'd change the springs, turn in the clickers some, and the suspension would work at least satisfactorily considering how I revised my riding style for dualsport SE Oregon exploring.
I'm psyched to give his work a plug when I can because he'll work with you for as long as it takes to get it right if you're not satisfied and he's so darned accommodating it's crazy. Prices are reasonable. And, he's very local to Portland, OR, of course.
Yeah, I started this thread in regionals. Other top contender seems to be ProMotion. That's probably more convenient for me than Newburg.

This said, i'm still very curious on the "terrain tamer" (though I'm worried as I keep thinking "tension tamer", what does this mean?). My understanding is that it's a more fundamental (and harder to reverse) modification to the fork internals than a standard revalve.
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:42 PM   #3573
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Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
Search back here. Luke posted. Basically wrap as much wire around the poles (obviously each pole same) isn't the correct approach. There is a given number of wraps that is optimal for your desired end result, either way, that isn't "max it out". We tested mine and it's a net loss to the charging system with just the headlight on. Fan plus headlight and I'm kicking.
Thanks. After a look back, I guess I just followed TT's instructions, I didn't do the full rewind like spokanister.
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:44 PM   #3574
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Thanks. After a look back, I guess I just followed TT's instructions, I didn't do the full rewind like spokanister.
I didn't know TT had instructions. I wish I'd known
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:42 PM   #3575
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I didn't know TT had instructions. I wish I'd known
I'm not sure how to get to the instructions from TT's site; here's the link for anyone that needs it: http://www.trailtech.net/images/dc_c...ersion_ktm.pdf
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:10 PM   #3576
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Originally Posted by yondering View Post
I'm not sure how to get to the instructions from TT's site; here's the link for anyone that needs it: http://www.trailtech.net/images/dc_c...ersion_ktm.pdf
I'd seen that before, it's primarily for floating the ground. I'd never noticed the following sentence:

Step #4
Solder an extension wire to the ground lead (see Fig. 2). If 18 or 20-gage magnet wire (class H or Class C) is available, the pole
can be wound to capacity, an additional 10% of power can be gained for lighting or other use (see Fig 3).

This is the only reference to rewinding I can see and they are talking about adding 18/20ga to just one pole (see picture). I'm skeptical that this would get you +10%.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:13 PM   #3577
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Step #4
Solder an extension wire to the ground lead (see Fig. 2). If 18 or 20-gage magnet wire (class H or Class C) is available, the pole
can be wound to capacity, an additional 10% of power can be gained for lighting or other use (see Fig 3).
I did this on mine. No idea what it gained me, but it's adequate for my 55/60W headlight, taillight, fans, and repeated stalls and restarts. I'm guessing still less output than a TrailTech stator though.
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:05 AM   #3578
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quick question for those of you doing the rewind thing, is this just for more capacity or are there other benefits?
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:38 AM   #3579
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This is a repost of something from KTMtalk:

Quote:
There is another player, Evan at Race Tech Electric. http://www.racetechelectric.com/ who's website is still under construction. Evan's a great guy, and I suspect he'll do well. I'd give him a call.

Got some more information about Race Tech when they came to the studio for a product shoot yesterday. They're using a three-phase system with one of those giant finned regulators, claiming somewhere between 150 and 200 watts.

I decided to try one- I'll let you know the outcome. In the interest of full and complete disclosure, I was compensated (I'm a prostitute!) to take pictures, but not to promote their stuff. If you want to disbelieve this (or any) of my posts, please do so.

Here's one for an XR650 (not yet post-produced, forgive the image issues):

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Old 11-24-2011, 09:19 AM   #3580
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This is a repost of something from KTMtalk:
Got some more information about Race Tech when they came to the studio for a product shoot yesterday. They're using a three-phase system with one of those giant finned regulators, claiming somewhere between 150 and 200 watts.
Evan Grist used to be at Electrosport (Electrex USA). I bought something from him here on the Flea Market a couple years ago right after he'd left Electrosport.

Seemed like a nice guy. This said, the long thread about Electrosports 3-phase stator for the RFS is a true ktmtalk horror show.

It would be great if his design is better ........
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:29 AM   #3581
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It would be great if his design is better ........
Agreed. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 11-24-2011, 11:14 PM   #3582
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Anyone know what causes output shaft splines to wear prematurely?
Just looking on another thread where a guy has about 13,000km on his 530, and the splines have gone to shit. half road riding half dirt.
Reckons it's because a lack of cush, but i would imagine a knobby tyre has more than enough give in it.

I want to prevent that on my 525, splitting the cases isn't in my mind for at least 30,000km!
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:57 PM   #3583
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Originally Posted by ADVJake View Post
Anyone know what causes output shaft splines to wear prematurely?
Just looking on another thread where a guy has about 13,000km on his 530, and the splines have gone to shit. half road riding half dirt.
Reckons it's because a lack of cush, but i would imagine a knobby tyre has more than enough give in it.

I want to prevent that on my 525, splitting the cases isn't in my mind for at least 30,000km!
Typically caused by non-oem countershaft sprockets. Also had a run of bad hardening at some point IIRC
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Old 11-26-2011, 01:33 PM   #3584
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Typically caused by non-oem countershaft sprockets. Also had a run of bad hardening at some point IIRC
GSNorcal had tested a couple of worn shafts and sprockets, and these are the results as he posted them on KTMTalk. It doesn't look like shaft hardening is the issue. I'd be interested to hear what his final thoughts are, as the thread over there didn't really conclude anything.

Quote:
Hi,

I finally tested the hardness of my parts. Here's what I found (Rockwell C scale):

Original countershaft: 57
Second countershaft: 57
New countershaft: 58

New KTM sprocket: 54
Used KTM sprocket: 55
Used JT sprocket: 58

The sprockets were tested on the inside bearing area, close to the splines. The shafts were tested on the raised portion of the splines, inboard of the wear area.

So, there's not much of a story to tell here. Pretty consistent heat treating I'd say. The sprockets are NOT harder than the shafts. Kind of puts those theories to rest.

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Old 11-26-2011, 02:03 PM   #3585
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My completely uneducated guess is that dirt does the damage.

I was always finding dirt behind the washer in the splines and considering the sprocket is always moving on the shaft I figured dirt probably wasn't the best thing to have in there.

I've been putting my sprockets on with loctite, it never locks the sprocket on but it fills the gaps where dirt usually ends up filling and it's always still in there when I replace the sprocket.

I tried silicone sealant this time so it'll be interesting to see how that goes.

DRjoe screwed with this post 11-28-2011 at 11:11 AM
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