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Old 02-08-2007, 09:54 AM   #1
Rapid Dog OP
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Question R100GS missing on start

couple o questions.
when I crank my GS over cold it starts up but runs on one (left) cylinder for the first few rpm's then the right side kicks in. After that it runs fine.
Could this be a plugwire?
I have the moto electik NGK wires but they are not brand new.

Also, I noticed that the choke levers at the carbs don't seem to want to return on there own with the existing return springs when I move the choke lever back to off position.

Should I assume that it's just gummed up at the carbs, or is there somthing I should know about the bowden cylinder under the tank?
I cleaned and lubed it during my re-furb.

My old bike (1978) had the direct cable/lever on the side of the airbox so I'm not familiar with the gremlins of the bowden cylinder...
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Old 02-08-2007, 10:02 AM   #2
R-dubb
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They stick at the carb. You can test this by making sure the cable moves freely when the lever is held up by hand. It's possible you kinked the cable, but given the starting problem, I'm betting on gummed up carbs. When is the last time your carbs were treated to a new set of o-rings? Sounds to me like one jug is not getting fuel on start-up. You could have a blocked pilot or simply vacuum leaks around the o-rings.
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Old 02-08-2007, 10:03 AM   #3
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Check that your chokes on both cylinders are engaging.

Mine did that and I found one cable had broken!
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Old 02-08-2007, 10:31 AM   #4
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both are moving as they should, but they don't return by themselves all the way. a slight push on the lever returns them, but they do feel some resisteance (gum?)...

The only thing I've done to the carbs is a cleaning of the intakes/slides/bowls and new diaphrams.

I don't believe the cables are kinked.
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Old 02-08-2007, 11:17 AM   #5
datchew
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it would be quick and easy to check the continuity of the plug wires with a multimeter.
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Old 02-08-2007, 11:20 AM   #6
R-dubb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog
I don't believe the cables are kinked.
Need new o-rings, a clean pilot jet and choke circuit.
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Old 02-08-2007, 11:27 AM   #7
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which o-rings exactly? can you buy all these parts seperately or do you have to buy a complete carb kit(s)?
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Old 02-08-2007, 11:49 AM   #8
andmoon
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Mine did that when she had a cracked coil.
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Old 02-08-2007, 11:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog
which o-rings exactly? can you buy all these parts seperately or do you have to buy a complete carb kit(s)?
buy a carb kit that does not include diaphrams. (That would be a #1 kit.)

http://www.bingcarburetor.com/bmw/bmwcvkits.html
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:04 PM   #10
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Bing-o!

done. Bing #1 kit (no diaphrams) $37 shipped.

Thanks...I'll concentrate on the carbs before I worry about the spark.

Incidently I have, besides the NGK wires, the ME brown coil and new plugs.
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Old 02-08-2007, 02:15 PM   #11
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92 PD that did the same thing... one cylinder until the coil heated up. New coil fixed it.
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Old 02-09-2007, 07:43 AM   #12
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Bluhduh and Bing said, "bend over"

wow! I just called Bing, and asked about the #6 kit, full rebuild, $154
then I asked about the #4 kit, sans floats and pivot pins, $113 . I thought, well, Fuck ME! I graciously bowed out of the conversation with my stumbling thru the phrase "Let me call you back... I thought for some reason it was like $50..."

Now then, anyone have any suggestions on how to tell if I need new floats, etc, or a cheaper place to buy the stuff?
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Old 02-09-2007, 08:11 AM   #13
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like i said

....don't assume you need a complete carb rebuild.
ask yourself:
how long has the bike been sitting?
how many miles is on it?
does the bike start and run?
are you mechanically addept? you can f'm up worse if you don't pay attention.
may as well send them off and have them done for you as an alternative...

read Oak's article on rebuilding airhead CV carbs on airheads.org....he 'splains
the #1 kit may be all you need if that, at $37 shipped.

keep in mind that the diaphrams in the next kit run about $18 each at the dealer, 20% off if you go thru Chicago BMW. Full kits run about $50 +- from a dealer.

it's weird that they don't advert prices on their website...

go slow, concentrate on one thing at a time
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Old 02-09-2007, 09:04 AM   #14
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ok, ok

well, I may be getting a bit out of hand here with all this spending. I guess because I don't know a whole lot about how exactly things should be, and what is adequate, I just assume to myself that I should replace everything and start off fresh and all that crap, BUT, (and I hate to admit this)

YOU ARE RIGHT, AND I WILL TAKE YOUR SAGE ADVICE. THANK YOU.

I would imagine that not everything is shot, and that I should open it up first and see how things are in there. Part of my willingness to go ahead and get new stuff right now is not just bad habits, it is because I am getting 28-30mpg, which sucks real bad. I know I will never get super great mileage here, but it has got to be better than that. In any case, I need to remember that BMW owners are cheap ass bastards, and if I want to be a real owner, I need to tighten things up, get real thrifty and what not.
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Old 02-09-2007, 09:07 AM   #15
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I am sure that you know this, but to put it out there again....

The BMW kits do not come with the needle and needle jet. If your bike is around 40-ish miles replace these as the are a part that does wear out.

Additional foot note, the little rubber tipped jobbers actuated by the float are freekin expensive, I think something like $13 each... I would ony replace these float needles if your carbs leak.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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