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Old 09-03-2010, 03:19 AM   #1501
DaBit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by road ranger
1/16 rod is kinda small to do anything with. Larger rod will work better
Also on that quite thin metal? I guess the required welding current will only be 20-30 Amps or so.

Normally I try to stock the thinner rods, indeed in the 1/16 range. Much more versatile for me. Works fine on thin stuff; doesn't draw all the heat out of the weld puddle. Works fine on thicker material also. The only problem is that I'm uncomfortable yet with feeding rod at a high pace while keeping the tip in the argon shield and at the same time keep the arc length short without dipping the tungsten into the pool. Beginner-TIG-issues, I suppose.

If I really want thicker rod, I can always twist a few together using the cordless drill. Much more versatile, those thinner rods.

Quote:
fire up on the rod and then move the arc to the header.
Hmm, another welder told me to absolutely not weld this way and gave a lot of comments when I 'cheated' filling a gap between two pieces of metal by firing up the arc on the rod which I stuck in the gap to make the puddle easily bridge that gap. He said that one must definitely push the filler in the molten pool to ensure a good quality weld. I'm curious about your opinion on this.

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Originally Posted by road ranger
I thought a 'flat rate' box went almost anywhere in the world for about 15 or20.00 bux. Anyway, The post office wanted 43.00 & UPS wanted a lil over 200.00.
It used to be that way. A couple of years ago I had a huge box shipped with the USPS from Texas to The Netherlands full of HVAC stuff. Shipping was only $23; almost cheaper than shipping such a package locally. But those times are gone :(

Tomorrow I'll check the local welding shop. I won't call them; if I do they probably tell me 'Yes, we have full boxes, and no, we don't sell them separately'. If I drop by and kindly ask the guy behind the counter he will probably sell me a couple of them.

Thanks a lot for checking out the postage fees anyway!

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See if the header will draw magnet. if it won't it's probably stainless
I lost my magnet somewhere; have to dismantle another old harddrive for another one of those ultra-strong magnets :)
But I'm pretty sure it's stainless. See how the metal looks when that 20K mile accumulation of crust is removed with a stainless brush on a power drill:



See the attachment point of the exhaust springs in the top left corner? The rotten spots are right beneath those attachment points (all of them). The ends of the pipes have some pitting. And the rest of the pipes is completely free of pitting and corrosion.
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Old 09-03-2010, 05:11 AM   #1502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MommysLittleMonster
5 mins damn its a header not full sticks of tube. when i was doing sanitary stainless we would have 30+ of tube that you would have to purge and that would take a few mins to clear out. just tape up the back side poke a couple pin holes turn the gas on and gear up then check the flow with your cheek and or a lighter and make sure there was no air in it but then again that was nothing that was to crazy of a dia. 4 inch max
I do alot of A3 stuff, this week it is 100, 2" x 8" 316L dual flange micro filters and give them about 20 seconds with a thru chuck turntable, however when I give advice on the interwebs I tend to errr on the side of caution...as you never know how people will take the advice..

(I missed the original post)(When he said headers, I was thinking car/4 tubes 30/36" long plus collector.)

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Old 09-03-2010, 05:18 AM   #1503
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DaBit: It isn't necessary to 'push' the fill wire into the puddle. As long as the parent metal is forming a puddle and the fill wire is in that puddle and flowing you are getting a quality weld. dipping the fill wire will produce a weld that look like a row of nickles partitally stacked on one another, which is fine and some actually prefer that appearence. The method I prefer leaves a nice smooth bead and there is little chance of the fill wire leaving the gas shield and oxidizing the tip.
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:54 AM   #1504
MommysLittleMonster
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dabit thats not stainless its coated steel plus get a magnet you will find out that it will stick to your header
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:58 AM   #1505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBit
See the attachment point of the exhaust springs in the top left corner? The rotten spots are right beneath those attachment points (all of them). The ends of the pipes have some pitting. And the rest of the pipes is completely free of pitting and corrosion.
this is your first clue that its not stainless your best bet at this point is to just strip the coating off and try to get all the carbon out of the inside of the pipe and just weld it
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:16 AM   #1506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MommysLittleMonster
dabit thats not stainless its coated steel plus get a magnet you will find out that it will stick to your header
I'm not so sure.


SS pipes on my BMW.

After whire wheel mine looked pretty much the same:



Jim
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:37 AM   #1507
DaBit
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Originally Posted by road ranger
DaBit: It isn't necessary to 'push' the fill wire into the puddle.
OK! Well, that simplifies some tasks a lot! Sometimes I find it hard to get the weld started nicely when the parts do not line up perfectly. My tube notching skills are not perfect, for example :). The edges then tend to melt away. 'Cheating' by putting the filler in the gap, igniting the arc, and using the filler to form a weld pool consisting of both part edges and a bit of filler is infinitely easier than having both parts melt at the same rate and trying to add just enough filler to both edges so they will join.

But I suppose it's good exercise in controlling the puddle though :)

Quote:
dipping the fill wire will produce a weld that look like a row of nickles partitally stacked on one another, which is fine and some actually prefer that appearence.
I don't care. Strong and dependable welds are my top priority. They carry my luggage over rough terrain, they carry my father in law's caravan, they prevent my bike from falling off it's sidestand, etc. Their appearance is a lot lower on the priority scale.

That said: I think that it's pretty hard to make a dependable TIG-weld which doesn't look OK.

Quote:
The method I prefer leaves a nice smooth bead and there is little chance of the fill wire leaving the gas shield and oxidizing the tip.
So basically you just hold the filler parallel to the joint in front of the puddle, and melt it in at the same time you are melting the base material?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MommysLittleMonster
dabit thats not stainless its coated steel plus get a magnet you will find out that it will stick to your header
I'll drop by the local 'Home depot' equivalent and get one as soon as I'm finished working. You just made me very curious.
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:40 AM   #1508
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take some kind of abrasive and see if the "silver" comes off you should see a layer that is different then the rest
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:46 AM   #1509
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i just check mine and its not stainless unless you have a aftermarket i am thinking that its just steel, you will need to remove any coating on the pipe before welding and get different filler rod
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:58 AM   #1510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MommysLittleMonster
i just check mine and its not stainless unless you have a aftermarket i am thinking that its just steel, you will need to remove any coating on the pipe before welding and get different filler rod
The only steel fill wire that will work with TIG is E70-S2. Stainless fill wire will weld mild steel, but stainless cannot be welded with mild steel fill wire.
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:01 AM   #1511
DaBit
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A magnet sticks to the header. When grinding off a little there is no clear coating layer.

I also have a few 309 rods. Use those, or better ER70s2?
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Old 09-04-2010, 11:15 AM   #1512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBit
A magnet sticks to the header. When grinding off a little there is no clear coating layer.

I also have a few 309 rods. Use those, or better ER70s2?
Use your TIG arc to heat a small area of the header--get it bright red for a few seconds at least. After it cools, see if that area is still magnetic. If not, you got stainless.
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Old 09-04-2010, 04:54 PM   #1513
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Just use the 309. The SS rod will work on most common steels, the steel rod will only work on steel and not on the SS at all.
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Old 09-04-2010, 05:37 PM   #1514
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Originally Posted by Strong Bad
Just use the 309. The SS rod will work on most common steels, the steel rod will only work on steel and not on the SS at all.
Yes, that will work, but the O.P. stated he wasn't a good welder, and E70 is a lot easier to weld with than SS--that's why I didn't suggest it.
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Old 09-04-2010, 05:53 PM   #1515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benesesso
Yes, that will work, but the O.P. stated he wasn't a good welder, and E70 is a lot easier to weld with than SS--that's why I didn't suggest it.
Just repairing holes in an exhaust pipe really don't require much welding ability, and is good practice for welding thin material. There is a lot to be learned about fill wire placement, feeding fill wire to fill the hole, and filling holes in general, so that you don't have any buildup inside the header, close to the end you can always use a die grinder to knock any unwanted buildup down. The reason I suggested a fairly large dia fill wire when dealing with really thin parent material is because you can concentrate the heat on the fill wire and it will not melt away before the parent material is ready to accept fill. Sometimes it may be necessary to stop for a few moments to let the weld puddle cool so that it dosen't get 'droopy'.
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