R100GS missing on start

[SOLO LOBO]

Originally Posted by Rapid Dog

my guess is yes they are the same...input here.
yes those are the alky-proof floats on the left.

some rough running/starting was probably the carbs
the flat and choking at 4K RPM was the SuperTrapp...

Can I say I told you do (just kidding)

[Rapid Dog]

...why yes, yes you can...

[nick_rhinocycles]

I found this article about hard starting, which relates to choke springs and thought I would add it here:

http://www.airheads.org/content/view/233/98/

It goes a little like this:

I have an R75/7 that, when absolutely cold, is a real pain to start.

I had an R75/5 that also was a pain to start, La Vaca Guma, the "Mexico Bike." After doing all that you have recounted, most several times, over several years, I noticed that the slide was sticking and not coming all the way down (this totally defeats the choke action). Tried cleaning slide and carb body with a bit of fine sandpaper: didn't make much difference. Then I wondered: "Is this why they started putting the fine, fairly weak return spring in the R80/7s and R100/7s in 1978? The one that gently forces the diaphragm/slide assembly down? Will it fit in an earlier carb?" Well, folks, they do and the damn-hard-to-start-in-the-cold feature disappeared. No more push starting a fully loaded /5 down Mexican streets and alleys! Part # 13 11 1 335 324 if you want to give it a try....

[Rapid Dog]

thanks for that.
i ordered new springs today...

[RocketJ]

Originally Posted by nick_rhinocycles

I found this article about hard starting, which relates to choke springs and thought I would add it here:

http://www.airheads.org/content/view/233/98/



It goes a little like this:

I have an R75/7 that, when absolutely cold, is a real pain to start.

I had an R75/5 that also was a pain to start, La Vaca Guma, the "Mexico Bike." After doing all that you have recounted, most several times, over several years, I noticed that the slide was sticking and not coming all the way down (this totally defeats the choke action). Tried cleaning slide and carb body with a bit of fine sandpaper: didn't make much difference. Then I wondered: "Is this why they started putting the fine, fairly weak return spring in the R80/7s and R100/7s in 1978? The one that gently forces the diaphragm/slide assembly down? Will it fit in an earlier carb?" Well, folks, they do and the damn-hard-to-start-in-the-cold feature disappeared. No more push starting a fully loaded /5 down Mexican streets and alleys! Part # 13 11 1 335 324 if you want to give it a try....

Clean forgot about this. If the idle is set to high, the choke (enricher) will not work.

[datchew]

So i took a peek inside the carbs tonight to decide if they needed major repairs.

All i did was drain the float bowls when i pulled them off the bike a couple weeks ago. I'm glad they're so clean. Bout time I had an easy one.
Looks like being a daily driver had some advantages.

My main jet is #145 FYI, it's written right on the face of the brass hex head in the center of the carb in the top picture.

My springs don't look so good, but a little grease and they'll do.

[SOLO LOBO]

Unscrew the main jet, pull it out and also the needle jet. crud collects around the innards.... found about a teaspoon of crap in mine, and they looked about as clean as yours!

[datchew]

Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO

Unscrew the main jet, pull it out and also the needle jet. crud collects around the innards.... found about a teaspoon of crap in mine, and they looked about as clean as yours!

Will do. I'm gonna do the #1 kit anyway while they're not busy.
THanks much.

[RandyB]

Clean the idle jet and mixture screws as well. New orings with a dab of silicone grease. Check the needles for grooves. Chemtool B12 rules.

[Rapid Dog]

...man, they look factory fresh! yeah, just some clearance of the passages should do. I don't think you even need the kits my man!

[datchew]

Originally Posted by Rapid Dog

...man, they look factory fresh! yeah, just some clearance of the passages should do. I don't think you even need the kits my man!

Too late bruthah... the cash is headed down the wire.

Even if I don't need to replace the #1 kit, i'll keep it as a spare. I'll need it sooner or later.

What really sucks is how much they want for their diaphrams. $26.51 each!!!! He didn't even choke when he said it over the phone. Pass on those for now. I'll come back when I need them. By then they'll cost at least $50 probably.

[Rapid Dog]

...I'll get it out ASAP...that said, I got my diaphrams form Chicago BMW...they discount all BMW parts, about $16-$18 a piece...order early, they may take some time to get to ya...

[datchew]

damn... why are we shopping at bing then?

[Rapid Dog]

...well. let's call it advice from ADVRider....Chicago and MAXBMW don't always have stuff in stock, the BING guys do.
That said, if your in a hurry you know they have the parts in stock. Just be clear about how you want it shipped! I called, ordered, ask Bing to ship PrioriTY MAIL!...instead they sent it snail mail then I re-ordered plus the jet kit (another $53 for next day)...to top that off I told them my jet sizes and they sold me the same jets...DOH!
At any rate Chicago sells ALL BMW parts at I think 15% off retail always.
Keep that in mind next time you need a piece of rubber...

[SOLO LOBO]

I got my kits from some aftermarket supplier that used to advertise in Airmail... think I paid $32 for two kits, all rubber including the diaphrams (no jets or metal bits. I have their flyer at home and will post later.

Add your old diaphrams into the "breakdown" kit you carry on your bike.... good spare to carry!