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Old 03-18-2013, 07:17 PM   #6136
Rhompin45
Rhompin45
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Chandler arizona
Oddometer: 214
I went on an almost 200 mile journey on the tu250. I got some pictures but I don't know how to load pictures or even know if I can only having a phone for Internet. I went about 5 miles on a well maintained dirt road and then got side tract and found a jeep trail that I went down about 100 yards or so and had to turn around due to steep loose dirt incline. It was a great time out as always. Thanks al for the advise on the carb question. I had looked at the wr250 but I kinda thought they were mostly for offroad and maybe bad road manners. But I love the way they look. Also anyone out there with an original xt250? My friend has an 81 but it doesn't seem to be able to go over 60 with out the motor sounding like it going to blow up from high Rpms what's the original gearing or what have people gone to to cruze at 60 65? I hear people that can do it.
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:40 AM   #6137
Slipinn
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Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Bradenton Florida
Oddometer: 24
Question Pictures how to upload or embed

Many of us new members on here do not post because we don't know how to do it on the forums. Hope some experienced members will give us dumb guys some help on it.

Gearing- If your engine is maxed out in rpms at 60mph you need to go up a tooth or two on the front sprocket. Generallym going up one tooth on the front is equivalent to going up 3 on the rear.that will drop the top end rpm's of the engine and increase top end speed. I am installing an inexpensive rpm gauge on my xr250l to see what my final rpm is at. Does anyone's know what the redline is on a 1996 xr250l? I just got thru going thru my bike and finally fixed the hard starting problem. Bought the bike new in 96 and only has 1100 miles on it mostly due to its hard to start issue. Even took it to the dealer back when it was new (600 miles on it) and had valves adjusted . It was even harder to start then.
Recently I disconnected the compression release and now it starts pretty easy!
I also did the accellerator pump fix at the same time. I think what happened is that the dealer did not adjust the decompresser right but made it worse. First bike I ever had with a decompresser on it.
I have a much bigger road bike but at 65 years old the Harley his harder to hold up and man handle around these days. I am seriously looking to trade these two bikes off and would like to get a DS at 300 lbs or so with largest engine possible such as a 400-600cc. Looking hard at the Honda xr650 but want to consider others too. My xr250l is great but struggles at 65 on the freeway.
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:51 AM   #6138
Nanabijou
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 659
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipinn View Post
Many of us new members on here do not post because we don't know how to do it on the forums. Hope some experienced members will give us dumb guys some help on it.
I use Tinypic http://tinypic.com/[/URL]

Easy to use and quick.

1. Browse to the Tinypic site. It looks like this:



2. Select "Browse" and find the image you wish to upload from your harddrive. For the "Resize" option I usually choose "Message Board 640x480" (or larger if needed). Then click "Upload Now!"



3. The capcha screen will then appear and you will either have to type in the answer to a simple question, or just type in some text. After having completed this - click "Upload Now!"



4. After a bit of a wait (depending on how large the image file size is) you will see the following screen appear.



If you click on the text underneath "IMG Code for Forums & Message Boards" it will be highlighted. You can right-click on it and select "copy" to copy the text. All you need to do then is just paste it into the message reply window you've created and where you want your photos to appear. You can do this by right-clicking in the window where your cursor is positioned, and selecting "paste" from the menu. When you preview the posting you will see the image appear where you pasted the link.

That's it! :)

Mike
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:43 AM   #6139
Yokomo
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: The Little Apple
Oddometer: 2,153
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipinn View Post
Many of us new members on here do not post because we don't know how to do it on the forums. Hope some experienced members will give us dumb guys some help on it.

Gearing- If your engine is maxed out in rpms at 60mph you need to go up a tooth or two on the front sprocket. Generallym going up one tooth on the front is equivalent to going up 3 on the rear.that will drop the top end rpm's of the engine and increase top end speed. I am installing an inexpensive rpm gauge on my xr250l to see what my final rpm is at. Does anyone's know what the redline is on a 1996 xr250l? I just got thru going thru my bike and finally fixed the hard starting problem. Bought the bike new in 96 and only has 1100 miles on it mostly due to its hard to start issue. Even took it to the dealer back when it was new (600 miles on it) and had valves adjusted . It was even harder to start then.
Recently I disconnected the compression release and now it starts pretty easy!
I also did the accellerator pump fix at the same time. I think what happened is that the dealer did not adjust the decompresser right but made it worse. First bike I ever had with a decompresser on it.
I have a much bigger road bike but at 65 years old the Harley his harder to hold up and man handle around these days. I am seriously looking to trade these two bikes off and would like to get a DS at 300 lbs or so with largest engine possible such as a 400-600cc. Looking hard at the Honda xr650 but want to consider others too. My xr250l is great but struggles at 65 on the freeway.
Have you raised the needle in the carb and dremeled off the ear tab on the air/fuel screw? That will help it a good amount.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:14 AM   #6140
zap2504
Dave E.
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Middletown, PA
Oddometer: 547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhompin45 View Post
Also anyone out there with an original xt250? My friend has an 81 but it doesn't seem to be able to go over 60 with out the motor sounding like it going to blow up from high Rpms what's the original gearing or what have people gone to to cruze at 60 65? I hear people that can do it.
I have a SR250 that has basically the same engine/drivetrain as the old XT250. The gearing on the SR250 is 16/46 (but others say 17/42 works better) and has no problems on the highways.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:32 AM   #6141
Birdmove
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Keaau, Hawaii
Oddometer: 1,533
Nanabijou, thank you so much for walking us through how to use tinypic.com!! I had written a review of an air rifle at a forum and could not get the photos to attach, as they were too large. I used tinypic and it worked GREAT!! The photos were of targets I shot with the air rifle.

I bookmarked the website.
Hey, I'm an old geezer and a Grandpa, and this computer stuff doesn't come so easy for me. It's way harder than riding motorcycles!

Thansk again.

Jon
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2008 SYM HD200 (wife's ride)
2009 Kymco People 150 and coming soon, another dual sport mc
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:02 PM   #6142
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,314
Best to use a photo hosting site, I use SmugMug, a paid site and that helps Baldy, the owner of ADVRider keep the lights on, or PhotoBucket etc., then just link to your uploaded photos. All the sites give you an easy way to copy the link to the photo.

here's how to post images on here... there's a link to a tutorial that explains it better than I do below.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919

Here's my wife's DR200 (photo stored on our SmugMug account), if you quote this message you'll see what the photo code looks like, but basically I copy the link while in Smugmug, click the photo button (looks like a picture of a mountain), paste my link and voila! photo appears.



Insert picture link button


insert picture dialog, paste your link from your photo hosting site here...

bross screwed with this post 03-19-2013 at 12:24 PM
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:52 PM   #6143
Slipinn
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Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Bradenton Florida
Oddometer: 24
Wicked Xr250l carb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo View Post
Have you raised the needle in the carb and dremeled off the ear tab on the air/fuel screw? That will help it a good amount.
Thank you for reminding me. I have removed the locking tab on the pilot screw and opened it to 2 1/4 turns.
I also installed an inline fuel filter. The slow speed jet has such little holes in it that a grain of sand could block them. Now am trying to find a solution to this awful ethanol . Must be some reasonably priced additive to prevent it gumming the carb when it sits for a couple of weeks. Was just at ace hardware and their additive for small engines is 10 bucks and on the can says treats one gallon!!!
That makes for some mighty expensive fuel.

I did not raise the needle thou because I was thinking the needle only has to do with the Main jet and would not come into play during start up or idle. Am I mistaken on this point and would raising the needle jet help on starting?
Thank you
Chuck
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:09 PM   #6144
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,314
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipinn View Post
Thank you for reminding me. I have removed the locking tab on the pilot screw and opened it to 2 1/4 turns.
I also installed an inline fuel filter. The slow speed jet has such little holes in it that a grain of sand could block them. Now am trying to find a solution to this awful ethanol . Must be some reasonably priced additive to prevent it gumming the carb when it sits for a couple of weeks. Was just at ace hardware and their additive for small engines is 10 bucks and on the can says treats one gallon!!!
That makes for some mighty expensive fuel.

I did not raise the needle thou because I was thinking the needle only has to do with the Main jet and would not come into play during start up or idle. Am I mistaken on this point and would raising the needle jet help on starting?
Thank you
Chuck
Try to find SeaFoam, it's usually $8-9 but treats 20 gal. or Amsoil Quickshot. I use Stabil in all our gas that may sit, gerry cans for chain saw, weed whacker etc. and make sure I stabilize all gas in our DRs because they can sit for months between rides sometimes. Then once in the spring and maybe once more during the season the bikes, quads etc. get a Seafoam treatment to clean them. Haven't had a problem with carbs gumming up yet.
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:18 PM   #6145
Ed@Ford
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Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Dearborn MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipinn View Post
Thank you for reminding me. I have removed the locking tab on the pilot screw and opened it to 2 1/4 turns.
I also installed an inline fuel filter. The slow speed jet has such little holes in it that a grain of sand could block them. Now am trying to find a solution to this awful ethanol . Must be some reasonably priced additive to prevent it gumming the carb when it sits for a couple of weeks. Was just at ace hardware and their additive for small engines is 10 bucks and on the can says treats one gallon!!!
That makes for some mighty expensive fuel.

I did not raise the needle thou because I was thinking the needle only has to do with the Main jet and would not come into play during start up or idle. Am I mistaken on this point and would raising the needle jet help on starting?
Thank you
Chuck
The lates issue of MCN (Motorcycle Consumer News) discusses ethanol related issues and additives....but sadly conjecture....not much experience
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:53 PM   #6146
SAPB
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Rhode Island
Oddometer: 1,319
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
The lates issue of MCN (Motorcycle Consumer News) discusses ethanol related issues and additives....but sadly conjecture....not much experience
The folks who are selling bikes (or cars) hopefully know what our gas is/isn't, and have engineered the engines accordingly (he said wishing this were true). Ethanol isn't new, all sorts of problems in the past, attracting water, and rusting tanks. Lots of folks running vintage bikes, with fiberglass tanks, are draining the tanks after riding. Boats with fiberglass tanks also experiencing problems. No ethanol free gas around here.
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CRF250L Service Manual http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owni...F250L13_OM.pdf
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:34 PM   #6147
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,314
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
The folks who are selling bikes (or cars) hopefully know what our gas is/isn't, and have engineered the engines accordingly (he said wishing this were true). Ethanol isn't new, all sorts of problems in the past, attracting water, and rusting tanks. Lots of folks running vintage bikes, with fiberglass tanks, are draining the tanks after riding. Boats with fiberglass tanks also experiencing problems. No ethanol free gas around here.
Possibly for a clean sheet design of a new bike, but doesn't help with a lot of current bikes like Suzuki's DR series, Honda XR, XLs which are basically unchanged for the past dozen or so, or longer years.

And as far as the manufacturers engineering in a fix or solution for ethanol, I wouldn't hold my breath. We've been running ethanol in our fuel for probably 15 years here in Canada and our new 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T has as part of it's regular maintenance...

one bottle of additive added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change is recommended. Additives are available from your authorized HYUNDAI dealer along with information on how to use them. Do not mix other additives.
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:48 PM   #6148
SAPB
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Location: Rhode Island
Oddometer: 1,319
Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Possibly for a clean sheet design of a new bike, but doesn't help with a lot of current bikes like Suzuki's DR series, Honda XR, XLs which are basically unchanged for the past dozen or so, or longer years.

And as far as the manufacturers engineering in a fix or solution for ethanol, I wouldn't hold my breath. We've been running ethanol in our fuel for probably 15 years here in Canada and our new 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T has as part of it's regular maintenance...

one bottle of additive added to the fuel tank at every engine oil change is recommended. Additives are available from your authorized HYUNDAI dealer along with information on how to use them. Do not mix other additives.
I've been using gas stabilizer for years, not knowing when the next time I would actually be able to ride. My daughter's most recent bike, the dealer recommended running it every other tank, even in the summer, because of the ethanol. This could open up a can of worms........My old boss, his father had a farm, and ran stabilizer in all his tractors, cars, and trucks, not knowing when they would ever be used. Too each his/her own, that's what I do.
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CRF250L Service Manual http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owni...F250L13_OM.pdf
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:17 PM   #6149
Yokomo
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: The Little Apple
Oddometer: 2,153
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipinn View Post
Thank you for reminding me. I have removed the locking tab on the pilot screw and opened it to 2 1/4 turns.
I also installed an inline fuel filter. The slow speed jet has such little holes in it that a grain of sand could block them. Now am trying to find a solution to this awful ethanol . Must be some reasonably priced additive to prevent it gumming the carb when it sits for a couple of weeks. Was just at ace hardware and their additive for small engines is 10 bucks and on the can says treats one gallon!!!
That makes for some mighty expensive fuel.

I did not raise the needle thou because I was thinking the needle only has to do with the Main jet and would not come into play during start up or idle. Am I mistaken on this point and would raising the needle jet help on starting?
Thank you
Chuck
I don't think it will help much with your starting ease. Mine started right up with ease after buzzing off the ear.
But I think if you raise the needle 2 washers your lean engine will be happier which may help it run 65mph without feeling so starved.
If you don't know how to do it check out this link. I used his tips for my 93 XR250L & my 85 XL350R. I noticed a real nice change on my XL. Power wheelies right up in 1st with ease.

http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fcarb.htm
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:19 AM   #6150
Earthscape
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Western Mass
Oddometer: 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipinn View Post
Thank you for reminding me. I have removed the locking tab on the pilot screw and opened it to 2 1/4 turns.
I also installed an inline fuel filter. The slow speed jet has such little holes in it that a grain of sand could block them. Now am trying to find a solution to this awful ethanol . Must be some reasonably priced additive to prevent it gumming the carb when it sits for a couple of weeks. Was just at ace hardware and their additive for small engines is 10 bucks and on the can says treats one gallon!!!
That makes for some mighty expensive fuel.
...
Chuck
I use a combination of Seafoam and Star Tron fuel treatment. Every tank, every bike, because I never know how long one will sit without use, and I have mostly relatively large fuel tanks. It does add significantly to the cost of fuel, but I'd gladly pay twice that to fill up with non-ethanol. Ethanol is evil stuff. It's basically filler, taking up space in your gas tank and wallet, and providing nothing but headaches in return. Not too long ago not many publications made a peep about it, but now it's finally getting some attention, none of it good. Do the additives work? Hard to say for sure. If a jet is completely clogged, it's all but hopeless and carb removal is about the only fix (some bikes, you can carefully remove the bowl and pilot jet without removing the carb, which is a huge time saver). If a jet is partially clogged, additives do seem to help clear the clog relatively quickly. Even though I always use the additives, when the bikes will be sitting over the winter I drain the fuel from the tank completely and allow them to dry inside. This is to prevent and reduce swelling to the plastic tanks, which make some of them difficult to impossible to mount. The only real fix is to not use ethanol, if you can. Ask your local gas station if they can get one grade of gas without ethanol from their distributor - sure it will cost more, but I bet they will sell out that tank far faster than they think no matter the price.
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