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Old 06-22-2012, 06:59 PM   #5116
AugustFalcon
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Originally Posted by frog13 View Post
So,in order to save some $$$$(I think?) I've been wanting to use some additional lights on my TW. My plan was to get a Shorai battery ( Lithium ) and power two low amp auxiliary lights,but use a solar battery charger for the Shorai.This way,I could switch this battery and light unit from bike to bike.....one set up for multiple bikes.So,can anyone advise on info for this.....a solar charger that is?. Thanks.
You do realize that a Shorai battery is actually only about 6 AH. They are rated at 18 AH equivalent because of their starting current characteristics. Further they have some specific charging requirements and occasionally need to be put on a special charger to equalize the cells. Don't think a solar battery charger would be able to charge it properly.

I would recommend you look at a battery with different chemistry than Li-FE.
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:17 PM   #5117
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Originally Posted by AugustFalcon View Post
You do realize that a Shorai battery is actually only about 6 AH. They are rated at 18 AH equivalent because of their starting current characteristics. Further they have some specific charging requirements and occasionally need to be put on a special charger to equalize the cells. Don't think a solar battery charger would be able to charge it properly.

I would recommend you look at a battery with different chemistry than Li-FE.
I have been riding over 20,000 miles with my Shorai LFX09A2-B12 battery which is rated at 9 A/Hr and 135 CCA. This battery reliably and easily starts my Honda XR650L. I have never had to charge my battery since I purchased it; my bike's electrical system has maintained the Shorai battery very well. I do not own a special charger, nor do I need a special charger to "equalize the cells" of the battery. Based upon my experience, I can highly recommend the Shorai batteries without any reservations whatsoever.

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Old 06-22-2012, 10:48 PM   #5118
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This was the first dirt/gravel I rode on,
This thread helped me decide a 250cc was good enough, I'm finding myself riding this more than my Harley, which puts me a little outa place here in Milwaukee. Can't do a long haul because the Break in periods so long! cant go over 5000 rpm 'til 1000 miles, than only 6000rpm 'til 2000 miles. That puts me at 48mph top speed. This sucks!
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:08 PM   #5119
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Originally Posted by djvx View Post
This thread helped me decide a 250cc was good enough, I'm finding myself riding this more than my Harley, which puts me a little outa place here in Milwaukee. Can't do a long haul because the Break in periods so long! cant go over 5000 rpm 'til 1000 miles, than only 6000rpm 'til 2000 miles. That puts me at 48mph top speed. This sucks!
I would just run it anyway. It's odd that a 200cc bike has become my main ride, but there it is. The bigger bikes wait for bigger missions.
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:23 PM   #5120
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Last year I was briefly addicted to the powerful torque of my Honda XR650L. I now prefer to ride my Zongshen 200GY-2 on the mountain trails. I think a 200cc-250cc motorcycle is the prefect choice for many of us.



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Old 06-22-2012, 11:28 PM   #5121
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Last year I was briefly addicted to the powerful torque of my Honda XR650L. I now prefer to ride my Zongshen 200GY-2 on the mountain trails. I think a 200cc-250cc motorcycle is the prefect choice for many of us.



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yes same here... My XR250 is the bike of choice over my XT660R
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:53 PM   #5122
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Hello Milwaukee

Quote:
Originally Posted by djvx View Post
This thread helped me decide a 250cc was good enough, I'm finding myself riding this more than my Harley, which puts me a little outa place here in Milwaukee. Can't do a long haul because the Break in periods so long! cant go over 5000 rpm 'til 1000 miles, than only 6000rpm 'til 2000 miles. That puts me at 48mph top speed. This sucks!
Greetings from Portage!

That is quite a break in period. I'd say after 1000 miles, change the oil and drive it like normal, and change the oil again at 2000 miles, then go to normal intervals on the oil changes...

Say hi to my sister, if you see her, she lives in Milwaukee too!
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:10 AM   #5123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djvx View Post
This thread helped me decide a 250cc was good enough, I'm finding myself riding this more than my Harley, which puts me a little outa place here in Milwaukee. Can't do a long haul because the Break in periods so long! cant go over 5000 rpm 'til 1000 miles, than only 6000rpm 'til 2000 miles. That puts me at 48mph top speed. This sucks!
You should google the moto man break in method, may get you on the road faster.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:05 AM   #5124
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motoman

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Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post
You should google the moto man break in method, may get you on the road faster.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Agreed. You need to rev the engine through its range to create pressure and seal the piston rings. Try not to leave it at any rpm for extended periods for first 1000 miles. Wouldn't say ride it hard, but ride it normal and change oil a bit more often for early miles. Say 200, 500, then 1000 then every 2500 or so. Oil is cheap. Have fun, that is a great looking SUMO. We have the CRF230M as the KLX was a bit too tall for my wife.
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:58 AM   #5125
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Motoman method

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post
You should google the moto man break in method, may get you on the road faster.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I'd do it that way too, but if it sounds to harsh... it's really not, the other chiming in about varying rpm running normal (not beating it) but using the full rpm range etc, is the best way. Oil changes, I was under the assumption you already hit 1000 miles... but if you haven't yet change it at 500 then 1000 and after that the usual 2500 ish. I use cheaper oil on the break in because the oil is not worn out, you are merely flushing out the possible debris from break in.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:39 AM   #5126
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Originally Posted by nashopolis View Post
Howdy folks I just got myself a dr250
Very excited - I've been thinking about how I might add some cheap bags to the bike without racks

Can anyone help me with some pics of how I might attach bags/backpacks whatever over the back of the seat in a way that won't melt the sidecover or end up in the wheel?

Can you make a stand off for the side cover on the muffler side to give it some airspace? Would that work?
Many thanks for the large repository of info here! Inspiring!
Go to Lowe's or whatever they call the hardware stores in your area.....they sell sheets of stock metal (aluminum... etc.) even if you secured it to the exhaust with a plumbers strap,it would work.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:52 AM   #5127
frog13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AugustFalcon View Post
You do realize that a Shorai battery is actually only about 6 AH. They are rated at 18 AH equivalent because of their starting current characteristics. Further they have some specific charging requirements and occasionally need to be put on a special charger to equalize the cells. Don't think a solar battery charger would be able to charge it properly.

I would recommend you look at a battery with different chemistry than Li-FE.

Battery tenders "brand" of chargers are acceptable for Shorai....per,Shorai. Also, the Ah is a bit higher than stated....I wouldn't be running the lights all of the time anyways....the search continues.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:10 PM   #5128
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Originally Posted by djvx View Post
This thread helped me decide a 250cc was good enough, I'm finding myself riding this more than my Harley, which puts me a little outa place here in Milwaukee. Can't do a long haul because the Break in periods so long! cant go over 5000 rpm 'til 1000 miles, than only 6000rpm 'til 2000 miles. That puts me at 48mph top speed. This sucks!
IMO, Mamma Kawi is out to lunch on that one. Same sh*t in every Kawi manual, regardless on the type of bike. Those RPMs might make sense on a 1500cc V-Twin, but not on a single, or a sporty bike. Wifey's Ninja 250 couldn't hit 45 mph without breaking that RPM. Not sure RPM on her Super Sherpa since it doesn't have a tach, but the same low RPM statement is in that manual. Riding like that is DANGEROUS!

Someone noted above that you should consider the Motoman break-in method. I did a variation on that on the only new bike I have bought since the early '80s, a CBF1000 (a sport-tourer with a detuned 4-cylinder sport-bike engine). After 2 years, the bike is happy, and, it was broken in the first weekend. First oil and filter change was at around 90 kms (~60 miles), 2nd was at 1000km, or ~600 miles, 3rd at 4000 km (3k miles). For reference, the service manual indicates oil and filer changes are due at 1k, 6k, 12k (600, 3,600, 8,000).

To me, Motoman makes a lot of sense. Lots to read if you Google it.

Motoman: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I did more-or-less what Motoman and Calsci recommend, which are similar: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html#BreakIn I made a schedule, increased RPM after each cycle, and did something like 3500, total cool down, 5000, 6500, and finally 8000 (redline is around 10k) before the first change, varying throttle and gears almost constantly

I have used nothing but Shell Rotella T synthetic since that first change. I think the myth of "factory break-in oil" is BS. I believe the Japanese manufacturers use cheap motor oil, and I wanted it and the metal bits from parts wearing in out of my engine as soon as possible.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:59 PM   #5129
Hannda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djvx View Post
This thread helped me decide a 250cc was good enough, I'm finding myself riding this more than my Harley, which puts me a little outa place here in Milwaukee. Can't do a long haul because the Break in periods so long! cant go over 5000 rpm 'til 1000 miles, than only 6000rpm 'til 2000 miles. That puts me at 48mph top speed. This sucks!
I neither recommend nor argue against. I merely put this out there for your edification.
And it's the only way I break in a bike.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


And while I may neither recommend nor argue against, I do seem to get 205's a bunch.
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:41 PM   #5130
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I always rode my new bikes like normal right off the bat.
I just don't over heat them, stuck in traffic, or full throttle for long times, and had good results with it.
In the case of my TU250, I beat the crap out of it right from the start, since its got to be to keep up with traffic.
Almost 11,000 miles and it runs better then ever.
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