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Old 01-23-2008, 07:11 AM   #31
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Quote:
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Well folks, It works!
awesome.

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Old 01-23-2008, 08:44 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by DriveShaft
Wow, you've been at it for a while now. Is the motor and everything holding up well now?

That's an awesome arrangement with the studded tire!
The motor is bombproof. The battery pack went south and got to a point where it wouldn't hold a charge. I got new 12 amp hour batteries and we are in buisness. I bought SLA batteries because I could not find NiMH or NiCad or any other kind of lighter batteries that would fit.

Time to ride to work. Its a whopping 28 degrees. I don't need the glove liners today.
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Old 01-24-2008, 07:21 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLK
The motor is bombproof. The battery pack went south and got to a point where it wouldn't hold a charge. I got new 12 amp hour batteries and we are in buisness. I bought SLA batteries because I could not find NiMH or NiCad or any other.
I would imagine it'd be a good application for a set of AGM batteries. I hear they're particularly well suited to deep draw applications.

I found these guys who have some 36v Li-on batteries that may be an option. 20amp hour, 36v Li-ON

http://www.texaselectricbikes.com/ca...our-p-165.html
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Old 01-24-2008, 09:05 PM   #34
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For $750, I could buy most of a KLR, or a couple of barn fresh sweeties, which would be way more cool than batteries for a stupid bicycle. I paid about $90 for 3 AGM Lead acid 12v 12ah.

The whole kit and the bike I put it on was $500, delivered. I'm glad i'm not a lithium battery salesman. They are missing the price point. I'll pay $44 for a studded tire but I won't pay $750 for three batteries. The laws of supply and demand cannot be broken.
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Old 01-25-2008, 03:12 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by RLK
For $750, I could buy most of a KLR, or a couple of barn fresh sweeties, which would be way more cool than batteries for a stupid bicycle. I paid about $90 for 3 AGM Lead acid 12v 12ah.

The whole kit and the bike I put it on was $500, delivered. I'm glad i'm not a lithium battery salesman. They are missing the price point. I'll pay $44 for a studded tire but I won't pay $750 for three batteries. The laws of supply and demand cannot be broken.
Ya, $750 is ridiculous, even if it is for the entire 36v.

Doing some reading, Ni-Cad seems like the best option for deep draw. Ni-Cad apparently thrives on full discharge and can last over 1000 cycles under heavy load/deep draw (and has a memory effect if it isn't fully discharged). But I can't find Ni-Cads of sufficient capacity to even come close to 15ah. Literally, you'd have to build your own out of like 10 batteries in parallel.

I'm starting to realize, though, 12ah isn't nearly enough capacity with SLA. That sucker'll crap out in less than a year too. They have a cycle life of over 1000 cycles, if you keep the cycles less than 30% of capacity. But it drops to around 100~200 if you pull it down to full discharge regularly. That's alot of lead to throw away every year. At full draw, with a 600w motor, it's best to run it for 20 minutes between recharges, max, to get decent battery life. Or carry 80lbs of friggin batteries. No easy answers, dammit.
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Old 01-25-2008, 03:42 PM   #36
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Varooom!!!

Man - if you could set up your steed with something like THIS, you would be flossin' big time!
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Old 01-25-2008, 04:09 PM   #37
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Oh, man. I've been looking for a picture of those...it was for a thread in JM and I couldn't remember what they were called.
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Old 01-25-2008, 05:21 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveShaft
Ya, $750 is ridiculous, even if it is for the entire 36v.

Doing some reading, Ni-Cad seems like the best option for deep draw. Ni-Cad apparently thrives on full discharge and can last over 1000 cycles under heavy load/deep draw (and has a memory effect if it isn't fully discharged). But I can't find Ni-Cads of sufficient capacity to even come close to 15ah. Literally, you'd have to build your own out of like 10 batteries in parallel.

I'm starting to realize, though, 12ah isn't nearly enough capacity with SLA. That sucker'll crap out in less than a year too. They have a cycle life of over 1000 cycles, if you keep the cycles less than 30% of capacity. But it drops to around 100~200 if you pull it down to full discharge regularly. That's alot of lead to throw away every year. At full draw, with a 600w motor, it's best to run it for 20 minutes between recharges, max, to get decent battery life. Or carry 80lbs of friggin batteries. No easy answers, dammit.
wally world has agm at 12 and 14 ah for 50 -70 bucks. they also take back the old batt it is worth 5 and is recycled with very little lost Pb. I would stick with the lead myself. I would guess 200 cycle for lead and 300 Ni mh.
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:44 PM   #39
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I would guess 200 cycle for lead and 300 Ni mh.
That lifespan would get me where I need to be for a month or two. I hope you could get more than 300 charge cycles from a NiMH pack. I got about 400 from my first pack of three Lead 12volt 8ah before they went south. Two cycles per day for 6 months. 4 cycles on Tuesdays and Sundays.

The Lead worked so I bought more. The old ones went to the recycle place.

This is a good conversation. I sincerely appreciate all of the input. Thanks.
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Old 01-26-2008, 03:57 AM   #40
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if you got 400 from the last agm then I would stick with it. from what I see it you get about the ratio I said so then it would be 400/600. The wally world batt are from Johnson control or Yusa. I have got better life from them then the batt that said Yusa on the outside of the box.
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Old 01-26-2008, 03:09 PM   #41
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Do you have a Batteries Plus store near you? Store locator.

They've been pretty helpful when I've gone there.

Though I will admit I thought the concept was a joke when I first heard of it - like the tape store skit on the original Saturday Night live that didn't sell cassettes, only scotch tape.
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Old 01-26-2008, 10:45 PM   #42
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Hi Brock.

Yes there are two Batteries+ stores within the range of my home. When I step inside the door and tell them that i'd like to buy batteries for a motorized bicycle, they look at me like i'm from another Galaxy and they try to sell me $400 worth of AGM Lead batteries that won't fit in my battery bag.

Anywho, I don't plan on buying any new batteries for this thing until July or August. I bought more Lead and that'll make it fly for a while. I put on a used back tire a few weeks before I got the studded front. I've got half a dozen tires to burn up on the rear and about 8 tubes.

I've got a semi-slick tire for the front that i'll put on after the ice melts. I'm good with what I have.

... except for pants.
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:40 PM   #43
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Bike bug!

A friend of mine gave me an old bicyle engine a couple years ago called a "bike bug" made by Tanaka industries. It is a 22cc friction engine that mounts above the front wheel of your bicycle. I worked on it (it had been sitting in a box for years and years) and got it running. It is a lot of fun and I did ride it back and forth to work a few times (36 miles round trip) but I found I preffered to just pedal most of the time so I didn't use it very often. I do like the old engines though and have since collected 6 of these little jewels. You might consider trying to find one of them on Ebay as they are still available from time to time. I've paid up to $125 for the ones I've bought so they don't cost a fortune. Some parts are still available from a guy in Houston who works on them as a hobby. I have had a blast playing with them myself.
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Old 01-29-2008, 09:22 PM   #44
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Hi dppeter. Welcome to the conversation.

Friction drives are cheap for a reason. Think slushy/snowy/icy/wet/hilly streets of Colorado in February. Not going to get it done, it would just burn tires on the wrong end and fill a motor with MagChloride. No fun. No way to reliably commute.

It would be an interesting experiment to see who wins in a studded tire vs. friction drive cage match. I'm done with experiments for now. I've got places to go. I'm sticking with what has worked.

Feel free to post up in this thread about what you are running! Thanks.

Anyone else with a stupid motorized bicycle of any kind, show me whatchagot!
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:25 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLK
Hi dppeter. Welcome to the conversation.

Friction drives are cheap for a reason. Think slushy/snowy/icy/wet/hilly streets of Colorado in February. Not going to get it done, it would just burn tires on the wrong end and fill a motor with MagChloride. No fun. No way to reliably commute.

It would be an interesting experiment to see who wins in a studded tire vs. friction drive cage match. I'm done with experiments for now. I've got places to go. I'm sticking with what has worked.

Feel free to post up in this thread about what you are running! Thanks.

Anyone else with a stupid motorized bicycle of any kind, show me whatchagot!


450 watts
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