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Old 09-04-2012, 07:14 PM   #4126
bhorocks
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Man thats sooo much money though for cooler and stator.... Anyone want to sell their ht cooler?

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Old 09-04-2012, 07:59 PM   #4127
lq9crew
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Originally Posted by mookymoo View Post
Anyone have a pic of how this switch is supposed to mount?


I used the rear bolt on the bar clamp for the front brake master cylinder. Looks like hell, totally out of the way.
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:14 AM   #4128
Rabbot
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For those worried about the oil change interval, a good friend of mine and myself are changing everything, oil and both filters, every 20 hours. Oil looks dark in the pail, but on closer inspection it is clear enough to read through. Mine will use about an ounce in that 20 hour period. Some, maybe all, of it is coming out the counter sprocket shaft. I plan to fix that over the winter.

We both have 17's and knobs so they are seeing a little bit of everything. I've got almost 6000 miles on mine and she has just over 13k. Before you say oh she's a girl, know she is very fast. Whips up on the boys all the time. She is the fastest person around here and is why I ride with her. If I get caught daydreaming, I'm looking for tenths to reel her back in. My "A enduro" days are over, but I'm no slouch. I live and ride in the southeast. I question the need for the oil cooler. I don't even run the fan. I've never overheated.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:27 AM   #4129
LukasM
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Location: On a RTW ride - currently Central Asia
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Originally Posted by Tusker View Post
I'm very interested in this light setup, but can't find any information on it; where/how to buy, etc. Anyone know how I can learn a bit more?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chippertheripper View Post
The jury is still out on the Cush drive hub, for me. I ride my bike like an idiot (it's a race bike) and have yet to see the kind of wear pictured a few pages ago. Tread even lighter, that spline will last that much longer.

How many hours / miles on it?
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:08 AM   #4130
hizzo3
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Originally Posted by Rabbot View Post
For those worried about the oil change interval, a good friend of mine and myself are changing everything, oil and both filters, every 20 hours. Oil looks dark in the pail, but on closer inspection it is clear enough to read through. Mine will use about an ounce in that 20 hour period. Some, maybe all, of it is coming out the counter sprocket shaft. I plan to fix that over the winter.
20 hours is about 700- 1400 miles. For a light weight adventure bike, I would want closer to 2000, which is why I have interest in the HT oil cooler. More oil capacity = longer runs between oil changes with all other things equal. Even if it wasn't a cooler and just a resovoir, I would consider it.

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Old 09-05-2012, 07:57 AM   #4131
CodyY
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Originally Posted by clapped_r6 View Post


seriously tho, who's running the TT stator AND the HT Racing cooler together? probs? idle voltage? etc
I is.

No probs here. Starts every time you hit the button. 60w headlight, fan, gps, heated grips, and helmet lights.

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Old 09-05-2012, 08:09 AM   #4132
team ftb
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After 5 years of running my 525 w/HT cooler on DS rides I can feel the deterioration in the shifting quality from the motor once I'm much over the 1000 mile range. At the 1500 mile range the shifting notchiness is evident. Which in my uneducated eyes indicates the oil is not doing as good a job as it once did.

This is a crappy pic of oil drained at about 1200 miles.



2000 miles is asking a bit much according to my highly calibrated left toes. But I've never sent oil in for analysis so i could be waaaay off base.



Here's my final drive shaft at 470 hours run without a cush hub and used for DS riding and motard use.


Originally Posted by chippertheripper
"The jury is still out on the Cush drive hub, for me. I ride my bike like an idiot (it's a race bike) and have yet to see the kind of wear pictured a few pages ago. Tread even lighter, that spline will last that much longer."



It's not mandatory as the damage usually takes awhile to surface but it does happen over time. The shaft is not an expensive part but installing it is not fun. If your chain is adjusted too tight you will accelerate the wear on the shaft.

Crazybrit - HT cooler w/ TT stator and it has worked for me with no issues though I've never checked the volts.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:19 AM   #4133
CodyY
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Same here. 525 and 950 get notchy when the oil gets funky
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:30 AM   #4134
clapped_r6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodyY View Post
I is.

No probs here. Starts every time you hit the button. 60w headlight, fan, gps, heated grips, and helmet lights.

good to hear. i really wanted both items to work together. cavematt like heated grips (cavematt eyeballing the new drop in headlight from sanjoh too, need DC for that anyways)

Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post

Crazybrit - HT cooler w/ TT stator and it has worked for me with no issues though I've never checked the volts.
nice. you don't happen to have a voltmeter, and see what kinda volts you're putting out at idle?
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:17 AM   #4135
crazybrit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodyY View Post
I is.

No probs here. Starts every time you hit the button. 60w headlight, fan, gps, heated grips, and helmet lights.

So two have failed for me. It's not a difficult install. Both immediately after install (though I'd probably have not noticed unless i was actually measuring for a short).

The first shorted (according to Trailtech) due to the metal wire clamp on the stator cutting through the pvc sheathing and through one of the yellow wires. Since this metal clamp is grounded ....

This image is of my second one (which also failed, but I've yet to debug). Red annotation is Trailtech's showing where the first failed and how they were pondering it happened.





Here it is installed:



The metal cable clamp on the Trailtech holds the wire tight and the wire comes out at a different angle, versus the OEM (plastic).





This is how the wire wants to route when the stator is dropped in, trailtech first, oem second







The cable on the Trailtech is pretty stiff. It doesn't really bend (unlike the ktm). You can see in the pics that it doesn't really want to follow the channel machined into the HT cover.

Anyways, today I get to put the second in the oven and figure out where it's shorted. If it's the same place I'm going to remove the connectors and replace that section of pvc sheathing with some fiber the same as the ktm stator uses internally.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:47 AM   #4136
CodyY
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Dunno bro, mine dropped right in.

No voltage readings but it's only weak if I don't keep the tender on the 5 year-old Battery. Once it's ran, she's ready to rock.

Can't check right now, topend still apart cuz I'm broke
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:14 AM   #4137
hizzo3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post





This is how the wire wants to route when the stator is dropped in, trailtech first, oem second
That OEM is wound extremely messy. I've hand wound stators to rebuild them and get boosted output. While it is a pain, well worth it if you need the juice. Poor wounds = poor efficiency and lost wattage.

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Old 09-05-2012, 10:17 AM   #4138
chippertheripper
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Aside from the wires chaffing on the back of the oil cooler, I can't fathom the connection between one not working with the other...what am I missing?
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:50 AM   #4139
crazybrit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hizzo3 View Post
That OEM is wound extremely messy. I've hand wound stators to rebuild them and get boosted output. While it is a pain, well worth it if you need the juice. Poor wounds = poor efficiency and lost wattage.
That's not an OEM wound. That's the crazybrit home wind v1 of an original KTM stator. The part of the wiring that's relevant to the above discussion (through the plastic wire clamp) is 100% stock/KTM.

It works fine (no shorts ) but I ended up following the Spokanister instructions online (max out each pole, albeit consistent winds per pole). As Luke posted here a while ago, that's not correct, he posted the correct #winds and it's less than max but more than stock.

It's also possible that the lack of output is due to the messyness you mention, first time I've ever tried doing it.

Either way, since I lack the time to do another rewind I bought the Trailtech.
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:03 PM   #4140
hizzo3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
That's not an OEM wound. That's the crazybrit home wind v1 of an original KTM stator. The part of the wiring that's relevant to the above discussion (through the plastic wire clamp) is 100% stock/KTM.

It works fine (no shorts ) but I ended up following the Spokanister instructions online (max out each pole, albeit consistent winds per pole). As Luke posted here a while ago, that's not correct, he posted the correct #winds and it's less than max but more than stock.

It's also possible that the lack of output is due to the messyness you mention, first time I've ever tried doing it.

Either way, since I lack the time to do another rewind I bought the Trailtech.
Sorry, didn't realize that was your first rewind. Then its understandable, and pretty good job for your first considering the task. My fingers hurt for days after my first few rewinds until I discovered popsicle sticks. If you wind again, remember that copper density is what gives you your amperage. That means tighter/neater coils around the ferro core, square wire, thicker wire, or if you can really handle the madness, use 1/2 gauge but run double wires per turn. Turns just equal voltage. If you need more idle umph, a few extra turns help but keep in mind voltage is linear with engine rpm, which means more turns means higher Max voltage.

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