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Old 02-13-2007, 02:27 PM   #46
RandyB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog
a 145? 145 which?
2.68 idle jet?
http://www.bingcarburetor.com/pdf/MO...DED%20VIEW.pdf

Parts 1,3 and 5 are what you need to replace. Probably.

Read this first. http://home.insightbb.com/~cdpumphr/...chronicles.htm You're warned.
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Old 02-13-2007, 02:55 PM   #47
Rapid Dog OP
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i ike the how to link...we'll see how it goes...
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Old 02-13-2007, 08:18 PM   #48
dfc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wintonio
if you would do me a favor, please take a pic of this same left side choke body housing, but with the choke body properly oriented in it. I am not sure if I put mine in upside down or not, but I am learning, almost the hard way, that I need to start taking notes, either written or photographic, and quit relying on my faulty memory... the dumbass in me strikes again (coincidentally, I am at the part in The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance when he is discussing ways to prevent some of the "gumption" busters)
Wintonator, I think I had the same issue with that choke plate the first time around, can you compare with the other side? You do remember me stressing to do one carb at a time right? I think I got it nailed by looking at where the spring goes. too lazy to go out to the garage and strip down my carbs for you, I wanna get the gearbox back together before I do the carbs. Did you get the exploded pdf from Bing?

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Old 02-13-2007, 10:05 PM   #49
wintonio
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it doesn't matter, forget it

because it's FUCKED. The idle mixture screw was stuck, and I mean STUCK, and deep creep Sea Foam didn't work, and a chunk of the screw head broke off when I was attempting to slowly and carefully unscrew it. The venturi screw was also really difficult to remove, it was just gunked in there, but I got it out because it has a hex head.
Anyway, to continue. My *new* buddy that is the parts manager at Gulf Coast BMW, who is also really into airheads, was quite concerned, so I took it in to him. The shop guy couldn't get it out, so when I went to welding class tonight I took it to the machine shop class room and used a Bridgeport machine to drill down in there, and got pretty deep, and then I attempted to use a screw extractor, but now that seems to be stuck down in there... we'll see. IF I can get it out, the next issue is if it is cross threaded. F'ing nightmare . The only good news is that Greg, the parts guy, said he had a box of dirty used carbs somewhere in his garage, so if I give him a bit of time to find it, I will probably get a pretty sweet deal on it, I hope. Fortunately for me, he seems sympathetic to my cause, and my plight . Yes, I will stick the Bernzomatic on it, let it heat up, and give it some good hard slow cranks with the carb on a vice.

On a side note, has anyone used a pellet gun with an attached laser scope? There are a bunch of fucking rats running around in my attic right now, and I want to get a pellet gun, equip w/ laser sight, and go hunting
well, that's my little world. Maybe I will find out when I go to put in my race tech gold valve that half the pieces in the forks are missing, and the other half are loctited together May as well try and laugh about it.
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Old 02-13-2007, 11:19 PM   #50
R-dubb
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Float pins are easy to get out. On the small end of the pin, barely smaller, use a pointed object like an ice pick. center on the pin and tap lightly. the other end will punch through with very little force. It's just small, not hard to do.

To set the float, turn carb upside down, (pin in), then watch as the float tab engages the valve core. Hold the float in the position where it contacts, but does not depress the spring core on the valve. The position of the float seam should be paralell to the edge of the carb at this point. bend tab in or out till it's right.
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Old 02-13-2007, 11:36 PM   #51
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a plus on Dubb's pointer-- i found since day one with airheads (March 1991) a jeweler's screwdriver was the hot ticket for driving out the float pin. Get one the same dia as the pin and there's no risk of gouging the hole the pin runs in. Yes, one end of that pin is splined, to a tiny degree, so SnowBum would have you sweat bullets over whether you were driving out the wrong end-- in my experience (ie used bikes) you have no way of telling which end you're driving til it's out. Drive it out gently, replace same.
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Old 02-14-2007, 04:09 AM   #52
Beemerboff
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The origonal CV carbs ,the Sknners Unions , had a neeedle which always protruded from the end of the needle jet, and therefore the needle set the "main jet" size too . Which explains why there are about 700 needles for SU s.

I dont think this is the case with the Bings on the airheads , the main jet is on the end of the needle jet and sets the maximum flow.

The best way I have found to set the fuel level is , with the carbs on the bike,to turn the fuel on and off, then carefully remove the float chamber and measure the depth of the fuel in the centre well - mine works good with it 25 mm deep.
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Old 02-14-2007, 07:00 AM   #53
datchew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wintonio
because it's FUCKED. The idle mixture screw was stuck, and I mean STUCK, and deep creep Sea Foam didn't work, and a chunk of the screw head broke off when I was attempting to slowly and carefully unscrew it. . .

You're thinking about honda's right now aren't you.

Chin up man... chin up. It's only metal and plastic and rubber. You can do it!!!

This is turning out to be a great carb thread. Some good pics, some good info, links to the carb chronicles, and some exploding heads.

Thread subscribed.



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Old 02-14-2007, 08:16 AM   #54
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waiting...

no carb kits yesterday, maybe today.

looking at the float pins one end apears to be tappered, the other flat.
should I assume that the pointed end is the going out side or the going in side?

winton, get another carb body, sounds like yours is toast...I saw a nice set of rebuilt 40mm carbs for sale...wonder if they'd work on my bike, or just eggzacerbate problems...
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Old 02-14-2007, 01:35 PM   #55
wintonio
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yah, looks like I have to. Hopefully, the parts guy will come through on the cheap end, and I pray that the other is not also screwed up...
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Old 02-14-2007, 02:14 PM   #56
SOLO LOBO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkchris
This is "general knowledge" NOT APPLICABLE to engines with constant velocity carbs with have AUTOMATICALLY ADJUSTABLE jetting via a tapered needle.

The part about using OE filter is right on, of course.

Apologies to RD for the hijack


lkchris is incorrect because the butterfly opening controls the height that the slides reach, and therefor the faul/air mixture. The carb does not make any adjustments to the mixture by raisinig/lowering slides becuase the bike is not running correctly. This can be demonstrated by closing the idle mixture screw. If lkchris was correct, the bike would not die when the idle screw was put all the way in, the bike would raise the slide to change the mixture and keep the bike running. Additionally, if you listen to BING, they suggest changing the main and poilt jets to make the bike run better (Oak disagrees)..... If Bing believes you can rejet Bing CV carbs, I would tend to agree with them.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:00 PM   #57
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My 89 GS was factory jetted so lean it was ridiculous. Bing fixed that for a measly $76 American. It's crazy fun now. Runs like my RT. Now if I can just find an easy way to get those slick little hpn choke actuation straps.
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:49 AM   #58
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RandyB,

So your bike was stock?

Wit the mods on my bike, would the Bingers know what to do?

Guys haven't sent my kits yet...
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Old 02-15-2007, 11:41 AM   #59
RandyB
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Carbs and engine were stock.
Moto electrik rotor and diode board.
Heated grips (Where have these been all my life?).
Euro headlight switch.
Rebuildable, greaseable driveshaft.
Happy Trails panniers.
Corbin dual seat.
Heavy duty handguards.
Engine guards.
'Bout a grand in spare parts. Cool, esp. since a lot of them will fit my RT , currently in pieces.
Some other stuff.

The PO had set it up to ride to Tierra del Fuego, then was diagnosed with cancer. I called him last week. No word so I hope he's OK.

Apparently, they jetted the 32mm carbs lean to pass everyone's emissions requirements. This caused my bike to stumble in 4th gear at about 65 and when decelerating. It would buck and snort when it was cold like no one's business, even after I tore the carbs down and rebuilt them (Thorough cleaning, new orings and gaskets. BTW, the .99 package of orings from any auto parts store work just as well. Get two.). The Bing tech listened to all that then sold me one size larger idle jet, two size larger main and pick up. I recommend Real Gaskets nitrile bowl gaskets "while you're in there" (I swear I'm gonna trademark that.) as well as his silicone valve cover gaskets. NO more picking pieces of the stock gasket off at valve adjustments. It runs like a scalded dog now, pulls in every gear and is good for about 10mph more in every gear. The headers no longer glow in the dark either.

I kept the old parts. The PO had a kit labeled "6500+ feet", apparently for his trip. By the Bing manual, I now have parts for sea level to 4000, 4000 or so to 6500 and 6500 to "What was I thinking?" Not compensating for temperature, of course. Get the Bing manual.
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Old 02-15-2007, 01:25 PM   #60
BajaJim
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Randy,

I've got a '92 GS that seems lean. You said you installed "two size larger main and pick up"

What's a pick up?

Thanks.
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